• 복식
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• 제66권6호
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• pp.46-66
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• 2016

This thesis aims to analyze the costume changes according to the ideological transition through the portraits of Napoleon Bonaparte. This study selected 32 color pictures of Napoleon, which was taken during his time as a general to his ascension as Emperor (1785-1815). The study qualitatively analyzed the traits and costume elements in view of the items, color and ornaments of the costume, while studying the effects of the ideological transition. The costumes of Napoleon were categorized into three parts: general, governor and Emperor. Firstly, Napoleon most frequently wore the navy uniforms when taking the portraits as a general. The uniform gave Napoleon the image of strength, youth and intelligence, which reflected the ideology of enlightenment. Secondly, the red-colored administrator uniform, combined with a military coat with culotte, was worn to make the governor look intelligent, which would ascribe to the ideological demand of the enlightenment. Lastly, his portraits as emperor showed him in long white tunica, combined with red-colored coronation cape ornamented with embroidery, ermine fur, and the crown of laurel. This costume denoted both the enlightenment and also the neoclassical trend aspiring for the return to the Greek and Roman era. In this way, the portrait of Napoleon might be expected to reflect the periodical change of the ideology through describing the transition of the costumes. It might be evident that his image of the strong general changed to that of an intelligent governor, which was in demand when the enlightenment idea became popular. When Napoleon became the emperor, his image changed into that of a Roman emperor, which implies that neoclassical ideas were used as source of influence.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.159-179
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• 2006

This research checked about the necessity for the development of men's dress forms in the first investigation for the educational circle and the men's wear industry. Somatotype characteristics were analyzed in the second investigation of body measurement with the subjects of 200 male adults in their twenties residing in Busan. The following are the results of the present research to develop male dress forms for patternmaking: 1. In the group analysis for the characterization of front body types, three somatotypes were found and named H, Semi X, and Y. In the cluster analysis of side body types, four types were identified: D, I, d, and q. In the combination of front and lateral body types, four kinds were chosen: semi X-I, semi X-q, semi Y-I, and Y-q. 2. Through the comparison of plane figures by the plaster method as well as horizontal and vertical cross sections by the sliding gauge method, semi X-I was finally chosen as the standard somatotype for male dress form development. 3. Compared with the sliding gauge method of the present dress forms, the research dress form reflected better the shapes of the parts of the back and hips and the position of the waist, especially for males in their 20's. In addition, the dress form in the current research had superior points in all the items of clothing evaluation. Based on the above results, the sizes and models of the men's dress forms for patternmaking were developed.

• 복식
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• 제50권5호
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• pp.117-130
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• 2000

The purpose of this thesis is to offer basic data for clothing design which is intended to apply appropriate shape and capacity to clothes. The following are the analyzed results of an investigation which was conducted to characterize the upper half of the female body of 193 women whose ages are 18 to 25, taking part in this investigation. According to the results of analyzing young women's bust, I came to find a large individual difference of the wide varying factor numbers at the items of the side feature, the body stance, and the dart quantity. For the analysis of the female's upper body, 11 factors are used. The are as follows: Factor 1. width of the bust Factor 2. height of the bust and length of the arm Factor 3. side thickness of the bust and the upside type Factor 4. length of the bust on the front Factor 5. length of the bust on the back Factor 6. salient ratio of the breast Factor 7. width of the neck. the armhole, and measurement of the droop Factor 8. length of the shoulder Factor 9. flat ratio of the bust Factor 10. inclination of the shoulder factor 11. form of the back The shape of young women's upper bodies can be divided into four groups. The character ization of each group are as follows : Group 1 . 28.5% of the women who take part in this investigation belong to Group 1 These women have the shortest body, with a longer length of the front than the back and more thickness on the front than the back. Group 2. 21.1% of the women who take part in this investigation belong to this group. They show a longer length of the back and more thickness of the back than the front. In addition, this group is bent forward. Group 3. This group is the mast common type, showing the shortest and thickest character. 37.8% of the women who take part in this investigation have this bust character Group 4. 12.4% of the women belong to Group 4. They possess the highest and fattest character, skewing smaller necks, armholes, and waists than the other groups. This group also shows the drooping shoulders.

