• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.65-80
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• 1994

In the 20th century, The artistic world was constantly producing new ideas and movements and the world of fashion responded to and reflected them all in greater of lesser degree. Dress designers have always been aware of what is happening In the arts and have always been able to use the discoveries and ideas of the artist to help them solve design problems and create fashion which are new, inventive and reflective of thier time. Up to the present, other researchers have investigated the connections between the fine arts and the Modern Fashion. In this respect, the objective of this research was to clarify the characteristics of painting of the Impressionism on the Modern Fashion. In order to investigate the relationship between the trend of painting and Modern Fashion. Especially, Impressionism's light and color affected both 20th's painting and other sorts of art. That is, the trend of the modern painting, Fauvism, Cubism, Surrealism, Abstract art, Abstract Expressionism, was influenced by Impressionism painting. Similarly, in the sihouette, line, color, fabric pattern of the Modem Fashion was represented characteristics of the Impressionism Painting. The fashion's Fauve, Paul Poiret was excited by the power of color in the same intense way as the 'wild beasts' of art. The color of his clothes during that period was bold and brilliant. Gabrielle Chanel simplified the shape of women's clothes to a square cardigan and rectangular skirt. This was a cubist concept. Art and fashion probably held hands closest in the 1930s, when Elsa Schiaparelli was creating clothes directly influenced by the Surrealist thinking of Salvador Dali. And she burst upon the fashion world with a sweater that had a trompe I'oeil bow. Soma Delaunay was one of great pioneers of Abstract in. She proceeded to mix strong and bright colors into her art and created the geometric and abstract patterns of the clothes and fabrics with her strong color. The influence of Abstract Expressionism was expressed the fabrics of the Modern Fashion. Some fabrics used in Modern Fashion are printed in a dripping pouring and splashing style. For the future, some futher research to investigate the art-fashion connection might involve establishing systematic classifications for silhouette, line, texture, color of the fashion. Moreover, in order to study the influence of fine art on the fashion, a broader approach might wish to analyze the relationship between painting and other plastic arts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.23-36
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• 2004

The knitting, which has developed from the onset of human civilization, has a close relation to dwelling as well as to clothing itself. Its progress has taken shape in a variety of forms according to nature-friendly tools and its knit texture in the past is different from that of modern times. With this basic idea, the work aims at the further study of various knitting structure which triggered the origin of modern techniques, the establishment of those methods, and the finding of what means was utilized earlier based on these. By doing that, this study will provide the foundation in the Korean historical timeframe in knitting field and give definition to knit wear in a historical sense. As to definition, the outcome in the research boils down to two categories. broad meaning and narrow meaning. The former can be the hook-formed textile, referring to making, twisting, or binding the knots. On the other hands, the latter, that is, narrow type, can be the loop-linked fabric which can be defined as modern knitting. The knitting dates back to the ancient way of binding structure, combining structure in other words, and braiding structure and this kept dividing into subgroups like Netting. Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet as the usage of hands and tools by mankind has got improved. And it changed into knitting and crochet which means a bamboo needle-hook knitting (larger needle type) and a crochet-hook knitting (smaller needle type), respectively through middle ages and modern times and settled down to the production of fabric. In this work, Netting, Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet are classified as ancient category in which these originate the modern knitting method. Though the modern type of knitting is not found in the Joseon Dynasty, some various methods from the ancient twisting skill and binding skill where the materials with easy access to acquisition in the nature such as rattan, straw, horsehair, hemp, rush, cotton, silk and the like to Netting, Nalbinding and Sprang except Crochet were handed down and used in costume for diverse application. This work can provide the basic frame in terms of Korean history of knitting which has been excluded in the relevant researches until now. When applying the study, it would trigger the initiation of more versatile design with which the previous unique techniques along with modern techniques can be adopted in the clothing market as knit designs gain in public favor more and more.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.830-843
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• 2016

