• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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• no.4
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• pp.105-121
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• 2006

The term 'modern', in broader sense, refers to the concepts like modernity, modernization, modernism and the like, which came from Westernization impling the recognition of indigenous culture as being inferior to Western culture by comparison along with the expanded influences of the Empire of Japan. These concepts, however, rather than evolving from Western standards, came into being as a form of civilization led by Japan which had already tasted the fruits of modernization by 1920s. Since 1920s, the policy of, so-called, reconstructing Asian countries by Japan came to create eastern way of modernism, as a new East Asian trend mainly revealed in China which was against colonization after Japan's invasion and conquest of Manchuria. Therefore, Eastern' modern' unlike Western one could be understood in the widespread terminology, 'Modern(摩登)' in Shanghai, reflecting consciousness like 'Fashion' or 'Trend' in female images on a variety of visual media. By 1930s it was the most notable that 'modern' was accepted as something similar with 'Fashion', or 'Trend' in sociocultural contexts. These atmosphere had led commercial arts to enable to communicate with the public in a great deal of supports and success in Shanghai which was widely regarded as the citadel for the inflow of Western culture, among which transformations in female images were remarkable as a representative form of culture. It is also remarkable that 'historical modernity' transforming from the feudal age to modern society was considered a synchronic modernity, and nationalism was regarded as a sort of being modern, while involved in the newly-changed female images as a fashion mode. Changes in fashion including hair style in Shanghai by 1930s, as a way of expressions showing what was modern through commercial artistic productions, were easily noticed in visual media as an outlet of modern women's inner desire revealing their pursuit for new mode of life in metropolitan cities. As a characteristic of the time creating a new code of visual female images, it is notable that there existed another form of 'modern' satisfying socio-cultural needs of the general public seeking for being 'modern'.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.262-280
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to analyze the organic forms, expressions, and characteristics of Alexander McQueen's fashion design and to present various materials for understanding and utilizing this organic design style. The criteria for organic design expressions and characteristics were classified through a literature review, and the organic design characteristics of Alexander McQueen's fashion were then analyzed. The results are as follows: First, the morphological characteristics of nature's forms are used as objects in Alexander McQueen's fashions to represent organic characteristics. Second, abstraction through the application of organic forms means creating an abstract representation of the object being represented. Abstracting organic forms occurs by partially modifying the structural features of the human body to show characteristics or by visualizing these characteristics within the surface of the natural object. Third, continuity through the expression of the formation process of organisms is characteristic of the expression of the gradual growth of organisms; this reinterpretation is based on the concept that the internal elements of natural objects affect their external forms. Fourth, the structure of using natural materials, as well as regional and cultural characteristics, is shown in the designs through use of the physical characteristics of expressions and materials that use natural elements. Fifth, symbolism through subjective thinking implies that the element of nature that an object expresses is the element that appears in nature; this includes created organisms along with environmental factors. These characteristics are best demonstrated in fashion designs that express themselves through creativity.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.73-85
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to consider the characteristics of beauty culture in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty from the viewpoint of public morals and find out how characteristic beauty culture was developed along with traditional culture. Therefore, the clothes, the make-up, the style of beard and hair were examined and the beauty culture of women in the latter period Chosun Dynasty was considered. The changes of the beauty culture on the genre painting and the characteristics of the latter period Chosun Dynasty were analyzed. Conclusions are as follows ;First, in case of woman dress, the Korean Jergori was short and the Chima was too long. Due to the diversification of wearing, the underpants play as a decorations. Second, the hair which focus on the cleanness and the sanitation and the skin maintenance method were important. The make-up focus on make-up with powder which emphasis on the slim and round eyebrow, the small and thick lips for the beauty look of the latter period Chosun Dynasty. Third, a unmarried woman did the braids('Taun Muri') and a feme covert did 'Unseen Muri'. As people cling to the big and head of hairs gradually, the chignon('Terae Muri') was in fashion. The beauty culture in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty clothes and cosmetic treatment style were generalized through nobility, common people, lowly people. The imitation mentality which follow after Gisaeng style that led the fashion of that period was shown up. With understanding the beauty culture of the latter period of Chosun Dynasty, the study on the traditional beauty culture should be revitalized. This study help to uplift the pride on Korea traditional culture and to promote the globalization of Korean culture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.626-641
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• 2016

