• 복식
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• 제64권3호
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• pp.155-164
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• 2014

This paper discusses the social changes in the late 19th century that provided a historical background in the appearance of the ready-to-wear clothing in the West. It examines the social meanings of the appearance of the ready-to-wear clothing at the time and traces the origins of these social characteristics to the book published in the $16^{th}$ century by Thomas More, Utopia. The results of this study can be summarized as the following. First, the appearance and expansion of the ready-to-wear clothing coincided with the social transition from a class-based society to a democratic society in the west in the $19^{th}$ century. Second, uniforms were produced in the $18^{th}$ century Europe in order to distinguish different classes and ethnic groups, with the military uniforms being the most visible example. Frequent military campaigns in Europe resulted in the increasing demand and expansion of military uniforms, which later became the basis of the standardization of the men's clothing with uniforms. Third, the women's ready-to-wear clothing appeared later than their male counterpart and was made possible by the simplification of design, an important characteristic of women's wear in the later period. Fourth, the social characteristics of the ready-to-wear clothing can be traced to a democratic and egalitarian society without personal properties that was depicted in the book of Utopia by Thomas More. Fifth, one of the characteristics of the ready-to-wear clothing can be found in the description of Utopia, in which everyone in Utopia wears a clothing of the same form for life.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제55권6호
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• pp.661-673
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• 2017

This study analyzes the current wearing status and awareness of warning clothing for elementary school students as well as to identify points of improvement for traffic accident prevention and clothing safety education. A survey was conducted on 279 elementary $5^{th}$ and $6^{th}$ graders in the Incheon area and Ansan in 2017 June & July. The results showed that more than 2/3 of participants had no experience wearing warning clothing. Second, 63% of participants answered 'traffic accident prevention' as the main purpose of warning clothing, showing that about 2/3 are aware of the importance. Third, yellow was the most preferred color of fluorescent material for warning clothing with a significant difference of preference by grade. The favorite color combination of participants was yellow & orange followed by yellow & light green, but showed a significant difference between boys and girls. Fourth, the most preferred form of warning clothing was fluorescent short sleeves and shorts without reflective tape, suggesting that students paid more to the purpose for reflective tape. Fifth, while 68% of participants were negative towards wearing safety clothes that are currently available, 66% were willing to try safety clothes if the color and the design improved. The results suggest an improved education with more emphasis on the purpose of clothing safety. Color and design adjustment of the current warning clothing is also recommended for a more active participation by elementary school students.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.530-537
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to develop the measuring tool that can grasp the relationship between body and pattern, the result can be directly digitalized and developed as the pattern as body form is. There are 6 measurements; 1) the width of front and rear neck 2) the slant degree of shoulder 3) the degree of protrusion of breasts and scapulae 4) the separation of front and rear board 5) space between body and clothes 6) vertical strand in the clothes Developed measuring tool is handy in un. in which points of body to be measured are small, and it has the capability of designing the high fitness for body. The measurer developed through this study is named as $\ulcorner$Somato-pattern Measurer$\lrcorner$, size paper is named$\ulcorner$Somato-pattern Paper$\lrcorner$and the pattern made by$\ulcorner$Somato-pattern Measurer$\lrcorner$is named$\ulcorner$Somato-pattern$\lrcorner$respectively by our team. The result of this study is thought to make a great contribution to solving the various problems which can be derived in the time of pattern design because of the difference of physical forms in the same size as well as the difference between the factor of size and that of form in body.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.482-492
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• 1998

With the purpose of developing a objective fitness evaluation system for knits, the basic bodice pattern for knit was drafted and the suitability of the altered pattern was evaluated. For each of nine different knits, six sleeveless shirts were made with patterns that were altered by different pattern alteration rate: 0%, 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, or 70% of the stretch rate of the knit. The panel that was composed of 25 clothing specialists evaluated the fitness of the garments. The distance from the dress form landmark to the garment landmark was measured from each experimental garment. And the results of garment fitness evaluation and the measurement of distance from the dress form landmark to garment landmark were compared. The results of this study are as follows: There was high correlation(r$\geq$0.9) between the evaluation of the panel about the garment fit and the landmarks distance. The stretch rate of knits affected the evaluation of the garment fit. The stretch rate in course of knits affected on the garment fit at crosswise direction. The suitable pattern alteration rate was lower than 30% for the knits with high stretch rate in course. It was concluded that in order to get the appropriate knit bodice pattern length, the front bodice pattern must be less shorten than the back bodice pattern. The alteration rate at hip line must be lower than for waist or bust line.

• 복식
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• 제39권
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• pp.239-255
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• 1998

