In fashion, there are various cultural aspects that exist in complexity, where according to the era, even fashion items newly develop and prevail into various designs in the organic function with reality of related cultural phenomenon and aesthetic aim. Among the fashion items, the shoe is historically considered as the shield from lust and also the provision of praise against the most emotional incitement. Mankind has started wearing shoes out of the functional purpose of protection since the ancient Egyptian times. Thereafter humankind has been creating shoes artistically in respect to shape, color, and quality of material, etc, as an expression of aesthetical awareness and introspective desire for beauty. As modern fashion increasingly regards the total fashion image much more important than each items consisting the whole outfit, the role of shoe became essential more than ever. Contrary to its relative importance, little academic attention was given to this area yet, while prestigious museums and galleries in Europe and the USA have held exhibitions of shoes in view of both historical and artistic aspects. This study aims to make a historical inquiry of western shoes. through which their aesthetic values can be drawn. Literature on this subject including aesthetics, history of costume and arts were referred. Fashion magazines and catalogues were investigated for additional information. The process and results of this study are meant to be a suggestion not only to further studies but also to artistic and creative shoe design. Originated for the functional purpose, shoes have evolved in various shapes with different meanings attached to it. When the technological development made the satisfaction for functional needs possible, the intrinsic attribute, the aesthetic value was pursued. The historical contemplations of shoes from Egyptian times to the 1990's led to the results that the intrinsic aesthetic value of shoes can be summarized as follows: 1) protection and extension of body, 2) need for decoration, 3) erotic expression, 4) symbol of dignity and class, 5) fashion.
The objectives of this study were to find out the relationships between clothing style pre-ferences and self-image and to examine the differences in clothing style preferences ac-cording to marital status educational level and social stratification of women. The drawings of clothing style were designed referring to the catalogues for spring/summer of 1996 and printed by computer 6 styles of suit corresponding to clothing image were selected. Style A is a brown suit decorated with scarf style B a grey suit with stripes C a yellow suit with printed pattern D a grey and beige suit E a chanel suit decorated with corsage and F a blue suit with pleated skirt. The self-image was separated to the actual self-image and the ideal self-image. Samples were 226 women(ages 18 to 37) in Seoul Korea. The results of the study were the followings. 1. Clothing images of 6 styles were estimated; Style A was plain conservative formal and gentle image ; B masculine solid actual dark and plain image; C feminine romantic bright and splendid image; D actual ordinary un-fashionable and plain image; E feminine ten-der romantic and non-active image ; F indi-vidual fshionable open casual sprightly and active image. 2. There were significant relationships be-tween clothing style preferences and realistic self-image. The women who considered them-selves as masculine preferred style B mascu-line and plain image. The women feminine and conservative preferred style E feminine and tender image. The women not to follow the fshion preferred style D ordinary and plain image. The women informal and open pre-ferred the style F casual and active image. 3. There were significant relationships be-tween clothing style preferences and ideal self-image. The women who wanted to be-tween clothing style preferences and ideal self-image. The women who wanted to be con-sidered themselves as feminine and conserva-tive preferred style E feminine and tender im-age. The women who wanted gentle and con-servative preferred style D ordinary and plain image. The women who wanted sprightly pre-ferred the style F casual and active image. 4. There were significant differences in clothing style preferences according to marital status educational level and social stratifi-cation. The women with more eduacation pre-ferred the splendid and the plain image at the same time. The upper class preferred feminine image and lower class casual and active image.
Characteristics of Hanbok's traditional coloration have been carried on, based on social/cultural background of the past. Today, Hanbok is classified as traditional Hanbok, improved Hanbok, living Hanbok. Their designs, materials and colorations show significant differences. In this study, first, we have categorized and arranged the coloration trend of the women's Hanbok according to the types of coloration since 2000s. Secondly, Hanbok is classified as traditional Hanbok, improved Hanbok, and living Hanbok. And then examining their coloration trend and coloration characteristics of different types of Hanbok, so we can find the purpose far increasing understanding of various color beauty and coloration of today's Hanbok. The findings of this research are summarized as follows; 1. Traditional Hanbok coloration is influenced by the modern rotor and tone, and is apt to show the trend of emphasizing individuality. 2. Hanbok coloration of middle period in 2000's has become to use high value and chroma, giving more bright and luxurious impression then the early period. 3. For this study, we have categorized the total of 277 women's Hanboks by their coloration trends, through studying traditional Hanbok catalogues that enclosed vividly colored pure silk samples. As a result, it shows the order of contrary coloration(149), tone on tone coloration(56), similar coloration(23), monochrome coloration(20), tone in tone coloration(17), and 화학섬유chrome coloration(12). 4. Traditional, improved and living Hanbok show differences not only in their designs or materials but also in colorations. Using of traditional coloration is applied to traditional Hanbok and improved Hanbok in that order, and mostly the value and chroma of living Hanbok colorations are low, which emphasizes easiness to move and practicality.