The world wide increase of obesity and demands for various plus-size fashion are expanding the global plus-size fashion market. This study is to understand the market status of the US (the biggest plus-size fashion market) as well as analyze women's fashion shown in power blogs on the plus-size fashion trend. For research methods, photos from the top 10 globally ranked plus-size power blogs on Alexa.com were collected and divided into 5 plus-size body types based on: design factors, style, color, item, and texture. Pants with tops or completed outfits including pants, tops, and outer were the most common for casual styles; in addition, a tendency to pursue comfortable and naturally fitted clothes was also indicated. As for colors, the most common were blue colors and white or pastel toned colors; in addition, soft, hard, and transparent were all evenly used for materials. One-piece items were the most popular formal style that were mostly a one-tone color made with hard materials indicated by the pursuit of the fanciness and formality of a dress for a formal occasion. Black was the most common color, and the color variation was less diverse compared to that of casual styles. The most common for semi-formal styles were outfits with movability and more fanciness such as wearing a casual outer on top of a formal one-piece. When examining the fashion in plus-size blogs, there are differences in the frequency of design factors due to the diversity of body-types; in addition, different items were shown to be preferred in accordance with styles. The results of this study will help fashion companies who want to enter the global plus-size women's fashion market (including the US market); in addition, research on plus-size fashion that is changing the fashion and aesthetic paradigm is expected to contribute to academia.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1353-1364
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to present a theoretical framework for analysis and interpretation of medieval look in fashion by investigating its aesthetic values. Accordingly, it would provide a better understanding of the medieval culture with its composite aspects. Modernism sought to make the Middle Ages in its own image.'New Medievalism' has on the whole tried to avoid reading the Middle Ages onto the modern world. Instead it designates a predisposition about the discipline of medieval studies broadly conceived. Consequently, it has changed the viewpoint of medieval culture from the one-sided angle into the diversified one. As recent studies based on New Medievalism have argued, a close look at the medieval culture revealed the dualistic nature of it, with contradictory aspects such as piety and secularity, ideality and formality coexisting. The characteristics of the medieval culture are categorized to asceticism, naturalism, mysticism and secularism. Asceticism, which is responsible for the melancholic and heavy atmosphere of the medieval culture, is related to christianity and despair of life. It is expressed in medieval dress in forms of body-concealing semi-fitted silhouette, coarse texture and dark color. As a reaction to the extreme splendor and exposure of recent fashion, the ascetic medieval look is attracting attention. The monastic look is characterized by body-concealing silhouettes and minimalized usage of colors and details. Naturalism is the feature seeking for purity of the nature and the human itself. It appears in terms of line as a smooth curve flowing along the body contours, or as a revival style of the Greco-Roman drapery in the medieval dress. Naturalism in the medieval look of the late 20th century fashion is expressed as a pure image with the use of sheer and soft fabric to form a smooth curve flowing along the body contours. Mysticism symbolizes the authority of the Christ and the glory of heaven. It is presented in the medieval dress of the body-concealing straight silhouette made of gorgeous fabrics, brilliant colors and decorations by gems and gold. The insecurity caused by the fin-de-siecle mood is creating a strong interest in religion and it is reflected in fashion as a medieval look reviving the solemn and magnificent style of the medieval dress. Secularism is a reflection of the medieval mind of indulging in the beauty of the mundane world. Heraldry and excessive decorations of the medieval dress are forms of this secularism. These styles of gorgeousness are being refined into a new medieval look of the 1990's. The medieval look of the modern fashion is featured in various styles, reflecting the pluralism of the postmodern society.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.12
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• pp.1761-1771
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• 2007

