• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.148-162
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze lower body types of women and provide information of body improvement of Korean adult female clothing product to ready-made clothes companies. As for the method of this study, it was conducted to measure the parts of the lower body of adult women at the age from 19 to 24 years, to analyze their characteristics and to categorize body types. For study, it was measured 150 female women in Seoul. Data was analyzed by used SPSS/WIN 19.0 Program. The results of this study are as follows. The means of the subjects in their early 20s are 159.8cm in height, 67.0cm in waist circumference, 91.6cm in hip and 52.0kg in weight. As a result of comparison with the $5^{th}$ Korean's human body size on measurement data, 20 items out of 33 items showed significant difference. Factor analysis was executed for 66 body measure and calculation items to draw the body construction factors of the women's lower body in their early 20s and principal component analysis was performed by orthogonal varimax rotation to clarify the measurement of factors and to derive explanatory factors. As result of Cluster analysis, body types' characteristics divide into 3 types. Type1 has tall and fat body form, type2 has shortest and curvy body form and type3 has average height and the most skinny body form.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권8호
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• pp.1265-1276
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• 2010

The carelessness of basic design form in education can result in a lack of creativeness and critical thinking ability that will decrease adaptability in a rapidly changing fashion industry. If the fashion education just repeats the previous education of basic form of design, it will be impossible to create original value in fashion design. It is necessary to re-establish the characterized program of the basic form of design education. This study develops concrete educational contents of the basic form of design that can be applied to fashion design through the study of the fundamentals and the concepts of the basic form of design. This study is the basis for the cultivation of talented designers with creativity, forming ability, problem solving skills, and critical thinking ability. The research method is the fundamentals, specialty publications, and designs studied. As a result, an education program for the basic form of design to be used in fashion design education was developed. The development of education contents of the basic form of design has been developed as the plane form that aims the perceptual and emotional effects through the expression of the objects, through the use of dots, lines and planes that are the basics in forming practice and the expression of the abstract images. This suggests subjects composed of the various progressive forming conditions with the abstract dots and lines. In this subject and during the process of the idea, development, and fashion design, the overall unity, harmony, and the theory of gestalt (closure, proximity, and similarity) has been obtained. As a result, the content of the subjects was developed from the perspective that comprehensive decision making skills made from the process can lead to an improved sense of the fashion design.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권5호
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• pp.626-636
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to show a theoretical system of expressional area, the characteristics and the effects which is applied to fashion illustration by metaphor theory. The theoretical system of expressional area was analyzed by category analysis and 150 fashion illustrations from 1900 to 1999 were analyzed by contents analysis. The results of this study were as follows: Metaphor in fashion illustration was categorized to replacement, parody, heterogeneous combination, surrealism, magnification and reduction of size, optical illusion, juxtaposition and distortion of form. In detail, First, replacement was showed omission of form, non-object color, texture. Second, parody was showed using the part in artistic work, differentiation of original work. Third, heterogeneous combination was showed unreal body combining between animal and plant. Fourth, surrealism was showed creation of object which is impossible to present. Fifth, magnification and reduction of size was showed bizarre magnification of part of body, size of clothing. Sixth, optical illusion was showed ambiguity of object because of creation of new form. Seventh, juxtaposition was showed the parallel of contradicting idea and change of meaning between heterogeneous objects. Eighth, the distortion of form was showed grotesque distortion of part of body and disgusting object.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권5호
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• pp.880-890
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to find out the correlation between the spirit of the times and the characteristics of each eras fashionable silhouette and clothing in Gothic and Modern Period. Theoretical studies about the spirit of times, and the characteristics of clothing about each times were preceded. The results were as follows: The similarities of spirit of times were 1) emphasis on reason and rationality 2) centralization by christianity in Gothic Period, and modernism theory in Modern Period 3) times of the nobility and the churchman in Gothic, and elite class in Modern era. The similarities of characteristics of clothing were 1) preference of slim body form as the ideal body figure, 2) emphasis on convenience and function for freedom in action, 3) discontinuation of traditional way of clothing attitude, 4) emphasis on straight and simple on the silhouette and design, 5) tendency of eliminating ornaments on clothing.

• 복식
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• 제18권
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• pp.195-210
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• 1992

The present research analyzed the social meaning of Korean clothing in women's magazine. The data were included the advertisements and publicity related to Korean clothing in two women's magazines and condensed at 5 year intervals with content analysis. The identified 276 advertisements and publicity were categorized into four areas. The categories were the trend of exterior growth of advertisements and publicity, appeals and approach, the elements of advertisements and publicity including background, the relation of models, situations, and styles of Korean clothing over times. The results of the study were as Follows: 1. In conjunction with external growth of advertisements and publicity of Korean clothing, the social meaning of Korean clothing has changed from ceremonial clothing to daily-wear clothing. Especially since 1980, the theme of advertisement and publicity of Korean clothing were changed form the beauty of traditional Korean clothing such as grace of dignity to the individuality which was the typical value of western Clothing. 2. The trends of appeals related to Korean clothing and applied Korean clothing have reflected the changing time and society. Since 1980, the emotional or mixed approach with metaphor have increased, whereas factual or situational approach were dominated in 1960s and 1970s. 3. The styles including silhouette, detail, textile and pattern of Korean clothing and applied Korean clothing also reflected the changing trends of Korean society. Especially since 1980, the applied style of Korean clothing has adopted the trends of western clothing. Implications for the future research were suggested.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.1-20
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• 1992

