• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.5 s.95
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• pp.101-107
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• 2005

In this article, mordant absorption rate by the Change of temperature and fabric, discharge level by water washing, mordant density and method in mordant dye are going to be handled. Besides, how treatment method will have an effect on absorption rate and color, is also going to be covered. An atom extinction photometer was used to measure the amount of mordant absorbed in fabric at each temperature and mordant type. It turned out that absorption rate differs according to the type of mordant and sample or temperature. Also it turned out that the mordant input amount has little influence on absorption rate, that is to say, if though you use more mordants, just tiny amount of mordant is going to be absorbed in cloth. It is true that the higher temperature goes up, the better mordant absorption gets. It is found that the type of mordant and sample, treatment period affects the discharge rate. Normally $15{\~}98\%$ mordant comes off the fabric by water washing, to be specific, $17{\~}47\%$ Iron by water washing and it has better performance on cotton and nylon than silk, $1\%{\~}52\%$ Aluminum by water washing and better absorption on silk, $36{\~}89\%$ Chrome by water washing and better absorption on silk, $50{\~}89\%$ copper by water washing and better absorption on silk, poor on cotton. The examination of the K/S values and colors between before and after soaping has been conducted under the circumstance that the test fabrics had been treated at $80^{\circ}C$ for 30 minutes with $0.2\%$ soaping solution. In case of pre-mordanted fabrics, the K/S value nosedived after soaping, meanwhile densely mordanted fabric's K/S value soared but after soaping, it dropped sharply. It turned out that soaping treatment deteriorates absorption much more than water washing. It's considered that $0.1 \%$ (W/V) of mordant density is appropriate.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.85-102
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the origins of knitwear the history of patterned knits. Aithough historians know little about the origins of knitting many believe it was practiced as early as the 4th century by nomads roaming North Africa. later Arab raders adopted the craft which helped then while away the hours as they traveled across deserts in camel carabans, Its origins lie in the need for close-fitting and elasticated covering for the body in particular the head hand and feet. it first developed in the Mediterranean countries and later in Central and particularly Northern Europe. Early evidence of multicolored knitting is said to date back to the Egyptian Copts of 600-800 A.D. medieval knitting is developed through the Church and monastery. The increasing demand for knitted products already observable in the fourteenth and fifteenth centries and the number of preserved knitted articles increases inexcavated materialos from Europe. The improvements in technique stimulated the developement of the hand knitting industry in the early sixteenth century. The best-known source of production is the guild organization and their mass production consisted of the carpets cushion coverings and other small items for furnishing interiors but mainly of clothing. The demand for knitted goods was such that in the late sixteenth century it was mechanised, The knitting frame invented in 1589 by William Lee English priest was the most perfect machine of this period. The mass production of fully-fashioned and seamless garments in the late nineteenth and twentieth century was dangerously competitve to traditionally woven and sewn cloth in. As fashions changed knitwear has had an almost continuous ruse in public favour and the popularity of sports has encourage the fashion for flexible easy-fitting and absorbent garments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.3
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• pp.26-43
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• 2010

The inflow of digital technology into the art, especially in the Fashion Illustration since 1990, makes the new aesthetics of the beginning of the 21 century which the Software aesthetics can be called. The meeting of technology and the art make us recall a great scientist and artist, Leonardo da Vinci in the Renaissance that the notion of the art and skill was unified, same as the ancient history. This study is purposed to expand the concept of the art for the broad exchange of the digital technology and art and for the extensive expression method of the modern fashion illustration. Having views on science theory of the beginning of the 20 century, Theory of Relativity which had given a lot of influence in the philosophy, the litterature and the art, as well as all the science, it makes a connection with the history of art in the beginning of the 20 century and the story of the digital art in the beginning of the 21 century. Firstly, the Fauvism and 2D is based on the expression of the glowing and bright color by the Principle of constancy of light velocity. Secondly, the Cubism and 3D is associated with the Special theory of relativity in the cyberspace which the space and the time are totally accorded. Thirdly, the Futurism and 4D is compared with the General theory of relativity which contains the material and the gravity. They are gradually evolved into the Interactive art and the Kinetic art by the digital technology in the profound cyberspace.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.90-103
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• 2008

