• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.127-134
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• 2015

We investigated the growth-inhibitory activities of cosmetics and their preservatives against pathogens and resident skin bacteria. Of the tested cosmetics, preservatives such as parabens, 1,2-hexanediol, phenoxyethanol-contained toner, emulsion, cream and baby cream exhibited potent antibacterial effects against Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli and Pseudomonas aeruginosa. Parabens, 1,2-hexanediol and phenoxyethanol inhibited the growth of pathogens, as well as skin-resident bacteria such as Staphilococcus epidermidis, Shigella flexneri, Enterobacter aerogenes and so on. The application of a basic cream containing phenoxyethanol to human skin was shown to disturb the skin microbiota: at the phylum level, Proteobacteria increased and at species level, 4P004125_s increased and Propionibacterium humerusii decreased. Based on these findings, parabens, 1,2-hexanediol and phenoxyethanol have antimicrobial activity and cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol may disturb skin microbiota.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.157-165
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• 2010

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase of Rhododendron brachycarpum D. Don extracts were investigated. And the moisturizing effect of cream containing R. brachycarpum D. Don extract were investigated by clinical trial. The ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (1.83 ${\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent the free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The 50 % extract fraction (0.064 ${\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of R. brachycarpum D. Don on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner (1 ~ 10 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts on tyrosinase were determined with ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (70.5 ${\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract (122.40 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) on elastase were determined with ethyl acetate of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (43.50 ${\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract (20.73 ${\mu}g/mL$). The cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts was formulated for skin hydration effect and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The cream containing R. brachycarpum D. Don extract was applied to the right lower arm. After 180 min, the water contents in skin were increased by 1 ~ 4 % than the placebo cream. And TEWL of parts was decreased as 7.7 $g/m^2h$ (experimental cream) and 8.9 $g/m^2h$ (placebo cream) respectively. These results indicate that extract/fractions of R. brachycarpum D. Don can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And inhibitory activity on tyrosinase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for whitening and anti-wrinkle products. Also the increase of skin hydration of the cream containing extract could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antiaging.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.36 no.5
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• pp.430-439
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• 2020

This study focused on analyzing solid brown cosmetic residues that were excavated from the tomb of the Hwahyeop princess. The cosmetics had been buried in 1752 in Cheonghwa Baekja (small porcelain jars) within a Huigwakham (a stone box sealed with lime). A literature search and chemical analyses of the relics were conducted at the National Palace Museum of Korea. Based on the results of these analyses, raw materials and manufacturing methods for reproduction of the cosmetic were selected and then cream-form cosmetics were prepared. Aging tests using heat, ultraviolet (UV) radiation, and CO₂ were carried out to emulate the deterioration of the excavated cosmetics. Further chemical analyses and functionality tests were performed to evaluate changes from the tests and the effect as a cosmetic. As heat aging progressed, among the reproduced cosmetics, the one which has a high proposition of oil showed a color difference value of 32; the oxidation of oils involved chemical changes in O-H and C=C groups. As the cosmetic cream deteriorated under UV aging, the pH value became acidic. The result of the functional coverage test of the reproduced cosmetic cream was lower than the standard coverage ratio of modern cosmetics.

• The Journal of Korean Medicine Ophthalmology and Otolaryngology and Dermatology
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.129-149
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• 2012

Objective : The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of cosmetic cream containing Samwhangsejegamibang Extracts on Atopic dermatitis patients. Methods : A total of 51 patients who visited Wonkwang Oriental Medical Center from April 8th, 2011 to October 8th, 2011 were included in this study. In this study, the patients were treated with Samwhangsejegamibang (experimental group) and placebo group. We observed scorad index, IGA, moisture content of skin, oil content of skin, wrinkled skin and hematological examination for 4 weeks. Results : 1. Comparison of changes in Scorad Index, depending on the perspective, the experimental group showed a statistically significant decline than the placebo group. 2. Comparison of change in IGA, depending on the perspective, the experimental group showed a statistically significant decline than the placebo group. 3. Comparison of change in moisture content, oil content of skin and wrinkled skin, both the experimental group and the placebo group showed level elevation but there was no statistically significant change. 4. Comparison of change in IgE and Eosinophil, both the experimental group and the placebo group showed no statistical significance. Conclusions : Considering the above experiments, it is suggested that cosmetic cream containing Samwhangsejegamibang extracts have a positive effect on atopic dermatitis patients.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.1
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• pp.37-43
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• 2016

This research was carried out to identify the whitening effect of Banana leaf extract. B16F10 cells were used to measure cell viability, mRNA expression, and tyrosinase activity inhibition assay from B16F10 cell. We also carried out clinical test of the cream product containing banana leaf extract. In this study, we elucidated the effects of banana leaf extract on TRP1 / TRP2 / Tyr mRNA expression and tyrosinase activity inhibition. Quantitative real-time PCR showed that banana leaf extract decreased mRNA level of TRP1, TRP2 and Tyr gene and tyrosinase activity inhibition assay also revealed that banana leaf extract 65% decreased melanin production in B16F10 cell. Banana leaf extract cream can whiten the skin darkness induced by ultraviolet. Therefore, we successfully identified the whitening effect of banana leaf extract, and this finding suggested the banana leaf extract is a considerable potent cosmetic ingredient for skin whitening. Based on this, we anticipated further researches about banana leaf extract for mechanism to develop not only cosmetics but healthcare food or medicines.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.301-307
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• 2009

