• SUVANNABHUMI
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.123-144
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• 2017

The changing of clothes in Balagtas' 1860 fictional comedy La filipina elegante y negrito amante (The Elegant Filipina and the Amorous Negrito) is used to explore the ethnic, cultural, and sartorial diversity in 19^th century colonial Philippines. But, how does plurality in men's clothing reflect the socio-economic conditions of the late Spanish colonial period? This paper focuses on the diversity in Philippine men's clothing around 1850 to 1896, taking into account the limited range of colonial archetypes in iconographic and documentary sources. Underscoring the colonial culture that shaped mentalities and tendencies, this study offers insights on how clothing was used and how it was perceived in relation to the wearer. In discussing clothing diversity, distinctiveness was articulated using the work of J.A.B. Wiselius (1875), a Dutch colonial administrator in neighboring Indonesia, who in comparing Spanish and Dutch systems of colonial governance, underscored the Filipino penchant for imitation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.114-130
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to reveal the cultural meaning behind modern experiences of diversity through the history of clothing in Korea. To this end, this study examines aspects that dictate clothing culture acceptance experienced and practiced by women by analyzing the case of the Naju rural area in Jeollanam-do from the 1950s to 1980s. Modern clothing was accepted later in the 20 century in this village, and the Satgolnai traditional textile tradition was an important factor after 1950s. In addition, the continuity of the rural five-day market is different from practices in the city. Limitations in access to media such as TV, films, and magazines, and the functional meaning of clothing in rural areas contributed to limitations for women to get the opportunity to access modern clothing items that were popular in the city. Unlike in the city, the event that inspired the transition to full-scale modern clothing in this village was the Saemaul Undong Movement of the 1970s. Additionally, Mombbe (labor cloth) worn during the Japanese colonial period was continuously worn as daily clothes for Naju women even after the 1950s. Therefore, colonial modernity continued through clothing.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.15-33
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• 2011

The late $19^{th}$ and early $20^{th}$ centuries of Korea were the times when the Confucianism (牲理學) ideology was shaken heavily under the influences of modernism and capitalism by Western and Japanese military and political-economic forces. Under such circumstances, alteration of clothing was much influenced by ideologies than changes in social structure or technological advance. In this study, an ideology was defined as "the force which drives people into a particular social order". Ideologies were postulated as an ongoing process of socialization with dialectic features rather than being a static state. Comparative analyses on conflict structures and different clothing patterns symbolizing the ideologies of the Ruling (支配) and the Opposition (對抗) were conducted. Investigating dresses as representations of ideologies is to reconsider the notion of dichotomous confrontation between the conservatives (守舊派) and the progressives (開化派) and a recognition of Koreans' passively accepting modernity during the Japanese occupation. This may also have contributed to enlightening Koreans about modernization. Here are the results. First, the theoretical review found that ideologies were represented by not only symbols of discourse, but also dresses, and that dresses embodied both physical and conceptual systems presenting differences between ideologies and their natures, Second, during the late 19th century Korea, conflict between conservatives' Hanbok (韓服) and progressives' Western suits (洋服) was found. Moderate progressives showed their identity by "Colored Clothing" (深色衣), and radical progressives by black suits with short hair (黑衣斷髮) or by western suits (洋服). The ultimate goal of both parties was a "Modern Nation". With these efforts, pale jade green coats and traditional hats symbolizing the nobleman class was eliminated within 30 years from 1880 to 1910, and then simple robes and short hair emerged. However, the powerful Japanese army had taken over the hegemony of East Asia, and Korea was sharply divided into modernization and pro-Japanese camps. Third, during the time of Japanese colonial rule, the dress codes having set by the modernization policies during the time of enlightenment were abandoned and colonial uniforms for the colonial system was meticulously introduced. During this period, Western or Japanese-style uniforms were the symbol of the ruling ideology. In the mean time, Hanbok, particularly "White Clothing (白衣)", emerged as a representation of the opposition ideology. However, due to Japan's coercive power and strong zeal for "Great orient (大東亞)", white clothing remained as a mere symbol. Meanwhile, Reformists (實力養成論者) movement toward improving quality of life followed a similar path of the Japanese policies and was eventually incorporated into the ruling ideology. Fourth, dresses as representations of ruling ideologies were enforced by organizational powers, such as organizations and laws, and binding policies, and changes in such dresses were more significant when the ruling ideologies were stronger. Clothing of the opposition ideology was expressed as an aggregation of public consciousness. During the period, the subjects of ruling ideology and the objects who were granted modernization benefits were different although their drives for colored clothing with short hair (色衣斷髮) for modernization were similar.

• Proceedings of KHEA Conference
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• 1997.07a
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• pp.274-274
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• 1997

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.33-50
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• 2014

Investigations on the symbolic role, spiritual health benefits and efficacy of the clothing items of the Ga wolomo (chief priest) have received little attention. Highlighting the relevance of these clothes, this paper focuses on the chief priest's dress code for his appointment, confinement, ordination, ceremonial and daily life activities. Data were collected through content analysis, participant observation and interviews with people from selected Ga communities, such as La, Teshie and Ga Mashie. The findings revealed that the selection of the chief priest is confirmed with a special clothing item. His traditional clothes and adornment also have meanings, importance and symbolic interpretations; explained in their uses, colour and style. As the spiritual head, the role of the chief priest's costume is very distinguished and symbolic in executing his duties; protecting, strengthening faith, confidence and assurance during spiritual healing, and when solving pertinent problems in the community. The paper concludes by recommending further research and documentation on other aspects of the Ga clothing culture, such as hand items and hair styles from the pre-colonial period to the present.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.87-101
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• 2015

