• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권4호
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• pp.421-430
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• 2011

This study suggests the proper collar laying amount to be actively used in the clothing industry by identifying the characteristics of collar and other related components according to the collar laying amount. This study comparatively analyzed the characteristics of each collar laying amount (2cm, 2.5cm, 3cm, 3.5cm, 4cm, and 4.5cm) after making 6 tailored jackets. The results are as follows: 1. The best shape of collar and lapel appeared when the collar laying amount was 3cm and 3.5cm. 2. Depending on the collar laying amount, the shape of collar, roll line form of collar and lapel, collar width, collar stand, the position and width of roll line changed. As the collar laying amount increased, the length of collar edge became longer, and the collar stand decreased. In case the collar laying amount was small (2cm, 2.5cm), the width of collar and lapel became narrower. On the contrary, when it is large (4cm, 4.5cm), the width of collar and lapel became wider. 3. Collar laying amount as well as the length of the neck line of collar affected the shape of the collar roll line around the neck.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권3호
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• pp.211-218
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• 2001

In this paper, various shapes of collar of the casual Korean dress at present are analyzed and are also surveyed the origins from which such designs are derived. Collars of the casual Korean dress are to be classified into Round-collar, Mokpan-collar, Dangco-collar, Knife-collar, Baja-collar, Danryoung-transfer-collar, Double-collar, Transfer-collar, and so on. Round-collar, Mokpan-collar, Dangco-collar, Knife-collar, Baja-collar, Danryoung-transfer-collar, Double-collar, Transfer-collar are motivated from the classical types of collar during the dynasty of the Choxian and adopted without any modifications. However, modifications to meet modern sense with the basic motif on the classical types of collar are applied to Transfer-collar where all kinds of collar shapes since ancient times are referred for modifications. In addition, collars such as Double-collar, Hi-neck-collar, which are not found in the classical Korean dress, could be said to be created only for the casual Korean dress From the above, it could be seen that most collars of the casual Korean dress are based on the shapes of the classical Korean dress. Therefore, it could be also confirmed that the casual Korean dress design has its identity originated from the classical Korean dress since the ancient times.

• 복식
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• 제6권
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• pp.105-119
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• 1982

This thesis is mainly about the changes of Garment's collar(옷깃) and outer collar (옷섶) which indicate the identification of dress history. Through the observations of some reports about important folk materials and genuine objects, the author has investigated and rearranged them focusing on Yi-Dynasty. (1400-1900) For the shape of the outer lapels(겉깃) of Korean Jacket(저고리) were used together Squar-Tray-Collar(목판깃), Sharped-Collar(칼깃), and Dang ko-Collar(당코깃) and coming to the end of inner lapels(안깃) formed squar-tray-collar. Squar-tray-collar and sharped-collar were mainly used together for the shape of the outer lapels of Korean overcoat(포). Dang ko-collar was seen only in two overcoat. Coming to the 18th centry, the outer lapels became round-edged like those of jackets, while the inner lapels formed squar-tray-collar. In the process of positional changes of the collar and outer collar of Korean jacket and overcoat, the outer lapels positioned outside the outer collar, or a part of width of collar's positioned upon the outer collar, or the whole outer lapels positioned inside the outer collar. And through these changes the current position of the outer lapels became settled in the end of the 19th centry. But the inner lapels did not undergo many changes compared with the outer ones, and their position was mainly outside the outer collar like those of current lapels. And the garment's collar and outer collar of jacket and overcoat became small while the width and length of breast-tie(고름) became large.

• 복식
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• 제5권
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• pp.185-196
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• 1981

This study concerns Jeugo-ris' collar patterns according to the pictures of the actual measurement of the bequests in Yi dynasty. In early Yi dynasty not only outside collar but also inside collar was the Mog-pan collar. In middle Yi dynasty many Jeugo-ris' bequests has been discovered. The form of the collar was various In before and after the 1590's, the Mog-pan collar and Kal-collar, Dang-ko callar was coexisted. But after the 1700's Jeugo-ris' collar pattern was fixed to the Dang-ko collar. In early and middle Yi dynasty the width of the collar was three or four times as wide as it on these days. In late Yi dynasty the inside collar length was longer than the outside collar length and the width of the collar was gradually narrow. The same thing as the form of the collar on these days had been appeared from the 1900's.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제39권6호
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• pp.826-837
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• 2015

This study analyzes the shapes of the adjustment of a Napoleon Collar which combines a stand collar with an upper collar. It established experimental conditions for fixing the conditions of Napoleon Collar components (lapel width, stand collar size and upper collar size) as well as varied the shape of the neckline, the length of the curve of a stand collar and the size of the drawing space at the center back. It produced 22 test clothes of muslin, which were dressed on dress form No. 8. The results indicate that: 1. Neckline shape determines the amount of stand and fall. Less curved neckline stands higher against the neck and a more curved neckline is laid lower onto the body. 2. A shorter curve length of a stand collar allows a longer roll line to fall farther away from the neck with more space between the neck and collar. However, the longer the depth of curve of a stand collar creates a shorter roll line that stands high against neck and closer to neck without any space between the neck and collar with a collar line matching the neck of the dress form. 3. The smaller the drawing space at the center back creates a shorter the style line of the upper collar. However, a narrower back width of the collar creates a bigger drawing space at the center back with a longer the style line and a more naturally placed back width of the collar. 4. A Napoleon Collar creates a longer depth of curve for a stand collar and a smaller drawing space at the center back that is tightly and stably stuck to the neck.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.1228-1241
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• 2010