Art deco means decorative form on the base of cubism which has widely spread from 1910's to 1930's. Also it pursued the rational & functional design even than deecoration of art nouvear, and colorful combination of fauvism. The analytical study on design included occurrence, developing process and formative features expressed in the art deco fashion. The changes of the art deco style, it referred to the fashion illustration which was the Graphic-s of Ert in 19 century. Besides analysised activity designer in the art deco style, at the same time considered fashion design as comparable analysis. Paul Poiret, a representative french designer, contributed to the clothing culture which accepted oriental influence and it was all the fashion enough to call the originator of present fashion. He did away with the corset, relaxed the waistline, and freed the body from clothing constrictions of almost a hundred years. Since 1914, because of industry of woman clothing that art deco represent concern of one's Chanel's perennial rival in the firmanent of parisian high fashion was the Italian designers, Elsa Schiaparelli, Schiaparelli's originalily was profoundly influenced by the avant-garde art of the time ; Da da and Surealism were principal soures of new ideas. It apply the style to geometrical or abstract form impressed straight and smooth line on suitable technic. Such inflection of art deco heralded a close collaboration between the artist-jeweller and the fashion industry. Especially, jewelry designers were fond of juxtaposing transparent faceted stoned which reflected the light, with matt stones, which offered rare or unconventional contrasts through their opacity. Consequently, art deco will exert value of utility for the progressive fashion & jewel CAD through continuous research.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권7호
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• pp.1078-1089
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to research of the symbolic meaning. of religious habit in the Korean Catholic Women's Religious Society. The research was carried out by investigating a wide range of document including those on museum of religious society, follow by considering the questionnaire and interviews on the habit. The results were as follow. The action and ceremony relation to religious habit should be expressive of evidence of Jesus, poverty and modesty, protect from external temptation, married with Jesus. External form of the religious habits should be expressive of Vergin Mary, bride of Jesus, york of Jesus, the Sacrament, atonement, innocenc, eternity, confirm one's determination, poverty, rasario, adversity. Symbolic meaning in external form of the religious habit was expressed more definitly, varietly than action and ceremony relation to religious habit by well designed item, detail, color and accessory of habits. All over the world religious societies allowing ordinary clothes but most korean women's religious societies still hold on religious habit. Present style is very simplyfied than the traditional one. But many religious societies make efforts for keeping the symbolic meaning of religious habit.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.999-1009
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• 2004

Chitin is a derived product from the shell of shrimp or crab. Chitosan, a deacetylated product of chitin, has widely been used in the biomedical sector, food industry, and textile industry. Chitosan exhibits fiber-forming property under certain conditions. Nonwoven fabrics made of chitosan fibers may have diverse applications in the industry. Previous studies have revealed that the dye uptake properties of natural dyestuffs improved by the chitosan pretreatment on the fabric specimens. In this case, fabric specimen is coated with acidic salt form of chitosan, which is different from the pure chitosan, since the coating process employes coating with the acidic solution of the chitosan and subesquent drying. In this study, chitosan nonwoven fabric samples were prepared from chitosan sample having deacetylation degree of $100\%$ and molecular weight of 650,000. Chitosan nonwoven fabrics maintain the form of $-NH_2$ end-group. These in turn exhibit higher dye uptake ability than the fabrics coated with chitosan acidic solutions do.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권11호
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• pp.1415-1425
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to analyze a theoretical frame of expressional area, the characteristics and the effects which is applied to fashion illustration by metonymic theory. The theoretical frame of expressional area was analyzed by category analysis and 150 fashion illustrations from 1900 to 1999 were analyzed by contents analysis. The results of this study were as follows: The expressions of metonymy were categorized by close-up, realistic expression, omission, borrowing of past style, simplification and deconstruction. First, close-up was presented as emphasis of small part of fashion by cutting the scenes, snapshot, emphasis, etc. Second, realistic expression was presented as description of related circumstance with fashion message through perspective and realistic description of circumstance related to figures. Third, omission was presented as seeking of essential core by removing color, pattern, texture or by omitting body and as emphasis of communication about dominant fashion message. Fourth, borrowing of past style was presented as reminding us of background of the past. Fifth, simplification was presented as using of form or color to alleviate tension of object and to restore the essential reality. Sixth, deconstruction was presented as fragmenting of image, flattening of body and clothing, weakness of form, and strength of color. In conclusion, metonymy made by experience system of thinking based on the reality, have extended expressional territory in pre-existing fashion illustration. And these ways not only will provide fashion image as illustrator's subjective intention and theoretical system of expression of message, but also will be useful way to strengthen communication for easier interpretation of fashion illustration.

• 복식
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• 제51권5호
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• pp.45-59
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the religious motive and to clarify the relation between religion and fashion and to predict the trends in the future fashion by analyzing the religious motive in the aspects of inner meanings and methods. 1. We can see ego-superiority as inner meanings of religious motive is expressed mysterious image. Mysterious feeling is reflected in modem fashion in the form of the transparency of light and mysterious color in religious painting that is reemerged as a gorgeous and luxurious sense or it is reflected in modern fashion in the form of borrowing grand ways of art and elements of clothing. And this results from longing for aristocratic gorgeousness and from desire for light that is based on love and salvation. 2. We can see religious motive in modern fashion is a will to be converted to religion because of fin de sie-cle anxiety, and this is reemerged in modem fashion as borrowing of religious symbols in the casual wear or as combination of sacred religious motive with vulgar image and they are going to get mental satisfaction by this. 3. Religious motive has the inner meanings of ethic completion and this is reemerged through covering bodies, minimizing details and using dark tone color by having an inspiration in religious clothing. And this results from antipathy to extreme gorgeousness of modern fashion and excessive exposure and from mental desire for returning to an inner nature.

• 복식
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• 제65권7호
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• pp.19-31
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• 2015

Futurists put forward creative fashion by combining art and functionality. This led to a new aesthetic approach in how we view modernized industrial cities. Ernesto Thayaht, a futurist, introduced the "Tuta", which was simple and practical clothes. Tuta expressed the imagination and aesthetic values of Futurism. The characteristics of the Tuta were categorized into the following: Form, Colors, Materials, and Details. The results of examining its characteristics as follows: Tuta had a linear and simple planar pattern, which could be made with one cloth. The same modernized urban colors were used for the top and the bottom. Practical Materials, such as cotton and linen were used because they were easy to wash. Tuta excluded unnecessary ornaments, and only included functional details that would allow for comfortable movement. These design characteristics of Tuta revealed functionality, popularity, modernity, and innovativeness of formativeness. Tuta presented a new model of fashion in the early 20th century and completed the modernization of clothes. Tuta reflected the democratic and equal spirit of the era by innovating and overcoming the structure and form of conventional clothing.