• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.440-445
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• 2018

In this study, the stability of O/W cosmetic facial cream emulsions according to HLB values was evaluated by mixing nonionic surfactants, such as Brij 78&72 and Brij 98&92. Brij 78&72 (steareth-20&steareth-2, EMS-01), saturated fatty acid, and Brij 98&92 (oleth-20&oleth-2, EMS-02), unsaturated fatty acid, were used as mixed surfactants. The stability of the O/W emulsion was evaluated by using the emulsion viscosity, particle size, particle size distribution, and zeta-potential. The viscosity of the emulsion increased with the increase of time for EMS-01 while that of EMS-02 decreased with the increase of HLB value. The particle size of both EMS-01 and EMS-02 increased with time. The emulsifier with a HLB value of 10.8, which is the most similar to the required HLB value of mineral oil, 10.5, had the smallest particle size and highest density and also showed the highest emulsion stability. The zeta-potential of both emulsions tended to increase with the HLB value. No significant changes were observed in emulsions of the HLB value of 10.8 or more. The saturated fatty acid system, EMS-01, exhibited a higher zeta-potential value than that of the unsaturated fatty acid EMS-02 and also was superior in the stability.

• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.527-531
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• 2016

Emulsification is a fundamental process of cosmetics manufacture which produces stabilized emulsion by dispersing the liquid from the one side to the other by adding an emulsifier in an immiscible liquid. Various types of emulsifiers can produce various cosmetics. In this study, we evaluated the stability of emulsifier by measuring variations in the viscosity, particle size and particle size distribution. HLB values of nonionic emulsifiers which are used in this paper are 12.9, 12.9, 12.6 and 12.5 for EMU-01, EMU-02, EMU-03 and EMU-04, respectively. All types of emulsions showed an increase in the particle size and a decrease in the viscosity with the time. Also they showed a decrease in the particle size and an increase in the viscosity with respect to increasing the stirring speed. However, the stability of emulsions up to 56 days was secured by observing the non-separation of emulsions. In addition, the viscosity of the emulsions was measured in the order of EMU-01 > EMU-02 > EMU-03 > EMU-04 while the size of particles was measured in the order of $EMU-01{\approx}EMU-02$ > $EMU-03{\approx}EMU-04$. This indicates that our emulsion can be potentially used for preparing a cosmetic facial cream.

• The Journal of Korean Medicine Ophthalmology and Otolaryngology and Dermatology
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.111-121
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• 2015

Objective : The aim of this study is to assess the effect of Korean Herbal Cosmetic on quality of life (QoL) of Korean Herbal Cosmetics Using Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI) stratified by blind versus non-blinded option.Methods : Forty five healthy females aged 30's to 40's were recruited for this study. Volunteers were divided into two groups : Group A (n=22) was provided an anti-aging cream with ginseng extract in the original packaging including the brand name and logo. Group B (n=23) were provided same cream in a plain white normal jar without any package decoration or logo.Results : All females except two volunteers in group A completed a DLQI questionnaire, baseline, after 4 weeks and 8 weeks of treatment. The baseline of DLQI scores of all groups was 3.23±2.72. There was a significant difference in DLQI scores between before, 4 weeks and 8 weeks after in both groups ; The scores changed from 4.25±3.45 to 0.95±1.15 at 4 weeks, 1.00±1.72 at 8 weeks in group A, The scores of group B changed from 2.35±1.47 to 0.83±1.23 at 4 weeks, 0.65±0.98 at 8 weeks. But both had no interaction effect between follow up times and groups. Subscale DLQI scores improved after 4weeks were 'Symptoms and feelings', only in group BConclusions : Both groups showed significant improvements in QoL quality scores evaluated by DLQI. However, interaction was not observed for whether the participants knew the brand and content of the cream.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.592-599
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• 2019

