• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.4
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• pp.19-33
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• 1997

This study will analyze Karl Largerfeld's design of Chanel to suggest the designer's strategy succeeding haute couture. His significant stylistic interests include the revealed structure of the garment, the modifications between fine art and fashion, the combination of the traditional restraint of the couture with the flourishes of the wildest street fashions and effects that turn garments upsides down or insides out. The House of Chanel today recognizes that commercial success ultimately lies in re-working Chanel's signature designs in a modern idiom. That the essence of theses designs remains so desirable is due to Karl Lagerfeld's successful interpretation and is ultimately an accolade to the founder-Gabrielle Chanel. During the reign of Coco it would have been difficult for any woman who wanted to look young and modern to go wrong with her fashions. The same can be said of Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel today. Clothes with the Chanel imprimatur no doubt will remain just as fashionable into the twenty-first century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.10
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• pp.1215-1227
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• 2011

The recent craze for so-called skinny jeans is illustrative of the restraint of the body through dress. This phenomenon is noteworthy when considering the internalization of the corset in contemporary fashion. Grown out of the garments of soundly practical use, blue jeans have led the stream of fashion for about 150 years and now they serve as the new corset idealizing the female body in the form of skinny jeans. This study intends to examine the idealization of the body in contemporary fashion and focus on skinny jeans as an externalized corset. The struggle with corsets continues in that the real body is overwhelmed by fashion items. In the aspect of idealizing the body by constraining the body parts, skinny jeans externalize the control of the body as contemporary corsets. This study conducts literature research and content analysis as the method of investigation and focuses on women's fashion from the 20th century. Exerting a harmful influence on health (as corsets have done) the body in skinny jeans is regarded as a modifiable entity. The thinness of the body achieved by skinny jeans suggests the controlling power over the body. Moreover, this gives access to the power presented by the contemporary ideal of thinness. Skinny jeans are modern day glass slippers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.677-688
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to find out the symbolism of religious costume which has showed the religious belief system through costume practice and culture. Indian Religious costume each has its own mark was investigated in this study. In India, religion is a way of life. It is an integral part of the entire Indian tradition. The results were as follows; India's several main religions are Hinduism(About 80% of population) , Islam (About 11% of population) , Sikhism(less than 2% of population) , Jainism(less than 1% of population) , Buddhism(less than 1% of population) and Christianity(About 3% of population but excluding here) Religious faith system which symbolized Godhood, spiritualty, ascetics, restraint, chastity, sacred and dignity gave a certain shape to each color, ornaments, dressing and marking of religion costume. In connection with religion costumes, there were Hindu's Tika, sacred ash, long hair, knot and holy band (Yajnopavita) , Buddhist's kayysa and tonsures, Jams' no covering, Muslim's chador and skullcap, Sikh's turban (with no cutting hair) , comb, steel bracelet, drawers, sword or dagger. The characteristics, head especially of thebody and white in the colors were made much account for India religion costume. Traditional costume seems to be worn at the present times in India. But apparently these costume associated with religion costume because of Hindu more than 80% of population.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.958-967
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• 2009

Just as various religions of the world have multiple systems based on their own belief system respectively, religious costumes, which are the expression of religion, are varied in forms according to different religions. Nonetheless, this research attempts to examine the universal features of the variety of religious costumes. Since the range of this research is broad and the limit of study is clear, this research confines the study objects into world's four high religions. The purposes of this research are as followings; first, the investigation of the world's high religions, second, the study of the figurative attributes of religious costume to study and discuss the universality of figurative beauty and aesthetic value. Figurative attributes are distinct in religious costume. First, the non structural feature of composition, and the manner in which the costume is worn. Second, the rich silhouette covering the body. Third, the restraint and inhibition of decoration, and fourth, the preference of achromatic color and monotones. 'The beauty of concealing', derived from the religious absolute and chastity, 'The beauty of chastity' influenced by the restraint of decoration and design, and 'The beauty of nature' as the drapery and non structural feature are the universal aesthetic values. Human beings tend to contact the divine beings by pursuing the essential thing and concealing the body through religion. The forms of concealment and chastity, mentioned above are reflected in the usual costumes, affected by religion as well as religious costume.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.54-62
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• 1989

The woven fabric composed of nylon 6 filaments was treated with aqueous solutions (20, 30, 40, 50, 60%) of formic acid at 3$0^{\circ}C$ for 10 minutes under unrestrained condition, and the shrinkage behavior and some kinds of properties were examined. The shrinkages of the constituent yarns and fabric were increased with formic acid concentration, but they were lower than that of the original filaments because of fabric-structural factors. And the shrinkage of the warp was lower than that of the weft because of the residual stress from weaving process. By the restraint forces such as fabric-structural factors and residual stress, the constituent filaments were damaged partially at 60% of formic acid concentration and the degree of damage on the warp was greater than on the weft. And though the fabric count were increased overall, the spacing between the warps was decreased prior to the weft and eliminated nearly at 60% of formic acid concentration. The thickness, tensile strength, elongation, and handle value of fabric were increased overall with formic acid concentration excepting that the tensile strength for both the warp and weft directions and the elongation for the warp direction were decreased instead by the damage of yarns. But the crease recovery was decreased except the case of the weft direction at 60% of formic acid concentration.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.31-42
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• 1999

