• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2014

Entering the twentieth century, corsets began to disappear with the tendency of concentrating on slim bodies and youth. As corsets proceeded to be discarded, they began to be internalized as a means of controlling the body; 'muscular corset' takes hold. However, the internalized corset increasingly appears to be externalized again in contemporary fashion. This study investigates how natural body is reconstructed as socio-cultural image drawing on the relationship between the signifier and signified of corset. As for the research methodology this study conducts literature survey to investigate the internalization of corset. This study proceeds to examine the subjects of fashion collections from 1980 to 2010 and samples the outfits which represent the externalization of corset through case analysis. Through the discussion of the study, the relationship of signifier and signified in the externalization of corset is argued as follows: first, by maintaining signifier and signified of the traditional corset as underwear, aggressive eroticism of corset has been observed, second, by perceiving corset as the agency of the body, fetishism of corset dissociates the function of sexual object from corset while distorting the relationship of signifier and signified, third, through embodying the notion of muscular corset literally, the ironical representation of corset as a torturing device of female body deconstructs the traditional relation of signifier and signified of corset.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.66-77
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• 2010

This study aimed at examining the pattern and detailed formation of corset look which has established itself as a sort of fashion look as people began to wear underwear as part of outer garment. The study tried to present basic materials helpful for developing and creating the design and pattern of corset look. First, the collected corset look of each brand was copied and then developed. According to the result, corset look's representative silhouette turned out to be hourglass silhouette that tightened up the waist with an emphasis on expressing the beauty of the body. However, unlike corsets of the past, corsets today are being created with focus on the design rather than using lots of incision lines. Second, The bust girth of corset look items turned out to have little function to compress and deform the body like the corset of the past that was far smaller than the body. In addition, the corset style that used the lines of corset alone as motive turned out to have the larger waist girth. Third, the dismantling of collected corset look showed that the materials and formation features of corset look have become simple and that the simplification of corset look has made the items of corset look everyday clothes which can be worn practically and universally.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.943-951
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the physiological effects of non-elastic corset on women's health and pain through measuring the clothing pressure, subjective pressure sensation, blood velocity and metabolism. 5 women in their twenties were picked as our subjects, their average size being 85cm at bust girth, 69 cm at waist girth. With the subjects each wearing a corset, we are testing in artificial environment with a treadmill according to the planned exercise procedures. The average pressure of the corset is 0.938 kPa (maximum 3.006 kPa at 45 degree front bowing), which is 10.2 times higher than the control group, averaging from 9.3 times higher at resting, 11.4 times at walking, 11.1 times at running. The effect of corset pressure on the physiological responses of the body is increased more when exercise than when resting. Clothing pressure increased in the order of the postures: sitting > standing with 45 degree bowing > standing. They experienced a high level of tighten discomfort of 5.6 in the scale of 1.0 to 7.0 due to the high pressure of the corset when resting, after intense exercise the level increased to 6.0, while without corset the level increased 1.7 to 2.2. With corset on, the blood circulation did not increase even though when the body exercised and blood flow became unbalanced making great gaps between both at the right and left finger tips. Perspiration of chest and back decreased 37.3% when wearing corset; 27.5% at resting, 56.7% at walking, 25.8% at running, and 39.0% at recovery. With corset on oxygen consume and metabolism increased 9.0%, 7.9%, respectively, which means the corset makes the body uncomfortable. Lung volume exchange VE decreased almost 4.1~7.3% with corset on and $VCO_2/VO_2$, RER and total volume in lung, VT also decreased too, which means the digestion of stomach and lung function are inhibited due to the high corset pressure.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.72-86
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• 2002

Recently the fashion design has been expressed mixing trend of antipodal concept. There are shown disorganization of existing standard with eclectism, pursued more sensational fashion by the sense of unease. And there are spreaded body exposure in producing on a commercial scale for sex, are shown the phenomenon by wearing innovation inner-wear in private area are exposed out. The purpose of this study are to consider preponderantly the fashion design using corset, shown up as the motive of costume design from 1990's to 2002's, define the character of molding. and extend the width of understanding of modern fashion. The results of the study are as follows: 1. The trend of deconstructionism as one line of fashion world in the 1990's make into outer garment of inner-wear, corset has been using the main item of infra costume. The past corset was existed innerwear, but it is revived various forms by transforming outer garment of body expression consciously. 2. Corset look is shown double faced factory of the beauty of tradition and decadence, vulgarity and nobility, concealment and exposure, and are expressed boldly the free consciousness outer about woman's sex with the improvement of woman's social position. 3. The molding character of Corset look divided Eroticism, Fetishism, Deconstructionism. Futurism. The trend of Corset look design is the emphasized sexual part of lace-up and cutting line of corset, and various details of see-through, kitsch, glitter look. Therefore, the trend of Corset look will be applied the modern fashion and used as motif of new design, affected the inspiration of more developed design with grafting of up-to-date fabrics and processing technique.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.152-159
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• 2003

The considerations on the costumes of the past, which have been conducted to the present for the purpose of creating a new design, are not just a simple imitation, but playing a role as a re-creation of fashion. A corset, one of the underwear items, has an important role to exaggerate, emphasize, or modify the beauty of a human body. It also contributes to form a beautiful silhouette of the outerwear. Specifically, the role of a corset today is more than a physical modification: making an underwear into an outerwear; using detailed decorations or materials of an underwear in the part of other garments. In doing these, decorative functions of costumes have been more and more emphasized. Therefore, a study on the composition or design of a corset would be an important study on the garment item that reflects fashions required by this age. The significance of the study is in its potential to provide reference materials needed in creating new underwear designs or the designs that can be made into outerwear products, by trying and producing a corset of the past. To make the corset, the definition of underwear and the characteristics of a corset were explored based on the review of the materials in the foreign museums, relevant photographs, and literature. The corset was made after understanding its minute details and examining its patterns. Pattern drawing was carried out using a Pattern CAD. As an intial phase of reproducing the corsets in the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries, the scope of the present study was limited to the late Renaissance age, when corsets began to appear.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.159-170
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• 2006