The artificial exaggeration of stage costumes is thought to be one of the major techniques of enhancing dramatic expression on stage, whichever for visual impact or symbolic effect of dramatization. In the history of stage dressing, a variety of styles has been tried using different materials and production techniques. This may be reviewed as an effort to express dramatic effects more effectively. As this trend became obvious in Europe after the Second World War, this study analyzes the stage costume to deepen our understandings of the role of costumes in expressing dramatic effects. To accomplish this, we first summarized the history of stage costume materials and technical advance and chose five major cases representing the history of stage costume since the Second World War in Europe based on aesthetic and creative aspects: 1) Simplified stage of Jacques Copeau, 2) Stylized stage of Bertolt Brecht, 3) Essential stage of Grotowski, 4) Measured stage of Robert Wilson the Master, and 5) Post-dramatic stage of Philippe $Decoufl\'{e}$. In each of particular case, the historical, material and dramatic contexts were examined as well as different material-effects. The results are as followings: 1) Costume for Copeau's simplified stage: its simplicity plays a supporting role to the gesture of actors(intensifying effect). 2) Costume for Brecht's stylized stage: the artificial stylization integrates into the play with the importance approximately equal to the actors's acting. 3) Costumes for Grotowski's essential stage: costumes disappeared to emphasize only actor's presence on stage. 4) Costumes for Robert Wilson's measured stage: costumes made concrete impression to the extent of obtaining the same importance of actor's body among other stage art elements(lighting, sound, props, actor, text, etc). 5) Costumes for Decoufle's post-dramatic stage: costumes in the era of multi technology possess multi functional aspects that surrogate actors' body. This study suggests that stage costumes take an important part in dramaturgy to the extent that the intent of dramaturgy can be induced enough from stage costume. Thus, costume makers are expected to incorporate the appropriate dramatic factor more than before.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.17
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• pp.137-148
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• 1991

The use of bark cloth, made of the inner bark of certain trees, was widespread along tropical zones from the Africa to the Hawaii encompassing the globe. They include Malaysia, Indonesia, New Guinea, Polynesian Islands and South America. Among them the Hawaiian bark cloth, named Kapa(pronounced as tapa) was rated as the best quality and most admired. It has variety in designs and colors as well as the most sophistcated production methods. The distinct processes of kapa making are composed of two stages. The first is called first beating and it is a preparatory stage to beat the sea-water soaked bast. It was done with a round beater on a stone anvil. The second beating process was carried out with the squared beater and wooden anvil. The strips from the first beating was soaked again in the water and then beaten lightly to break up fibers. The craftmen laid a bundle of strips over the anvil and beat it into pieces of kapa. The second beater of Hawaii was the most characteristic one among bark cloth producing countries. On their surfaces were the engraved patterns, which were creation of theirs. These distinguished designs enabled them to produce the kapa with the thinner and finer texture and an elaboration of impressed designs known as "watermaks". The Hawaiian culture was self-sufficient one : Everything they used was of their own creation until 19th century. Among their inventions of printing designs on kapa are three most important and distinguished processes. They are the overlaying, the cord snapping and the block printing techniques. Their inventiveness as well as self sufficient environment made it possible to develop their fine art of the kapa making. It is said that the mass producing and cheap western technology of loom forced them to gradually abandon their traditional art and as a result this fine and valuable legacy of Hawaiian traditional kapa making technique is all but disappeared. However it is encouraging and heart warming to find that some of the people as well as specialized researchers pined together to form a group to try to reproduce the old kapa and study the traditional art. They consider the kapa as an expression of the ethnic identity with Hawaii's heritage as well as valuable art of human history.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.5 no.1 s.12
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• pp.78-86
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• 2007

One of the latest social trends is to reappear old things under the banner of the revival. It is easily found in the fashion industry because Fashion is not divided into the past, the present and the future thing but coexisting through all ages. The purpose of this study was to pursue the healthy and characteristic beauty of the modem people by understanding the beauty culture of the ancient. The Middle ages were mainly classified into Byzantine, Romanesque and Gothic by historical and cultural factors. In the Byzantine age, the clothing with rich silhouette was worn by the influence of the abstemious religion and it didn't express a specific proportion of human body. The people covered their hair with turbans and veils for the period. The Romanesque era was affected by the religious idealism and the Greek-Roman culture. The ideal proportion of human body could be 8 heads high and the clothes expressing natural silhouette of human body came out. Depending on the feel of the flowing texture, long-braided hair was typical in that time, and also wearing kinds of head dress as personal ornaments was characteristic in the age. In the period of Gothic, the long and weak human body was emphasized. The ideal proportion of human body could be figured with 8.5 heads high and it was expressed with the form of artificial and vertical silhouette such like tight-fitting upper garments, gathered skirts and long hats.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.29
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• pp.23-38
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• 1996

