• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.79-92
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop knitwear design expressed not also Green but also LOHAS using natural yarns(wool and cotton) dyed with various natural sources(sappanwood, indigo plant, turmeric, cochineal, coffee, gallnut, and persimmon juice). This researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of knitwear designs to break from the cottage industry and the limitation of design in Jeju and to preserve of traditional dye with persimmon juice simultaneously. Knitting is the formation of a fabric by the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns with hand knitting or industrial knitting. In hand-knitting, the two fundamental stitches are described as knit depending on the direction of the loop formation, front to back or back to front. In machine-knitting, the direction of loop formation is fixed, unless the stitch is mechanically transferred from front to back needle bed or vice versa. Industrial knitting technology can be divided into two main areas - weft knitting and warp knitting. Each has a different principle of construction. The majority of knitted fabrics for clothing are weft-knitted, and so this study is used weft-knitting and hand knitting technology. To achieve this purpose, researcher tried to present a lot of knitwear designs using yarns dyed with various natural sources focusing on Modern & Sophisticated Image and Elegance & Romantic Image to satisfy adult and missy consumer needs.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.90-99
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• 2011

The aim of this study is to develope eco-printing method using natural pigments and chitosan as a natural binder. Three chitosans with different molecular weights were employed to find appropriate conditions including chitosan concentration and pigment/binder ratio. Dye uptake, color and fastnesses of the printed fabrics were evaluated to find optimum conditions within the range of experiments carried out in this study. The effectiveness of chitosan as a printing binder was examined in comparison with color, dye uptake, and fastnesses of conventional synthetic binder and guar gum. It was found that chitosans with low or medium molecular weight were appropriate. Using low molecular weight chitosan, optimum concentrations were 1.7% for charcoal, madder and chlorophyll, whereas 2.2% for ocher, yellow soil, indigo and cochineal. Regardless of molecular weight and concentration of chitosan, the color fastnesess of fabrics printed with mineral pigments were superior to those of the fabrics printed with plant and animal pigments. As pigment/chitosan ratio became higher, rubbing fastness was decreased by 1-3 grade. The colorfastness of printed fabric with chitosan binder was similar to that with synthetic binder, which was higher than that with guar gum.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.6
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• pp.39-46
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• 2005

The National Museum of Korea has a collection of various materials. In particular, items made from organic materials such as wood, paper, and leather are vulnerable to the influence of insects and germs, requiring fumigation as well as pesticides and bactericides. The influence of pesticides and bactericides on the change in dyed paper was examined by applying the oddy test used to confirm the toxicity of various materials used in museums. Results revealed that the products of B and H companies had the least influence on the change in dyed paper. On the other hand, the result of the examination of cochineal and curcuma dyed paper revealed a significant change in the control group compared to the one exposed together with dyed paper, probably because of humidity rather than the sample.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.8
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• pp.1484-1492
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• 2001

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of dyeing by natural dye, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Lithodpermum officinale were studied. Appropriate extraction, dveing and mordanting conditions of Lithodpermum officinale were determined, and the effect of mordanting no dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbances of Lithopermum officinale solution were at 521 and 561 mn, shikonin solution were 517 and 556 mn. According to the UV-VIS spectroscopy of shikonin solution showed batho chromic shift with the increase of temperature and the absorbance of shikonin solution increased with the increase of temperature. The color of Lithodpermum officinale solution was affected by pH 8∼9, they became dark, reduced reddish and bluish. The optimum conditions for extraction from Lithodpermum officinale were at 80$\^{C}$ and for 1 hour and at 25$\^{C}$ for 24 hours. And effective dyeing conditions with silk fabric were temperature at 80∼100$\^{C}$ and period for 60min. K/S value and color fastness of dyed fabrics were increased by mordanting treatment. In the case of Lithodpermum officinale light fastness was better than Sophora japonica, Gaesalpinia Sappan, Rhusjara,. Cochineal dyeing fabrics. Perspiration fastness of Lithodpermum officinale were good. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning were good these fastness improvement were generatlly effected by post-mordanting treatment.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• v.50 no.1
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• pp.31-45
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• 2022

