• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.41-51
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• 2018

Cable knitting, one of the most representative structures of knitwear has been applied to a number of knit items in a variety of expressions every season. The purpose of this study is to analyze the various types of expressions applied with cable knitting techniques to make the necessary data for planning cable knit designs. The types of cable knitting were devide into two categories which are based on the cable knitting pattern and structure. Based on the pattern, firstly, formal type is a reproduction of traditional Aran knit style and is usually applied to a practical and comfortable timeless knit product. Secondly, informal type is irregular applied to patterns and directions to highlight the dynamics of cable patterns. Thirdly, contrasting type emphasizes the cable pattern by contrasting the color of the part of the cable pattern. Fourthly, figurative type is the expression of the conceptual motifs and using the cable knit pattern itself as motif. Based on the structure, firstly, open type is to emphasize patterns and spaces by utilizing open spaces created by the intersection of cabling stitches. Secondly, decorative type is to enhance the ornamental effect of cable knitting by various methods and other subsidiary materials. Thirdly, avant-garde type is applied in various ways with exaggerated volumes or textures using the three-dimensional effects of cable knitting. Through this study, we look forward to the possibility of expressing the unique aesthetic characteristics of each of the various knitting techniques.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.352-366
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to investigate the actual wearing conditions and the preferences of knit wear school uniforms. The subjects were 480 high school girls from 6 high schools placed in Daejeon. The method of study is a survey consisted of actual wearing conditions questionnaires, preferences questionnaires, and demographic attribution. Data was analyzed by frequency, variance, crosstabs, and correlation analysis using SPSS 12.0 program. The results of study are as follows. First, high school girls over 90% wearing knit wear school uniforms were satisfied with current knit wear school uniforms(navy color, V-neck, and wool mixed). Second, high school girls preferred 100% cotton material and black/white/gray color group. The style of knit wear school uniforms was most preferred monochrome cardigan with cable pattern. High school girls wanted to show neat image by knit wear school uniforms and to diversify the style of them. Third, the differences of preferences between groups, they were wearing knit wear school uniforms(A group) or not(B group), were about pattern and improvement. A group preferred school mark pattern, and wanted to improve the quality and after service. B group preferred monochrome cable pattern, and wanted to diversify the style. Both groups wanted to wear knit wear school uniforms because knit wear was 'warm' and 'comfort'. Consequently, knit wear school uniforms will help high school girls express individuality and beauty.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.125-135
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• 2012

