• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권1호
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• pp.99-111
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• 2012

This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Horniman Museum in London. The Museum holds eighteen items of Korean dresses donated by Mrs. C. de J. Luxmore in 1948 and by Mrs. Bowra in 1953. Male dresses consist of white silk outer robe (durumagi), a pale violet silk waistcoat (jokki), a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), pale yellow silk trousers (baji), a pair of ankle bands (daenim), a cotton waistband (dae), a silk purse (jumeoni), a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja), a pair of rattan wristlets (deungtosi), a top hat (gat) and a skullcap (tanggeon). Female dresses comprise a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), an ivory silk skirt (chima), a light blue silk petticoat (sokchima), two kinds of white cotton trousers (sokbaji and soksokgot), a pair of silk wristlets (tosi) and a pair of padded socks (beoseon). A Korean dress collection of the Horniman Museum shows a set of ordinary dress items worn by a married couple in the 1930s and the 1940s. Of these items, a silk petticoat (sokchima) and a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja) can be highly evaluated as object resources in the history of Korean dress. The petticoat is a rare and valuable example that represents an early type of modern petticoat that has replaced a traditional petticoat (dansokgot). The rattan under-vest has square neckline and two tiny sleeves similar to a Western cap sleeve. This kind of under-vest is a transitional form shown between under-vest similar to the Korean waistcoat (baeja) and one similar to the Western waistcoat (jokki).

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제50권6호
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• pp.55-64
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• 2012

This study aims to reinterpret formative elements of Baeja, by applying them to the design of modern clothing. The main objective of the studying Baeja is to propose unique layered look items that can be readily put together for various weather conditions and occasions, be easily wearable and bring out unique individualities. After carefully studying Baeja from Joseon dynasty, flexible and practical layered-look items are designed. The following are the conclusions drawn from the work. First, it is possible to apply Baeja elements, such as the silhouette, traditional materials, and colors, to modern clothes, for a layered-look. Second, Baeja characteristics have a profound potential for a modern layered-look design, in that it is sleeveless, its length is long at the front and short at the back, and it comes with slits on both sides and a wide belt. The items inspired by such characteristic can easily be worn over and draped around daily clothes, according to weather conditions and occasions. Third, many decorative elements of Baeja, including detailed ornamental method, knots, patchworks, and string decorations create a unique and traditional image in modern clothes. Ribbonswhich can adjust the width of clothes are both practical and decorative. A reversible jacket is created by utilizing the same traditional sewing method for both inner and outer fabrics. One item can be worn in different styles, which increases practicality. Fourth, traditional and modern materials go well together. Such methods can create an item with both modern sensibility and traditional chic.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.221-229
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• 2017

This study researched the needs of smart fashion items using energy harvesting for outdoor wearers and surveyed the application areas and design preferences for energy-harvesting systems based on outdoor activities. A total of 217 subjects were surveyed. Subjects who had at least 3 years of experience in outdoor activities were selected in order to increase the reliability of the research results. The survey investigated lifestyles based on outdoor activities, outdoor clothing and electronic equipment usage, purchase style, utilization plan, and design preference for energy-harvesting clothing and supplies. The results showed that 62.7% of the respondents had experience in outdoor activities for more than five years. 96.3% of the subjects carried electronic equipment, and 179 participants(82.5%) experienced discomfort due to battery consumption/dead batteries during outdoor activities. 78.4% were interested in smat fashion items using energy-harvesting technology, and the energy-conversion technology that was useful for outdoor activities was "kinetic energy"(74.7%). Participants showed a high preference for a detachable type(30.9%) and a city type(69.1%) that can be worn in outdoor activities as well as in general life. The preferred location of the electric power-charging device was the "Hem area of top garment"(35.9%), and the reason for this selection was that it was easy to operate and did not interfere with movement. The data from this paper can be used as a basis for product planning and product design for energy-harvesting apparel designers and supply developers for outdoor clothing.