This study aims to examine the current state of wearing working clothes for the workers who work in Electric Technology Division, Korea Railroad Corporation, to identify inconveniences and problems in relation to the working clothes, and based on the examination, to find a way to improve them, creating a design of summer working clothes that will have more advanced functionalities including activity adaptability and comfort. Survey was conducted through direct observation and interview for Electric Railway Power Team. A total of 352 copies were collected and analyzed. Based on the results of questionnaire, an experimental clothes, the functionality of which has improved in terms of design, material, and patterns, was created. The followings are the results of the study. Easy activity, design, and comfort are required as functions of working clothes. In design related questions, the survey shows high dissatisfaction in the color of existing working clothes, and preferred colors are dark blue and gray. With regard to the method of zipping up the front side, zippers are preferred. Although many pockets on the existing working clothes have high satisfaction, dissatisfaction to pocket format is high. In material related questions, lower dissatisfaction is indicated for the sense of touch, ventilation and sweat absorption. It is shown that the areas frequently polluted include the lower part of pocket, the edges of sleeves and elbow areas on the jacket. The frequently polluted area of the trousers include knee areas, the edges of pants and buttocks. With regard to the areas where the workers felt discomfort when motion, discomfort is highly indicated with armpits and back on the jacket. Also discomfort is highly indicated with crotch, buttocks and knee areas on the trousers. In material related questions, lower dissatisfaction is indicated for the sense of touch, ventilation, sweat absorption.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.176-190
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• 2007

As the globalization has increasingly brought in the disintrgration of boundary between cultures, the hybrid of styles, or fusion styles in various cultural spheres have been introduced as important theme. With this new trend, the traditional culture of Asia appeared as the source of inspiration for the West, and as the source of enhanced pride and asset for ethnic groups which have been considered "the Other" by the West. 1990's witnessed a drastically increased interest in Orientalism and Ethnic trends in most social aspects, especially in culture and art. They have been the main theme in fashion, providing the source of inspiration with elements such as the unique color schemes, composition methods and geometrical simplicity. The creative application of traditional culture into modern design as well as fashion can make a significant contribution and be a solid foundation for the development of national culture in general, since images containing cultural authenticity are the visual representation of the nation and they can be important tools for the globalization of design. This study aims to find out the formative characteristics of Korean traditional embroidery and the ways they are applied in modern fashion by world-renowned Korean fashion designers. The purpose of this study is to make a fundamental source for further study by the same author on creative design development utilizing the result. The study methods are literature study combined with research of genuine articles from museums and personal ownership as well as photos from magazines and internet. The significance of this study lies in enhancing the appreciation of Korean traditional culture and expanding the possibility of its globalization by modern application.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.63-77
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to apply fashion design to developing dress design of mobile-phone game characters. As for the research methodology, first, market research has been carried out to extract main images from dress designs of game characters and to understand their socio-cultural meanings. Second, the fashion design, which ran be compared to the extracted images of game characters were selected. Third, analyses were done to find out the gap between the game character's dress designs and the fashion designs. The main images of game characters are revealed as erotic, romantic, heroic, grotesque. These images have been formed by psychological and socio-cultural effects such as stimulation, empathy, compensation, increase of female game player. The differences between the game character's dresses and the fashion designs are as follows; With regard to style, game dresses have silhouette distinguished from background, but fashion collection have blurred silhouette. In the aspect of color, while strong colors are mainly used in game dress, neutral rotors are preferred in fashion collection. As for texture, the expression of 'textures in game character's dress is so far limited due to the insufficient level of the concerned technology. However, the fashion design applying drape of fabrics are well-developed. Mobile-phone game players want reality in game design. Therefore, the effort to overcome the gaps between game dress and fashion design can contribute to the growth of game character design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.78-89
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• 2007

