• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.565-570
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• 2023

There are people who are sensitive to cosmetic ingredients, such as pregnant women and skin disease patients. There are also people who experience side effects from cosmetics. To avoid this, it is cumbersome to search for harmful ingredients in cosmetics one by one when shopping. In addition, knowing and remembering functional ingredients that suit you is helpful when purchasing new cosmetics. There is a need for a system that allows you to immediately know the cosmetics ingredients in the field through photography. In this paper, we introduce an application for smartphones, <Hwa Ahn>, which allows you to immediately know the cosmetics ingredients by photographing the ingredients displayed in the cosmetics. This system is more effective and convenient than the existing system in that it automatically recognizes and automatically classifies the ingredients of the cosmetic when the camera is illuminated on the cosmetic ingredients or retrieves the photos of the cosmetic ingredients from the album. If the system is widely used, it is expected that it will prevent skin diseases caused by cosmetics in daily life and reduce purchases of cosmetics that are not suitable for you.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.4
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• pp.407-417
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• 2018

In this study, the antioxidant, cytoprotective and antimicrobial activities of 50% ethanol extract of Polygoni multiflori Radix (PMR) and its ethyl acetate fraction were evaluated to confirm the applicability as a functional ingredient. The activities of the major constituent of PMR were verified and 2, 3, 5, 4′-tetrahydroxystilbene 2-O-${\beta}$-D-glucoside (THSG) was confirmed to be the main component of extract and fraction using HPLC-DAD, LC-EIS-MS analysis. The phenolic and THSG contents of the ethyl acetate fraction were 11.1- and 3.0-folds higher than those of the ethanol extract, respectively. As a result of the DPPH assay and that of luminol dependent chemiluminescence assay in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/H2O2 system. the ethylacetate fraction was superior to the ethanol extract in free radical and ROS scavenging activities. Especially, the ethyl acetate fraction and THSG exhibited the similar scavenging activity like L-ascorbic acid in ROS scavenging activity. The ethyl acetate fraction perceived the most potent cytoprotective effect against oxidative damage of erythrocytes induced by photosensitization reaction, followed by the ethanol fraction, THSG and that of (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol, which was used as a positive control. Antimicrobial activities were evaluated by disc diffusion and broth microdilution assay against S. aureus, E. coli, P. aeruginosa and C. albicans. In particular, the antibacterial activity of the extract and fraction against S. aureus was superior to that of methyl paraben. Taken together, our results suggest that PMR could be used as a natural ingredient for antioxidant, cytoprotective and antimicrobial activities.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.4 s.54
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• pp.337-342
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• 2005

The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of different skin care ingredient concentrations on the effect of polyols and oils on the human skin moisturization and skin surface roughness. Polyols and oils were essential ingredients to make a skin care formulation. But these were still not understood how much concentration(s) were tested on human skin in the aspect of efficacy and sensory. We studied to examine various concentrations of ingredient by cosmetic companies using noninvasive methods. Polyols were composed of glycerol and butylene glycol (BG) as 1:1 ratio, and oils were hydrogenated polydecene, cetyl ethylhexanoate and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate (PTO(R), Stearinerie Dubois Fils Co., France) as 1:1:1 ratio. All compounds were tested $0{\sim}27%dml$ Polyols and $0{\sim}35%dml$ oils in O/W emulsions. We investigated the effect of water contents and the effect of stratum corneum roughness in forearm skin after application of compounds. Water contents of the skin measured by skin capacitance and skin surface roughness measured visual scoring of skin surface biopsy through the scanning electron microscopy. Water contents of the skin were highly related to amount of polyols (to 20%) and oils (to 12%). Correlation coefficients were 0.971 and 0.985 respectively (p<0.01), 2 h after application. Skin surface roughness was positively correlated with polyol contents in concentration dependent manner, and depend on oils up to 6%. The ratio of coefficient was 2.5 to 1 (polyol to oils) by regression analysis. Further studies will be conducted with other ingredients such as surfactants, lipids and aqueous materials, and with ether methods for noninvasive measurement.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.4 s.48
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• pp.471-477
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• 2004