After manufacturing the natural dyed actual size Hanji using 11 kinds of plant natural dyeing materials and 2 kinds of animal natural dyeing materials, the color characteristics and color change and color fastness after post-mordanting were compared and discussed. The hues of 13 types of natural dyed Hanji were black, PB, and RP, each with 1 type, YP with 3 types, and Y with 7 types. Among the natural dyeing materials, Chinese ink, indigo and Lac showed high color yield and color difference, and violet-root cromwell and gardenia seeds showed low color yield. The color fastness of Hanji dyed with turpentine diluted Ottchil, Pagoda tree seeds, Chinese ink and indigo was excellent, while that of gardenia seeds and violet-root cromwell were very poor. After post-mordanting of natural dyed Hanji with Al, Cu, and Fe mordants, the hue changes were show up the Alnus firma, clove, lac and cochineal. In addition, the color difference was very diverse and was overall the most biggest due to Fe mordant. After 72 hr. of UV irradiation on post-mordanting natural dyed Hanji, hue change was observed in 3 types and color fastness was improved in 8 types by post-mordanting. The Hue and color fastness are significantly different depending on the type of natural dying materials and post-mordants. Therefore, when dyeing Hanji with natural dyes, it is necessary to dye with sufficient knowledges and informations about the desired color and fastness.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.28
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• pp.109-136
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• 2022

This study analyzes the , one of the three panels of 《Welcoming Banquets for the Governor of Pyeong-an》, a documentary painting of the late Joseon Dynasty, with the aim to identify the coloring materials used in the painting. The painting was first imaged at each wavelength in order to minimize the potential problems in the process of analyzing specific parts. This study applied X-rays to identify ink, gold, and organic and inorganic pigments and used infrared rays to find ink and copper-based pigments. It also applied hyperspectral imaging to distinguish organic pigments from black, blue, and green materials. It also analyzed spots selected for each color to identify the following materials: white lead (white), ink/indigo (black), a combination of red lead and cinnabar (red), pink dye, purple dye, iron oxides (brown), orpiment/dye (yellow), malachite/malachite and yellow dye/indigo (green), azurite/white lead and indigo/indigo (blue), indigo and cochineal (violet), and gold leaf (gold). It is expected that more efficient analysis will be made possible by securing a sufficient library for each wavelength.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.219-234
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• 2014

Fabrics, natural dyed fabrics, papers, natural dyed papers and paints were examined effects of colors and mechanical properties for materials of museum collections under anoxic treatment. Anoxic conditions using nitrogen and argon were oxygen concentration 0.01%, temperature($20^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$, $30^{\circ}C$), 50% RH and exposure time 30 days. Examined fabrics were raw silk fabric, UV irradiated raw silk fabric, degummed silk fabric, UV irradiated degummed silk fabric, cotton fabric, and UV irradiated cotton fabric. Natural dyed silk and cotton fabrics were dyed with fresh indigo, indigo, safflower, gromwell, madder sappanwood, amur cork tree, turmeric, gardenia, barberry root, pagoda tree flower, cochineal, lac, alnus japonica, gallnut, chestnut shell, and combination(indigo and safflower, indigo and amur cork tree, indigo and pagoda tree flower, indigo and sappanwood). Papers were Korean papers(mulberry paper, mulberry(70%) and rice straw(30%) mixed paper), Japanese paper(gampi paper), cotton paper, refined linen paper, cotton, linen & manila mixed fibre furnish, copy paper, news print, and alum sized mulberry paper. Natural dyed papers were dyed with indigo, sappanwood, madder, safflower, gardenia, amur cork tree, and pagoda tree flower. Paints were painted on alum-sized papers and silk fabrics using glue and pigments(azurite, malachite, cinnabar, vermilion, orpiment, gamboge, red lead, haematite, iron oxide red, indigo(lake), lac, cochineal, safflower, madder root lake, celadonite, smalt, ultramarine blue, lapis lazuli, prussian blue, kaolin, lead white, oyster-shell white, and clam-shell white). The color differences(${\Delta}E^*$) of all examined materials were below 1.5 or lowered than control samples after anoxic treatment. The variations of tenacity of yarns of fabrics and natural dyed fabrics after anoxic treatment were within that of standard silk and cotton fabrics. Gases(nitrogen and argon) and temperatures of anoxic treatment did not also affected color differences and variations of tenacity of materials.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.357-366
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• 2017