• 복식
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• 제66권3호
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• pp.107-120
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• 2016

This study examines functions in traditional Korean special costumes in accordance with the climatic factors of the Korean peninsula. The study focused on clothes worn by commoners during the Joseon dynasty. Climate change has been a major global issue in recent times, and it has been a hot topic in social, cultural, scientific, economic, and industrial communities. Studies have been conducted regarding the rapidly changing climate, and finding ways to cope with unusual temperatures. This thesis studies the development of special costumes in preparation for unusual climates, and requirements of the costume in accordance with the climatic factors, as well as the direction of its development. Its biggest significance lies in collecting and organizing the research data on special costume studies, and on costumes of the commoners, which have been fairly insufficient up to this point. After the Little Ice Age, the Joseon Dynasty period faced poor external environment due to unusual temperatures. The results of studying the costumes of the commoners are as follows: The climate of the Korean peninsula displayed different characteristics depending on the season, so the form, material, and appearance of the seasonal clothing items showed clear differences, and the difference in the crops cultivated according to the climate led to difference in material and material preference shown in the costumes. This meant that costumes differed based on region. In addition, difference in social hierarchy, regulations on costume according to class, and farming oriented social background during the period of Joseon dynasty slowed the development of costumes of commoners, but appears to have had a positive effect on the development of special costumes. We anticipate more succeeding studies on costumes of the commoners and special costumes in the future. We hope more costumes that can wisely respond to the approaching changes in temperature in the Korean peninsula can be designed via modernization of traditional Korean special costumes.

• 복식
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• 제66권8호
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• pp.98-108
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• 2016

Knitwear has been used as an active and functional clothing item due to its flexible and soft nature. Diverse design expressions have made knitwear into an essential fashion item for people today, who are constantly seeking for ways to display their individualism. The purpose of this study is to analyze the actual wearing conditions, and the preferred designs of knitwear for female college students in order to provide a baseline data, which can be used to develop knitwear designs for the subjects of the study. Survey by questionnaire of 135 female college students in 3 universities in Seoul were analysed. The results of the study are as follows: First, the most owned knitwear were sweaters and cardigans. Knitwear was viewed as soft and warm, as well as versatile. It was not restricted to certain sizes, and was comfortable to wear for different activities. Seound, the most preferred items were sweaters and cardigans. The most preferred styles were round neckline sweaters and open V-neckline cardigans. Third, the most preferred designs were plain designs with achromatic colors and wool-blended fabrics. The most preferred images were simple images. The most preferred fit was loose enough for little bit of room inside. Fourth, appropriateness and design of the knitwear were assessed during the purchasing stage. the most preferred method of purchase was purchasing via online stores after researching the knitwear through various channels, such as store visits and the Internet. The preferred price of knitwear was below 100,000 KRW. Fifth, the most common complaints were as follows: changes in the shape and quality of the knitwear after a wash, appearance of nap, and loose threads. In short, it is necessary for female college students to develop high quality knitwear with designs that can display individuality, while being simple.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.79-93
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• 2016

Since the development of patterns using tessellation is applied to a wide range of fields such as clothing, architecture, environment, and products, etc. and its expression principle is also found in various fields such as mathematics and science, etc. However, this pattern is mostly used as a math material with little studies on fashion and culture. In addition, it is thought that Korean traditional culture products need more various and modern design development methods and pattern through preliminary investigation which is simple copy of traditional items, simple copy of Korean Alphabet, Chinese character, and folk paintings. Therefore, it will present the method to make more design cases using Tessellation. Tessellation that combines mathematics and art will be the infinite form of designing of designers as well as creative training way to understand the composition principles of old culture and to raise sense of modern design. Tessellation of regular triangle, regular square, and regular hexagon was performed on the patterns which have meaning of wealth and prosperity of Korean traditional patterns. As the concrete method, first, each side of the regular triangle is developed symmetrically with patterns of fish, turtle, and cicadas. Second, rotational movement after symmetry movement about middle point of one side ${\times}$ 1 symmetry movement about middle point ${\times}$ 1 using crane and cloud, of the regular triangle was performed. Third, the regular square was tessellated parallel movement ${\times}$ 2 with "Da(multi)" and dragon pattern as the source image. Fourth, the sitting tiger was tessellated with symmetry movement about middle point ${\times}$ 2 and parallel movement ${\times}$ 1. Fifth, three bat patterns are tessellated by again rotational movement of two sides after rotational movement of one side and rotational movement of the other side. In addition, It developed traditional culture product design of the scarf, umbrella, aprons, neckties.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.11-24
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to obtain and offer useful information on innerwear industry through an analysis of consumer purchasing behavior and preference of their between the 20's and 60's. From 310 questionnaires that were distributed, 310 with usable data were coded for further statistical analysis including descriptive statistics(frequency and chi-square test), by using SPSSWIN 10.0. The results were as follows: The results show that since the surveyed women's purchasing patterns were varied according to their ages it is necessary to develop new items and designs tailored for particular needs and wants of each age group. For those in their 20's, it is suggested that the innerwear design may consider reflecting the trend of the young women nowadays as characterized by a major fashion-led group who regard fashion as a way of expressing themselves and are not hesitant to wear clothing designed to be exposed their body. The innerwear products for women in their 30's and 40's should emphasize on the aspects of customizing and satisfying these women's different lifestyles. The study also reveal that for age groups of the 50's and 60's women these products should be developed in a way to intensify functions of thermal property and absorbency coupled with a classic design rather than daring styles. In conjunction with material developments it is necessary to establish a sizing system for the knitted innerwear products which reflect the specific characteristics of women's body type in their middle-and later years.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.4-11
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• 2006

