• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.133-138
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to examine the correlation between physical properties of dried coacervate films and dry feel for shampoo composition. Simple shampoo compositions were made of two different cationic charge density polymers in the same surfactant compositions. The simple shampoo compositions were diluted with distilled water to make coacervate. Formed coacervate was collected by centrifuge (3,000 rpm, 30 min). Coacervate was coated on the glass plates and dried in drying oven (for 1 h, $50^{\circ}C$) to make the thin film. We carried out an experiment on measurement of contact angle, moisture loss ratio and SEM image analysis of the dried coacervate film. Dry feelings of the shampoos were evaluated by panel using hair tresses. Results show that the properties of dried coacervate films affect the dry feel of the after shampooing.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.267-275
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• 2018

This study attempts to quantify amount of coacervate generated in a formulation of shampoo with three methods using optical transmission, suspension in a glass tube, and centrifugation. For the correct data acquisition, each method has been optimized to estimate the amount of coacervate with minimum standard deviation. To simply and quantitatively estimate amount of coacervate, two formulations of shampoo were employed as a large or small amount of coacervate generated. Comparisons of the two formulations in repetitive measurement elucidated that the methods by the centrifugation efficiently can be utilized to estimate the accurate amount of coacervate. Additionally, the amount of coacervate by the centrifugation does not exhibit the difference of patterns before and after drying in a shampoo formulation with different conditioning polymers, and this suggests that the centrifugation is a superior method to compare amount of coacervate in liquid.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.141-149
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• 2018

The structure of the coacervate can dramatically influence deposition on the hair. The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of coacervate with a relatively fine and uniform structure on the surface properties of hair and its influence on hair damage. In this study, coacervates of different sizes were explored in 10% shampoo solutions; one solution contained coacervates with non-uniform sizes ($10-300{\mu}m$ average), and the other solution formed a coacervate with a fine and uniform ($1-3{\mu}m$) structure. To study the effect of shampoo on the physical properties of hair and damage to the hair, the hair breakage characteristics, color changes, friction properties, lipid contents and hair surface were examined after using two different types of shampoo. The results clearly show that the relatively fine and uniformly sized coacervate was evenly deposited over the surface of the hair. As a result, the coacervate system can substantially influence the surface properties of the hair such as hair friction, breakage characteristics, and color. The frictional force was dramatically reduced. The use of a fine and uniformly sized coacervate can notably improve hair surface properties. Consequently, hair breakage decreased, and the effect of the coacervate on hair damage was remarkably high.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.285-293
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• 2018

A structure of coacervate affects the adsorption of oil and polymer as a conditioning ingredient. This study aims to elucidate a structural characterization of the coacervate of which is a mixture of alkyl cellulose and guar gum. It is well known that the guar gum supports stiffness to the hair when it is adsorbed on the hair. However, addition of guar gum in the formulation composed of alkyl cellulose tremendously increased flexibility in hair. The stable complex system is induced by an electrostatic force between a head group of anionic surfactant and an quarternary ammonium at the alkyl cellulose, and the affinity of alkyl chain to the oil inside the micelle of surfactant by hydrophobic interactions. Taken together, amount of the coacervate increased oil-delivery upon hair in shampooing and these caused a low bending rigidity and calming on the hair swatch.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.105-116
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• 2019

Oil adsorption during hair or body washing is responsible for the hair conditioning. In this study, we established a method to extract oil from a substrate, and to determine amount of adsorbed oil upon substrate using a conventional absorption spectroscopy. We controlled the mole fraction of a surfactant in a mixture of anionic and amphoteric surfactants because that it induces the coacervate that regulates amount of adsorbed oil through the alteration of oil viscosity. Based on this, we established the optimized condition for adsorption and extraction for oil. UV absorbance were employed to estimate the amount of adsorbed oil using optical absorbance after extraction via adsorption. The estimation was confirmed by comparing with a mass analysis in HPLC and an adhesive energy in AFM. It has been proved that this method can be applied to all cases of oil adsorption from the results with various cationic polymers and a complex system of the polymers which regulate the oil adsorption.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.191-200
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• 2018

In this study, we conducted research to find anti-wrinkle skin care ingredients from natural sources via the measurement of procollagen type 1 levels in the medium of normal human dermal fibroblast (NHDF) and found that a Nelumbo nucifera leave extract (NLE) was as the best effective ingredient. By the high performance liquid chromatography analysis, we confirmed isoquercitrin was one of the main compounds of NLE. Moreover, it also increased the procollagen type 1 production without cytotoxicity of NHDF. NLE and isoquercitrin exerted free radical scavenging activity. Especially, isoquercitrin exhibited strong intracellular antioxidant capacity in human skin-derived cells, HaCaT and NHDF. Finally, we performed clinical test for the inhibitory effect of NLE on skin wrinkle formation. A randomized study was conducted in 22 healthy female volunteers, aged between 30 and 65 yrs, with moderate to moderately severe facial wrinkles. Volunteer applied a 1.7% NLE cream (isoquercitrin 51 ppm) and a control cream at each facial side (left/right) twice daily for 8 weeks. The 1.7% NLE cream improved skin roughness through reducing the wrinkle of the craw's feet significantly without any skin side effect. Our results demonstrate that NLE and isoquercitrin can increase the collagen production and exert antioxidant activity. Therefore, we expect that the new non-toxic herbal extract, isoquercitrin-containing NLE will be interesting natural ingredient of cosmetics with anti-wrinkle efficacy.