The purpose of this study was to investigate(Ⅰ) the effect of a masculine-feminine image in women's suit on the perception of the wearer's occupational characteristics and suitability of the clothing for certain occupations, and (2) the effect of perceiver's sex, sex-role attitudes, and occupation on the perception formed by the function of clothing cues. The research design of the study consisted of 2(pink and navy blue colors) × 4(masculine and feminine forms) factorial design of a suit. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stiuli and 2 response scales. The stimuli consisted of 8 drawings of woman's clothing made by systematic manipulations of 2 independent variables(color and form) in drawings of suit. The dependent variables were the perceptions of the wearer's occupational characteristics and suitability of the masculine or feminine clothing for certain occupations. Occupational characteristics were measured with a 7-point semantic differential scale composed of 21 bipolar adjectives. Perception of ccupational suitability was assessed with 12 items of 5-point Likert type questions. In addition, the Bem Sex-role Inventory was used to assess perceiver's sex-role attitudes. The subjects consisted of 393 men and 389 women, whose occupations were classified as professionals, secondary school teachers, and white-collar workers. They were randomly assigned to one of 8 suit. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, MANOVA, ANOVA, Mean and S.D. Three factors emerged to account for the perception of occupational characteristics. These factors were given the titles of (1) activity, (2) potency, and (3) evaluation factors. The activity factor was the largest, including 9 adjectives. Differences in the form of the suit had effects on potency and evaluation for both sexes, while it also had some effect on activity for women. The color of the suit had some effect on evaluation for both sexes. Strong effects of color and form on the suit were seen in perception of occupational suitability for the occupations of attorney(masculine) and secretary(feminine). On suitability for secondary school teaching occupation, the effects of color and form of suit differed by sex of the subjects. Perceiver's sex-role attitudes and occupation paritally influenced the perception of the wearer's occupational characteristics and suitability of the clothing for certain occupations. In summary, a masculine-feminine image of clothing had a significant effect on the perception of occupational characteristics as well as on suitability of the clothing for certain occupations. Thus, the results of the study support the implicit personality theory on person perception and also the stereotypes of sex-roles on the perception of occupational suitability.

• 복식
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• 제37권
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• pp.253-273
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• 1998

The culture reflects the ideology of a particular period in time and such values change according to the needs and requests of that time which eventually becomes an important factorin forming the exterior. The clothing is part of a way that composes and expresses the inherent substance of society and culture. Also, the clothing itself manifests the artistic values and behavior of mankind as an external structure maintaining its place as a big part in culture. The purpose of this study are to elucidat the concept of naturalism, which is discussed in many facets in the modern era; I studied the concept as well as the history of naturalism in order to manifest the meaning of clothing in the context of culture and I explained the concept in terms of the modern era. On such ground, I explained the naturalism expressed through clothing and characterized the exter-nal form of clothing. Also, in order to know the stream of naturalism in the modern context, I referred to the Vogue magazine of the 90s, using Delong's ABC method. Naturalism, in the context of modern fashion is a way to express the nostalgia of nature's vi-ability and purity of ecology apart from the artificial and structural appearance that resulted form scientific enhancement and hence, the ecological crisis. Naturalism pursues the soft- ness and comfort of the natural silhouette, color and material of the human body and it can be said that naturalism emphasizes the mix-ture of three substances : human, nature and clothing. The naturalism can be characterized by the factors expressed in clothing as follows. First, the naturalism shown in the form it-self draws the beauty of the bodyline without any reduction nor exaggeration. Without any distorttion of the human bodyline it shown the curve as one moves along, using the soft material. Second, the naturalism shown in color most-ly uses the natural tone with added white color and other color low in intensity and value like the receded colors of the earth that could be compared to the beauty of ecru. Third, the naturalism shown in the material is thin, light and soft in texture. In order to bring out the most natural curve of the human body, the natural fiber becomes the main material, sometimes, using crude materials. Due to the lindustrial improvement, softness and elasticity is added to the natural fibers giving them an important role as materials. Fourth, the naturalism shown in textile depicts the real natural objects in life. According to my study, the personality of naturalism in modern clothing was shown to be most strong in material and then in the order of form, texture and textile. The material com-posed of the natural silhouette and natural fibers were used to make soft color. In form, Paul Poiret made appearance expressing the natural beauty of the human body without the corset ; it continued with the inner lining making the clothing hard but in the 90s, lining-less, extremely exposed clothes and knit wear is used to emphasize the natural beauty of the body. In color and textile, the tendency spok-en above is not as strong but in color, instead of high intensity or value, the usage of neutral colors with added white color or ecru color, ear-th tone is increasing. In textile, the usage of flowers as natural material is seen frequently. As a whole, naturalistic trend in the 90s is increasing and the modern fashion is breaking out from the artificial and architectural form and conforming to a form that can realize the natural beauty of the human body. And the natural color and textile that conforms to such ideas are being used to pursue the human oriented trend that has appeared due to the increase in usage of soft natural fiber. Nowadays, the idea of returning to nature, defying the artificiality, desiring the leisure and psychological abundance that can be explained as naturalistic way of thinking is necessitated in this modern era as long as humans coexist with nature, this tendency will continue in clothing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권8호
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• pp.1203-1214
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• 2009