Masstige goods aimed consumers who want the fame and the emotional contents with reasonable price are presented overall and around the life style, from all the fashion items like bag and apparel to car, electric household, food, sports goods, furniture, toys, pets and performance of art, etc. Masstige casual, essentially different from the passed casuals which emphasized only price strategy, appeals to teenagers and young of twenties with a definite brand concept. Therefore masstige casual might be separated from business casual of a target aged thirties. Established celebrity brands have launched masstige brands matching the popularization of prestige goods. Armani Exchange from Armani, Marc by Marc Jacobs from Louis Vuitton are representative ones. DKNY from Donna Karen, MiuMiu from Prada, Paul smith Pink from Paul Smith can be added. These are relatively inexpensive, however the quality, design and shop's atmosphere are more exclusive than general brands. Consumers are over middle class and have a pride and fidelity to those brands. Leading Masstige trend, new luxury brands put the importance to the quality and aims middle class. To succeed in this field, companies should know exactly what consumers want, considering not only functional aspect but also emotional pleasure. Even though masstige has a weakness in pricing, it has to keep brand's proper benefit. Its price range could be wide to be in great demand but has to have elasticity and not to be expanded too much. Masstige industry should do its best not to damage original brand's identity. Forming family brand, like Armani made Georgic Armani, Emporio Armani and Armani exchange, system of parent brand and sub brands would be recommendable. From the launching time, masstige needs the effects to create a sensation and bring it into vogue and offer emotional value to the consumers.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to find out the various impressions that tone-on-tone coloration of shirts and ties gives. This experiment was based on the $2{\times}4{\times}4{\times}2$ factorial design: colors(red and blue), shirt tones(vivid, light, dull, and dark); tie tones(vivid, light, dull, and dark) and perceivers' gender(male and female). The materials in the experiment developed for this study were composed of 32 upper body photographs which were color printed and 27 bi-polar adjectives, each of which was graded into seven in its degree, were used to evaluate the impression. We unified those colors of shirts and neckties, and then made shirt and necktie tone different. The subjects of this research were 192 male and 192 female college students in Gyeongnam province including Jinju City The data was analyzed by using SPSS program. Analyzing methods were one-way ANOVA and LSD test. The items of the adjectives were classified into 5 impression dimensions - potency, activity, attractiveness, visibility and tenderness. All the image by the match of shirt and tie could be possible to make various images by the color, the shirt tone and the tie tone. Blue was given more effective potent image, vivid or light tone shirt in blue was the active image. As shirt and tie had different tone, regarded as the attractive image. Vivid tone tie was evaluated the visible image, light tone shirt is the tend image.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.125-133
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• 2006

Metro-Sexual is one of the most representing case showing contemporary life style of men that rooted into public already. The fundamental feature of this Metro-Sexual is the conversion of men's costume style to womanness which also could be seen from the history of clothes. The former works about sexual image, expression of sexual identity, androgynous and borderless phenomenon have been referred as base of this work. To analyze Metro-Sexual in modern social/cultural factors through such existing works will be critical part of understanding entire fashion trend in this day beyond sexual limit. As research method, former works, references, various fashion magazines and fashion related sites was used to grasp conception and womanity of Metro-Sexual. In a limited time interval from $2001{\sim}2006$ for practical work, silhouette, detail, trimming, colors, items, patterns and accessories were analyzed selected from famous S/S, F/W men's fashion collection magazine and internet site of professional fashion institute. It is obvious that Metro-Sexual already spread out in men's fashion based on such social/cultural background as new century's icon that regarded as critical factor in researching contemporary men's fashion and of the future.