• Journal of Conservation Science
• /
• v.36 no.5
• /
• pp.430-439
• /
• 2020

This study focused on analyzing solid brown cosmetic residues that were excavated from the tomb of the Hwahyeop princess. The cosmetics had been buried in 1752 in Cheonghwa Baekja (small porcelain jars) within a Huigwakham (a stone box sealed with lime). A literature search and chemical analyses of the relics were conducted at the National Palace Museum of Korea. Based on the results of these analyses, raw materials and manufacturing methods for reproduction of the cosmetic were selected and then cream-form cosmetics were prepared. Aging tests using heat, ultraviolet (UV) radiation, and CO₂ were carried out to emulate the deterioration of the excavated cosmetics. Further chemical analyses and functionality tests were performed to evaluate changes from the tests and the effect as a cosmetic. As heat aging progressed, among the reproduced cosmetics, the one which has a high proposition of oil showed a color difference value of 32; the oxidation of oils involved chemical changes in O-H and C=C groups. As the cosmetic cream deteriorated under UV aging, the pH value became acidic. The result of the functional coverage test of the reproduced cosmetic cream was lower than the standard coverage ratio of modern cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.43 no.4
• /
• pp.273-279
• /
• 2017

In this study, low viscous O/W (oil-in-water) nano-emulsion with fatty acid and fatty alcohol was prepared by phase inversion emulsification method using Tween 80 and Span 80 widely used in cosmetic products. The particle size of the nano-emulsion was increased as increasing the concentration of fatty alcohol in oil phase. Adjusting the HLB of mixed surfactants, a stable nano-emulsion with a narrow size distribution was produced. Similar change in viscosity and electrical conductivity in both systems containing fatty acid and fatty alcohol was shown in the vicinity of the phase inversion point. However, high viscosity was shown in a wide range of different aqueous fraction unlike the system consisting only oils and surfactants. The low viscous nano-emulsion with less than 100 nm droplet size was stable for one month or more at room temperature. O/W nano-emulsions with low viscosity containing fatty acid or fatty alcohol produced by low-energy emulsification method can be widely used as formulations of cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.38 no.1
• /
• pp.43-50
• /
• 2012

The safety of cosmetics or cosmetic ingredients on human skin is generally evaluated by visual assessment but some early subtle skin changes may not be noticed by the naked eyes. Thus, the present study was conducted to detect skin reactions induced by mildly irritating cosmetic ingredients by using a laser Doppler perfusion imager (LDPI) method that measures blood flow, a $Vapometer^{(R)}$ that measure strans epidermal water loss (TEWL), and a spectrophotometer that measures the skin color as the erythema values ($a^*$). Visual assessment showed that all tested oils and humectants except propylene glycol belong to the low skin irritation ranges (grades 0+ to 2.9+) while all tested surfactants and propylene glycol belong to the moderate-to strong-skin irritation ranges (grades 3+ to 5+). Among three instrumental methods, TEWL assessment appeared to be more sensitive than spectrophotometric or LDPI method and suitable for the detection of subtle skin response invisible to the naked eye (grades 0+ to 2.9+). Skin reactions of grade 3+ to 5+ could be detected by all three instrumental methods. In conclusion, the current study suggested that the sub-clinical skin reactions due to mild irritants contained in cosmetics can be best assessed by TEWL measurements.

• Biotechnology and Bioprocess Engineering:BBE
• /
• v.8 no.6
• /
• pp.331-337
• /
• 2003

Unicellular green algae of the genus Dunaliella thrive in extreme environmental conditions such as high salinity, low pH, high irradiance and subzero temperatures. Species of Dunaliella are well known in the alga biotechnological industry and are employed widely for the production of valuable biochemicals, such as carotenoids. Some strains of Dunaliella are cultivated commercially in large outdoor ponds and are harvested to produce dry algal meals, such as polyunsaturated fatty acids and oils for the health food industry, and coloring agents for the food and cosmetic industries. During the past decade, the advances in molecular biology and biochemistry of microalgae, along with the advances in biotechnology of microalgal mass cultivation, enabled this microalga to become a staple of commercial exploitation. In particular, the advent of molecular biology and mutagenesis in Dunaliella has permitted enhancements in the carotenoids content of this green alga, making it more attractive for biotechnological applications. Accordingly, the present review summarizes the recent developments and advances in biotechnology of carotenoid production in Dunaliella.