This study is to stabilize insoluble and unstable active ingredient which is Idebenone (INCI name: hydroxydecyl ubiquinone) in a multi-lamellar vesicle (MLV) and to stabilize it in the skin care cosmetics. Idebenone is good effective raw material in the treatment of Alzheimer's disease in the medical field and a powerful antioxidant in dermatology. It is well known as a substance that inhibits the formation of melanin and cleans the skin pigment. However, it did not dissolve in any solvent and it was difficult to apply in cosmetic applications. Niosome vesicle was able to develop a nano-particle by making a multi-layer of idebenone encapsulated with a nonionic surfactant, hydrogenated lecithin and glycine soja (soybean) sterols and passing it through a high pressure microfluidizer. Idebenone niosome vesicle (INV) has been developed to have the ability to dissolve transparently in water and to promote transdermal penetration. The appearance of the INV was a yellowish liquid having specific odor, and the particle size distribution of INV was about 10~80 nm. The pH was 5~8 (mean=6.8). This capsulation with idebenone was stored in a $45^{\circ}C$ incubator for 3 months and its stability was observed and quantitatively measured by HPLC. As a result, the stability of the sample encapsulated in the niosome vesicle (97.5%) was about 66.3% higher than that of the non-capsule sample of 32.5%. Idebenone 1% INV was used for the efficacy test and clinical trial evaluation as follows. The anti-oxidative activity of INV was 38.2%, which was superior to that of 12.8% tocopherol (control). The melanin-reducing effect of B16 melanoma cells was better than INV (17.4%) and Albutin (control) (9.6%). Pro-collagen synthesis rate was 128.2% for INV and 89.3% for tocopherol (control). The skin moisturizing effect was 15.5% better than the placebo sample. The elasticity effect was 9.7% better than the placebo sample. As an application field, INV containing 1% of idebenone is expected to be able to develop various functional cosmetic formulations such as skin toner, ampoule essence, cream, eye cream and sunblock cream. In addition, it is expected that this encapsulated material will be widely applicable to emulsifying agents for skin use in the pharmaceutical industry as well as the cosmetics industry.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.33-40
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• 2011

Ionizing radiation can be used to improve the color of green tea extract to brighter. As a result, the irradiated green tea extract can be applied easier and broader in food or cosmetic industry. To confirm the retention of the biological activities of the cosmetic products added with green tea polyphenols (PPs), the real cosmetic products including a skin lotion (PS) and an essence (PE) cream were manufactured. Irradiation also applied to the manufactured cosmetic products to see their improvement of color and changes of biological activity. The PP showed 72% of electron donating ability (EDA) at a 5 ppm concentration and the PS and PE containing 2% PP showed higher than 60%, which was similar inhibition activity to vitamin C. The inhibition of superoxide dismutase (SOD)-like activity of PP, PS, and PE were higher than 55% at a 500 ppm concentration and the inhibition of xanthine oxidase (XOase) were also higher than 65% at a 200 ppm concentration. The measurement of lipid oxidation by addition of $Cu^{2+}$ and $Fe^{2+}$ as prooxidants showed that PP and PS had higher metal chelating ability for $Fe^{2+}$ than that of PE and the ability increased by increase of polyphenol concentration isolated from green tea. The $Cu^{2+}$ chelating ability of PP and PS showed higher than 90% at a 200 ppm concentration. Therefore, it is concluded that addition of PP in manufacturing PS and PE retains its biological activities including EDA, inhibition of XOase and SOD-like activity, and metal chelating ability in the manufactured cosmetic products. In addition, irradiation of PS and PE improved color of the products containing PP brighter without any adverse changes in biological activity of the products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.3
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• pp.167-175
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• 2013

The aim of this study is to evaluate the effect of cosmetic products containing concentrated ginseng using novel methods based on Traditional Korean medicine (TKM). In TKM, inspection of facial skin was an important method to diagnose symptoms and body condition of patients. Doctors in oriental medicine examined a patient as observing symptoms on the face and skin related to inner organs. This was called "mang-jin. In this study, eleven female, who have been using the cosmetic products containing concentrated ginseng for the last 5 years, and eleven healthy controls, who have never used the same product, were recruited. Three doctors in oriental medicine evaluated 17 inspection factors on facial skin. And 7 non-invasive skin bioengineering factors were assessed by various instruments at the same time. In results, 7 factors of the inspection were better in using the product than in controls. And sebum, roughness, pigmentation and wrinkle depth were significantly lower in using the product than in controls. So, this results propose that the cosmetic product containing concentrated ginseng has a good anti-aging effect on skin. And it is suggested that the novel evaluation method combined, Traditional Korean medicine and modern bioengineering technique, has to be developed for holistic concept of Hanbang cosmetics.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 2016

