• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.27-42
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• 2019

This paper tried a detailed approach to identify the correlation among basic elements that influenced the change of forms of the Po. To this end, the subjects were limited to the clothing from the 15th to the 18th century, which was found in the tombs of the period of Pyeonbokpo. The total number of excavated artifacts measured directly is 6 and other correctly described excavated artifacts for a total of 54 items. Per period and element, the types of collars and Seop were presented by classifying collars in 4 types, and Seop in 3 types. On the basis of the classification, the relics selected in this paper were analyzed considering the appearance, period, and rate per type of each element. The type and the change of forms of each element per period, with the focus on the appearance, were identified and the factors influencing the change of forms per element and the correlation between such factors were investigated. The representative type in the first period included dual collars, dual Seop and the representative type in the second period was characterized by a shawl collar and a dual Seop joining the pieces. The representative type in the third period was characterized by round collars and a short Seop. The elements determining the forms of Po, including collars and Seop, had a correlation to the lapse of time and had been systematically influencing each other. Furthermore, the overall change of form was caused due to the social functions as well as the supplementary function of keeping balance among the elements and accordingly, the change of forms was think characterized per period.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.53-62
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• 2009

Through the result of the investigation on costumes in Bulgarian regions, the main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume and its kinds and history have been found out so far as follows. Alhtough varying according to the district and climate, Bulgarian folk costumes have some general features determined by the material, the pattern, the application. For women, Bulgarian costume consists of a white shirt, a single or double apron unique depending on each region(Bruchnick), a basic dress called a tunic (Soukman), and an open-tunic typed coat (saya). The main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume have been under the influence of natural and environmental features and historical streams resulting from its geographical location. Bulgaria is agriculture-oriented society based on a continental climate. Accordingly, as for the classification of costumes, body-fit clothes, such as shirts and jackets which developed in Europe and fit the body shape, have featured in Bulgaria. Besides, Bulgaria was under the rule of Turk for a long time at the end of the Middle Age. Having been influenced a lot those days, its folk costume shows Turkish elements now. With geographical features, it was found that the southern area was influenced most by Turkey and Greece, and the types of folk costumes in Europe developed mainly from the northern area. The adaptation of traditional costume forms to the new cultural and progressive principles of appeal nowadays needs knowledge, as well as feeling. Finding the right measure and proportions of using old ethnic elemints in contemporary clothing is the prerequisite of successful design.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.564-573
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to investigate decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume of modern style which are shown in special monthly magazines relevant to the traditional magazine. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. The types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume are largely classified into single and composite types. In the traditional costume of the former type, a quite many of gold and silver foils and embroideries are found. While, in that of the latter type, a combination of two different decorations, embroideries and seonchigi or multi-colored stripes and seonchigi is often used. These decoration techniques are usually applied to some parts of the costume like git, kkeutdong or cuffs, somae or sleeves, seop, goreum or coat strings, jacket or jeogori, the lower hem of the skirt and between joined parts in the skirt. Used together with the techniques, patterns are usually applied onto embroideries and gold or silver foils. Most of the patterns are flower in shape. The main material of the Korean traditional costume is fabrics that have no pattern on the surface and are commercially available irrespective of season. Git used for jeogori is largely classified into dangko git and donggrae git in type. Its color is in most cases same as the main color of jeogori. Keutdong for jeogori is usually 4 to 5.5 cm in breadth, classified as type II. Its color is in most cases white. Goreum for jeogori is usually large in length. Its color is most cases same as that of jegori or reddish purple or blackish red purple.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.34-42
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to change practical korean costume in 20C. In the early 20C, inflow of western civilization started to change korean costume. Since then gradually changes to be simple in Korean costume. Results of this study can be summarized as follows: Traditional jacket (jeo-go-li) gradually began to be long to waist line. This jacket length was to be long and it sleeve is to be short in early 2OC. Traditional skirt (Chi-rna) length was short to the calf of the leg. Traditional wide skirt was gradually to be narrow and pleats shape look as if it in go-gu-Ryeo Dynasty. The width of pleats was about 3~5 cm, be one-sided, look as if it western style in today. But pleats skirt already existed on a women's of the upper classes in go-gu-Ryeo Dynasty. Women's long Coat (do-lu-ma-gi) length was short to under hip line in late 20c. In this way, the practical idea, the factor of design was because of western idea in civilization ages, early 20C. Since then gradually reformed to be simple in Korean costume. Assuming that the trend of simplification in Korean costume is related to the idea of practical. Therefore Korean costume of living or a reformed Korean costume to be design of practical, functional, convenient, economically. And it must have to traditional idea, it is only beauty of shape, pattern, line, fabric in Korean costume.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제4권
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• pp.21-45
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• 2004