• KSBB Journal
• /
• v.14 no.6
• /
• pp.747-753
• /
• 1999

Microbial surfactants are more effective and environmentally friendly than many synthetic surfactants. Sophorolipid, a glycolipid type microbial surfactant, is produced from C. bombiocola. Cultivation techniques to increase the productivity have been developed using various carbon sources and reactor setup, reaching its concentration upto 100-300 g/L. Due to its high productivity and non-toxicity, sophorolipid became one of the most promising alternative to synthetic surfactants. Fermentative production of sophorolipid depends primarily on the carbon sources, such as glucose and vegetable oils, and nitrogen sources. Chemical modification of the sophorolipid produces various derivative with different physical properties including hydrophile-liphophilie balance(HLB), emulsion formation, surface tension and dispersing ability. Commercial potentials of sophorolipid in the cosmetic, health care and environment clean-up industries have been discussed.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
• /
• 1999.10a
• /
• pp.65-74
• /
• 1999

We have studied the stability of W/O high internal phase emulsions(HIPE) containing water, cetyl dimethicone copolyol and oils varying magnesium sulfate in the range 0 to 0.5wt% and oil polarities, respectively. The rheological consistency was mainly destroyed by the coalescence of the deformed water droplets. The greater the increase of concentrated modulus was, the less coalescence occurred and the more consistent the concentrated emulsions were. The increasing pattern of complex modulus versus volume fraction has been explained with the resistance to coalescence of the deformed interfacial film of water droplets in concentrated W/O emulsion. The stability is dependent on: (i) the choice of the oil is important, the requirements coincide with the requirements for the formation of the rigid liquid crystalline phases :5; and (ii) addition of salts the aqueous phase opposes the instability due to coalescence:. Increasing the salt concentration increases the refractive index of the aqueous phase. It lowers the difference in the refractive index between the oil and aqueous phases. This decreases the attraction between the water domains, thus increasing the stability.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
• /
• v.36 no.4
• /
• pp.1208-1218
• /
• 2019

The study is on the cosmetic solubilizing power of organic plant surfactants. The blended high purity polyglyceryl-10 oleate and polyglyceryl-10 stearate mixtures were synthesized using organically certified raw materials to develop surfactants having excellent solubilizing power. The mixture is called "Solubil ORG-1300". The appearance of this material is a pale yellowish paste, with a specific odor. The specific gravity was 1.12 and it was high purity that acid value was 0.072±0.1. The HLB value of this natural surfactant was averaged = 15.1 and calculated through the Griffin equation. Mechanically it is explained how organic surfactant are available with fragrance and oils. The solubilizing test was determined by eye evaluation method through the dissolving performance test for the two oils and measured the transmittance at 890 nm using a UV spectrophotometer to measure the transparency. The results showed that the concentration of surfactant needed to make Bergamot oil available requires approximately more 2 times. It was also found that the concentration of surfactant needed to make the tocoperyl acetate available was about 8 times higher. Experiments on the solubility resulting from pH changes showed stabilized usable solubilizing power even in acidic areas of pH=3.5, neutral areas of pH=7.2, and alkaline areas of pH=1.5. Experiments on the solubility according to pH variation showed good solubility stabilized in acidic areas of pH=3.5, neutral areas of pH=7.2, and alkaline areas of pH=11.5. As an application of cosmetics, the company successfully developed a prescription for moisturizing activity based on these results, it is expected that a wide range of applications will be available for skin care, baby lotion, sensitivity or atopic skin cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.46 no.2
• /
• pp.89-103
• /
• 2020

