• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.14 no.1
• /
• pp.127-136
• /
• 2011

The objectives of this study were to investigate the effects of color characteristics on tactile sensation / sensibility image of silk fabrics and to provide prediction models for their tactile sensation/sensibility image by both mechanical properties and color characteristics. As results, some of tactile sensation/sensibility terms including 'smooth', 'buoyant', 'thick', 'stiff', 'unique', 'casual', 'rural', and 'modern' seemed to be influenced by color characteristics such as achromatic/chromatic and hue / tone as well as by mechanical properties of silk. Moreover, red or green silk was more strongly felt than gray ones for 'thick' and 'stiff' as well as pale or vivid was. On the other hands, 'Rural' and 'casual' were respectively evaluated more highly for green, pale, or vivid silk. These results imply that color could give an effect on subjective tactile sensation / sensibility. Finally, prediction models for some of tactile sensation / sensibility of silk fabrics by both mechanical properties and color characteristics were established.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.23-32
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to research fabrics, colors, and arrangement of color in Jogak-bo which were developed during the late Chosun dynasty. It is expected that from the analysis of the number, distribution and arrangement of colors of Jogak-bo in the late Chosun we can suggest various color arrangements thoset can be applied to modern fashion are summarized as follows. First, as for the number of colors of Jogak-bo according to material, silk fabrics Jogak-bo used a variety of colors whereas hemp fabrics Jogak-bo mostly used one color showing contrast between silk fabrics Jogak-bo and hemp fabrics ones. Second, as for the distribution of colors of silk Jogak-bo and hemp fabrics ones, warm colors were used most frequently. On the other hand, fewer achromatic colors were used to silk fabrics Jogak-bo, and they were more applied to hemp fabrics Jogak-bo. As for the use of cold colors, fewer cold colors were applied to hemp fabrics Jogak-bo compared to silk fabrics Jogak-bo. Third, as for the arrangement of colors, various colors were used in silk fabrics Jogak-bo, but a single color or not more than 1 color was applied to hemp fabrics Jogak-bo. It well demonstrates brilliance and glamour of silk Jogak-bo and stability and unity of hemp fabrics Jogak-bo. As for the arrangement of colors of Jogak-bo, most of Jogak-bo showed contrasting colors and shades, and similar colors and shades were hardly found in silk fabrics Jogak-bo whereas they were frequently found in hemp fabrics Jogak-bo.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.11 no.6
• /
• pp.43-50
• /
• 1999

Lichen had been used as dyestuffs before the discovery of synthetic dyes in Europe and by American Indians. To investigate the dyeability of Korean native lichens, 10 kinds of lichen were collected and colorants were extracted from them by boiling in water and fermenting in ammonia water. Silk fabrics were dyed with lichen extract, then the colour differences of dyed silk fabrics were measured before and after color fastness test. The most part of the lichen extracts(Fc, Hh, Me, Pl, Xm, Pr, Cj, Ld, Ry) dyed silk yellowish or reddish brown. The range of colors were 2.4Y 6.5∼10YR 6/7. Pa extract dyed silk purple(1.25RP 5/6). Color differences of laundered specimen with the silk before laundering were very small, but color of the dyed silks after exposing to light showed big differences with the specimen before exposing to light. The colors of the silks dyed with lichens changed from yellowish or reddish brown to greenish brown by laundering and by exposing to light. But the specimen dyed Pa extract changed from purple to blueish purple by laundering and reddish purple by exposing to light.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.25 no.2
• /
• pp.268-274
• /
• 2001

Dyeing properties of the colorants extracted from pomegranate hull on silk fabric were investigated. Pomegranate colorants were characterized by FT-IR analysis. Effects of dyeing condition and mordanting on dye uptake, color change and colorfastness were explored. Pomegranate colorants showed high affinity to silk fiber and its isotherm adsorption curve was Langmuir type. Therefore, ionic bond was involved in the adsorption of pomegranate colorants on to silk fiber. Mordants except Fe did not significantly increase dye adsorption. Pomegranate colorants produced mainly yellow color on silk fabric, but the silk mordanted with Fe showed yellow red color. Fastness to washing, perspiration, and rubbing was not improved by mordanting treatment, but light colorfastness was increased by Fe mordant.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.1
• /
• pp.9-16
• /
• 2008