In the previous study, we evaluated and reported about the anti-oxidative activities of extract/fraction of Castanea crenata leaf. Extract/fraction of Castanea crenata leaf showed excellent free radical scavenging activity, cell protective activity and inhibitory activity on tyrosinase and elastase. In this study, in order to investigate the stability of cream containing 0.2 % Castanea crenata ethyl acetate fraction. pH, viscosity, and absorbance were measured under 4 different temperature ($4^{\circ}C$, $20^{\circ}C$, $37^{\circ}C$, $45^{\circ}C)$ and under the sun light at 2 weeks intervals for the 8 weeks. The variations on pH and viscosity of all experimental creams were similar to control cream. The absorbance variation of extract from experimental cream at 353 nm was in the order: under the sun > $45^{\circ}C$ > $37^{\circ}C$ > $20^{\circ}C$ > $4^{\circ}C$. It shows that ethyl acetate fraction in the cream can be oxidized under the sun. The bad smell and discoloration were not shown. Also, physical changes as creaming and cohesion were not shown. Also, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and water contents in skin were measured. The cream containing Castanea cranata leaf extract was applied to the right lower arm. After 120 min, TEWL of parts was decreased as 29.7 % (experimental cream) and 5.4 % (control cream) respectively. And the water contents in skin were increased 22.6 % (experimental cream) and 24.7 % (control cream) respectively. It was confirmed that a cream containing ethyl acetate fraction of Castanea crenata leaf shows the superior moisturizing effect. The results showed that Castanea crenata leaf extract could be used as a new active ingredient for anti-aging cosmeceuticals.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.79-86
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• 2007

The aim of this study was to investigate the inhibitory effects of Forsythia suspensa fruit extracts (FSfE) ($0.1{\sim}1.0%$) and their active component on melanogenesis. FSfE dose-dependently inhibited melanin synthesis (up to $63.1{\pm}3.1%$ at the concentration of 1.0%) without cell cytotoxicity. We purifed one active compound from FSfE and identified its structure. It was identified as 4-[(3,4-Dimethoxyphenyl)methyl)]dihydro-3-[(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)methyl]-2(3H)-furanone (arctigenin) by $^1H-NMR,\;^{13}C-NMR$, and Mass analysis. Arctigenin also inhibited melanin synthesis in a dose dependent manner (up to $52.7{\pm}3.1%$ at the concentration of $3.0{\mu}g/mL$). In order to verify the whitening activity of the cream containing 3% FSfE, we performed the clinical test with twenty five female volunteers for 8 weeks. Bioengineering analyses and visual assessment by doctors at the initial time point and 8 weeks after applications showed that cream containing FSfE have significant whiteining effect (paired t-test). From the results, we conclude that the FSfE can be used as a useful whitening agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.161-167
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• 1997

Determination of several cationic surfactants in cosmetics has been investigated. Reverse phase ion pair chromatography was used to identify and quantitate cationic surfactants. Cationic surfactants analyzed in this experiment were cetylpyridium chloride, stearyltrimetylammonium chloride, bezalkonium chloride, benzyldicethylcetylammonium chloride, and bihenyltrimethyl ammonium chloride. The separation was achieved on a reverse phase coumn with 10mM HCl-acetonitrile eluent. In this condition, the most of cationic surfactants with exception of CPC and CTAC respectively with suppressed conductivity detector and UV detector connected in series. The calibration curves obtained by plotting the peak areas of the cationic surfactants were linear at levels ranging from 0.005 to 0.1% correlation coefficient, r=0.9988. The detection limits were 1 to 5ppm in sample solution. The average recoveries of cationic surfactants added to hair treatment cream and hair rinse in three to five experiments were 96.7 105.2% and relative standard deviations were 1.1-3.8%. The case that there were CPC and CTAC in same solution was also tested. CPC and CTAC which couldn't be separated on reverse phase column were quantitated with suppressed conductivity detector and UV detector connected in series. Recovery of CPC and CTAC were 101.6 and 89.2% respectively. The proposed method was applied to the determination of cationic surfactants in commercial hair treatment cream.

• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.150-155
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• 2005

The ethanolic extract of chestnut (Castanea crenata S. et Z., Fagaceae) inner shell (CISE) and one of its components, ellagic acid (EA), were evaluated for their protective effects against 1, 1-diphenyl-2-picryl hydrazine (DPPH) free radical generation and hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative DNA damage in a mammalian cell line. CISE and EA were shown to possess the free radical scavenging effect against DPPH radical generation, significantly. They were also found to strongly inhibit hydrogen peroxide-induced DNA damage from Chinese hamster lung (CHL) cell, assessed by single cell gel electrophoresis assay and 8-hydroxy -2'-deoxy guanosine (8-OH-2'dG) assay. Furthermore, topical application of CISE [$12.5\%$(w/w) cream] and ellagic acid [$1.0\%$(w/w) cream] for 14 days potently inhibited malondialdehyde (MDA) formation of mouse dorsal skin (a marker of lipid peroxidation) induced by ultraviolet B exposure. Therefore, CISE and its component, ellagic acid, may be the useful natural antioxidants by scavenging free radicals, inhibition of lipid peroxidation and protecting oxidative DNA damage when topically applied.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.40-59
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• 1996

Retinyl Palmitate, the skin normalzer, is useful to promote greater skin elasticity, to diminish lipid peroxidation and skin roughness following UV exposure, and promote a youthfull general skin appearance. We knew that the reduction of retinyl palmitate in W/O, W/S, O/W, MLV cream was caused by variable compound factors. Among the retinoids, we chose retinyl palmitate and studied the stability behavior of retinyl palmitate is liposomed. Furthermore, HPLC, CHROMA METERS, LASER SIGHT SCATTERING SYSTEM and FREEZE FRACTURE SCANNING ELECTROM MICROSCOPY was used to analyzing the stability and efficacy of UV and heat.