A frizz hair is referred to the fly-away hairs that have become bulky or deviated from the regular hair and the cause of that is not clear known. The internal lipids are related to the physical properties of hair such as elasticity and tensile strength and interracial studies have previously conducted to relate the lipid mass and Afrikaan hair, which has a lot of frizzy hair. Although washing hair is the only way to control the hair loss without damage of hair surface, the number of washing and lipid loss are not linearly correlated. In this study, the amount of lipid hair was analyzed by washing the hair with a few different types of shampoos containing various conditioning polymers and oils of different polarities. The results confirmed that the higher the polarity of the oil, the higher the lipid content. This method was applied to Indian frizzy hair to evaluate the degree of frizziness and found that the frizzy volume was more severe for a hair with less lipids. On the other hand, the frizzy hair volume of fly-away hairs was observed more broadly for the hairs with higher lipid contents. In addition, the friction on the surface of the hair did not differ due to the oil treatment. Taken together, it was concluded that hair frizzing was affected by the amount of lipids in the hair rather than by the adhesion between the oils. Thus, this study suggests that controlling the lipid contents in hair may be an important solution in the development of hair anti-frizzy technology.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.26 no.1
• /
• pp.261-274
• /
• 2000

The o/w emulsions were prepared with saccharide surfactants which were sucrose monostearate(S160), sucrose distearate(S110), and POE(20) methyl glucose stearate(SSE20). And for emulsion the oils used were n-hydocarbon, squalane(SQ), liquid paraffin(LP), octylpalmitate(OP), octylstearate(OS), alkyl benzoate(AB), isostearyl benzoate(ISB). The structures of o/w emulsion droplet were investigated by laser light scattering and the fractal dimensions were calculated from light intensity curves. Increasing of concentration, chain length, and nonpolarity of oils, fractal dimensions of emulsion droplets were found greater. In general fiactal dimensions were varied from 1.7 to 2.8 and its structures were fractal But the fractal dimensions of octadecane( $C_{18}$), 50, and LP emulsified with S110 and S160 were varied from 3.0 to 3.2 and its structures were more dense. The overall fractal dimensions of S110 and S160 were varied from 2.1 to 2.6, that of SSE20 were varied from 1.5 to 2.1. So it was found that the structures of SSE20 system were less compact than that of S110 and S 160 system, because the hindrance effect of polyoxyehtylene group of SSE20 was stronger than that of sucrose of S160. The strucures of emulsion droplets changed according to the nature of emulsifiers and to compositions of oil substances which they contained, and the structures were found similar when the hydophilic moiety of emulsifiers was same.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
• /
• v.38 no.6
• /
• pp.1370-1382
• /
• 2021

Previous studies have been conducted on domestic materials as a single extract. Research on complex mixtures for maximizing plant characteristics by individual extraction and potential interference with effects is insufficient. Therefore, this study confirmed the GC-MSD according to the extraction of essential oils for Agastache rugosa O. Kuntze(AR), Pinus densiflora Sieb. et Zuccarini(PD), Curcuma longa, Curcuma domestica(CC), Zingiber officinale Roscoe(ZR), Foeniculum vulgare Miller(FV), and Citrus medica L. var. sarcodactylis Swingle(CS). The cytotoxicity, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties of the blending oil were confirmed to confirm its potential as a cosmetic material. As a result of analyzing GC-MSD aroma components, the main components were estragole of AR, à-Pinene for PD, Zingiberene for CC and ZR, Anethole from FV, and D-Limonene for CS. At a concentration of 100 uL/mL with no confirmed cytotoxicity, NO production was inhibited by 70.62%, DPPH radical scavenging activity was 64.03%, and ABTS radical scavenging activity was 89.55%. Through this, blended essential oil suggests the possibility of useful application as a raw material with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects in the cosmetic and food industries.