This study aims to help understanding on design of basic pattern of shirt collars and to suggest schemes to raise completeness of shape by reviewing problems shown in finished products after sewing. From March 2009 to August 2009, 12 patterns for education and firms were collected centering on basic shirt collar form respectively. There are four problems generally raised from a completed shirt collar. In case of overlapping shirt collar on front neck point, the sewing point of shirt collar should be drawn at front neck point of collar band at a distance of about 0.2~0.3cm, and the center front of band and one of bodice should be arranged in a straight line. In case of the problem about right and left length difference of shirt collar, it is raised by closing so the problem was solved by prolonging about 0.2 cm of the center front of left collar. It was evaluated that adjusting notch point when sewing would be more rational solution than solving something on patterns for distance difference problem of shirt collar between right and left part at center front. And a problem about getting loose of front garment between collar band below and the first button was also raised. It was designed 0.2cm cut of collar band. Around basic shirt collar form, above mentioned solutions are applied to the patterns for education and manufacture experimental clothing. So as a result of sensory evaluation, generally good ratings on all items were received.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.227-234
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to investigate how the Post-modernism social cultural pattern has been reflected in collar of costume. In the classes social, collar in costume is the expressive medium of ideology and status symbol such as Passium of ancian Ezypt and Byzantin collar which is examined religion belif. The conspicuous function of collar can be examed as the ruff collar, which is the expressive medium of self-confidence, but the whisk collar and the flat collar means decline the authorized conspicous function. In the cultural pattern of Post-modernism, collar in costume presents the coexistence of double-sides value such as androgyny, dividinism and eclecticism. For example, the tailored collar or shirt collar in women's suit with delicate materials express the self-confidence, energy and intelligence, and the round collar or the draped collar in men's suit with rough material express the sensibility and liberty. In the deconstructivity through breaking the basis form of the collar, callar can be transformed in to sleeve, cape or hat on occasion. In conclusion, the function of collar changes by the cultural pattern and expresses the spirit.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.37-44
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• 2009

As the modern society has become highly industrialized and functionalized, the entry of women in public affairs has become brisk and extensive, and the studies of jackets which can satisfy the functions and designs for various activities have become important. Especially in the tailored collar which is the typical collar for female jackets, the studies such as scientific original form design, and design evaluation through analyzing functionality and sensitivity and others must be systematically carried out. In this study, therefore, the objective was placed in examining the actual state of the production of the tailored collar in the field of production first, and inquiring the general theories on the constituent elements of tailored-collar and production methods by analyzing it and comparing it with the educational tailored-collar production methods. First, in regard to the relation between the collar and the length of the backside neck of the bodice, in most cases, they were employing the method to enlarge the length of the backside neck of the bodice by shortening the length of the neck-base girth. That is, they were processing in order that the self collar band inside of the roll line and the fall of the collar can make a soft curved line. Second, when producing tailored-collar patterns, it is desirable to very the inclination according to the breath of the collar or thickness of the fabric because the stability of the inclination of the collar differs depending on the condition the collar is set, the girth of the collar edge. the broader the breath of the collar becomes, the thicker the fabric becomes, and the more the cloth is against the cold, it is necessary to make the inclination larger. Third, in the size relation between the upper collar and under collar, when sewing collars, it becomes thick and stabilized as it goes from the part in which extra pieces were put to the part in which extra pieces are not put. So you must make the upper collar larger by putting in extra pieces. The amount to be put in differs depending on characteristics of the materials.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권5호
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• pp.640-650
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• 2023

This study aimed to suggest a suitable collar pattern by visually evaluating the appearance of the amount of collar drape by the starting position of the lapel line of a double-breasted tailored jacket using a 3d virtual fitting program. It created an avatar based on the mean size of women in their 20s (the 8th Size Korea) using clo network (double fastening: 10cm, collar width: 4.5cm, collar stand: 3cm, and lapel width: 8.5cm). The starting of the lapel twist line was waistline level, the 1/2 level of bustline and waistline, or bustline level, and collar laying amount was 4.5, 5.5, 6.5, or 7.5cm. It was evaluated by garment construction experts using 5, 6, and 4 items on the front, sides, and back, respectively. Descriptive statistics, F-test, Duncan-test, and reliability analysis were conducted using SPSS 22. When collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. Under waist line, when collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. When collar laying amount was large, the collar's outline length increased, resulting in unnecessary wrinkles from the neckline to the lapel, affecting the overall collar appearance. When collar laying amount was the smallest, the collar was lifted and the width was narrowed, exposing the seam connecting the collar and neckline. The length of the collar's outline varied depending on collar laying amount, which was important to make the outline sit comfortably on the body.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.143-159
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• 2005

This study was done to provide basic data for clothing design and thus to contribute to the academic development at the clothing and textile area and collar roll line lay down angle variation at collar width on the open collar. The study was composed as tallows: 1. The variation at collar outer wall size increase collar roll line lay down angle size the more Increase. 2. The outer wall and stand height size increase aware at variation collar width at the more Increase. It is desirable that this study will be at help to enchancement of life style in garments and promotion of garments industury by developing the archetype basic collar pattern suitable to Korean women's garments.