Fashion of one period is symbolic and figurative means of expression reflecting spirit, ideology, emotion and aesthetic values of that period. Designs of school uniforms fer girls also went through changes in various shapes along with changes in sociocultural and philosophical backgrounds in each period. Thus, in this study, in examining girls' school uniforms, how girls' school uniforms have evolved with what kind of design characteristics was observed along with process of historical changes, and investigation was made on realistic conditions of girls school uniforms since 1996 when active advancements in school uniform design were started. Also, through examination of girls' school uniform designs from homepage of large student uniform companies and catalogues, characteristics of girls' school uniforms after 1996 were observed. On the result, we could know that girl's school uniforms from 1996 to 2006 were designed in various forms compared to those of the past time and changing Arends of the era were reflected on the school uniform designs. Narrow waistline, shorter blouse, changes in the length of jacket and skirt showed that current school uniform designs pursue the fashionable and trendy designs unlike those of the past times that were uniform and strict. This study include organizing characteristics of girls' school uniform designs by each period, providing fundamental and realistic data for clothes manufacturing and marketing activities through analysis on designs of girls' school uniforms since 1996, and providing directions for future school uniform designs.
Conceptual design is the first step in the overall process of product design. Its intrinsic uncertainty, imprecision, and lack of information lead to the fact that current conceptual design activities in engineering have not been computerized and very few CAD systems are available to support conceptual design. In most of the current intelligent design systems, approach of principle synthesis, such as morphology matrix, bond graphic, or design catalogues, is usually adopted to deal with the concept generation, in which optional concepts are generally combined and enumerated through function analysis. However, as a large number of concepts are generated, it is difficult to evaluate and optimize these design candidates using regular algorithm. It is necessary to develop a new approach or a tool to solve the concept generation. Generally speaking, concept generation is a problem of concept synthesis. In substance, this process of developing design candidate is a combinatorial optimization process, viz., the process of concept generation can be regarded as a solution for a state-place composed of multi-concepts. In this paper, genetic algorithm is utilized as a feasible tool to solve the problem of combinatorial optimization in concept generation, in which the encoding method of morphology matrix based on function analysis is applied, and a sequence of optimal concepts are generated through the search and iterative process which is controlled by genetic operators, including selection, crossover, mutation, and reproduction in GA. Several crucial problems on GA are discussed in this paper, such as the calculation of fitness value and the criteria for heredity termination, which have a heavy effect on selection of better concepts. The feasibility and intellectualization of the proposed approach are demonstrated with an engineering case. In this work concept generation is implemented using GA, which can facilitate not only generating several better concepts, but also selecting the best concept. Thus optimal concepts can be conveniently developed and design efficiency can be greatly improved.
Transactions of the Korean Society of Automotive Engineers
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제13권5호
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pp.142-151
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2005
To predict the fatigue life of the Hub Bearing Unit(HBU), preload effect and initial axial clearance have to be considered. Various theory and equations for the HBU design used in the passenger car are well developed in many literatures. But most design hand book for bearings or bearing catalogues do not consider the initial axial clearance and preload effect. So there are limits and difficulties to use those data in actual bearing design. To consider the preload effect and initial axial clearance, complex elliptic integrals and nonlinear equations are involved. These equations are difficult to solve during the design process. In order to solve these problems effectively, a program is developed to solve these equations reliably and to help the designer in obtaining the performance data of the HBU such as load distribution, maximum contact stress and fatigue life. The preprocessor of the program helps users to prepare the input data through a dialog box and the post processor makes graphical presentation of the result. In this paper, theoretical and numerical background for the prediction of the fatigue life of the HBU is explained. A simple example is presented to show the usefulness of developed program.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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제22권5호
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pp.585-596
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1998
This report gathers data on current catalogue and online order market in the apparel products in order to: 1) identify the current status and critical issues in this area, and 2) identify the differences between the department store markets and the domestic markets on catalogue and online order. In addition, it collected the information on consumer shopping behaviors through surveys in both Korea and the U.S., in order to: 1) compare the consumer behaviors between both countries, and 2) identify any correlations with demographic factors such as sex, age, marriage status, income, education. This was discovered by means of the collected data that in Korea there were the problefls related to the apparel products and the apparel size specification, and related to the p.c.-network. Also in Korea the department store companies do not have properly worked out size specifications and are more likely to use 'freesize' categories, while in the U.S. and Europe the reverse was found and the size specification gave more detailed information. Results of the questionnaire suggested that the U.S. was superior in the almost part of questionnaires especially in terms of the user's experience and satisfaction with catalogue & online order in apparel. Additionally, the U.S. had 2.5 times more catalogues and online sites and those were more frequently used compared to those in Korea. The consumer shopping behaviors in Korea showed a correlation with sex, age, job, marriage status and income. And there were significant correlations with education, sex and income in the U.S.