The theory of household arts and practical acts are two traditional mainstream topics of official South Korean secondary home economics education. The clothing and textile education within the Secondary School Home Economics Textbook (1948) is various and practical. The first year textbook discusses the symbolism and maintenance of uniforms that provides information on the characteristics of cotton. Clothing and textiles are covered in 26 pages out of the 76 page book. The second year textbook includes the theory of color and form, along with the characteristics of flax and silk. Clothing and textile education is covered in 33 pages out of the 97 second year textbook. The third year textbook deals with the characteristics of wool, manufactured fibers, cross weaving, removing stains, clothing arrangements, and equipment; 5 chapters (56 pages out of 137) are spent on clothing and textiles. The fourth year textbook introduces the history of clothing, laundry principles, dyeing, bedclothes, and bed accessories; 4 chapters (63 pages out of 125 pages) are spent on clothing and textiles. The Secondary School Home Economics Textbook (1948) is highly extensive and profound in depth. It is comparable with modern college or specialized high school level clothing and textile education in terms of clothing materials, clothing maintenance, color theories, and dyeing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제42권1호
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• pp.159-171
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• 2018

The apron, which corresponds to an important clothing form, changed according to the taste, age, appearance and meaning of the wearer as well as from past to present. Decorative function and practical functions appear in the costumes of the East and West. Anak No. 3 tomb, Korea's 4th century Goguryeo tomb mural, was depicted in the form of a woman wearing a white apron and working in the kitchen, which is similar to that of a current kitchen, and the shape and purpose of the apron is similar to the present one. The characteristics of Korean aprons are summarized as western similarity, traditional reproducibility, and practical functionality. The U-shaped apron with the hem decoration of Goguryeo is similar to the apron of Crete with a rhombus pattern and hem decoration. Despite differences in time, it can be seen as traces of a cultural exchange across the East and the West. In addition, Korean skirts were decorated with wrinkles and a hem decoration based on rectangles. It is a reproduction of a traditional skirt and is different from a Western apron with a chest strap. In the Anak No. 3 tomb mural, women were wearing the first aprons that showed a practical functionality and not a decorative use.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.21-34
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• 1992

The purpose of this study was to investigate (1) the effect of a masculine-feminine image in women's blouse·skirt on the perception of the wearer's occupational characteristics and suitability of the clothing for certain occupations, and (2) the effect of perceiver's sex, sex-role attitudes, and occupation on the perception formed by the function of clothing cues. The research design of the study consisted of 2(skirt color) × 2(blose color) × 3(masculine-feminine blouse forms) factorial desing of a blouse·skirt set. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimuli and 2 response scales. The stimuli consisted of 12 drawings of woman's clothing made by systematic manipulations of 2 independent variabels (color and form) in drawings of blouse-skirt. The dependent variables were the perceptions of the wearer's occupational characteristics and suitability of the masculine or feminine clothing for certain occupations. Occupational characteristics were measured with a 7-point semantic differential scale composed of 21 bipolar adjectives. Perception of occupational suitability was assessed with 12 items of 5-point Likert type questions. In addition, the Bem Sex-role Inventory was used to assess perceiver's sex-role attitudes. The subjects consisted of 393 men and 389 women, whose occupations were classified as professionals, secondary school teachers, and white-collar workers. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, MANOVA, ANOVA, Mean and S.D. Three factors emerged to account for the perception of occupational characteristics. These factors were given the titles of (1) activity, (2) potency, and (3) evaluation factors. The activity factor was the largest, including 9 adjectives and accounting for 33.3% of the variance in blouse-skirt. On the blouse-skirt set, the form of the blouse had an effect on activity and evaluation for both sexes, while the color of the skirt had an effect on evaluation for both sexes as well as on potency for men. Strong effect of color and form on blouse·skirt were seen in perception of occupational suitability for the occupations of attorney(masculine) and secretary(feminine). On suitability for secondary school teaching occupations, the effects of color and form of blouse·skirt differed by sex of the subjects. Male subjects determined suitability by the color of the blouse, while female subjects determinied suitability on the basis of the form of the blouse. Perceiver's sex-role attitude and occupation partially influenced the perception of the wearer's occupational characteristics and suitability of the clothing for certain occupations.