Application of Glucuronic Acid with New Cosmetic Active Ingredient

새로운 노화 방지 성분으로서 글루쿠로닉 애씨드의 기능과 화장품 응용

  • 이근수 (한불화장품(주) 기술연구소) ;
  • 김진화 (한불화장품(주) 기술연구소) ;
  • 이천일 (한불화장품(주) 기술연구소) ;
  • 표형배 (한불화장품(주) 기술연구소) ;
  • 이공주 (이화여자대학교 약학부)
  • Published : 2004.12.01

Abstract

Exposure to elevated temperatures, chemical (active oxigen), or physical stress (UV light) induces immediate physiological response, the expression of heat shock proteins in cells. Thus, cells with elevated Heat Shock Protein levels become more tolerant to stress conditions that are otherwise lethal. First, we studied on the new function of glucuronic acid (GA) as preventive material of skin aging. The application of the GA shows significant induction of Heat Shock Protein 70 kDa (HSP 70 kDa) in contrast to cells without it. GA at the concentration which can induce HSP 70 kDa, protects the cell death induced by second stress (heat shock and hydrogen peroxide) in NIH3T3 cells. Second, we studied on in vitro transdermal permeation characteristic of GA through the excised mouse skin. In this study, we compared the skin permeability of GA in water with O/W emulsion. As a result, skin permeation parameters of GA shows lag time 1.2 h, partition coefficient 0.114, permeation flult rate $0.83114 mg/cm^2/h.$ In case of lag time, O/W emulsion containing GA increase 2.48 h. Also, the total accumulation permeation content decreased in contrast to GA solution after 24 h. But it has long-term permeability of glucuronic acid. These results suggest that glucuronic acid could be a good cosmetic active ingredient.

피부 세포는 외부의 유해 요소 즉, 스트레스 환경에 노출되었을 때 세포 자신을 보호하기 위하여 다양한 방어 및 복구 체계를 가지고 있는데 그 중 하나가 보호단백질인 열충격단백질 70 kDa의 발현이다 Glucuronic acid를 피부세포에 다양한 농도로 전처리한 다음 유해자극(열, 활성산소)을 주었을 경우, western blottting을 통해 $0.12\%$ 농도에서 세포 내 열충격단백질이 발현됨을 알 수 있었다 그리고 confocal microscopy 및 세포생존율 실험을 이용하여 열 및 활성 산소에 대한 우수한 세포보호 효과를 확인하였다. 또한 마우스 피부를 이용하여 glucuronic acid 및 수중유(O/W)형 에멀젼에 적용하였을 때 경피 흡수 양상을 비교한 결과, glucuronic acid는 빠른 경피흡수거동을 보였다(투과속도 $0.83114 mg/cm^2/h,$ 지연시간 1.2 h, 분배계수 0.114). 에멀젼에서는 투과속도는 $0.04153{\;}{\mu}g/cm^{2}/h,$ 누적투과량은 $1456.25{\;}{\mu}g/cm^{2}$로 감소하였지만 지연시간은 2.48 h으로 증가하였고 지속적인 경피흡수(서방성)를 보였다.

Keywords

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