The purpose of this study was to analyze the characteristics of the Minimal Art represented in the second half 20th century fashion. All the mode of dress worn this century have developed from the stimulus of a chang-ing society fired by new discoveries and a zest for the new and different. It would appear that even more dramatic changes will soon occur in our clothing styles the effects of which will be farreaching. Many of today's styles intended to dress our psyche rather than our bodies and this if fully understood by the new designers whose influ-ence will become increasingly more potent as we approach the new century. The highly developed material civilization resulted in human alienations environmental distruption, l By this fact human being of the 20th century was to overcome social com-plexity. Accordingly their search for simplicity was interested in the 60's style. Especially the formativeness of the 60s style was repre-sented in the second half 20th century fashion. In this paper it was focused that how the characteristics of the Minimal Art was expressed in the second half 20th century fashion. minimalism was a quest for basic elements repesenting the fundamental esthetic values of art. without regard to issues of content. At its most extreme it reduced art not ot an eter-nal essence but to an arid simplicity. "Primary Structure" the most suitable name suggested for this type conveys its two salient characteristics : extreme simplicity of shapes and a kinship with architecture. minimalist works are charcterized by huge dimensions coldness and absolute aesthetic neutrality. minimalist artists ambition is to de-fine through the most rudimentary materials such as plywood galvanized iron aluminum plastic and wood a new order of the space. The environment is just as important as the object itself. Similary the use of new tough materials. such as vinyl metal and plastic at late half of the 20th century fashion related to the formativeness of the Minimal Art. And the style of 20th fashion was holded the internal meanings in common the formativeness of the Minimal Aet thorough the various texture pat-tern silhouette etc.uette etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.63-77
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to apply fashion design to developing dress design of mobile-phone game characters. As for the research methodology, first, market research has been carried out to extract main images from dress designs of game characters and to understand their socio-cultural meanings. Second, the fashion design, which ran be compared to the extracted images of game characters were selected. Third, analyses were done to find out the gap between the game character's dress designs and the fashion designs. The main images of game characters are revealed as erotic, romantic, heroic, grotesque. These images have been formed by psychological and socio-cultural effects such as stimulation, empathy, compensation, increase of female game player. The differences between the game character's dresses and the fashion designs are as follows; With regard to style, game dresses have silhouette distinguished from background, but fashion collection have blurred silhouette. In the aspect of color, while strong colors are mainly used in game dress, neutral rotors are preferred in fashion collection. As for texture, the expression of 'textures in game character's dress is so far limited due to the insufficient level of the concerned technology. However, the fashion design applying drape of fabrics are well-developed. Mobile-phone game players want reality in game design. Therefore, the effort to overcome the gaps between game dress and fashion design can contribute to the growth of game character design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.1-19
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• 1997

This thesis is a reflection of Korean aestheticism and how it has evolved and influenced Korean contemporary fashion throughout the last century. Up to the current, there have been five notable trends of fashion that have been influenced from and have reflected the qualities emblematic of various periods in Korean history. They can be characterized as the era of Missionary fashion, Uniform fashion, Salon fashion, Brand Name Fashion, and finally, fashion from the current era of diversification. The specific characteristics of each fashion era have been analized and illustrated in a comprehensive table. Design characteristics of Korean contemporary fashion are as follows : 1. A point of emphasis is given to facial feature, unconstructive design and ample silhouette and A silhouette, two-piece and pants. Korean style wrap skirt, a smooth curve and layered style. 2. Effect of flatness from material; as methods of quilting, reinforced dual stitching(Kaeki), patchwork, embroidery and goldfoil thread extra, it is turned up that texture of cloth stuff and effects of flatness. 3. Simple color combinations give effects in two different directions For instance, white and a variety of vivid colors, a dull color and bright colors, black, blue. 4. Over-design, diffusion of fashion. Based on the design characteristics described above, the essence of Korea's beauty consciousness can be captured and summarized through the following points: 1. Emotionalism and non-characterism: traditional and simple natural beauty and modernized natural beauty. 2. From authoritism to non-authoritism: traditional and formal personal beauty and casual characteristic beauty. 3. Polaris (antithesis) phenomenon: chastic beauty and ostentatious beauty, simplicity and lavishness, conformity of fashion and originality. Although the beauty consciousness of Korean contemporary fashion is changing from traditional passive metaphor to aesthetic expressionism for the new generation, after all the basic foundation or root of the spiritual beauty of idealism is usually recognized by focusing on the face.