• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.130-144
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• 2008

A recent concern about Goguryeo era reflects the efforts to find out our spiritual roots, which have descended from the ancient times; Goguryeo clothing study leads to analysis of our national spirit in terms of form. This study aims to analyze formal property and intrinsic meaning of Goguryeo clothing for Korean ramie clothing design and draw traditional images to derive design elements applicable to ramie clothing. On the basis of technical books, newspaper article, internet and precedent studies, theoretical study on Goguryeo clothing and ramie property was followed up with positive study to analyze the clothing on the Goguryeo ancient tomb mural. The results are as follows: First, a progressive spirit is to progress and develop anything actively; This spirit represents Goguryeo people's ambition and racial characteristic as horse-riding people; The rigidity of ramie fabric is suitable for expressing straight silhouettes and detail in Goguryeo dress. Second, a fluidity means flowing property in opposition to fixation; in the case of clothing, it has a tendency to change form according to body motions; The extensibility and crease-resistance of ramie fabric is suitable to express pleated skirts and holds high design value for modern people who tend to regard clothing as important individuality expression. Third, a universal property to introduce and receive; as Goguryeo was a prosperous country established by conquering an open plain, the period formed a society that recognized diversity by introducing foreign cultures freely; a universality suggests the direction of modernization of traditional ramie clothing and stimulates us to discovert new design through compromise between various cultures rather than to stick to traditional style. Considering the fact that precedent studies on traditional clothing are concentrated upon the Joseon period and also limited to formal analysis, this study aims to derive design elements for actual clothing making. These results are expected to be used as basic material for study as well as reference for designers who wish to design modern Korean clothing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.131-144
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to analyse the structure and contents of clothing construction field in the middle-school textbook of technology and home economics with curriculum revised in 2007. 10 kinds of textbooks certified by Ministry of Education, Science and Technology in 2010 were selected and home economics field in them was the subject of this study with the external characteristics such as textbook system, instruction area and contents included. This study was content analysis-oriented and descriptive with data calculated by frequency and percentage. The findings are as follows. In 'Reality of Home-Life', food life area showed highest as 34.4% followed by clothing life(28.7%) and dwelling life(28.7%). The portion of present teachers in writing staffs was highest while there was no textbook where professors of each field were included in writing staffs. The contents of costume society, clothes material, clothes management from section 'Choice and Management of Clothes' in the chapter 'Family Life' and clothing construction from the section 'Making and Modifying Clothes' of the chapter 'Reality of Home-Life' were analysed in this study. Clothing construction-related fields were suggested separately by method of measurement, construction theory, drafting theory, drafting an original form, fabric trimming, utilization of the original form, length measure, cloth cutting, hand stitching, how to use a sewing machine, basting and correction, needlework process, completion, and evaluation. The contents of the unit 'Making Shorts' were about clothing construction theory, human body measurement, drafting an original form, process of making shorts and activity/research/experience. The contents of the unit 'Wearing Clothes after Fixing' in clothing construction-related field were about how to fix and recycling.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.53-70
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• 1997

The purpose of this thesis is to make clear particulartity of young adult generation which leads industry in their demands so that fashion trends are foresaw, and to describe style of costume satisfied with picture of new male. This thesis is to consider young adult style of costume in terms of double root described by W$\ddot{o}$lfflin in the internal meaning and the external form, so as to analyze their unique style. In conclusion, domestic young adult style of costume is embodied in the internal meanings of individuality, aestheticism and new classicism in terms of the external forms which means body-priority-form by open-form, whole-form, integration-form, rounded-form, indeterminate-form. With these results, domestic fashion industry is demanded to be from classic to modern expressions so as to be reflected in sophisticated masculinity of young adult.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.427-436
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• 2016

Protective clothing developed for rose flower farmers has been evaluated to improve the working conditions. The requirements of rose farmers were first identified to design protective clothing for farmers working with thorny plants. A fit test was conducted to assess the thermal comfort and protective function against thorn pricking to compare and evaluate the usability of developed experimental clothing with existing working clothes. Based on the survey results of rose farmers' requirements, protective clothing was designed in the form of an apron (which was the most preferred after gloves) with a pattern designed for the production of experimental clothing. For the developed protective clothing, the strap and buckle closure method was selected to open the back of the body as much as possible; in addition, sleeves were made in the attachable form of a half-sleeve to protect the arms from the thorns. The fit test of the developed protective clothing and existing working clothes revealed the temperature and humidity inside the developed protective clothing to be significantly different in the back compared to existing work clothes. In addition to thermal sensations, the subjective humidity sensations were statistically significant different in the developed protective clothing compared to existing work clothes. The subjective protective function for thorn pricking was also found to be satisfactory.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.7
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• pp.1140-1151
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• 2009