Six of the Imdang tombs containing remains with imprints of ancient fabrics and textiles were investigated. Within the tombs, a total of 120 pieces of imprinted fabrics and textiles were investigated, all of which belongs to $5{\sim}6C$ Shilla period. All of the hemp textiles examined exhibited similar characteristics found in ancient hemp textiles: they were woven by plain weave technique with s-twist threads. The examined silk could be categorized into plain woven silk, cho, and double woven brocade, all of them made with non-twisted threads and degummed silk. The density of the plain woven silk ranged from 39 threads to 144 threads. Cho was also found, which showed similar characteristics to those of Gaya and Bakjae tombs. One piece of 2/1 twill weave on plain ground and 12 pieces of double woven brocade were found and their average density was $97.4{\times}33.4/cm$ with denser warp than weft. The various thickness of the threads were observed in the examined plain braid. The silk with twining technique showed thicker warp than weft. This is similar to the techniques of fabrics found in the King Muryeoung's Tomb of the Bakjae period. Fabrics with the purple-like color were observed in the some of the double woven brocades and also on the plain woven silk imprinted on the remains. The purple-like color was revealed to be purple with a tint of violet. The two tombs from which the imprinted fabrics with purple-like color were found belonged to top-class social level of the Shilla period, which informs that the purple color was used exclusively for the people of higher social status. The floss silk was found between the double woven brocade and plain woven silk of the belt, which is an important evidence that the floss silk was used for stuffing in the early 6th century.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.24 no.5
• /
• pp.577-587
• /
• 2016

Natural dye extracted from Salicornia bigelovii was applied to silk fabrics by dip dyeing process. The dyeing properties and the functionalities of the silk fabrics were determined. Factors affecting the dyeing properties such as dyestuff concentration, temperature, time and pH were studied. The colorimetric parameters $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and H, V/C values were measured to select the optimal mordanting conditions. The color-fastnesses of the dyed and mordanted fabrics were estimated for practical use; in addition, the antibacterial property, ultraviolet protection properties were evaluated. The dyeabilities of silk increased depending on the increasing dye concentration, dyeing time, and dyeing temperature. And optimum dyeing results were achieved when dyeing with 300% (o.w.f.) of dye concentration at $90^{\circ}C$ for 100 minutes and at pH 3. The dyed silk fabrics without mordants produced yellow (Y) color and showed yellow (Y) or green yellow (GY) colors depending on the mordants type. The light fastness of dyed and Al mordanted silk fabrics were found to be excellent, and the drycleaning and rubbing fastness were good. The dyed silk fabrics showed no antibacterial property, but Al and Cu mordanted silk fabrics showed 99.9% reduction rate. The ultraviolet protection properties of the dyed silk fabric was improved. And the ultraviolet protection properties of mordanted samples showed very good ultraviolet protection properties.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.29 no.4
• /
• pp.276-283
• /
• 2017

