• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.83-96
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• 2004

Upon the threshold of late 20th century, the social, cultural and artistic trend began to pursue aesthetic pluralism and deconstructivism, and thus, fashion also began to reflect such a trend only to express cruel, detestable, horrible and ugly aesthetics. Under such circumstances, this study focused on the cruel images appearing in the modern fashion and thereby, attempted to determine their causes in reference to Julia Kristeva's theories. Her theories of women explain that women have incessant desires or blind obsessions about penis due to the bisexual instinct inherent in their subconsciousness, and thereby, discuss sado-masochism, a characteristic of women's violence and cruelty. In addition, she determines of abject, detestable and horrible nature of women by explaining their struggle to be separated from mothers at the stage of Oedipus (sexual differences). Based on such theories about women's cruelty, the cruel images shown in the modern fashion are categorized into sado-masochism, the violent and destructive image, and abjection, the women's apparels made of unpleasant, terrible and creepy materials decorated, to be reviewed systematically.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.63-79
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• 1999

The essence of Feminism is to establish the women＇s subjecthood as representing women＇s sexual characteristic and emerging from the fixed idea about women in our androcentric society. Feminism has been developed in various stages : the homogeneous theory which emphasized the similarity between men and women, the heterogeneous theory which persisted in he difference between men and women and underscored womanhood as an unique quality, androgynous theory which insisted on the common of two sexes since 1980＇s. The purpose of the thesis is to discuss the correlation between the feminism and the fashion, to examine its influence on shaping the contemporary fashion, and to infer what the women＇s fashion be like in the coming 21st century. The result of the thesis is as follows : First, the Mannish Look had been developed from the masculinization of female clothing by borrowing the style of women from that of men clothes since 1970＇s. Second, the Glamor Look has been stressed as the feminism began to swing toward which emphasized the difference between men and women, and women＇s sexual characteristics from the late 1970＇s. Third, from the late 19th century, the Fetish Look is still employed in various ways by the avant-garde designers, which impowered to increase the visualization of sex. Fourth, the Androgynous Look was born, androgynous image and neutral image, by the influence of the socio-cultural aspect of gender rather than the physical aspect from the middle 1980＇s.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.110-128
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressive characteristics of Chinese shadow puppetry costumes. Literature study and case analysis were conducted using books, research papers, and materials from the Xi'an shadow puppetry museum. Based on the Chinese traditional costumes, the shape characteristics are utilized with the intaglio and embossing techniques, and the complex and unnecessary details are omitted to express the costume image in a characteristic and simple manner. Second, colour was used according to the traditional Chinese symbolic colour concept, and the brighter the colour, the higher the role's status. The colour was also used to express identity and character. In addition, relatively vivid and highly saturated colours were used for the transparent effect of the shadow puppetry. Third, a role's status is indicated by the density and completeness of the patterns; the higher the role's status, the more complex and sophisticated the patterns, and the lower the status, the simpler the patterns or no patterns are used. Fourth, the faith for blessing expressed in the shadow puppetry is a representative folk auspicious culture. The repertoire of the shadow puppetry and the patterns on the costumes worn by the puppets, express the culture in an implicit way to symbolize the meaning of auspicious things.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.849-859
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• 2014

This study developed adaptive clothing to increase psychological comfort and protection for dementia patients. Our research method and data collection were as follows. The author selected and interviewed 10 caregivers and nurses to understand dementia patient behavior. The author collected eight pieces of clothing designed for dementia patients that are sold in Korean and overseas markets. We then analyzed garment details, open systems, close systems, and expected functions. Adaptive clothing for dementia patients were developed based upon our research. The results are as follows. First, dementia patients' behavior differed by dementia patient symptoms. Second, all items sold in Korean and overseas markets were jump suits designed to prevent behavior characteristic of dementia patients. Third, the author designed and manufactured five pieces of adaptive clothing for dementia patients that included two for mild dementia patients and three for moderate dementia patients. A panel of 50 caregivers gave high marks to developed clothing in regards to functionality, hygiene, patient human rights and aesthetics. The adaptive clothing of dementia patients from this research will increase the psychological and emotional satisfaction of dementia patients.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.46 no.8
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• pp.17-26
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to identify the aesthetic characteristics of modern fashion design use with a particular focus on transparency, and to help create future vision and feature. As part of the methodology for this study, I examined the concept of transparency, its characteristics and how it was expressed through art, architecture and other designs using literature research. Furthermore, I performed justifiable analysis on modern fashion design which used transparency from the 1990s till present. The following concepts were deciphered from information: Firstly, the concept of purity was highlighted. The emphasis here was to enhance the body's natural beauty with simple silhouettes that do not restrict its curves, using light materials such as clear vinyl, semi-clear materials or thin chiffon. Secondly, to express sensuality by exposing the body's curves with tight wrapping using clear materials, or with indirect and symbolic see-through techniques using contrasting clear, semi-clear and opaque materials. Thirdly, to express futurism through cyber and electronic images using high tech or shiny materials such as metal or holograms. Mechanical movements or effects of light are also used. Fourthly, to express playful characteristic by promoting surprises and disharmony that contradict with traditional techniques. This is carried out by intentionally exaggerating certain portions of clothes through disorder elements or confusion, and unsymmetrical shapes which destruct the human body's normal form.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.194-205
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• 2012