Since knitted textile products mostly do not require long span of time from the conception to the final products, they have lead the fashion trends during the recent decades. Developments in the textile engineering industries, and computer software and hardware industries have made the 3D virtual clothing software system easily accessible by the fashion/textile industry personnel. The simulated models of apparel products using the state-of-the-art virtual clothing systems are, however, not the replica of real-world garments. Moreover, the garments do not maintain fixed shapes during wearing. Deformations at low external stress lead to difficulties in predicting the behavior of the knitted garments. Therefore, there is a need to compare the differences in appearances, textures, or other related properties between simulated fabrics and actual fabrics. Three knit stitches including jersey, rib, and cable stitches are examined in this study. The differences between fluffy thick yarns and thin yarns are also compared using 3D scanning and surface reconstruction. Obtained three-dimensional data regarding the reconstructed knit specimens would help to build a data base for estimating the behavior of the 3D models of the knitted garments.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.1-10
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to analyze the structural properties of 100% wool fabrics knitted with various stitch types and to evaluate dimensional stability from shrinkage in wet cleaning and drying. Materials were weft-knitted from twenty-four different stitches with 7 gauge using a computerized flatbed knitting machine. Weight, thickness, density, and length were measured. A domestic washing machine and a tumble dryer were used for the shrinkage test. The results are as follows: Knitted fabrics were divided into 3 groups based on weight per unit area. Porous knits show light weight whilst milano, pintuck, rib stitches belong to the heaviest group. A positive correlation between weight and thickness was found and the same result was obtained for wale density and weight. Dimensional shrinkage of knitted fabrics was increased during repetitive wet cleaning and drying regardless of knit stitches. Especially, fabrics knitted with float, tuck, cable, and links & links stitches samples were contracted more than 15% in the first treatment whereas 2x1 rib stitch showed 1% shrinkage rate. Fisherman and milano stitches contracted in both course and wale direction with similar shrinkage rates. However, porous knits with float and tuck stitches shrank in course direction by 20% as well as cable samples contracted from 5% to 20% after repeated washing and drying. On the other hand, 30% and 15% contraction of wale direction occurred in orderly float and links & links stitches, respectively. Machine dried knits have a higher shrinkage rate than air-dried knits, but the drying method did not affect to the direction of contraction. In conclusion, variations of knit, tuck, and float stitches affect knit construction and dimensional stability from shrinkage in wet cleaning and drying of wool knitted fabrics.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.1-13
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to study the cause of obstruction in various knit pattern structures by understanding the needs of the customers, and to develop knitted fabric goods that satisfy the individual taste of consumers and that reflecting the latest fashions. Actual conditions of the manufacturer's designing processes must be examined. In addition, a comparison analysis of fashion sensibilities and preferences between producers and consumers had been made in order to study developing knit pattern structures. Questionnaires and interviews had been used as research methods. The research involved two groups: one group consisted of 57 producers, which included designers, programmers, and merchandisers working for a knit manufacturer in Seoul, while the other group consisted of 74 consumers, which included students with knitted fabric design as their major and those who have working knowledge of knitted fabrics. For a more accurate evaluation, 28 out of 150 patterns have been selected through a preliminary study conducted by 24 designers. On the 28 knit patterns, a sensibility evaluation had been made through the use of the sense of sight and sense of touch, which was followed by a frequency analysis, cluster analysis, and t-test using SPSS 12.0. The results are as follows: the fashion sensibility evaluation on knit patterns showed that structures, such as racking II or lace II, are typically elegant ('elegance'), while structures, such as links I or racking I, are typically 'active.' Furthermore, a 'country' image was displayed in structures such as cable I, cable II, and miss II. Links I appeared as 'sophisticated'. Miss I and milano were said to have 'modem' images. Lace II was regarded as 'ethnic', while racking II was said to have a 'romantic' image. 2:1 rib and milano were generally thought to be manly ('manish'). The fashion sensibility scale for each knit pattern has been made based on the above results. Based on producer and consumer responses, the sensibility evaluation on knit pattern structures showed that the two groups had similar preferences in knit pattern structures. Therefore, the fashion sensibility scale developed in this study can be used as a basic data for structure development when designing knitted fabric goods.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.148-165
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to establish a theory about the necessary structure for knitwear design, and to propose it with the practical data through the actual development of a high value added knit structure. For this study, the market was conducted along with literature reviews on the existing studies and the relevant books about knit structures. The market research aimed at the products released in the spring/summer and fall/winter seasons of 2012-2013, focusing on brand for middle aged women. The utilization of the structure by item and the characteristics of knit design were studied. The research was conducted on S/S products in May and July, and F/W products in October and December. As a result of the market research, it was shown that the lightweight structures with permeability such as plain, lace, links and links, this is repeated and rib structure were frequently utilized during the S/S season, while double structures with good shape stability were greatly utilized during the F/W season. Also, during the F/W season, a cable structure and tubular jacquard that emphasized the volume or cubic effect were frequently used, and there were many jacquard structures where a change of color sense and motive were added. Concerning the knit structures development, the researcher designed the knit structure at the actual production site of the knit fashion. A total of 5 pieces of knit structures were developed by asking a professional for programming and knitting. To the developed structures, the study added a multi-gauged effect, herringbone transformation effect, 3-dimensional surface effect, color effects, geometric patterns, lace penetration effect, and soft surface effect in a water-drop shape. In addition, the structures had differences in the added values by mixing various structures and diversely expressing color sense on the knitting line. This study proposes the direction for 21st century knitwear product design, through the development of a high value added knit structure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.1
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• pp.108-121
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• 2016