Maximalism in modern fashion, which is contrary to the current fashion market that emphasizes functionality and practicality, is an important notion that has been expressed in a variety of ways through designer's unique sense with a mixture of experimental design. With such creative work that suits a trend in novel fashion design, Rei Kawakubo is a current representative of Comme des Garcons who has not only introduced deconstructivism and Japanese-style avant-garde to the fashion industry for the first time. Our research, thus, analyzed the characteristic of maximalism's expression based on the features represented in her collection. Firstly, Expandability is classified as a method of distorting parts of a body and a method of excessively overinflating the silhouette of clothing. Secondly, decorations are expressed in the other as blending different types of materials together. Thirdly, fantasy evokes a fresh and stimulating surreal sensation that may only be felt in an imagination by assigning supernatural and amusing expression to the garment. The forth, fusion refers to a creation of novelty from combining various types of elements and images. The fifth, experiment is unique trait that develops mysterious images, consisted of various details. The sixth, non-structure is different from an initial form of garment that maintains a bilateral symmetry. The importance of our research lies in proposing a fundamental data for development of creative design as well as in expanding a range of possible expression for maximalism, by analyzing the characteristics of maximalism seen in Rei Kawakubo's collection.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.691-700
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is textile design development of the golf wear for international game in which it can inform the status of Korea through the visualization of the national symbolic image, and for this we developed the motive of modern Taeguk motive. According to an increase of popularization of the golf wear and participation of international game, the status of our country needs to be enhanced by developing the motive which the Korea symbolic pattern applied and applying to the golf wear, and it needs to contribute to the fashion industry through commercialization. 'Taeguk' is love with ideological concept and the Korea Founding Principles. The symbolic characteristic in which it represents the Korean image is clear. We presented applicable modern direction based on the figurative features and meaning of traditional pattern. The result of modernized Taeguk motive application to golf wear, effect of our country symbol showed up on a large scale in case of using single motive. And the pattern in which many arrangement methods are applied was more effective that it applies as the part of the detail than the front construction. In addition, we consider that It makes a large contribution to the fashion industry's development by application of fashionable pattern added in applied motive to golf wear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.181-192
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• 2001

Men study the nature in two ways. Scientists and mathematicians inquire a branch of those two ways. Mathematical formulations are the tools and the expressions of their nature. Meanwhile, the other branch, the art, alms for different inquiry. Instead of formulating the nature, the artists create their masterpieces from their ultimate source, the Mother Nature. For thousands of years these two branches have grown together, influencing each others work. Some mathematicians find that formulation, are not enough to fully express the beauty of nature. It is believed that such a simple expression, formula, easily omits the careful details of nature. The nature is simply too chaotic to be shaped with a formula. Of those mathematicians, Mandelbrot, one of the first to realize this matter, introduced the world of fractal geometry. Fractals give new possibilities. It allows us not to limit ourselves to linear prospect, rather a whole new view of this chaotic beauty of the nature. A popular practice to understand fractals is in costume design. The artistic characteristic and organization mechanism is appalled to costumes. Meanwhile, another practice, rather aggressive, is using computer to create an image of fractals. This image is then used for motives to generate artistic expressions. Computer and paper ironing technique is used for fashion illustration in this research. The works were synthesized arid transformed from computer programs. To add more traditional painting touch to this work, Paper ironing technique was used. Since the of effect of this technique is so random, irregular, and unordered, it corresponds to fractal consideration. This thesis asserts an another prospect to fractal as a structural way of describing nature ailed fashion illustration, rather than restricting it to only mathematical theory.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.691-703
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• 2013

The costume culture of ladies in late Goryeo is an important and rare source for cultural fashion souvenir design. This study investigates the historical costume design sources of late Goryeo to suggest high quality traditional and practical ornament souvenir designs for female dolls as well as examples of coordination with doll costumes. The costume culture of late Goryeo contained golden Buddhism and a revival of $12^{th}$ century Goryeo costume characteristic after the period of Mongolian influences from the Yuan. The main sources for doll ornament designs are $14^{th}$ century Buddhist paintings, a few ornament relics of Goryeo, ancient literature, and portraits of ladies in the $14^{th}$ century that originated from five doll's traditional ornaments (lotus hairpin, cloud-shaped hairpin, Buddhist flower hair ornament, vase-shaped Binyeo, and bell of animalhuman face) and three wig designs (wigs from Buddhist paintings and portraits, and hairpiece) with bleached gilding silver, silk, various gemstones and synthetic hair. These doll ornament and wig designs imply the symbol of Buddhism, exorcism, and costume culture of $14^{th}$ century Goryeo ladies that can be matched with two doll gowns, half-sleeved jacket, skirt, two Jogoris, apron, under trousers as formal, semi-formal, and town-wear according to the T.P.O of late Goryeo; in addition, five ornaments can be used as owner's ornaments. The partial changing colors and materials due to the characteristics of doll ornament goods as well as better communication between researcher and constructor remain to be improved.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.494-500
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• 2005

