• 제목/요약/키워드: collar edge

검색결과 23건 처리시간 0.022초

테일러드 칼라의 생산업체용 패턴과 교육용 패턴의 비교연구 (Comparative study of productive pattern and educational pattern of tailored-collar)

  • 신장희;손희순
    • 패션비즈니스
    • /
    • 제13권5호
    • /
    • pp.37-44
    • /
    • 2009
  • As the modern society has become highly industrialized and functionalized, the entry of women in public affairs has become brisk and extensive, and the studies of jackets which can satisfy the functions and designs for various activities have become important. Especially in the tailored collar which is the typical collar for female jackets, the studies such as scientific original form design, and design evaluation through analyzing functionality and sensitivity and others must be systematically carried out. In this study, therefore, the objective was placed in examining the actual state of the production of the tailored collar in the field of production first, and inquiring the general theories on the constituent elements of tailored-collar and production methods by analyzing it and comparing it with the educational tailored-collar production methods. First, in regard to the relation between the collar and the length of the backside neck of the bodice, in most cases, they were employing the method to enlarge the length of the backside neck of the bodice by shortening the length of the neck-base girth. That is, they were processing in order that the self collar band inside of the roll line and the fall of the collar can make a soft curved line. Second, when producing tailored-collar patterns, it is desirable to very the inclination according to the breath of the collar or thickness of the fabric because the stability of the inclination of the collar differs depending on the condition the collar is set, the girth of the collar edge. the broader the breath of the collar becomes, the thicker the fabric becomes, and the more the cloth is against the cold, it is necessary to make the inclination larger. Third, in the size relation between the upper collar and under collar, when sewing collars, it becomes thick and stabilized as it goes from the part in which extra pieces were put to the part in which extra pieces are not put. So you must make the upper collar larger by putting in extra pieces. The amount to be put in differs depending on characteristics of the materials.

여성복 테일러드 재킷의 칼라제작요인에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Collar Construction Factors of the Women's Tailored Jacket)

  • 김구영;김여숙
    • 한국의류산업학회지
    • /
    • 제10권6호
    • /
    • pp.947-954
    • /
    • 2008
  • The purpose of this research is to find out related factors to obtain the best collar pattern of the women's tailored jacket by analyzing the difference of the shapes between the drafted pattern and that of being stitched. The experimental conditions established are as follows. The position and angle of its break point, the notch and the width of the collar and lapel are kept unchanged. The collar decrease in neckline edge and the top collar larger than the under collar. The crossing point of gorge line is changed to make the collar's roll line straight. When the pattern is changed to make the outline of the lapel straight, the amount of cloth is changed too. According to the experimental conditions, The experimental clothes using muslin were made to. put on the manikin and the suitable methods of making the collar pattern were decided. In order to find out the influence of fabric materials on the jacket' shapes, Three kinds of wool fabrics were used and the results were evaluated. Summary of the research is as follows. When 0.5cm of the neckline edge is shortened, the standing part of the collar has less wrinkles, and its position looks natural and lastly, the material has slightly affected the collar's condition. It is desirable to make the top collar 0.2cm longer than the under collar. But the length should be different according to the fabric material. It it is thick cloth, the length has to be extended. To make the roll line straight, 0.4cm of the crossing point of gorge line should be corrected. The thick cloth needs more correction. To make the lapel's outline straight, it needs outwardly round 0.2cm more and materials make little difference to affect the shape.

칼라눕힘분에 따른 칼라 및 라펠의 특성 연구 -테일러드 칼라 재킷을 중심으로- (A Study on the Character of Collar and Lapels According to Collar Laying Amount -Focused on Tailored Jacket-)

  • 이소영
    • 한국의류학회지
    • /
    • 제35권4호
    • /
    • pp.421-430
    • /
    • 2011
  • This study suggests the proper collar laying amount to be actively used in the clothing industry by identifying the characteristics of collar and other related components according to the collar laying amount. This study comparatively analyzed the characteristics of each collar laying amount (2cm, 2.5cm, 3cm, 3.5cm, 4cm, and 4.5cm) after making 6 tailored jackets. The results are as follows: 1. The best shape of collar and lapel appeared when the collar laying amount was 3cm and 3.5cm. 2. Depending on the collar laying amount, the shape of collar, roll line form of collar and lapel, collar width, collar stand, the position and width of roll line changed. As the collar laying amount increased, the length of collar edge became longer, and the collar stand decreased. In case the collar laying amount was small (2cm, 2.5cm), the width of collar and lapel became narrower. On the contrary, when it is large (4cm, 4.5cm), the width of collar and lapel became wider. 3. Collar laying amount as well as the length of the neck line of collar affected the shape of the collar roll line around the neck.