Natural pigments are materials that express color and have been used in foods, cosmetics, medicine and so on. Since natural pigments are extracted from animals and plants, they are not uniform in size. Red pigments in particular are more lipophilic than other color pigments and tend to aggregate easily in aqueous solutions which make it difficult to reproduce the specific color due to size change. Found to be an allergen and the growing aversion for it to be used in foods, cochineal pigment, an animal pigment used for red pigments is being used less. In this study, red vegetable pigment lycopene extract and gardenia yellow was made uniform in size by ball-milling, then asymmetrical flow-field flow fractionation (AsFlFFF) and dynamic light scattering (DLS) were used to measure the size, and a color meter was used to confirm the color. Experimental results showed that the pigment particles were large in size and size distribution was wide before milling, but the size of the particles decreased and size distribution narrowed after milling. Color meter measurements showed that as the milling time increased, the size of the pigment particles decreased and the brightness, redness, and yellowness increased indicating a bright red color.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.36 no.5
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• pp.351-367
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• 2020

The pigments of three old and new celestial charts folding screens(『Celestial Chart(Folding Screen)』 and 『Old and New Celestial Charts, Eight-Panel Folding Screen』 of National Folk Museum of Korea and 『Koudou-Nanboku-Ryousouseizu』 of National Diet Library of Japan) were analyzed to estimate their dating. It was estimated that the 『Celestial Charts(Folding Screen)』 was painted using traditional pigments from the Joseon dynasty such as azurite, indigo lake, malachite, atacamite, vermilion, iron oxide, cochineal, gamboge, orpiment, lead white, talc and soot. The green and blue colors of the 『Old and New Celestial Charts, Eight-Panel Folding Screen』 and 『Koudou-Nanboku-Ryousouseizu』 were painted using artificial inorganic pigments such as emerald green and ultramarine blue. These pigments were imported from Europe post the mid-19th century. In the 『Old and New Celestial Chart, Eight-Panel Folding Screen』, only artificial inorganic pigments were used for green and blue colors. However in the 『Koudou-Nanboku-Ryousouseizu』, emerald green and atacamite in green color, and ultramarine blue and indigo lake in blue color were used together. Based on both the results of pigment analysis and the study of star charts and inscriptions, the 『Celestial Charts(Folding Screen)』 was painted post mid-18th century. The 『Koudou-Nanboku-Ryousouseizu』 and 『Old and New Celestial Charts, Eight-Panel Folding Screen』 were painted after green and blue artificial pigments were imported in the mid-19th century. The 『Koudou-Nanboku-Ryousouseizu』 in which both traditional and western artificial pigments were used, can be dated earlier than the 『Old and New Celestial Chart, Eight-Panel Folding Screen』.

• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.80-88
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• 2016

Seven kinds (acacia, cochineal, catechu, grape peel, persimmon, gallnut and clove) of color powders obtained from natural resources and their mixtures were evaluated for their biological activities, such as antioxidant (ABTS and DPPH radicals scavenging), cholesterol absorption, and COX-2 inhibitory activities. Catechu, gallnut and clove were selected for the further studies due to its the best activities. The cholesterol absorption, COX-2 inhibitory, ${\alpha}$-amylase inhibitory and ${\alpha}$-glucosidase inhibitory activities were measured using the mixtures of catechu, gallnut and clove. The ABTS radical scavenging activity of the seven types of natural color powders were higher than the DPPH radical scavenging activity. The cholesterol absorption activity was significantly higher in cloves. The COX-2 inhibitory activity was significantly lower in acacia. The ${\alpha}$-amylase inhibitory activity was higher in catechu and gallnut, indicating that there were no significant difference between two mixtures. The ${\alpha}$-glucosidase inhibitory activity was the highest in catechu, which was higher than that of the catechu-containing mixtures. From all these results, a synergistic effect could be obtained when utilizing a mixture of powders rather than using only individual type. Since the activity of each powder was different, further studies will be required for clarifying the interactions between mixtures.