The objectives of this research were to investigate the relationships between purchase motives and post-purchase satisfaction of cosmetics at internet shopping malls, and to reveal how cosmetic purchase motives and demographic variables influence to the post-purchase satisfaction. Subjects were 202 females in Seoul who had experiences of cosmetic shopping at internet. Five dimensions of cosmetic purchase motives at internet shopping malls were derived by factor analysis: 'information provision', 'service/quality', 'time saver', 'use convenience', and 'economical efficiency'. Consumers showed relatively high cosmetic purchase motives at internet shopping malls because the prices of on-line shopping mall products were cheaper than those of off-line, and because it was easy to compare various products at internet shopping malls. The motive of 'information provision' had significant positive relationships with the satisfaction of price, quality, color, volume, and skin suitability of cosmetics. The motive of 'time saver' and 'use convenience' had positive relationships with the satisfaction of price and quality. The motives of 'service/quality' and 'use convenience' were higher in career women than in college women. The middle class consumers and the consumers who use internet more had a high 'information provision' motive in shopping cosmetics at internet. The post-purchase satisfaction of cosmetics was influenced most by the experience postscripts and next by economical efficiency, frequency of access to the internet cosmetic malls, and social class(-) in order.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.7
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• pp.13-30
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• 2008

Visual language is 'a form of communication without text'. Visual language is one of the strongest methods to spread knowledge. Uniforms could be interpreted as a symbolic language that establishes order in this complicated modern society by placing identity and responsibility on each members of various different organizations. In light of the above, the purpose of this research paper will be to analyze police uniforms of U.S.A, Great Britain, Italy, France and Korea as a form of visual language and interpreting them in terms of visual design in order to understand the fundamental ideas behind the designs and the effective applications thereof. Upon analysis of traffic police uniforms of each individual county mentioned above by separating each uniform's distinctive design, pattern, color, material and decoration based on visual factor, three characteristics of authority, dynamic functionality and friendliness were derived from comparing and analyzing each country's distinctive uniform design. The traditional unique role of police in our society was to maintain social order as their nature inherently possesses characteristic of authority and preservation, but has since undergone transition in many countries to appeal to the broader public by incorporating friendliness and dynamic functionality. Analyzing police uniforms in terms of visual linguistic sense requires a much more profound process of understanding beyond simple interpretation of configurative shapes. In conclusion, the true purpose of uniforms is to include and portray images of mankind's desire toward expressing ideas like 'mankind's bias toward existence beyond theirselves and the exercise of force through authority' and materializing such ideas into a physical form.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1318-1330
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• 2010

The 21st century is the age when a sensational image has more explanatory power and can deliver a more powerful message than a message consisting of logical thinking. Powerful visual images create a big impact on many people throughout the world, overcoming linguistic barriers and even replacing language as a means of communication. In the fashion field, the concept and power of visual images within the new multimedia of the 21st century are becoming increasingly important. In recent years, other than the above methods, videos, movies and animation features have been produced directly to enhance visual effects and attempts are increasing to use these new tools as communication methods. This study focuses on animation contents that have been used in the fashion industry to overcome prejudice of luxury international brands that feature images that emphasize value, quality and heritage. The purpose of this study is to focus on the specific character of fashion animation in order to overview the concept of 21st video fashion communication and to show how the collection concept that includes color and detail places an emphasis on visual images. Analysis of previous research, theoretical research through literature and case study on Prada fashion animation led to the following conclusion. The common features of two different Prada fashion animation show that both animation have the following features in common : realism, dramatic impact and convergence for expression methods, and creativeness, hybrid and a happy ending for contents. Beginning with this study, I believe that various angles of interest and concern about communication in the fashion world, which is a social and cultural phenomenon that changes rapidly, can be will be looked at and learned from.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1127-1137
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• 2010

As directly imported apparel brands are actively entering the domestic market, studies of the marketing aspects of these imported apparel products and their overall consumption trend have been done. However, studies of whether are not the directly imported apparel products provide Korean consumers with an appropriate fit are not as common. Therefore, this study investigates the satisfaction with and problems associated with the fit along with the recognition of and preference for directly imported US apparel brands. 100 female college students who purchased directly imported US apparel brands participated in a survey. The results of this survey showed that their recognition of, preference for, possession rate of and satisfaction with the directly imported US apparel brands tend to be high. The major purchasing motivations were the excellent 'design' and 'color' of the products. The subjects reported that they were satisfied with the quality of 'materials' and 'sewing condition'. However, they were not satisfied with the 'comfort' or the 'size'. Their level of satisfaction with the fit of these products differed depending on the specific item. Their level of satisfaction with the fit of T-shirts and knits was high, whereas the level for pants was relatively low. They complained mostly about the sleeve length and garment length of upper-body garments and coats. They were not satisfied with how the pants fit. The areas of dissatisfaction regarding the pants were the waist girth, the crotch length and the pants length.