칼라 꺾임선(線) 눕힘각도(角度) 변화(變化)에 따른 외곽치수(外廓値數) 및 스탠드량 변화(變化)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) - 오픈 칼라를 중심(中心)으로 - (A Study on the Variation of Collar Edge and Height according to the Angles of Collar Roll Line - Based on the Open Collar -)

  • 임자영
    • 패션비즈니스
    • /
    • 제9권2호
    • /
    • pp.143-159
    • /
    • 2005
  • This study was done to provide basic data for clothing design and thus to contribute to the academic development at the clothing and textile area and collar roll line lay down angle variation at collar width on the open collar. The study was composed as tallows: 1. The variation at collar outer wall size increase collar roll line lay down angle size the more Increase. 2. The outer wall and stand height size increase aware at variation collar width at the more Increase. It is desirable that this study will be at help to enchancement of life style in garments and promotion of garments industury by developing the archetype basic collar pattern suitable to Korean women's garments.

선박 보강부재 모서리 자동가공 시스템 개발 (Development of Automated Edge Milling System for Ship Stiffener Plate)

  • 신택영
    • 한국산업융합학회 논문집
    • /
    • 제26권4_2호
    • /
    • pp.679-686
    • /
    • 2023
  • According to the PSPC (Performance Standard for Protective coatings) rule, the edge preparation must keep 2R or 3-pass grinding. The stiffener plate edge grinding of the ship inside is manually progressed by worker and worked with just one pass grinding. In addition, the poor working condition cause grinding workers to avoid working in them, and the quality is determined by the skill-level of a worker. This research developed optimal tool for edge milling. In order to milling various collar plates edge, this research developed vision system that can recognize the edge points and it developed a program that operator can adjust the amount of cutting and speed, and add various features so that milling quality would be improved. So, this research focused on overcoming the difficulties in working condition and development of automated milling machine for ship stiffener plate.

기계공업 종사자의 작업복 착용 실태조사 연구 (A Research of Worker's Uniform in the Mechanical Industry)

  • 김혜령;서미아
    • 복식문화연구
    • /
    • 제10권6호
    • /
    • pp.718-734
    • /
    • 2002
  • The purpose of this study is to provide basic data f3r improvement in Working Uniform in both scientific and efficient ways. The study were enforced by questionnaire and personal interview. The subject of the survey were the workers of 264 in mechanic industry in Seoul. The results obtained from the researches by methods above are as follows. 1. In general, Working Uniform could be classified types of two. One is loose-fitting one-piece garment covering the body and legs, the other is two-piece garment. The latter is a jacket with either sports collar or soutein collar, fastened with either buttons or a zipper and its sleeve is finished by cuffs and tapes. Regarding to color. inkblue, dark navy, khaky, dark beige are favourable ones. 2. In regard to the necessity of uniform that workers suppose, most of them were aware of it and agreed wearing uniform could play an important part. The reason why are on the basis of safety-first and work efficiency and also to protect a body from harmful or toxic dirt specially in machinery workplace. 3. The purpose of wearing an uniform according to statistics of population make some difference in age, gender. categories of industry, and the scale of factory. 4. In regard to care of uniform, front hem, edge of sleeve in a jacket, and knee, hip part in pants were most vulnerable spots for dirt. The parts damaged easily are edge of sleeve in a jacket and a zipper in pants. On the average, laundry have been done by water and was once a week frequency.

  • PDF

여성용 테일러드 칼라 베스트 브레이크라인 맞음새 연구 (The Break Line Fit Improvement of the Women's Tailored Collar Vest)