The category killer that has been rapidly growing mainly in advanced countries since early 1990's, is a mew distribution model which aims for obtaining market controlling power by surpassing competing businesses in a specific area of products. The domestic situation of category killers is very different from that of advanced ones abroad since it has just been introduced into the Korean market. At the moment, there are only 10 or so companies operating in the market : Geopyung's , Taeheng's , Midopa's , of Sinsegye Department store, adn of Yerim International. The purpose of this study is to examine problems of domestic companies in the present market by analysing the operation status of category killers in domestic markets as well as foreign ones, and to suggest a counter-strategy of category killers for the distribution environment of the 21st century to improve the competitiveness of Korean distribution industry. The competitiveness of category killers lies above all in products lines. Category killers are equipped with the greatest number of products lines among those of competing businesses due to maximized product selections in an limited range. Another source of competitiveness may be found in balanced strategy positioning. That is to say, category killers are in a position where they can adjust policies towards any of the three purposes while aiming at them altogether : prices of discount stores, products range of specialty stores, and customer service level of department stores. It is also necessary for efficient store operation to use information technology such as electronic data interchange (EDI), electronic pose system(EPOS) and electronic funds transfer (EFTPOS). As for the cost structure, category killers can gain an advantage over other business since operating cost of various sections can be saved. There are, however, certain risks that category killers with strong competitiveness may influence on other businesses a great deal and even facilitate their decline. Yet it seems that the growth of category killers will be more viciously restrained by continuous challenges from other businesses. The distribution industry is supposed to develop through such competition and restraint.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.181-188
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• 2005

This study attempted to investigate the plastic characteristics of cyber punk fashion with a focus on fashion in the cyber punk movies in order to inquire into how the influence of the cyber punk taking the lead in the spiritual culture and way of life of the humankind in the 21th century would be expressed in fashion. For this purpose, it sought to analyze the beauty of new fashion creating the cyber environment and identify its contemporary meaning. An attempt was made to investigate the image of cyber punk fashion with a focus on fashion expressed in the cyber punk movies. As a result, the following findings were obtained: First, the image of cyber punk fashion expressed in the cyber punk movies was simplicity, which was to express the modest silhouette and details exclusive of decoration. In addition to clean and smooth gloss, it contained the modest image of resistance', not 'revolt' by borrowing the partial motive and image from existing punk fashion. The change of cyber punk fashion into the characteristic of concise, smooth external appearance brought about the restraint of its image and symbolism as well as its plastic characteristic. Second, it was characterized by the Eroticism nature of emphasizing the body line while expressing the future and modest image or exposing the body. Cyber punk fashion expressed the avant-garde image by using materials that gave a mysterious and future feelings, as well as unsymmetrical silhouette, the slit of body-conscious line, coarse cutting, the method of do-constructing and reconstructing the silhouette, the method of applying diverse underwears such as corset, brassiere and the like. Third, cyber punk fashion was marked by the nature of mined sex. It had the masculine image by using the black color containing the image of masculinity and resistance in female clothing and expressing the suit, coat and military looks giving an masculine impression. And it expressed the image of mixed sexes with the masculine image in male clothing by borrowing feminine images such as body-conscious line, widely cut neckline, floral decoration, leggings and the like. Fourth, cyber punk fashion was marked by naturalness. It was expressed as clothing made from silhouette, knit, cotton and the like in the atmosphere expressing love, comfortableness and truth. This contained the image of naturalness, a return to the primitive, that human being wanted to return to their original figure in the future element. The cyber punk movie may contain a dismal, gloomy future image on the whole, which can be overcome, and shows the possibility that it may grow into the alternative culture, not the revolting culture. The movie of 'The Fifth Element' demonstrates the meaning and role that shows the bright future image. It is thought that designers should make efforts for cyber punk fashion to perform its role in changing the gloomy future image into the bright image of society

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.47-57
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• 2007