Exposure to elevated temperatures, chemical (active oxigen), or physical stress (UV light) induces immediate physiological response, the expression of heat shock proteins in cells. Thus, cells with elevated Heat Shock Protein levels become more tolerant to stress conditions that are otherwise lethal. First, we studied on the new function of glucuronic acid (GA) as preventive material of skin aging. The application of the GA shows significant induction of Heat Shock Protein 70 kDa (HSP 70 kDa) in contrast to cells without it. GA at the concentration which can induce HSP 70 kDa, protects the cell death induced by second stress (heat shock and hydrogen peroxide) in NIH3T3 cells. Second, we studied on in vitro transdermal permeation characteristic of GA through the excised mouse skin. In this study, we compared the skin permeability of GA in water with O/W emulsion. As a result, skin permeation parameters of GA shows lag time 1.2 h, partition coefficient 0.114, permeation flult rate $0.83114 mg/cm^2/h.$ In case of lag time, O/W emulsion containing GA increase 2.48 h. Also, the total accumulation permeation content decreased in contrast to GA solution after 24 h. But it has long-term permeability of glucuronic acid. These results suggest that glucuronic acid could be a good cosmetic active ingredient.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.4 s.48
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• pp.509-514
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• 2004

The fruit or root of Ulmus davidiana var. Japonica and its extract has traditionally been used as anti inflammatation medicines as well as a remedy of the digestive ulcer for a long time. Ulmus davidiana var. Japonica has also been used to cure palliative and diuresis, because it contains lot of mucus and tannin. In this study, we examined the moisturizing effect and anti-inflammation effect of polysaccharides extracted from Ulmus davidiana var. Japonica to investigated whether it can be used as a cosmetic ingredient or not. The polysaccharides were extracted from Ulmus davidiana var. Japonica. Then the hydrolyzed was obtained through the hydrolysis. It has been ascertained that the polysaccharides we mainly composed of rhamnose, galactose, and glucose through HPLC experiments, and it has 20,000 of the molecular weight and 89.3 dL/g of intrinsic viscosity In a moisturizing test of measuring water loss in a desiccator and moisture content by Comeometer CM820, Ulmus davidiana root extract showed a similar moisturizing effect as hyaluronic acid. And its anti-inflammation effect on carrageenin-induced edema evaluated by measuring the thickness of swelling over paw induced by carrageenin (25 uL of $2\%$ carrageenin saline injection), the $\%$ swelling over paw treated with Ulmus davidiana root extract was much less than that of paw treated with carrageenin only. The anti-inflammatory effect of Ulmus davidiana root extract was almost similar to that of ketoprofen. These results can say that Ulmus davidiana root extract can be effectively used as a cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.269-277
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• 2015

Herbal plant extracts are good resources to find functional compounds for cosmetic ingredient. In this study, the extract of Areca semen (A. semen) was studied for melanogenesis inhibition and antioxidant activity. The results showed that ethyl acetate fraction of A. semen contained phenolic contents, $301.35{\pm}0.88{\mu}g/mg$, and exhibited potent antioxidant activity with $IC_{50}$ value of $1.02{\pm}0.07{\mu}g/mg$. Further, FRAP value exhibited potent antioxidant activity with $9.07{\pm}0.36mM$. Disk diffusion assay was performed for antibacterial activity. Ethyl acetate fraction of A. semen showed antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus) and Staphylococcus epidermidis (S. epidermidis) at $80{\mu}g/mL$, whereas it showed no significant antibacterial activity against Escherichia coli (E. coli). The results of cell viability indicated that ethyl acetate fraction did not show cytotoxicity to B16/F1 cells at $80{\mu}g/mL$ and showed significant cytotoxicity at $100{\mu}g/mL$ of concentration and showed inhibition of melanin synthesis inhibitory, $29.78{\pm}0.31%$ at $80{\mu}g/mL$. Furthermore, mRNA expressions of tyrosinase and MITF were decreased after treatment with ethyl acetate fraction in a dose-dependent manner. As a result, the ethyl acetate fraction of A. semen could be considered as potential as whitening agents.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.183-191
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• 2010