Historically, garments have been spontaneously made with human instinct in order to warm and decorate the body using textiles that have been made and used by various peoples in different cultures. Contemporary garments have been used as a means of warming as well as express individual personality and a desire to pursue beauty. They have a unique formativeness and a symbolic nature according to cultural phenomena that reflect a cultural outcome that expresses contemporary thinking and ideology as well as their aesthetic consciousness. This study globally promotes Chinese opera mask culture and proposes the possibility of creative thinking through the introduction of Chinese opera mask elements into contemporary fashion, expressing them as patchworks. In order to endow artistic value (required in contemporary fashion) this study creates works by analyzing and applying a formative sense seen in patchwork techniques and the characteristics of Chinese opera masks; in addition, it sought the possibility of new expressions in garment designs. The results obtained from the research involve the following. First, the introduction of the traditional patchwork technique to contemporary garments may be a dynamic theme of garment expression and exceed stereotypical ideas that enable the creation of designs attuned to the globalization era. Second, it was possible to pursue independent formativeness which is in harmony with a modern sense through the restructuring of the harmony of colors and practical characteristics found in patchworks. Third, it was possible to demonstrate their artistry and unique effect in the expression of contemporary garments by the expression of the analyzed results of characteristic patterns of Chinese opera masks with a patchwork technique in creating works. Results show that it is necessary to conduct research into a patchwork technique that applies diverse materials as a new method to develop contemporary garment design also as a creative design. In addition, if the analyzed results of the characteristic patterns of Chinese opera masks can be expressed with a patchwork technique, they may be able to exhibit a genuine effect along with the artistry of expression in contemporary garments; thereby, relevant follow-up research should be further continued.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.1023-1035
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• 2008

This study conducted a survey to find out dermatitis patients' preferred garment performance and their sentiment in spring/summer knitwears. SPSS 12.0 program was used for factor analysis, frequency analysis, T-test, ANOVA, and Duncan test. The result was as follows; First, in garments, patients required 'health hygiene', 'practicality in use care', 'skin contact' and 'easy movement'. Especially, 'skin contact' is an important property to be considered in patients' clothes. Second, in garment sensitivity, patients importantly considered 'modesty', 'feminine', 'boldness', 'decency', 'easy movement', 'youth', and 'simplicity'. Third, patients preferred simple and modest plain knitwear in light color with thin and soft fabric such as plain knit. And especially, dot pattern in knitwears should be avoided. Fourth, the preferred style of patients was that 'appropriately fit with suitable ease.' They also preferred 'front closed,' ; 'boat neckline' and 'V neckline'; 'raglan sleeve' and 'set-in sleeve'. For hem trim, they preferred 'rib'. Male preferred simple and plain style with round collar of 'tubular trim' and 'rib trim', while female preferred sophisticated and characteristic style with setin sleeve.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.221-230
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• 2007

This research was focused on the changes of layered techniques in Hussein Chalayan's collections. For this purpose, the layered techniques in 134 works from Chalayan's collections, 97S/S to 06S/S, which were obtained from fashion magazines and fashion internet site, were analyzed and classified into 15 groups. Layered techniques in his works apparently expressed his philosophy about deconstruction. Multilayered feeling was given through using various techniques such as one layer clothing which was showed like multi-layered clothing. Others were multi-layer clothing which felt like one layer, breaking the stereotyped line of clothing into atypical construction and using various materials or constructive lines which made the optical feeling like one layer or multi-layer clothing, and so on. These layered techniques in Chalayan's collections were differentiated into several categories, such as techniques which were revealed in every collections, techniques which were differentiated from one another collections, techniques which were continuously showed through three collections for connection with each collection, techniques which were used only for Spring/Summer season, and techniques which were uniquely showed in early collection or recent collections.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.95-102
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• 1997

This study is aimed for men's jacket draft not only to other style but also helping for men's jacket fits for trend by presenting the course to get a style we want by adding to the partial drafty changes in existing pattern of men's formal jacket selected two kinds of men's jacket style fit for 1997 S/S trend. In this 1997 S/S trend, the trend I of the characteristic formal jacket is a style slim expressed over the basic formal wear, and trend II of the characteristic casual jacket appears to women's wear that roundly expressed by collar line of V-zone returened back by the shoulder line of jacket made of a big diagonal wrinkled line of X-style in front centered around a button of center front line. In this study, it called that the existing traditional formal jacket of men is a A style of jacket and jacket style I, II is a jacket B, C style. Jacket A, B, C style, a distingtion in draft that added to make form an oblique wrinkled line of the X-shaped-making artificially to the front button line sharply distinguished by eyes will be come out by control of front neck width over the back neck width. According to this, we shall be found that place of front neck point is a cardinal point in draft that will be added any changes in a style of jacket.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.5 s.95
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• pp.131-145
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the physical characteristic by directly measuring the wheelchair using disabled women and to classify Body Type of a disabled person. The subjects were 103 disabled women of wheelchair used women and between 20 - 55 years of age The result of this study is as follow. 1. There was a remarkable difference in the physical characteristic of wheelchair using disabled women due to their cause of disability. The cause of disability was classified into the 4 groups; Poliomyelitis, Spiral Cord Injury, Muscular Dystrophy, Cerebral Palsy. 2. The result came out to be 4 factors by the factor analysis on the data of an anthropometric measurement to the wheelchair using disabled women and also cluster analyzing the factor scores, the experiment was concluded to 4 types. Type 1 came out to be a short height with the shortest legs. Type 2 was body shape which had a corpulent upper body and wide shoulder but with short and slim lower body. Type 3 has the shortest height, weak and lean upper body, small shoulders Type 4 has the largest stature and legs 3. A comparison of anthropometric measurements of wheelchair using disabled women with National Anthropometric Survey Korea(1997) was significant difference