• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제37권2호
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• pp.129-136
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• 2011

본 연구에서는 금불초 꽃의 50 % 에탄올 추출물로부터 얻은 ethyl acetate 분획을 0.25 % 함유한 제품의 안정성 및 피부 보습효과를 평가하였다. 추출물을 함유한 크림을 제조하여 12주 동안 태양광선에서의 노출과 다양한 온도(4, 20, 37 및 $45^{\circ}C$) 하에서 8주 동안은 2주 간격으로, 8주에서 12주까지는 4주 간격으로 pH, 흡광도 및 점도의 변화를 측정하였다. 금불초 꽃 추출물 함유크림(시험 제형)과 함유하지 않은 크림(비교 제형)의 pH 측정 결과 $4, 25^{\circ}C$ 하에서는 pH의 변화가 거의 없었지만, $37, 45^{\circ}C$, 태양광선 하에서는 감소하는 경향을 보였다. 점도 측정 결과는 시험 제형과 비교 제형의 값이 전체적으로 감소하였지만, 두 제형의 변화 양상이 같은 것으로 보아 금불초 꽃 추출물은 크림의 점도 감소에 영향을 주지 않고, 크림 제조 시 크림에 함유되어 있는 성분들의 조성 및 성분들 간의 물리 화학적 반응으로 인하여 점도 변화가 있는 것으로 생각되어진다. 흡광도 측정에서는 2주 후 전체적으로 감소가 있었으나, 4주 후 측정 시에는 2주 후의 측정치와 거의 동일한 값을 나타내어 금불초 꽃 추출물이 안정화된 것으로 보인다. 또한, 추출물 함유크림과 대조군 크림은 12주 동안 동일한 실험 조건에서, 변취나 변색이 나타나지 않았고, 크리밍이나 응집과 같은 현상 역시 관찰되지 않았다. 금불초 꽃의 ethyl acetate 분획을 함유한 크림을 피부에 도포한 후 피부 수분 함량 및 경표피 수분 손실량의 변화를 측정한 결과 금불초 꽃 추출물을 함유한 크림이 피부에 우수한 보습 효과를 나타냄을 확인할 수 있었다. 이러한 결과들로부터, 금불초 꽃 추출물을 함유한 크림은 비교적 안정함을 확인하였으며, 향후 제품에 응용 시 사전 연구에서 나타난 항산화 및 항균, 미백에 대한 효과를 발휘할 수 있도록 보완 연구가 이루어진다면 화장품의 제품화가 가능할 것이라고 사료된다.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제48권4호
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• pp.313-319
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• 2022

본 연구에서는 국내산 대마로부터 추출된 순도 99% 이상 칸나비디올(cannabidiol, CBD)을 1% 함유한 크림의 안정성을 평가하였다. 12 주간 온도별 저장조건(4 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃, 45 ℃)에서 2 주 간격으로 pH, 경도, 함량, 색도를 측정하였다. CBD를 1% 함유한 실험군 의 pH는 대조군보다 더 감소하는 경향을 나타내었다. HPLC를 이용하여 온도별로 12 주 동안 실험군 내 CBD의 함량 변화를 확인한 결과, 온도에 따른 감소량의 차이를 확인하였다. 분광측색계를 이용하여 색차를 확인한 결과, 저장 기간 및 온도 증가에 따라 대조군에 비해 실험군 황색도가 증가함을 확인하였다. 이상의 결과로부터 pH 5 ~ 6의 실험군 제형의 온도에 따른 함량 감소 및 색상 변화를 확인하였다. CBD를 향후 의약품 및 화장품에 적용 시 온도에 따른 CBD의 역가 및 이화학적 품질변화를 고려한 연구개발이 수행되어야 할 것으로 판단된다.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제27권1호
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• pp.29-42
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• 2001

We had prepared MLV liposome with Hibiscus Esculentus Ext.(HEE) which have fluorescent light in order to evaluate its percutaneous absorption about hairless rat skin. Then we investigated particle size of MLV using confocal laser scanning microscope(CLSM) and transmission electron microscope(TEM), respectively. Stability of MLV liposome and penetration of MLV liposome to hairless rat skin was measured by CLSM. As a result of experiments, MLV was globular shape and the rage of particle size was 0.3-0.5$\mu\textrm{m}$ mostly. Cream-type MLV had high stability comparatively. When we treated with MLV to rat skin, skin penetration was enhanced, especially, the optimum concentration of MLV on penetration to rat skin was 10%. Optimum penetration time was 6hr-12hr. And MLV-type HEE was more effective on percutaneous absorption than HEE-cream or liposome-type HEE.

• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 2003년도 IFSCC Conference Proceeding Book II
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• pp.219-238
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• 2003

Indole-3-acetic acid (IAA) molecule has been successfully encapsulated in biocompatible inorganic matrix in order for the cosmetic application such as superfacial fine line reduction. The encapsulation was realized through chemical reaction involving simultaneous formation of inorganic lattice and 1M giving rise to an 1M-inorganic nanohybrid (IAA-brid) which shows excellent storage stability and sustained releasing property of indole-3-acetic acid. The clinical efficacy of essence cream containing IAA-brid as anti-wrinkle formulation was also carefully evaluated by measuring the roughness of the skin replica before and after treatment. Upon administration of the cream on the eye-area, the fine-line is drastically reduced.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.55-64
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• 1990

Soybean fatty acid, the largest byproduct in the production of soybean oil, was formulated for hand cream, oil in water emulsion base, to improve the suppleness and elasticity of skin. The stability of emulsion observed by a macroscopic method was used as a characteristic index for deciding an optimum formula of hand creams. The optimum formula of the most stable hand cream was obtained from polynomial regression equation, contour graphs and partial derivative graphs. The values of soybean fatty acid and stearyl alcohol in the obtained optimum formula were 9.75 and 14.75 w/w%, respectively, and sodium lauryl sulfate was not needed. Experimental value for the stability of hand cream prepared according to the optimum formula was 76,14 days, and the prediction value by computation method was 73.25 days. From the results of accelerated tests by elevated temperature, the stability of hand cream by optimum formula was 1.7 year at room temperature $(25^{\circ}C)$. The hand cream containing soybean fatty acid was found to be free of primary irritant substance to the skin by Draize technique.

• Korea-Australia Rheology Journal
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.125-130
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• 2003

The emulsion stability of cosmetic creams based on the water-in-oil (W/O) high internal phase emulsions (HIPEs) containing water, squalane oil and cetyl dimethicone copolyol was investigated with various compositional changes, such as electrolyte concentration, oil polarity and water phase volume fraction. The rheological consistency was mainly destroyed by the coalescence of the deformed water droplets. The slope change of complex modulus versus water phase volume fraction monitored in the linear viscoelastic region could be explained with the resistance to coalescence of the deformed interfacial film of water droplets in concentrated W/O emulsions: the greater the increase of complex modulus was, the more the coalescence occurred and the less consistent the emulsions were. Emulsion stability was dependent on the addition of electrolyte to the water phase. Increasing the electrolyte concentration increased the refractive index of the water phase, and thus decreased the refractive index difference between oil and water phases. This decreased the attractive force between water droplets, which resulted in reducing the coalescence of droplets and increasing the stability of emulsions. Increasing the oil polarity tended to increase emulsion consistency, but did not show clear difference in cream hardness among the emulsions.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.24-30
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• 1998

Inhibitory effects of the new material obtained from Areca catechu seed (CC-516) according to a special process, and its applicability to the skin as a cosmetic raw material in terms of its efficacy were presented. Areca catechu extract out of 150 medicinal plants, exhibited high inhibitory effect on the porcine pancreatic elastase ($IC_{50}$ : $40.8{\mu}$g/ml). It also had an inhibitory effect on the human leukocyte elastase ($IC_{50}$ : 48.1$\mu$g/ml), hyaluronidase ($IC_{50}$ : $416{\mu}$g/ml), antioxidative activity ($IC_{50}$ : $45.4\mu$g/ml) and free radical scavenging activity ($SC_{50}$ : $10.2{\mu}$g/ml). The cream contained 3％ of CC-516 improved skin hydration above 16.5％. Especially, the skin elasticity increases more than 35% and skin wrinkles decreased more than 23％. The CC-516 was designed to be utilized in cosmetology. The cream containing 3％ of this product has not only protecting effect on the skin mechanical properties provided by the collagen and the elastin in the derm but also restructuring effect of scarring or aging tissue.

• 한국미생물·생명공학회지
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• 제40권1호
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• pp.43-49
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• 2012

