• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.32-43
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to analyze the granny look of the new-tro trend via Alessandro Michele's Gucci collection and to provide a reference standard for future design developments by identifying the representation of the granny look. To analyze the new-tro trend and the granny look, basic concepts were analyzed through aesthetic and art books and the photographic data were collected through Internet sites. A total of 186 fashion images were considered as granny look by five clothing experts. The images were subdivided into silhouettes and items, materials, patterns, and colors to analyze the modeling factors and identify the intrinsic inner meaning based on the theory of Nostalgia. The analysis showed that the silhouette was expressed naturally without exaggeration or shrinkage. The thermosetting materials included fur, velvet, knit and quilted materials, while the colors showed raw and faded shades based on the use of natural colors. The patterns were mostly natural, such as flowers, leaves, and stalks, which were aimed at nature. The inner meaning of the granny look is based on the theory of Nostalgia, primarily because it is an emotional fairy tale and second, it reflected the sessions of nature. Also, it is a reinterpretation of the narrative. In conclusion, the academic and fashion industries need to understand the various emerging trends in accordance with the social and cultural backgrounds to derive a positive benefit.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.240-249
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• 2020

This study reviews studies that used skin temperature in order to establish an emotion evaluation protocol based on skin temperature for home appliances. A survey of skin temperature evaluation papers was conducted by the following five stages: (1) keyword search, (2) title screening, (3) abstract screening, (4) full paper screening, and (5) relevance evaluation. Selected papers were reviewed for: purpose, recruitment criteria of participants, the number of participants, apparatus, procedure, measures, analysis methods, and major findings. Thermistor sensors and thermography are used for the measurement of skin temperature. Skin temperature sensors are attached to 4 - 10 locations on the body and their mean of skin temperature is calculated by Ramanatan's 4-point or Hardy & Dubois's 7-point method. Semantic differential (SD) method and thermography measuring facial surface temperature have been used for emotion evaluation. The SD method provides a set of adjective pairs related to a product and evaluates changes in emotion from the use of the product. The range of facial surface analyzed is defined in the thermal image and temperature changes before and after the evaluation are analyzed. The evaluation items of home appliances include form, color, material, aesthetics, satisfaction, novelty, convenience, pleasantness, and excellence. Many existing emotion studies using skin temperature do not apply physiological and psychological methods. This study provides basic data to establish a skin temperature and emotion evaluation protocol by examining literature for skin temperature and evaluation of sensitivity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.54-68
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• 2006

Suhainmyuldo (樹下人物圖) is a type of picture which expresses a person under the tree and is known to be brought to the Korean Peninsula from the Middle Asia. The origin of this kind of expression is assumed to be from Iykshini (or Iygsha), the fairy of tree, in India and the 'Tree of Life' in Western Asia which influenced on the craft art design of Chinese art. However, Chinese art had already developed the motif of this kind in its unique way; for example, Jookrimchilhundo (竹林七賢圖: seven wise men in bamboo forest) in the Six Dynasty. There are only two items of female dress and its ornament from the 4th to 6th century Suhainmyuldo of the Goguryeo ancient tomb mural: one from the Jangchun Tomb No. 1 in which a female figure is portrayed as a part of living genre painting and the other from the Anahk Tomb No. 1 with seven female figures in a painting which is one of the earliest Suhainmyuldos, presumably from the 4th century. These two paintings must be considered in parallel with the origin of Suhainmyuldo. The mountain wizard's dress and Men's dress and its ornament in Suhainmyuldo from the 4th to the late 6th century Goguryeo ancient tomb is mostly joint adjust in which its collar is connected by a line and almost all the wizards are wearing Sang (upper garment). Most mountain wizards are wearing black feather shaped jackets and upper garments. One noticeable observation is that the mountain wizards of Mooyongchong, Tongu Ohgoibun Nos. 4 and 5 are completely different from one another in terms of ways to dress each wizard's official hats and shoes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.45-59
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• 2016