• 복식
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• 제61권1호
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• pp.20-33
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• 2011

This study aims to analyze the expressive aspect of men's shirts through examining the characteristics of men's shirts with the trend of men's clothing well represented and considering the image based on high fashion. As a method of study, I have conducted the theoretical study through the literature data, and the content analysis through photographs from S/S collection in 2005 to F/W collection in 2010. Especially, in the recent men's shirts, the materials of glossy silk, wavering chiffon and jersey tend to appear and various images are represented with the tasteful decoration such as ruffle, pin tuck and embroidery together with pastel color. Thus, the result of this study is as follows: Firstly, the masculine and romantic images are researched as the image emphasizing the beautiful and soft masculine beauty which doesn't lose the masculinity even though they are seasonedwith the feminine elements. Soft masculine beauty is emphasized by using romantic image decoration of frills, beads and pin tuck or silk, jersey and openwork materials etc. Secondly, practical fusion images have been studied as the images emphasizing the freshness with practicality through grafting more than two items onto one shirt. Many designs have appeared representing new shapes by grafting more than two items onto one shirt or obscuring the border line between the items. Thirdly, the avant-garde chic images have been researched as the image emphasizing the chick image through representing unique and odd designs by excessively expressing the silhouette in general shapes of shirts. I come. to find that the mainly the designs, emphasizing the uniqueness and the distinction with transformed shapes of sleeves, cuffs and the length of shirts in exaggerated manners, are appearing. Thus, I intend to provide a reference material which will be useful for the newly created design and researches of figurative characteristics in the future fashion.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권8호
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• pp.933-945
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• 2011

This research proposes a pattern design method for 24 pleated skirts in order to develop an automatic draft program for pleated skirts that will enhance fit and enable mass production. The research method and results are outlined as follow. 1. Three-dimensional body measurements were conducted on 30 randomly selected women in their 20s. By using 34 body measurement items and 6 types of calculations among the items, the items required in the designing of an original pleated skirt were extracted. They were then interpreted through correlation analysis, variance analysis, a t-test, linear regression analysis and multiple regression analysis. 2. An extra amount was added to the waist measurement and external capsule measurement according to the number of times the pleats coincided and the thickness of the fabric by the degree of polymerization of the horizontal cross section (the test of this research: 0.518mm). The extra amount of waist measurement was 3.6cm while the hip measurement was 4.3cm larger than the hip measurement combined with the external capsule measurement and the extra amount. 3. Based on the ${\pm}$standard deviation/2 as the average of the difference between the external capsule measurement and waist measurement, the subjects were classified into 3 somatotypes. Somatotype 1 presented an average total length of waist darts of 23.6cm while that of somatotype 2 was 26.2cm and that of somatotype 3 was 30.2cm. It has been confirmed that there is a significant difference among somatotypes in the total length of waist darts from the front center to the front side and the total length of waist darts from the side to the back center in terms of the average amount of waist darts for every 12 parts on the WL.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.83-96
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to offer the basic data for chinese men' clothing construction. This study analyzes characterization and classification of body types of the Chinese men with body measurement values. This researcher executed the body measurement of total 39 items on 414 chinese men in Beijing and Shanghai aged 20-49 years old and analyzed the data with methods of analysis of variance, factor analysis and cluster analysis using it as the study item. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. As the result of comparative analysis of the body measurements by age group and region group, the horizontal items such as the widths, depths, and girths increased with advancing ages, while heights decreased. 2. As the result of factor analysis on the items, 5 factors on such as the first factor on the obesity of body, the second factor on the size of vertical of body, the third factor on the length of upper body, the forth factor on the width of the shoulder, the fifth factor on the degree of dropping shoulder were extracted. 3. As the result of classification based on the cluster analysis, the body type were classified into 5 types. So, to see the feature of body form by types, type 1 was small stature, short parts of the body. type 2 was tallest, fattest and type 3 was small stature, fat. type 4 was tall, long length arm and leg, thick waist. type 5 was tall, long length arm and leg, fat.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.184-193
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• 2016