This study focused on the properties natural dyeing and natural material and on the development of functional material for well-being in apparel industry. Comus officinalis Siebold et Zuccarini is used as natural dyeing material which had been reported that have curable effect for unbalanced immunity, geriatric diseases like urinary tract system, diabetes, hypertension, arthritis, tinnitus, hyperhidrosis and women's diseases like hypermenorrhea. And this material also has anti-cancer effect so that can restraint cancer cells. 3 kinds tester of cotton, wool and silk are dyed by boiled with each dye (flower, fruits, bark of tree) as first dyeing and dried in the shade. These testers are done by post-mordanting method. Aluminium Potassium(Alk(SO4)2), Cuprie Sulfate($CuSO4{\cdot}5H2O$), Stannous Chloride($SnCl2{\cdot}2H2O$), Ferrous Sulfate($FeCl2{\cdot}4H2O$), Titanium Sulfate 24% aqueous solution(Ti(SO4)2) are used as mordants. Dyeing results of Comus officinalis Siebold et Zuccarini flower and bark are shown as yellow color series. And dyeing result of fruits is pink color series. Silk shows the best dyeing property. As the point of view for dyeing property, Ti, Sn, Fe would be the properchoice for mordant. Following results are extracted in this study. Yellow color is resulted in dyeing with Cornus officinalis flower as non-mordanting condition. Yellowish red color is come from dyeing with Comus officinalis fruit as non-mordanting condition. Grayish yellow tone is resulted in dyeing with bark as non-mordanting condition. Orange tone color with Ti-mordanting, green tone color with Sn-mordanting and gray tone color with Fe-mordanting is resulted respectively. However light-fastness of Comus officinalis(flower, fruit, bark) is very low as 1 or 2 level in non-mordanting condition, Comus officinalis flower dyeing is turned out 3 or 4 level and fruit dyeing is 4 or 5 level, bark dyeing is 2 or 3 level with Ti-mordanting respectively. Eventually Comus officinalis fruit has the best light-colorfastness property among all of dyes. dry cleaning colorfastness of Cornus officinalis(flower, fruit, bark) is good as 4 or 5 level in Ti-mordanting condition, perspiration-colorfastness of Cornus officinalis(flower, fruit, bark) is good as 4 or 5 level in Ti-mordanting condition, With these results, this study could conclude that dye-ability, colorfastness problem is getting better after mordanting process and practical usage would be possible.

• The Transactions of The Korean Institute of Electrical Engineers
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• v.66 no.7
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• pp.1141-1148
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• 2017

Generally, a thermistor made by sintering a metal oxide is widely used to measure the ambient temperature. This thermistor is widely used not only for industrial use but also for medical use because of its excellent sensitivity, durability, temperature change characteristics and low cost. In particular, the normal body temperature is 36.9 degrees relative to the armpit temperature, and it is most closely related to the circulating blood flow. Previous studies have shown that body temperature changes during biomechanical changes and body temperature changes by anomalous signs or illnesses. Therefore, in this study, we propose a Lock-In-Amp design to detect minute temperature changes of clothing and thermistor wired by a preacher as a method to regularly measure body temperature in daily life. Especially, it is designed to measure the minute resistance change of the thermistor according to body temperature change even in a low-cost microprocessor environment by using a micro-processor-based Lock-In-Amp, and a jacquard and the thermistor is arranged so as to be close to the side, so that the reference body temperature can be easily measured. The temperature was measured and stored in real time using short-range wireless communication for non - restraint temperature monitoring. A baby vest was made to verify its performance through temperature experiments for infants. The measurement of infant body temperature through the existing skin sensor or thermometer has limitations in monitoring infant body temperature for a long time without restriction. However, it can be overcome by using the embroidery fabric based micro temperature monitoring wireless monitoring device proposed in this study.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.193-202
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• 2012

With entering the 21st century, modern people's dark inside and panic are emerging as the talking point on the theater stage. Even in the field of stage costume, the necessity of a research is being demanded through analyzing on psychological anguish and structure of characters. Accordingly, this study aims to allow the stage costume design to be expressed a human being's Doppelg$\ddot{a}$nger Image, which was elicited through analyzing a work of the play titled Le Grand C$\acute{e}$r$\acute{e}$monial by a playwriter Fernando Arrabal, who draws the conflictory and contradictory duplicity, which positions in a human being's deep inside by having chaos as catalyst. A research subject is 'Le Grand C$\acute{e}$r$\acute{e}$monial,' which was staged as the winter performance in commemoration of the 50th anniversary for the foundation of Dept. of Theater, Chung-Ang Univ. in November 2009. Psychology of characters in a play, which varies dimensionally, could be delivered, as nonverbal element called costume, by applying costume design of Cavanoza, Syl, Nice to Doppelg$\ddot{a}$nger Image such as Innocence vs Cruelty, Purity vs Superficiality and Restraint vs Freedom, which were elicited through analyzing characters. Through this study, the costume, which was expressed by visualizing a human being's Doppelg$\ddot{a}$nger Image, could be known to function as important dramatic factor of allowing character's psychology to be understood through costume as well as functioning as visual and sensible language, which is important for communication with the audience. A research on costume design, which reflects a character's complex inside, is expected to be likely continued through in-depth analysis on a playwriter's intention and on the appearing characters at the current point of time when an active research is being performed on stage costume in the wake of this study.