The objective of the study is to propose diverse knitwear designs by expanding the scope of the use and application of knit fabric. The study looked into diversifying the knitwear designs by using different types of zippers and with the combination of the diversity given by the zipper used in attachable and detachable method and the traditional North European knit patterns. One way of contributing to the diversity of fashion design is to use the zipper, as it can be implemented as an attachable and detachable fastening system. Also, the combination of North European traditional knit patterns with knit fabric can create a new and unique knit styling. The content of the research focuses on the history and definition of North European traditional knitwear based on the analysis of theoretical background, types, and characteristics of the knit patterns. Case studies were observed to show the application of knit patterns. The methods of the study used are preceding research along with research, collection, analysis of data, information from Korean and foreign literature, and Internet websites. During knitwear production, the two types of zippers were used in combination with four traditional Northern European knitwear Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy. The knitting techniques applied in the process were cable fisherman (5GG, SES 124CS) and Tubular Jacquard (3GG, 7GG, SES 122CS) for knitting machinery, and the technique of whole garment for hand knitting.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.1-19
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the social and cultural background of hand-knitting things with handcraft feeling which is appeared conspicuously after 2000. And to analyze the types and characteristics of hand-knit design. The resorts of this study is as follows: First, it is found that the pattern of stitch in their forms and ornament technique of handcraft feeling are the remarkable factors to decide the specific designs in the most of hand-knit designs. The major forms are plain stitch, rib stitch, cable stitch, lace stitch, relief stitch and pile stitch and the ornament techniques such as patch work, fringe, embroidery and collage are being widely used. Second, after 2000, due to peoples' preference for handcraft feeling manufactures, pursuit trend of artless luxury by retouch appeared, it made feeling for recurrence of the past and the warm humanity. In addition, the pro-eco trend using pro-environment materials and capturing the nature as images are on its way to advance. Through the mix & match of materials, details and items, it becomes possible to express many kinds of images. Thanks to those characteristics, the hand-knit designs are now acknowledged as luxurious with the couture sense attached and are shaking off their previous image of recycling.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.157-165
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• 2005

The purpose of this research is to investigate the actual conditions of the manufacturer's design processes. Questionnaires were sent out, and 57 interviews were used as research methods including designers, programmers, and merchandisers working for a knit manufacturer in Seoul, followed by a frequency analysis using SPSS 12.0. The results are as follows: knitted fabric goods were the top choices in casual wear. Brand image depended on 'elegance', 'modernity', and 'romanticism', among other lifestyle pursuits. The distribution ratio of the 'basic' and the 'trendy' knit was at 3:7 or 7:3, while the ratio of 6:4 or 4:6 was more common. Knit structure was proven to be the most important factor in the changes in designs. Style and yam ranked second and third, respectively. In addition, details (embroidery and beading), color, pattern, and processing were among the other factors, in order of importance. Based on the difficulty in designing and manufacturing knitted fabric goods, 'manufacturing cost:' 'lack of a manufacturing facility for small production,' and 'limited delivery time' were among the reasons cited in the questionnaire. These results appeared to have been caused by small-scale manufacturers or small-scale manufacturing facilities that made small volume production difficult. The results of the interviews on knitted fabrics that were most frequently used and with the highest sales volumes showed that plain, lace, links & links, miss, and 1:1 rib were ranked accordingly for S/S use, while jacquard, cable, 1:1 rib, links & links, milano, plain, and half cardigan were ranked accordingly for F/W use.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.73-82
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• 2018

This research investigated the mechanical properties of the 4 different types of $3{\times}3$ cable stitches on weft knitted fabrics. The 4 kinds of cable-stitch fabrics were knitted under the same knitting conditions, then the mechanical properties, such as tensile strength, elongation, stiffness, etc. were measured according to the Korean Industrial Standards (KS K 0642). The knitting time for the sample produced by the knitting process 1 was the shortest among the 4 different types of samples. It means that the knitting process 1 would have benefits of higher productivity if there is no yarn breakage during the knitting of the cable stitches. In the test for tensile strength, the samples produced by knitting processes 3 and 4 have tensile values of approximately 8~11% higher than the sample produced by knitting process 1. The test for elongation also shows that the samples produced by knitting processes 3 and 4 have up to 18% higher elongation values than the sample produced by knitting process 1. On the other hand, the stiffness test showed no significant difference between the 4 samples. This study is expected to increase the competitiveness of the local knitting industry as a result of providing basic data on the mechanical properties of special knitted stitches, such as cable stitches.