This study is to make the liquid crystalline structure using sucrose distearate (Sucro-DS) emulsifier to create the hydrophilic type oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, the droplets of the emulsion having a structure of a multi-lamellar structure. We have studied the physicochemical properties of Sucro-DS using those techniques. And it has been studied in the emulsion performance. In order to form the liquid crystalline structure applying 3 wt% of Sucro-DS, 5 wt% of glycerin, 5 wt% of squalane, 5 wt% of capric/caprylic triglyceride, 3wt% of cetostearyl alcohol, 1wt% of glyceryl mono-stearate, 78 wt% of pure water in mixture having the lamellar structure of stable multi-layer system was found to formed. By applying them, they were described how to create an unstable active material encapsulated cream. Further, the moisturizing cream was studied using this technique. It reported the results to the skin improvement effect by the human clinical trials. The pH range to produce a stable liquid crystal phase using a Sucro-DS was maintained in 5.2~7.5. In order to increase the stability of the liquid crystal, it was when behenyl alcohol containing 3 wt%, the hardness at this time was 13 kg/mm,min. Viscosity of the same amount was 25,000mPas/min. After a test for the effects of the emulsions, the concentration of 6 wt% Sucro-DS is that was appropriate, the particle size of the liquid crystal was 4~6mm. It was observed through a microscope analysis, reliability of the liquid crystal changes for 3 months was found to get stable at each $4^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$ and $45^{\circ}C$. In clinical trial test, before applying a moisturizing effect it was $13.4{\pm}7%$. Moisturizing cream liquid crystal was not formed in $14.5{\pm}5%$. Therefore, applying than ever before could see the moisture about 8.2% was improved. On the other hand, it was the moisturizing effect of the liquid cream is $19.2{\pm}7%$. The results showed that 43.3% improvement than that previously used. Applications fields, Sucro-DS emulsifier used liquid cream, lotion, eye cream and a variety of formulations can be developed, as well as the cosmetics industry is expected to be wide fields in the application of the external preparation for skin emulsion technology in the pharmaceutical industry and pharmaceutical industry.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.3
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• pp.263-273
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• 2012

Recent studies have uncovered attractive properties of para-coumaric acid (PCA) as a potential skin hywhitening agent. The purpose of the current study was to examine its UVB-shielding effects. Effects of PCA on the viability of HaCaT cells exposed to UVB were assessed in vitro in comparison with other aromatic amino acid metabolites that have similar UV absorption spectra. For in vivo test, PCA cream (1.5 %) and cream base were topically applied to the dorsal skin of SKH-1 hairless mice and the inflammatory responses due to UVB exposure were monitored by changes in skin color (erythema) and thickness (edema). The cream application-UVB exposure regimen was repeated every other day for a total of 12 sessions. When HaCaT cells were irradiated with UVB, there was a dose-dependent decline in cell viability. The cell viability decline due to UVB exposure (10 mJ $cm^{-2}$) was significantly prevented by 100 ${\mu}M$ PCA, cinnamic acid, urocanic acid, or indole acrylic acid by 39, 27, 39, or 31 %, respectively. Topical application of PCA cream onto the dorsal skin of hairless mice (10 ${\mu}g\;cm^{-2}$) attenuated the changes of color parameters, $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$ values, and thickness of the UVB (150 mJ $cm^{-2}$)-exposed skin by 59, 50, 58, and 53 %, respectively. The current study, together with the previous studies that demonstrated the antimelanogenic effects of PCA, suggested that PCA may prevent not only dyspigmentation but also inflammatory reactions in the UVB-exposed skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.3
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• pp.303-309
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• 2016

The human skins had a lot of changes as aging. The synthesis of collagens and elastic fibers were reduced and the expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMPs) was increased in the dermis. These changes have been known to be responsible for skin wrinkle formation. In this study, we tried to develop pre-indicator of inner skin aging, and investigated the effect of the cream product containing Gynostemma pentaphyllum gypenoside fraction (Gynostemma pentaphyllum gypenoside cream). 21 ~ 34 years old 52 Korean female volunteers without crow's feet were chosen for this clinical study. The starting point of inner skin aging was confirmed through dermal density measurement, even though outside skin wrinkles were not observed. In addition, 4 and 8 weeks treatment of G. pentaphyllum gypenoside cream significantly increased age-related reduction of dermal density. These results suggest that the evaluation of dermal density can be used as pre-indicator of skin aging. Furthermore, G. pentaphyllum gypenoside fraction is a potential anti-wrinkle agent for prevention and treatment of skin aging.

• KSBB Journal
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.83-86
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• 2011

The stability of cream containing lotus leaf extract (LLE) was evaluated. Stability pH and viscosity were measured at 3 different temperatures ($25^{\circ}C$, $45^{\circ}C$ and $65^{\circ}C$), and at room temperature under the sun light at 2 day intervals during 12 days. The cleansing cream and foam cleansing containing the extract did not show a significant pH change at the different temperatures. However, the pH of the cleansing cream and foam cleansing containing LLE slightly decreased at $25^{\circ}C$. They showed a high stability at temperature conditions ($45^{\circ}C$ and $65^{\circ}C$) and under the sun light condition. The cleansing cream and foam cleansing containing LLE did not show a significant viscosity change at $25^{\circ}C$, but had a tendency of decrease at $45^{\circ}C$ and $65^{\circ}C$. There was no significant offflavor and discoloration as well as physical changes such as creaming and cohesion at $25-65^{\circ}C$ and under the sun light condition. And this LLE could be used as a stable functional cosmetic material.