From the 1920s to 1945, East Asia experienced radical social change with the introduction of new fashion styles, and new ways of thinking, from the West. The emergence of a new generation of "new women" educated in modern schools was part of this phenomenon, and functioned as a trend-setting influence in East Asian society. In schools, education in dressmaking, sewing, and home economics were important parts of female education. Adopting a new fashion style is, by necessity, accompanied by the new technology of dressmaking. Given that ready-made clothing was not generally available, dressmaking education also served to introduce a new material culture. In Korea and Taiwan under Japanese colonization, the greater part of school curricula and textbooks mirrored those in Japan, which enabled these countries to develop and adopt transnational styles as well as local styles. This research explores the transition of women's fashion in East Asia in modern and colonial conditions from the 1920s to the 1940s by analysing curricula and textbooks on dressmaking in comparison with the prevailing styles in each region. This is expected to suggest the impact of modernity in East Asia and the transnational styles of fashion in colonial Korea and Taiwan, as well as Japan, developed within the local culture. Colonial conditions are also discussed in terms of their impact and limitations in the transition of styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.53-66
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• 2012

This study analyzed the fabrics of Chima, Jeogori of the 20th century. It was based on Kyungwoon Museum relics, newspaper articles and photographs. This research focused on the transition process that has been organized into three stages. The first stage is from the opening of a port to the colonial period in Korea. By this time, the casual wear Hanbok was made with the traditional cotton and woolen textiles in addition to quite a lot of upscale clothing textiles. Stage two is from 1970s to the period after the liberation and Western Costumes represent the time of when the suit was mixed. At the time of the war, due to social and economic difficulties, convenience and practicality were emphasized rather than focusing on aesthetic characteristics. Third period is from the 1980s to the 1990s when the Hanbok was no longer considered a casual wear. Instead, its high quality and elegance redefined it to be a formal wear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.7
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• pp.1-16
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• 2009

This study is on the children's clothing in Seoul Gyeonggi-do, Chungcheong-do and Gangwon-do between the $1920s{\sim}1950s$, by comparing positive data collected from pictures and literatures, remains and interviews. A baenaet jeogori was made of soft white cotton fabrics and was used as a charm when the baby had grown and had an test or a big occasion. A dureong chima and pungcha trousers were clothes for both boys and girls from their birth to the age of $4{\sim}5$ when they could have bowel movements by themselves. Occasions for celebrating a baby's growth were the one-hundredth day and the first birthday. In general, ordinary families had their babies' one-hundredth day in a simple way without special clothes. On the first birthday, however, even ordinary families prepared new clothes for their babies, and read their fortune and prayed for their well being and long life through events such as doljabi. In the age when medicine was poor and the infant mortality was high, the meaning of such a ceremony was to congratulate on the baby's safe growth through dangerous moments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.270-279
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to make a basic resource in developing a design satisfying male consumers＇ fashion inclination by examining the features of the men＇s fashion style shown in the fashion collections. Collected were 1,291 photos relating to the suit style through the analysis on the men＇s fashion collections for 8 years(1995-2002). Representative men＇s fashion images are extracted from these photos, then figurative features were analyzed and typified according to image, and finally representative fashion styles were presented and its meaning was analyzed. Representative men＇s fashion images are Sophisticated, Casual, Elegant, Active, Natural, Classic, Romantic, Ethnic, Military, Marine, Colonial, and Avant-garde. With the subcategories such as detailed shape of jacket and trousers, the relationship of color between upper and lower clothes, type and organizing method of material quality, type and arranging method of pattern, and coordination, the extracted fashion images were analyzed the figurative features. After finding out the common and different features, four men＇s fashion styles were suggested. Formal style maintains the typical suit style and has the feature expressing the men＇s authority, tradition, and honor. It includes Sophisticated, Elegant. and Classic image. Casual St Sporty style has the feature that there is a change in the volume of suit by adding activity to the typical suit style. It includes Casual, Active, and Natural image. Uniformed style is that political and social environment such as war has an influence on the suit design. It includes Military, Marine, and Colonial image. Deformed style has the feature that it suggests new type instead of adhering to the typical suit design. It includes Ethnic, Romantic, and Avant-garde image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.224-241
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• 2017

This study considered the change process for Western style shoes in Korea during the time of modernization in the 1920s to 1930s. Western style shoes were one of the items imported by foreigners since the Joseon Dynasty and had a significant impact on Korean dress code. It influence started to spread in the 1900s; however, few high level people wore Western shoes until the 1920s. The trend started to spread through newspaper advertisements and news articles after the mid 1920s. Western shoes such as modern girl and modern boy in the 1930s then entered into Korean culture. Korea under Japanese colonial rule was reorganized on a war footing in the latter half of the 1930s and the main materials for western shoes (cow leather, horse leather and sheepskin) were mobilized as materials for war production; subsequently, new materials using rubber were introduced. The representative material is 'Marine Leather (水産皮革)' and Sharkskin 'Gyoheok (鮫革)' and Whaleskin 'Gyeongpi (鯨皮).' Form is like the material has changed over time. This study also observed the flow of westernized Korean modern shoes as well as analyzed the details of materials and shape of western shoes by period. This represent basic materials to understand the legacy of western shoes in the age; in addition, systemic summary is organized by each kind, shape and materials for each style of western shoes.