비타민나무 잎 추출물 에틸아세테이트 분획물의 항균활성(MIC)을 측정한 결과 피부염의 원인인 S. aureus에서 0.06%로 methyl paraben(MP)의 0.25% 및 quercetin의 0.15%와비교하여 큰 항균활성을 나타내었으며, 여드름균인 P. acnes는 0.25%로 MP의 0.25% 및 quercetin 0.30%와 비슷한 항여드름균 활성을 나타내었다. 0.25% 비타민나무 잎 추출물을 함유한 크림의 12주 동안온도별 저장($4^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$, $37^{\circ}C$, $45^{\circ}C$) 및 태양광선 노출에서pH 결과는 0.08, 0.23 0.52, 1.34, 0.70 감소하여 안정적인 순서는 $4^{\circ}C$ > $25^{\circ}C$ > $37^{\circ}C$ > 태양광선 > $45^{\circ}C$로 측정되었다. 온도별 저장 조건에서 비교크림의 점도는 초기 점도보다 2,096 cP 낮은 았지만 저장 기간동안 점도의 변화가 대조크림의 변화보다 적은 감소폭을 나타내었으며 태양광선에 노출시킨 크림의 영향을 제외하고는 모두 대조크림과 비슷한 경향성을 나타내었다. 태양광선에서 대조크림의 점도가 감소하는 것과 비교해서 비교크림 점도의 증가는 비타민나무 잎 추출물이 태양광선에 대항하는 보호제로 크림의 점도를 유지시켜 제품을 안정화시키는데 기여한 것으로 사료된다. 비타민나무 잎 추출물의 에틸아세테이트 분획물을 에탄올에 용해시켜 4주 동안 저장 하였을 때 비타민나무 잎 추출물의 최대 흡수파장인 270 nm에서 관찰시 초기 흡광도에 비해 약 43% 감소하였고, 비교크림을 온도별로 저장하였을 때는 $4^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$에서 흡광도 변화는 각각 6%, 5%로 거의 변화가 없었다고 보여지며 $37^{\circ}C$, $45^{\circ}C$, 태양광선에 저장한 비교크림은 22%, 27%, 37% 감소하였다. 크리밍이나 응집, 합일과 같은 분리 현상이나 산화에 의한 특이취도 관찰되지 않았다. 이러한 결과들로부터, 비타민나무 잎의 에틸아세테이트 분획물은 0.25%에서 P. ovale, P. acnes, S. aureus에 대한 항균활성 나타내며 이에 따른 결과를 참고하여 비타민나무 잎추출물을 0.25% 함유한 크림은 비교적 안정함을 확인하였다. 향후 제품에 응용 시 사전 연구에서[8] 나타난 항산화및 미백과 주름개선에 대한 효과를 발휘할 수 있도록 보완연구가 이루어 진다면 화장품의 제품화가 가능할 것으로 사료된다.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.293-298
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• 2003

This study was attempted to develop the physicochemical ad morphological stability test methods for the cream and lotion formulations among the cosmetic foundations and to provide the guidance for the stability methods with respect to basic emulsions and creams. With these developed stability test methods, we can evaluate the expired date or life time of the available basic cosmetics, especially basic lotions ad creams. Also, the stability test methods established in this study can be used as a guideline to test physical and morphological stability of cosmetics in the future. Thus, we selected two types of basic cosmetics such as lotions and creams made by four different cosmetic companies ad applied them to the stability test methods depending on the temperature changes such as temperature cycling and freezing-thawing cycling test. After the temperature changes, the conductivity, turbidity, particle size, creaming ratio and pH changes of the creams and lotions were evaluated and morphological changes such as crystal formation, odor, color and feeling of the creams and lotions were also tested. As the results of the stability tests, all the tested creams and lotions except for one lotion were stable. Therefore, it may be concluded that these short-term accelerated stability tests as physical stability test depending on the temperature change study were suitable for the stability testing methods for the basic cosmetics and may be useful for the establishment of the guideline for the stability test of cosmetics.

• 한국응용과학기술학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.67-75
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• 2000

Cosmetic industries have recently developed sun-block products, which are composed of W/O or O/W emulsion system. It was very difficult for waterproofing product to show the stability in W/O emulsion with $TiO_{2}$. To enhance the stability of W/O emulsion, it needs to be combined with the water and oil soluble components as the gelling agents. The emulsifiers used in W/O were 3.0% of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, 2.0% of sorbitan sesquioleate as the basic emulsifiers, and 0.6% of quaternium-18 bentonite and 1.5% of dextrin palmitate as stabilizer were used. The content of titanium dioxide was optimized up to 8.0%. Titanium dioxide was used as the UV scattering powder coated with $Al_{2}O_{3}$(UV-sperse T40/TN). The sunscreen cream prepared with W/O emulsion system by using QB and DP showed higher stability than that of W/O emulsion system by using each QB and DP. W/O emulsion from Formula 3 for passing one year was very durable more than F1 and F2. Within W/O emulsion by observing F1, F2 and F3 for one year, F3 was more excellent than F2 and F3 when they were observed at RT, $4^{\circ}C$, $40^{\circ}C$, because F3 used the mixed QB and DP in W/O emulsion. The zeta potential for F1, F2, and F3 after one year were 21, 30 and 43, respectively. From these result F3 was found best stable emulsion. The in-vitro SPF value for F3 was 35 for the initial product at room temperature and also, the in-vitro SPF values of F3 was 32 for after one year. Finally, the mean in-vivo SPF value of 10 volunteers for F3 was 27.3 by the Korea cosmetic association made the rules of SPF.