This study classifies somatotype from exact measurements according to the women somatotype with different drop value and isfunctional and has high body fitness. This study was preceded in the following process. Took 147 women in their 20's measurement directly and grasped the general body characteristic, and classified somatotype according to distribution of drop. Drop value is classified into Drop I, Drop II, and Drop III. Drop I is the difference value between bust line and waist line measurement. Drop II is the difference value between hip line and waist line measurement. Drop III is the difference value between hip line and bust line measurement. Suggested distribution of somatotype based on drop istribution. Classified somatotype into 4 types according to the mixture of combination of Drop I, II, and III. Comprehended the characteristics of somatotype based on basic statistical data. Type 1, M type, displays 40 % distribution that is most high distribution rate among four types and it is normal type which is similar to average value in size in the this study. Type 2, A type, displays 32.4% and it's a lower half of their body developed type with a flat busted and hippy. Type 3, X type, displays 19% and it's a healthy type with tall height, slender waist and curves of bust and hip lines. Type 4, H type, displays 8.6% and it's a biggest type in size which is busty, full hipped and nearly has no curves of body line.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.93-104
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• 2015

As interest grows in nursing-wear in accordance with dissemination of breast-feeding, a study on opening of nursing-wear is needed to enhance convenience of breast-feeding regardless of location. In this study, the items on nursing-wear were classified and each characteristic was analyzed. The types and characteristics of opening on nursing-wear were identified and the characteristics of nursing brassier closely related to the nursing-wear were also identified. Top 5 companies for the nursing-wear and nursing-brassier were selected by ranking top 5 in NAVER with the search word 'nursing-wear' and 'nursing-brassier'. 732 one-piece and top (t-shirt and blouse) which have the highest portion in the nursing-wear were selected as the subject. Based on the photo, product explanation on the internet and in-depth interview of designer, the types and characteristics of openings for each item were identified. 732 nursing-brassier were selected to study the types and openings in breast-feeding. The result is as follows. Firstly, the item of nursing-wear can be classified into top, one-piece, package of top and the bottom, and sleeveless. Top and one-piece have the highest production rate. Secondly, the types of the openings are either covering or opening types. There are vertical-slit and horizontal-slit in covering type, and vertical-zipper, horizontal-zipper, and button types in opening type, and overlap and pocket type for the rest. Thirdly, the commercially available nursing-brassier according to the opening manner can be classified into upper-opening, middle-opening, and overlap types. Most largely produced product is upper-opening type as it minimizes the exposure of the breast in breast-feeding. When producing the nursing-brassier, the measurement of the lower breast and cup size are considered.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.343-348
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• 2006

This study aims to attain gray tone dyed goods by using tannin that is contained in green tea. Tannin is given general name of polyphenol, which has a characteristic that bonds with protein and it is used for food preservative that protects against bacteria, as well as its purpose of black tone dye for silk treatment that has been processed since its early ages. In particular, as tannin reacts with all kinds of metallic mordant and changes to various colors, when tannin acid is combined with iron, it becomes tannin steel and produces gray tone color. Tannin that is contained in green tea is condensed tannins and its structure does not hydrolyze, thus having flavan type structure. In order to find the suitable condition for processing tannin, UV-Vis part absorption spectrum of green tea tannin, dye ability based on temperature and time, reflection rate based on concentration, color changes based on acid treatment and alkali treatment, changes on surface based on concentration or metal mordant condition, and lightfastness were measured. Maximum absorption wavelength (${\lambda}_{max}$) of green tea tannin was at around 273nm, while strong absorption was also observed at below 350 nm. Dye ability of green tea tannin is done more easily on silk rather than cellulose fibers such as cotton, while the optimum condition for dyeing was observed to be at $60^{\circ}C$, for 20 minutes. As a result of acid treatment, the color of dye material consisted highly of gray tones and showed overall gray tone with the combined color of yellow and red after the alkali treatment. While it was observed that as dye concentration and metal mordant concentration increased, the color changed at counter-clockwise direction on the Y-scale of Munsell's scale of colors. Additionally, lightfastness was more on a normal fading.