This study investigates the recognition and preference of functional textile material about outdoor clothing widely used in the current fashion market. The study targeted 216 males and females in their 20s to 50s who wear outdoor clothing as casual wear. To analyze data, frequency analysis, cross tabulation analysis and ANOVA were conducted with the SPSS 21.0 statistical package. The results are as follows. First, recognition of functional textile material of outdoor clothing showed that 20s was the lowest preference and all age groups preferred lightweight textile material. In information recognition of functional outdoor clothing, 40s showed the highest recognition, while 20s showed the lowest recognition. Second, 40s and 50s preferred functional material to 20s and 30s. In particular, 40s and 50s preferred clothing items with water vapor permeability & water repellent material to 20s and 30s. All age groups preferred insulation material jumpers, water vapor permeability & water repellent material jumpers and stretch pants. Third, reasons for purchasing functional material clothing was: design for the age group 20s and 30s versus health and function for the age group 40s and 50s. It is necessary to develop functional clothing products based on exact consumer information and preferences.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제43권2호
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• pp.105-114
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• 2005

The purpose of this study wasisto investigate the influence of attitude toward sex and body satisfaction in the on interest, preference, and buying intention of body exposed clothing among female university students. The Susubject were 397 female students from 3 different universities in Seoul. The instruments of this study wereconsisted of response scale and stimuli. Thirty-four four items on a of 5-point Likert scale were used to measure the attitude towards sex and body satisfaction The stimuli were 6 types of different body exposed clothing style on line drawing. The results were as follow; 1. Most female students were liberal in sexual attitude and had a high level of body satisfaction. Especially, younger students were more liberal than older students. 2. Designs with the greatest interest, preference and that were most interested in, prefer and had buying intention were Camisole, V-neckline and low-neckline designed clothes. 3. Attitude toward sexual value has a strong effect on interest, preference, and buying intention of body exposed clothing. And also ilneterest of body exposed clothing has more effect on buying intention than preference.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.81-88
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• 2007

This study aimed to develop priorities alternatives based on relative rather than absolute assignments on clothing evaluative criteria. The relative comparison approach includes much redundancy and is thus less sensitive to judgemental errors common to techniques using absolute assignments. By deriving evaluative criteria for consumers in choosing clothing, and considering their relative important or value in the priority of evaluation elements. When the consumer selects clothing, it requires multi-criteria decision making exercise and needs to make trade-offs between different alternatives. With an application of the AHP's hierarchical structuring and pair-wise comparisons, this study will determine the weight and priorities of evaluation factor in clothing evaluative criteria in choosing cloth, which will eventually lead to improve management. Items for the setting priority were decided as 'symbol', 'practicality', 'economy', 'vogue', and 'aesthetic' by council. The data for this research were collected from respondents of 108 females in Busan. Data were analyzed by frequency and AHP. As the results, 'economy' was decided as a most important item. And 'a fashionable color' evaluated as that of first priority in the totality evaluation elements.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.68-75
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• 2008

Demands and attempts to express Korean traditional beauty are increasing. Some schools choose the uniform in designs expressing the image of Hanbok, but recently there is a few increment of wearing the uniforms. For the improvement of the uniforms, first of all, the shape and the clothing materials of the uniforms should be considered. We have compared and analyzed the shape and the clothing materials of the uniforms reflecting the image of Hanbok, according to seasons and clothing items. The uniforms reflecting the image of Hanbok were worn in eight schools and all of them are Saenghwal Hanbok style. The shape of Saenghwal Hanbok school uniforms showed both Korean style and western style characteristics. Korean style characteristics were expressed through the appearance-related parts while western style characteristics showed through the performance-related parts such as open/closure method, armhole pattern and straight sleeve line. It was shown that girls' uniforms are more diverse and similar to the western style uniforms than boys' uniforms. It was found that most of the clothing material were synthetic fiber or mixture of natural/synthetic fiber, and polyester was shown to be used most.