The crude ethanol extracts and their solvent-partitioned fractions derived from the leaf and twig of Viburnum dilatatum Thunb. were investigated for their 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) scavenging efficacy. The results showed that the butanol-soluble fraction ($SC_{50}\;=\;110.30\;{\mu}g/mL$) exhibited higher anti-oxidant activity than the crude ethanol extract ($SC_{50}\;=\;117.03\;{\mu}g/mL$) in the DPPH assay model. Then, the effects of the same extract samples on the production of nitric oxide were examined in LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 cells. Although the hexane and methylene chloride-soluble fraction showed a weak anti-oxidant activity, they exhibited potent inhibitory activity of NO production above 50 % at a concentration of $10\;{\mu}g/mL$. The hexane-soluble fraction also showed the inhibitory effect on mRNA expression of pro-inflammatory mediators such an TNF-$\alpha$, IL-$1{\beta}$, IL-6, iNOS and COX-2 in LPS-stimulated RAW264.7. These results suggest that the solvent extracts of Viburnum dilatatum Thunb. could be used as an anti-irritation ingredient.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.223-230
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• 2017

In this study, we evaluated the skin moisturizing effect of Brasenia schreberi (B. schreberi) mucilage polysaccharide on human skin and in vitro and the potent cosmetic ingredient for skin. To protect skin from various environmental stresses and aging, we should increase moisture content of skin and prevent water loss. We have found that polysaccharides extracted from mucilage of B. schreberi improved the roughness of skin with its lubricating behavior. In vitro, the expression of transglutaminase 1 (TGM1) gene, which plays a role in cross-linking the skin barrier, was increased when the keratinocytes were treated with B. schreberi polysaccharides. In addition, the expression of hyaluronan synthase 3 (HAS3) gene, an enzyme that synthesizes water-binding matrix hyaluronic acid, aquaporin 3 (AQP3), which regulates the movement of water and glycerol were also increased. In addition, an experiment to evaluate its potential as a cosmetic ingredient has shown anti-inflammatory and collagen synthesis-promoting effects. As a result, the mucilaginous polysaccharide from natural products which has not existed before, showed moisturizing effect, anti-inflammation and collagen synthesis-promoting effects for skin protection and hydration.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.183-193
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• 2016

This study attempted to investigate the possibility of the use of Morinda citrifolia (MC) as a cosmetic ingredient from its physiological activities such as antioxidant activity, cytotoxicity and anti-aging effect. MC is a tropical plant that has been used as traditional polynesian foods and medicines for over two thousand years. It has been reported that this shrub can improve antimicrobial, anti-cancer and anti-inflammatory effects and strengthen an immune system. The in vitro antioxidant activity of MC was performed to see the DPPH scavenging activity by measuring total polyphenol content and total flavonoid content. As a result, a lack of any cytotoxicity was confirmed in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) cell. When MC extract at a concentration of over $50{\sim}100{\mu}g/mL$ was added, MMP-1 expression considerably diminished. In an in vivo test, in addition, cream containing MC extract was prepared and applied to a total of 22 women in their 30 ~ 50s in ages in the morning and in the evening for four weeks. Changes in keratin, melanin index, pore, skin color and wrinkles under the naked eyes were then comparatively measured. Keratin levels slightly increased in the control group but decreased in the experimental group. In addition, wrinkles diminished in the experimental group. This study found that MC extract controls many MMP-1 related mechanisms with great potential for use as a natural ingredient of anti-aging cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.71-77
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• 2010

The water fern Azolla belongs to the Azollaceae and forms a symbiotic association with a $N_2$-fixing cyanobacterium, referred to as Anabaena azollae, and this association has currently been demonstrated to have potential as a nitrogen source for rice production. Because of that, Azolla fern has been used not only as organic manure in southern China and northern Vietnam for a long time but also as food for animate creatures in the underwater and decontaminant in the water. However, the phenolic compounds and active materials of Azolla have not been examined in detail in the past studies. In the present study, anti-oxidant ability test and experiment to find a particular active material of Azolla imbricata and Azolla imbricata fraction (AIF) were performed. In anti-oxidant test such as DPPH test and lipoxygenase inhibition test, the value of test represented high activities compared with authentic sample - green tea and NDGA (nordihydroguaiaretic acid). In MMP-1 test, related to collagen protection and elasticity of skin, its inhibitory effect was measured over 75 %, and the phenolic compounds of AIF related with this activity were confirmed luteolin derivatives by using FT-IR spectroscopy, element analyzer (EA) and Liquid chromatography-MASS spectroscopy.