  • 김영희;박진아
    • 복식
    • /
    • 제66권4호
    • /
    • pp.146-165
    • /
    • 2016
  • The aim of the study is to propose ways to improve the break line fit of women's tailored collar vests by modifying the patternmaking process. The study explored the fit effects of experimental vests with a focus on 3 different breast sizes, A, B, and C cups. Women in the ages between 20 and 24 in South Korea were targeted. In order to carry out the objective, the study implemented separate girth measurements for the front and the back of the tailored collar vests, and also allocated different dart amounts on the lapel through the break line according to the different breast cup sizes. The study adopted a 5-point rating scale to perform evaluation of the different fit effects caused by the varying dart amounts given on the experimental vests' break lines. This evaluation was carried out by apparel pattern experts. The results derived from the study were as follows: first, the implementation of separate girth measurements provided originality to the study, as the application of different measurements for the waist back length and the neck shoulder point-to-breast point-to-waist line led to the front panels of the experimental vests having varying slack amounts. Second, break line dart was applied in three different amounts, 0.5, 1.0, and 1.5cm respectively according to A, B and C breast sizes, and as the dart amount increased, extra ease on the break lines was reduced. The dart was applied on the edge lines of the lapel and it was applied from a point which was 6cm above the breast point to the end of the princess line for all the breast cup sizes.

PSPC 적용을 위한 모서리 밀링 자동화 시스템 개발 (Development of Edge Milling Automation System for PSPC Application)

  • 유현수;박일환;고대은;김호경
    • 한국산학기술학회논문지
    • /
    • 제19권5호
    • /
    • pp.122-130
    • /
    • 2018
  • 국제 해사 기구의 선체 보호 도장 기준이 의무화됨에 따라 조선소에서는 칼라 플레이트의 모서리 부분에 대해 2R 또는 3-pass 밀링 가공을 수행해야 한다. 그러나 기존 수작업 방식에 의존하고 있는 상황에서 2R 또는 3-pass 밀링 가공을 수행한다면 작업 환경 및 생산성 측면에서 많은 문제점이 발생할 것으로 예상된다. 따라서 규정을 만족할 수 있는 모서리 밀링 자동화 시스템을 개발하여 이러한 문제점을 해결할 필요가 있다. 본 연구에서는 표준 칼라 플레이트를 대상으로 모서리 밀링 자동화 시스템 기본 설계를 수행하였고, 형상 인식 및 가공 경로 생성 알고리즘을 적용하여 가공 프로세스를 정립하였다. 또한, 운영 소프트웨어를 구축하고, 전용 가공 툴을 제작하여 밀링 테스트를 수행한 결과를 토대로 적합한 밀링 가공조건을 도출하였다. 향후, 본 연구를 통해 개발된 모서리 밀링 자동화 시스템을 조선소에 도입하여 현장 테스트를 수행하고, 그 결과를 토대로 상용화 연구를 진행한다면 선체 보호 도장 기준을 충족할 수 있는 자동화 시스템을 구축함과 동시에 생산성 향상을 기대할 수 있다.

조선왕조(朝鮮王朝) 왕릉(王陵) 문인석상(文人石像)의 복식형태(服飾形態)에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Costume Style of Civil Servants' Stone Images Erected at Tombs of the Kings for Yi-dynasty)

  • 권용옥
    • 복식
    • /
    • 제4권
    • /
    • pp.87-114
    • /
    • 1981
  • A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.

  • PDF

16세기 조선 기녀의 일반 연회(宴會) 규정복식 고증 디자인 연구;문화콘텐츠용 이미지 작업을 중심으로 (A Study on the Design of Official Costume of 16th Century Gineyo in Scholar's Banquet;Focusing on the Image Design for Cultural Contents)

  • 최해율
    • 한국의류학회지
    • /
    • 제32권8호
    • /
    • pp.1322-1331
    • /
    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to design an official costume of Joseon Ginyeo in the scholar’s banquet in 16th century, thereby making correct historical animation, drama costumes, and various costume contents. Every Ginyeo in and wore a long yellow coat with short front edge. 'Dan-ei', Ginyeo’s court costume, had very similar shape except color and collar, therefore the size of Dan-ei was adapted to design a yellow coat for drama actress. Ginyeo’s Jogori in these paintings was wide and long enough to cover undervelly under the edge of yellow coat, but It was designed more slim and long for better appearence and comfortable movement in my work. A skirt of Ginyeo was designed with circumference of about 360cm and length of about 105cm according as a skirt style of Joseon ladies in 16th century. Ginyeo's Jam(hairpin) was consist of a vase, a plum blossom, and a lotus pattern. And, a wide underpants with a single suspender, portable pouch, Un-hae(women’s shoes) with low heel are needed for drama actress in the role of Ginyeo. In this design, it is very important to save an estimate and time, select suitable mordern fabrics, reform discomportable points, express a charater’s role, and make a trendy appearence.