The aim of this study is to develop an effective dyeing process for black color on the silk fabrics, using natural Indigo, Madder, Amur cork tree, Alder, Logwood, and Gallnut. All natural dye materials were water-extracted, concentrated, and freeze-dried. Seven different processes were carried out and the color differences(${\Delta}E$) of black color with each process from the chemical black dyed fabric were compared. The light, washing, and rubbing fastness were evaluated. The black dyeing of the silk fabrics was well carried and excellent black color was obtained in every methods. The profound black color could be obtained by the subtractive mixture of the three primary colors of red, yellow, and blue in the order of indigo(blue) - amur cork tree(yellow) - madder or lac(red). Black color was efficiently obtained by iron mordant when logwood or alder fruit was used. The color difference(${\Delta}E$) from the black color with chemical dyestuff was the lowest in the indigo - amur cork tree - lac - iron method. Light fastness and washing fastness were excellent in all dyeing processes, showing grade 5. The fastness to rubbing was excellent as shown grade 5 in the dry samples of logwood - iron process and alder fruit - iron process.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.4 no.1
• /
• pp.73-84
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the natural dyeability on extract of Aloe Vera princeps. The experimental items were divided into the mordanting method, component of fabric, extracting portion, and kind of mordants. The experimental study was done to by laundering, abrasion(dry/wet), perspiration(acid/alkali), light fastness test and color difference by C.C.M system. The summerized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows: First, in the C.C.M test on mordanting method, color difference was significantly improved when mordants were treatmented. And the premordanting method showed the highest color difference. Second, in the C.C.M test on component of fabric, color difference of silk was higher than cotton. It was considered that silk has -$\NH_2$, -COOH, -OH more than cotton. Third, in the C.C.M Test on extracting portion, color difference of extracting in skin of Aloe leaf was three times higher than that of inside lump. Forth, in dyeing-fastness on mordants, laundering fastness showed 3 ~ 4 grade nearly. In perspiration-fastness(acid/alkali), Al(4~5/4~5) was the highest. In abrasion-fastness(dry/wet), cotton(4~5/4~5) was higher than silk (4~5/4) in all mordants. In light-fastness, silk(2~5) was higher than cotton(1~2) generally and especially Cu mordant of silk(4~5) was the highest. Sixth, in color difference analysis on 7 mordants Cu(29.9), Fe(28.7) and Cr(28.9) showed the highest in silk. And Cu(12.7), Fe(10.42) and Sn(10.43) showed the highest in cotton and Al(23.6, 8.0) showed the lowest in silk and cotton.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.21 no.3
• /
• pp.10-18
• /
• 2009

Dyeing process of the natural indigo powder onto ramie and silk fabrics was investigated by using glucose and calcium hydroxide as a reducing system. Effect of reduction and dyeing conditions such as temperature and time of reduction/dyeing, and concentrations of glucose and calcium hydroxide on the dyeing process were explored. Indigo powder was obtained by drying the conventional niram paste in an oven at $50^{\circ}C$. Color strength of the dyed fabrics was evaluated by K/S value measured at the wavelength of maximum absorption(${\lamda}$max). Munsell color coordinates(H V/C) were used to compare fabric colors of ramie and silk. Ramie fabric showed purple-blue color for all the temperature and time. On the contrary, silk fabric showed wide range of color including brown, brown-green, green at the different temperature. With the increase of K/S value, the coordinate of value(lightness) decreased for both of ramie and silk fabrics. The coordinate of hue(shade) changed drastically with the increase of K/S value for silk fabric, compared with that of ramie fabric which showed nearly constant value at the whole range of K/S value. Optimum concentrations of calcium hydroxide were for 6 g/L for ramie and 4 g/L for silk at $60^{\circ}C$ and 50 min. K/S value increased with the indigo concentration. Maximum K/S value was shown at $10{\sim}12$ g/L of glucose concentration. For both of ramie and silk fabrics, the colorfastness of washing and light was lower than that of rubbing. All the colorfastness values were improved with the increase of color strength.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.27 no.5
• /
• pp.517-523
• /
• 2003

We studied the physical properties of silk fabrics after degumming, the dyeability and the color fastness of silk fabrics after degumming and sericin fixing. As the sericin was removed from silk fabrics, the rate of weight loss increased and both the abrasion resistance and the drape coefficient decreased. This means that the amount of the sericin remained in silk fabrics significantly affects the physical properties of silk fabrics. On the surface and the cross-section of silk fabrics, the silk fibers enclosed by the sericin seemed to be in a lump shape. Each fibroin strand, however, got scattered, as the process of degumming went through. The dyeability of silk fabrics degummed decreased at between 20$^{\circ}C$∼80$^{\circ}C$ the dyeing temperature, on the other hand, it significantly increased over 80$^{\circ}C$. The dyeability of the sericin-fixed silk fabrics was lower than that of the non-serin-fixed silk fabrics, to a little extent. The colorfastness of crocking in the dyed-silk fabrics was a little low and that of the sweat was much lower in a basic sweat. Especially, the colorfastness of the partially degummed silk fabrics was low, because the sericin was not stable in the condition of sweat. Therefore, the process of sericin fixing is essentially required, for the partially degummed silk fabrics and the process of degumming itself.