Journal of Korean Society of Archives and Records Management
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제17권4호
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pp.87-107
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2017
Because of the creation and transfer of born-digital records, file unit-based record description practices have changed fundamentally. In this study, we analyzed the archival description practices of The National Archives (TNA) to maintain intellectual control in the digital records management environment and to support the access to records of users. TNA has created an archival description based on ISAD(G) but, for describing born-digital records, it changed the guideline for descriptive cataloging practices. As the method of ISAD(G) cannot adhere to born-digital records, the next-generation descriptive standard, Records in Contexts (RiC), is still being developed by ICA. In addition to international efforts, we need to build an archival description system that fits our environment, especially because since the year 2000, TNA's online cataloging system has changed and ISAD(G) has been modified in this process. This study also proposed continuous monitoring of digital archival descriptions, provides an integrated approach to analog records and digital content and strengthens experimentation and cooperation toward an uncertain digital future.
Recently, cosmic voids have been recognized as a powerful cosmological probe. A number of studies have focused on the effects of the gravitational lensing by voids on the temperature (and in some cases polarization) anisotropy of the Cosmic Microwave Background (CMB) background at relatively large to medium scales, l ~ 1000. Many of these studies attempt to explain the unusually large cold spot in CMB temperature maps and dynamical evidence of dark energy via detections of late-time integrated Sachs Wolfe (ISW) effect. Here, the effects of lensing by voids on the CMB temperature anisotropy at small scales, up to l = 3000, will be investigated. This work is carried out in the light of the benefits of adding large catalogues of cosmic voids, to be identified by future large galaxy surveys such as EUCLID and LSST, to the analysis of CMB data such as those from Planck mission. Our numerical simulation utilizes two methods, namely, the small-de ectionangle approximation and full ray-tracing analysis. Using the fitted void density profiles and radius (RV ) distribution available in the literature from N-body simulations, we simulated the secondary temperature anisotropy (lensing) of CMB photons induced by voids along a line of sight from redshift 0 to 2. Each line of sight contains approximately 1000 voids of effective radius $RV_{,eff}=35h^{-1}Mpc$ with randomly distributed radial and projected positions. Both methods are used to generate temperature maps. The two methods will be compared for their accuracy and effciency in the implementation of theoretical modeling.
From the late 17th to the early 18th century, Europeans were strongly intrigued by products from the East. Therefore, several countries like England, France, and Netherlands formed the 'East India Company' to pursue trade. First, European markets rapidly responded to this desire for exoticism by importing goods; then, they produced imitation Oriental goods. Finally, they made stylistically advanced exotic merchandise from the perspectives of European. In terms of the textile industry, this trend was expressed in the pattern design of silk, or the so called 'bizarre silk.' In this paper, bizarre silk patterns were scrutinized based on a digital archive of museums, catalogues of museums, portal sites, and the literature. The bizarre silk patterns were analyzed then classified into six categories: pseudo-Oriental plant pattern, pattern mingled with architectural motifs, pattern of juxtaposed with Oriental goods, abstract pattern, exuberant pattern with metal threads, and semi-naturalistic pattern. These patterns were characterized according to the following features: strangely large exotic floral patterns were undulating and asymmetrical; exotic foliage and flowers were sometimes mixed with architectural motifs or Oriental goods to easily show the Oriental influence; motifs of bizarre silk patterns were abstractly stylized; bizarre silk patterns became luxurious once more like the Baroque period; finally, floral patterns became more natural, and still exotic motifs remained in the background to maintain the bizarre silk features. These bizarre silk patterns evolved from the viewpoints of Europeans through acceptance stage, compound stage, and confluent stage.
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