This research is a study to develop basic block patterns for adult males. The subjects were 20 men in their 20s, and we tested 6 basic bodice blocks that are used in academia and industry. First, a comparative analysis of the patterns of the bodice blocks was conducted and the test garments were made, and then their appearances were evaluated during wearing tests. Based on the test results, we intended to select a bodice block that is a good fit when it is put on and to use it as basic data in order to design a man's bodice block for the future. The research results are as follows: First, a comparison of the 6 bodice block drafts showed that they used differently calculated ease allowances at chest circumference and width, waist circumference, shoulder length, etc. for which the upper chest circumference is used as a reference. Second, when the appearances of the test garments were tested, the average scores were high in the order of B> H> P> K> M> L. Pattern B was superior in the areas of the neck circumference and shape, ease allowance at the back of the neck, circumference of the front of the neck, location of side width, ease allowance at sides, armhole width and depth. But in the other test items, there were cases where other patterns were superior.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.107-116
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to compare the pattern of two men's pants for education and two for industry, and to analyze the patterning method that is most suitable for the body shape of middle-aged men. As a result of appearance evaluation for 3D simulation, J pattern was evaluated as the best in most items, and H pattern was analyzed to be the most inappropriate. As a result of measuring the airgap, all four patterns of the waist circumference were evaluated to have very small airgap, and the J pattern had the smallest airgap for the pants. J pattern was analyzed as the most suitable pattern for middle-aged men's body shape by synthesizing the appearance evaluation of virtual wear, color distribution, sectional view, airgap, etc. However, in the case of J pattern, it was analyzed that the pants length needs to be modified. Since this study compared and analyzed only two patterns for education and two for industry, it is thought that the development of pants for middle-aged men should be developed through actual wearing experiments with J patterns.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.993-1008
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• 2011

Traditional culture could be a wonderful source of inspiration for creative design. Tteoksal, the stamps used for making decorative patterns on traditional rice-cakes, have been used and passed on to generations to show the emotions of our ancestors. Numerous traditional patterns found in Tteoksal can be used to better understand and transmit tradition in modern ways. The purpose of this study was to develop fashion cultural products with a modern sensibility by understanding the origin, types and characteristics of Tteoksal and its patterns. The method of this study was through considering the proceeding studies and the references published by a specialist and museums having some information about further knowledge on Tteoksal. In line with the aforementioned study, neckties, eco-friendly bags and pouches were developed as fashion goods. Among the Tteoksal's patterns selected were lotus, bats, 樂 letters and complex patterns. Using a computer graphic software program such as Adobe Illustrator CS5, archetypes of patterns were traced as vector graphics, and two design motives were developed in every pattern. The patterns were developed into two types: one was a basic pattern faithful to a basic motive pattern, and the other was a varied type that was changed and applied. The fashion products were developed as two styles for basic and varied patterns for neckties, eco-friendly bags and pouch items. Twelve products were made for each pattern, which totals 48 unique products. In conclusion, the study could be a critical step to better understand the traditional culture and its influence to the patterns applied to modern fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.209-224
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• 2014

This study aims to compare the ease of shirt patterns in the men's wear market that have been constantly developing, and to analyze the fitness and appearance through the 3D virtual try-on system. The study selected three industrial patterns and two educational materials of classic-fit and slim-fit shirts for a total of ten items. The experiments involved virtual wearing, a stress contact point perspective map, and appearance evaluations. First, the ease differed significantly in the chest, waist, and sleeve cap height according to the patterns. Second, based on the stress, contact point, and transparency, there was ease in the order of Nam, D-brand, J-brand, Park, and S-brand in the classic-fit shirts while the order of D-brand, Nam, J-brand, Park, and S-brand resulted in the slim-fit shirts. Third, in the appearance evaluation, higher points resulted in the order of J-brand, Park, S-brand, D-brand, and Nam in both classic-fit and slim-fit. The results showed that proper ease differs greatly by shirt-fit and target age. Also, the shirts with more ease tended to be evaluated less favorably in the appearance evaluation. Based on the results, the study suggests that the proper ease in chest circumference is 18cm for the classic-fit shirts and 6 cm for the slim-fit shirts.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.360-376
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• 2018