The rapid development of science technology during the 20th century has greatly lowered the hours for labour, thus giving members of society extra time for leisure. With the increasement of leisure activities, sports casual wear has become one of the foremost leading items in the fashion industry, and among such sports casual, down wear has become the F/W season's most popular item. Because it generates high profits, many recognize it as a very important factor in lady's wear. Since the 1990's, down wear was widely applied to various sections of lady's, men's, and children's wear, and it has ceased to be limited to sports casual only. The purpose of this study was to fully understand the characteristics of down, and to develop crossover garments design desired not only in the F/W season but also the S/S season. It has been taken into consideration that many restrictions in sewing technique and material selection in manufacturing down as a fashion product exist when choosing a means of manufacture. That was why this study focused on the history and characteristics of down while analysing the works of domestic and foreign designers to concretely applicate them in fashion products. This study has divided the resulting down wear products according to consumer preference： vest, jacket, coat, one-piece, and skirt to applicate design manufacture of lady's wear in general, while designing and making artistically expressed down wear. There were 48 works developed as a result of this study, of which 41 were ready-to-wear, and the remaining 7 works were creative art wear.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.75-85
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• 2014

This study is aimed to examine color expressed in fashion items and color of new senior generation in America and Korea. For this study, the three brands were selected by country after examining new senior fashion brand in the United States and Korea. The results of this study are as follows. First, In the case of Korea, t-shirt, cardigan, jacket, coat, and pants were investigated in order. In the case of the United States, blouse, sleeveless t-shirt, skirt, and one piece dress were investigated in order. In other words, Korea is characterized the practical and comfort features, the United States is characterized the practical and feminine modernity. Second, in the case of color, Korea is characterized Bk, YR, R, PB, G and the United States is characterized W, Y, YG, B, BG. In the case of tone, Korea is characterized dark greyish tone, light greyish tone, strong tone, vivid tone, deep tone, and light tone. In the United States, greyish tone, dull tone, soft tone, pale tone, bright tone, and dark tone were used. In the case of color by tone, both Korea and the United States are characterized R, RP, and PB in gorgeous tone. In the case of light tone, both Korea and the United States are characterized Y. In the case of plain tone, Korea is characterized Y and the United States is characterized B and G. In the case of dark tone, Korea is characterized R, Y, G, B and the United States is characterized P, R, and B. The results of the study is expected to be provide as forecasting dates of design planning for the new senior generation.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.63-78
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• 2020

Korean Chinese, immigrants to China, have developed their own traditional costume culture. This paper aims to analyze the traditional costume culture of the Korean Chinese and to provide data for posterity. The research methods are literature research, survey research, and analysis research. The results are as follows: According to the changes over generations, the top of women's Hanbok has changed in length as has the jeogori (jacket), the git (collar), and the gooreum (breast-tie). The width of the git, dong-jeong (thin white cloth-covered paper collar of Hanbok), the sleeve, and gooreum have also changed. The git and the barae (the curve part of the sleeve) have changed from straight patterns to curves. The skirt had changed in wrinkles arrangement, length, and silhouette. The men's Hanbok jeogori and sleeves were lengthened; the pants became wider and were lengthened, and the collar also became curved. The vest has not changed and the du-ru-ma-gi (coat) that once disappeared is being worn again; the bae-ja (vest) and magoja (over-jacket) are worn frequently in modern times. The garments mainly used natural fiber until the development of synthetic fibers, but the treand has been the use of luxurious natural fibers in modern times. The initial color pattern was achromatic, but that changed with the appearance of synthetic fibers, and nowadays it is mainly the garmetnt can display a variety of colors. In addition, hairstyles and shoes have been eveolved from traditional to modern styles.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2008

