Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회지)

The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회)
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A Study on a Pattern Design for Pleated Skirts Based on the Amount of Waist Darts by Somatotype

체형별 허리 다트량을 활용한 플리츠 스커트 원형 설계에 관한 연구

  • Lee, Jung-Hwa (Dept. of Fashion & Living Environment, Bunka Gakuen University) ;
  • Maruta, Naomi (Dept. of Textile & Clothing, Kyoritsu Women's University) ;
  • Hirokawa, Taeko (Dept. of Fashion & Living Environment, Bunka Gakuen University)
  • Received : 2011.03.31
  • Accepted : 2011.06.08
  • Published : 2011.08.31
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Abstract

This research proposes a pattern design method for 24 pleated skirts in order to develop an automatic draft program for pleated skirts that will enhance fit and enable mass production. The research method and results are outlined as follow. 1. Three-dimensional body measurements were conducted on 30 randomly selected women in their 20s. By using 34 body measurement items and 6 types of calculations among the items, the items required in the designing of an original pleated skirt were extracted. They were then interpreted through correlation analysis, variance analysis, a t-test, linear regression analysis and multiple regression analysis. 2. An extra amount was added to the waist measurement and external capsule measurement according to the number of times the pleats coincided and the thickness of the fabric by the degree of polymerization of the horizontal cross section (the test of this research: 0.518mm). The extra amount of waist measurement was 3.6cm while the hip measurement was 4.3cm larger than the hip measurement combined with the external capsule measurement and the extra amount. 3. Based on the ${\pm}$standard deviation/2 as the average of the difference between the external capsule measurement and waist measurement, the subjects were classified into 3 somatotypes. Somatotype 1 presented an average total length of waist darts of 23.6cm while that of somatotype 2 was 26.2cm and that of somatotype 3 was 30.2cm. It has been confirmed that there is a significant difference among somatotypes in the total length of waist darts from the front center to the front side and the total length of waist darts from the side to the back center in terms of the average amount of waist darts for every 12 parts on the WL.

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References

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