The purpose of this study was to make a pants pattern suitable for women 70 to 85 years of age, then analyze that- pattern's shape, size, appearance, fit, allowance and air gap. Participants made the pattern using 3D simulation program DC Suite version 5.1. The results suggest a design method suitable for the lower-body shapes of elderly women. In external appearance, the A-type earned the highest evaluation in all items except the allowance of the back waist and back hip. The L type earned the highest evaluation in the allowance of back waist and hips. The A-type's, back waist appeared set at an angle that did not match the body shape of an old-old aged woman in the center-back-line setting. Therefore, the pattern method of A-type combined with L-type's method of center back, produces an excellent pants pattern. Evaluation of the air gaps among patterns revealed that; the A-type showed the largest air gap in waist and hip circumference and the smallest air gap in thigh circumference. The waists, abdomen, and hip circumferences of older women often become larger while their legs become slimmer. This study accounted for those factors in determining a pattern suitable for the lower-body shape of old-old aged women. However, participants only analyzed four patterns and compared them with women 70 to 85, years of age. Therefore, it is necessary to develop industrial patterns applicable to a wide age group.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.551-568
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• 2007

The purposes of this study were to identify factors of dissatisfaction and complaining behavior in internet fashion shopping mall, and to investigate constructs of service recovery for solution to this problems. Data were obtained from 201(male: 87, female: 114) internet fashion shopping mall consumer who have experiences of dissatisfaction and complaining behavior after buying products, and were analyzed using by descriptive analysis, factor analysis, Cronbach' $\alpha$, t-test. The results were as follows. First, the most response(80.4% of reponses) was experience to dissatisfaction through internet fashion shopping mall, and the most dissatisfied items were blouse, sweater, T-shirt in upper garment. Also, in men's case, the most satisfied price zone was not exceeding $30,000{\sim}50,000\;won$ and in women's case, it was not exceeding $20,000{\sim}30,000\;won$. Second, 7 factors of dissatisfaction(called quality, payment, delivery, price, interaction, returning/changing/refunding, contract) were identified after purchasing fashion products from internet shopping mall. 3 factors of complaining behavior(called private action, legal action, remedial seeking action) were investigated. Third, constructs of perceived service recovery were extracted from literature review: perceived interaction and justice. Perceived interaction were categorized into two factors: the interaction on the part of the consumer, the interaction in the part of the shopping mall. And perceived justice were categorized into three factors: interactional justice, distributive justice, procedural justice. Usually, university students were likely to take a serious view of service recovery through interaction and justice with internet fashion shopping mall.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.645-653
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• 2019

Laundry services are becoming more specialized and diversified. Therefore, this study investigated consumers' perceptions of professional laundry shops by analyzing social media data. For this purpose, text data from blogs, cafés, and Q&A sections ('Ji-Sik-In') on the portal site, naver.com, was collected. Sixty-four keywords were extracted from 2,213 social texts and transformed into a one-mode matrix using KrKwic, a program for the analysis of Korean text. Semantic network analysis was conducted to understand the network structure and the results were visualized using NodeXL. Keywords included fashion items and materials that require specialized professional laundry services, words related to the establishment of laundry shops, and laundry shop brands. Essential keywords of professional laundry shops included 'luxury,' 'footwear,' 'removal,' 'bag,' 'leather,' 'sneakers,' 'padding,' 'premium,' 'dyeing,' and 'franchise.' These results could be used to deduce that consumers perceive a professional laundry shop as a franchise shop offering specialized professional laundry services. A cluster analysis was conducted to identify the types of consumer perceptions of professional laundry shops. The network was divided into three groups: 'specialized professional laundry service,' 'laundry and repair of winter coats and jackets,' and 'the establishment of a professional laundry shop.' According to the results, consumers perceive professional laundry shops as franchises that offer specialized professional laundry services rather than general laundry services. Therefore, professional laundry shops need a strategy to develop special laundry services that differentiate them from other companies and communicate with consumers about these services.