This study is largely aimed at presenting ways to improve the working clothes and help companies create more positive images by suggesting designs of the clothes, which take into accounts the corporate image, symbolism, function and aesthetic appreciation through introduction of companies' CIP. And, it is significant to propose working clothes development condition and process with introduction of companies' CIP(Corporate Identity Program : work that systematize and simplify visually images which companies or public bodies have) A way of this study was made up with working clothes design development process which a student planned. First of all, this study looked into Company D's Corporate Identity Program(CIP) to develop the design that corresponds with the characteristics of the company's favorite design, working environment and demands of the employees. And, then, the study conducted a survey of 30 employees and intensive interviews with heads of four teams including the Safety Team, the Working Clothes Management Team and the General Affairs Team to find out the requirements of the clothes and the characteristics of the company. Based on them, the concrete image that the company pursues and the direction of design were set up through image positioning. In the end, three different concept designs were presented through image-mapping and the concrete design of each item was developed. A total of seven items including upper and lower garments (a jacket and trousers) for the spring-summer seasons, upper and lower garments (a jumper and trousers) for the winter season, cold-protecting vest and winter clothes (a coat and trousers) were presented in accordance with the three concepts. One of the concept designs, which was selected through evaluation by employees of Company D, was produced as a sample and then the final design was chosen after a discussion attended by the head of each team and representatives of the employees. Based on the aforementioned design planning, one design was selected from each of the three concept designs for production. And each of these was requested to special production enterprise and manufactured. Following the result of study, by looking into a case of a practical joint design project between a university and a company, this study suggested ideas for business to improve working clothes through the academic-industrial cooperation and presented conditions and process of design development. And, this study also aims to examine the feasibility of academic-industrial cooperation based on the cases in which enterprises and universities staged joint projects to develop working clothes.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.41-50
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• 2004

This research proposes the on-stage costumes for the play Hamlet of Shakespeare performed by Yunheedan Guhri Pae - the Street Theater Troupe. Stage costumes have an important role in displaying the characteristics of each characters to the audience and has big visual effects. However, in order to design the costumes in the object viewpoints of the audience, the survey on the images of the characters who had actually watched the performance was taken place and proposed the costume design according to the results of the survey. Hamlet a: This result was applied to propose a sweater in black color, black leather pants and vest. Hamlet b: This result was applied to propose hooded coat in purple in middle level of brightness and color spectrum and yellow coat. For free image, loose pants in blue and vest in the same color tone were proposed. Gertrude a: This result was applied to use purple (violet) with reddish tone to propose the formation of a dress applying tailored suit. Gertrude b: This result was applied to propose purple gown and the one-piece dress with black laces. Ophelia a: This result was applied to propose feminine white dress and cape in purple color tone. Ophelia b: This result was applied to propose dyed and weaved clothes. Through the surveys as above, the images of each character was driven in adjectives, and using the results driven from the brightness, coloration, and color, color images were proposed. Only one costume cannot make up for the stage costumes and because it exists as an element of stage production, it is true that costumes are limited in some areas. However, that limit can become the motive of the costume. There is a limit, which the designer cannot produce the costumes as he or she had designed but I believe it is the center of the on-stage customers to display the characteristics of the characters according to the given concept. The limit of this research is the fact that because the costumes were designed so they fit the conditions already given, thus it was difficult to regard the process of designing and producing the costume as a project done according to the interaction. And in the future, if it is possible, I wish for the joint research with the people responsible for stage art to take place as a practical stage art. It was possible to produce practical costume since they were produced for actual performance and the production of costumes considering the dance steps, line of flow, and acting, was able to reduce the trial and error on stage. Through this research, I felt that the understanding and smooth interaction on diverse other areas not limited to the costume design should be taken place and believe that this was a research that proposes new research method since there had been only a few previous research regarding the on-stage costumes for actual performances. Therefore, this research had depended on the surveys given to the audiences to endow objectivity, however, I wish this research can contribute to defining effective process and methods for the on-stage costumes with more active researches with diverse methods and in diverse areas. I am sorry that the costume production for all the characters and all the scenes in Hamlet couldn't be done due to many limitations. As the following research assignment, I am planning on designing the costumes for all the scenes.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권2호
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• pp.247-257
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop men's garment sizing system, based on the anthropometric measurements called 'SizeKorea', which was surveyed between 2003 and 2004. The number of the survey subjects was 3,215 of males, who were from 18 to 69 years old. In the results, body types were assorted by drops, consisting of 4 upper body types and 2 lower body types. Height, chest, waist and hip were selected as the key dimensions of sizing system and the intervals of them were decided on statistical analysis of key dimensions, size intervals of ready-to wear clothes and sizing systems of other countries. In the results, older group or shorter height group had less differences between chest and waist as well as between waist and hip, but younger group and taller group had more differences. The size intervals for fitted jacket and coat were 3cm in chest and waist, while the intervals for fitted pants were 2cm in waist and hip. The intervals for not-fitted clothes were 5cm in chest, waist and hip, which 5 cm interval of height were applied, in all cases.