This study aims to examine the expressive properties of contemporary corset, and to develop designs and produce patterns for corset look clothes. Through these courses, it develops a pattern that may all meet the exactness, functionality and aesthetic aspects of a pattern and provides materials that may help create a corset look design in the course of actuallymaking a garment. Based on the elements mentioned above, a total of three (3) real works were developed and their patterns were created. The patterns include two (2) flat patterns and one (1) patterns using the draping method. The results found in the course of creating works and patterns are as follows: With new corset look designs, this study was able to artificially highlight the body and express the beauty of costume through revelation of the body In addition, it explored the possibility that the phenomenon that underwear becoming outerwear may be a new idea in dress designing.

• Physical Therapy Korea
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.59-66
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• 1996

The purpose of this study was to assess the biomechanical effects of corset and back brace for low back pain syndroms patients. The subjects of this study were 69 patients with low back pain syndroms who had been hospitalized or were visited out-patient department of the rehabilitation hospital, college of medicine, Yonsei University, from October 5, 1995 through November 5, 1995. Clinical results and datum were obtained by phone calls and chart reviews of low back pain patients. The results were as follows: 1) Fifty - nine subjects recovered over a good grade (85.6%). 2) The standing workers had a little effect of brace for low back pain. 3) After using a corset and back brace, the test of SLR increased from 36.23% to 72.47%, and the ability of ambulation improved from 40.57% to 85.5%. In conclusion, the biomechanical effects of corset and back brace for low back pain patients were found to be decrease pains and improve posture and ADL function.

• Physical Therapy Korea
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.23-37
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• 2002

This study examined the muscle recruitment order during extension of the hip joint in normal subjects, and evaluated whether the external support obtained from wearing a lumbosacral corset had an effect on muscle recruitment leading to increased lumbar stability. The subjects were 40 normal adults (32 male, 8 female) with no history of low back pain and no pathological findings in the nervous or musculoskeletal systems. All subjects extended their hip joints under 3 positions (prone, sidelying, standing). During extension, the onsets of contraction of the rectus abdominis, gluteus maximus, and semitendinosus muscles were measured. Electromyographic activity was measured using a surface electrode, and the muscle contraction onset time was designated as the point exceeding a threshold of 25 ms, using a mean plus twice of the standard deviation. To compare the average order of muscle contraction onset time, a Freedman two-way analysis of variance by ranks was used. The relative difference between muscle contraction onset time wearing and not wearing a lumbosacral corset was measured using a paired t-test. A difference in the average muscle contraction onset order for the rectus abdominis, gluteus maximus, and semitendinosus muscles was observed (p<.05) among three positions. However, wearing a lumbosacral corset did not. change the contraction order. In addition, wearing a lumbosacral corset produced a significant difference (p<.05) in the relative onset time between the rectus abdominis and gluteus maximus in the standing position, but no difference was observed for the other muscles or positions. In the future, patients suffering from low back pain should be compared with normal subjects to determine the effectiveness of a lumbosacral corset in changing muscle recruitment order.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.8
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• pp.48-59
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• 2007

The purpose of this research is to develop a basic pattern of corset look taking into consideration characteristics of human body and fit, by transforming 3 dimensional information obtained from draping of standard body type of women in their 20s, which constitute the biggest consumer group of corset look in Korea, on the basis of body shape of women best reflecting 3 dimensional characteristics. In order to develop a corset look pattern suitable for standard body type of women in their 20s, wear tests of A, B, and C types of patterns in terms of the bust in the standard body type that bust circumference 86.7cm and chest circumference 87.0cm were evaluated best. Taking into consideration above findings, fer the purpose of developing a corset look pattern having an excellent fit and reflecting characteristics of Korean women in their 20s with standard body type, a corset look pattern was designed with proper ease calculated by draping incorporated, and through alteration and complementation of such a pattern, a study pattern was produced. This study is expected to provide tips for standard body type women in their 20s with smaller bust circumference to choose clothing allowing for a better fit able to make up for weakness of their body, while presenting to clothing makers ways of designing and size-setting in terms of characteristics of body type of these consumers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.471-487
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to analyze changes to body measurements and silhouettes after wearing an early 19th century women's corset. Two types of corsets were tested. Changes in body size and silhouette were compared based on the levels of tightening strength of the corset. The tightening strength was adjusted in 4 steps by making the length of back fastening string 10-40 cm shorter than the standard. The silhouette was compared with the front silhouette and the side silhouette. The results were as follows. After wearing the experimental 19th century corsets, the chest circumference and front interscye length increased. However, the chest circumference did not increase proportionally to the tightening strength. The underbust circumference, waist circumference, and back interscye length also decreased. The waist width was decreased to create a slim front silhouette. The change in the body silhouette differed depending on the style of the experimental corset. The experimental corset made with the six-piece torso pattern changed the posture so that the shoulders were pulled back and the chest was pushed forward. The experimental corset with the side bodice pattern resulted in the subject's shoulders reclining backward and the chest and abdomen extending forward. The results of this study show that women's body sizes and silhouettes could be changed by wearing the early 19th century corsets, but the changes in body size and silhouette vary depending on the wearer's individual body type or corset style.