This study researches the formative character of 1920's fashion through cinema costumes from the perspective of the theories of W$\"{o}$lfilin and Delong. This study organizes a new perspective such as closed form & open form, part recognition & whole recognition, and flat & rounded to analyze the characteristics of form in the costumes of 'The Great Gatsby', 'Chariots of Fire', and 'Chicago'. The 1920's style in the fashion history is a closed form and flat because of simplicity and functionality. The costumes in Chariots of Fire' that focuses on the reappearance of 1920's fashion is a flat and closed form. However, the costumes of 'The Great Gatsby' that presents a symbolic meaning and 'Chicago' that expresses a splendid look are an open and rounded form. Evening dresses are open, with whole recognition and a rounded form because of sheer fabrics, beading, uneven hemlines, and lighting. Daytime dresses are a closed form and flat because of heavyweight fabrics, dark or achromatic colors and non-patterns. Also, open form and rounded, closed form and flat have a similar distribution in diagrams. When the viewer recognizes the form of clothes, they react in a similar way to two-dimensional and three-dimensional presentations that shows that the form of clothes is recognized by the relation with the body. In addition, this study researches the connection between diverse elements such as clothes, body, movements, space, and external elements such as lighting.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.445-454
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• 2008

The existing baseline taping methods were not applicable sometimes according to the body shape of dress form and they were often dependent on the personal ability and knowledge of modelist. It is very important to suggest the standardized baseline taping method which is applicable to various dress forms which have different body size and shape. It helps to communicate about clothing design and patternmaking between designer and manufacturer, and it also makes students to understand draping easily. So this study was performed to suggest the standardized baseline taping method which is easier and has consistency of taping result regardless of body shape of dress form. First, the existing 7 baseline taping methods were compared with 3 kinds of dress form which are reflecting different body shape and different age. Especially the location of baselines and landmarks which are important for draping are analyzed. Second, the new baseline taping method was developed with reference to the existing baseline taping methods, the standard body measurements of 2004 Size Korea and flat patternmaking. The standardized method for 12 landmarks and 11 baseline was suggested. Third, the appraisal group has performed baseline taping with both the existing method and new method on 2 kinds of dress form. The new method was superior to the existing method in uniformity of taping results as well as the degree of difficulty of taping. Development of the standardized baseline taping method which is applicable to various dress forms would make draping easier and be useful for both apparel industry and academia.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.26-33
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• 2009

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of concealing, revealing, and deforming the body. Using �body�t o analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the absence of physicality in fashion focusing on the deformation of the body parts. The absence of physicality denotes the break away from the idealized and standardized body for mass productions. It tends to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form refusing to subscribe to the traditional values that build on the balance and symmetry of the body, which opposes the sartorial convention and symbolism that results in the discord between signifiant and signifi? f clothing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.79-93
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze designs of exhibition clothing in terms of the use of Korean image, to review objectively contents about the use of traditional image, understand external elements of works, and give directions and basic data for future works. This study selected the total 250 works as the subject of this study among the collected data. This study classified and examined the use of Korean image found in exhibition clothing according to period, item, line and form, material, technique of expression and accessary between 1996 and 2004. The results of analysis are as follows (1) The most artworks were comprised in adaptation were Choson costume. (2) Most of them were clothing works for female. The item of chima were the most preferred in use. (3) The straight lines are used more frequently than curved lines. Forms of skirts were applied to those of silhouettes, H and A form were common. (4) In terms of materials, traditional materials such as silk, linen and cotton were commonly used. (5) Geometric patterns and plant pattern were found more often than others. (6) In terms of techniques of expression, patchwork was most frequent, quilting, embroidery and pleating were ranked second, third and fourth. (7) In accessaries and other item, gorom were most common and norigae were ranked second. (8) As Korean image has been expressed by fine parts of traditional costumes, the traditional living item, and local symbols, the range of works are becoming wider.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.7 s.144
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• pp.1008-1017
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• 2005

When we develop 2D pattern from replica of human body with small pieces, it is inevitable to have some replica pieces overlapped or departed. In this study, the optimized method of 2D pattern development from the 3D replica pieces was investigated using dress-form. Among six arrangement methods, anchoring two vertexes of a replica to neighboring vertexes of a next replica induces the optimized 2D pattern by evenly distributing stress across the 3D replica pieces. Anchoring neighboring vertexes resulted in automatic widening k overlapping (W & O) the interspaces among replicas of dress-form, thereby stress was distributed more evenly than any other method. W&O arrangement method was verified to be the best by examining the 3D space distribution images between body surface and twelve experimental garments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.165-178
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• 2012

This study researches the form of the Korean jacket point through relics from the Three Kingdoms period that have the traditional Korean style and grace of the Goryeo period as well as the form of the modern Korean jacket starting point. Several conclusions can be drawn from the Korean Image of the Korean jacket that can be classified into types expressed in the jacket style of modern fashion. Therefore, we will analyze traditional elements of Korean beauty through the "Korean image" on how to express it in modern fashion. The purpose of this study is to understand modern design creation and Korean culture. It is important to begin the world through the application of traditional elements to recognize Korean beauty as well as to utilize historical dress based on function and popularity to continue the effort.