• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.63-73
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• 1998

To get well-fitted ready-made clothings with beautiful silhouettes, it's better to classify body forms into several forms and to assign sizing within each form than to grade just based on body size regardless of body styles. This study illucidated the importance of drop value in the results of surveying the current values of sizing and grading. Therefore, it's meaningful to get the classification of body form with appropriate distribution of drop values of the body, and the distribution of drop value and the frequency of each form is very helpful to name the combined sizing or coverage of ready-made clothes. This study aimed at classifying body forms with various drop values using multivariate analysis for sizing and grading. Factor analysis and cluster analysis were done using measured values from 346 unmarried women. The results are as follows: 1. The factor which explains body forms was obtained by factor analysis, and the representative major 18 items which have important roles in classifying body forms were selected among the measured values with high factor loading and communality. 2. The body forms were classified into 8 groups based on the charateristics, frequencies and distributions of them obtained from cluster analysis. 3. Each classified body form showed conspicuous difference in drop value and the difference of body form mainly resulted from the difference between waist and hip rather than the difference between bust circumference and waist in Korean unmarried women.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.571-578
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• 2009

This study was to apply the measurement variations of each region of the body to the basic bodice pattern grading and to provide the clothing pattern fit for the human body. Grading variation used in the apparel industry was researched and new grading variation was proposed by analyzing the statistical data of body measurements. The statistical variation in body measurements was applied to set the optimum grading region and variation. Five sizes were used by split grading method and drawn with Bust Circumference and waist length based on the middle size. Differences between the grading pattern and the drawing pattern were analyzed by overlapping them and measuring each region. The measurement variations of drawing patterns between the sizes were very different from those of statistical data. On the other hand, the measurement variations of grading patterns between the sizes and those of statistical data were similar. In summary, the grading pattern by applying the measurement variations to the region of the body was superior to the drawing pattern drawn by the basic measurements for clothing fitness.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.85-93
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to provide basic data for the development of clothing which can improve the satisfaction of male university students' body shape by classifying the perception of body shape and examining characteristics by type. The types of recognition of body shape of male college students were classified into five types: developed upper body with protruding under abdomen, normal body with long legs, developed under body with big skeleton, skinny body, and ladder type normal body. The actual body shape was classified into three. The Y type had a long chest length and a shoulder developed, and the lower body silhouette was plain and short. Type H was flat with little protrusion from the chest to the hip. Type X has a larger hip and longer hip length than the waist. Body type was classified based on bust, waist, and hip circumference, but recognition body type was classified based on visual characteristics. It is thought that ergonomic consideration is needed to cover the disadvantages of each body type considering the aesthetic part as well as wearing comfort in accordance with the trend of the fashion market nowadays that the slim fit is generalized. This study was limited to male university students in their early 20s in Chungbuk province. Therefore, we could not grasp attitudes and perceptions of male university students living in other provinces. Therefore, we should pay attention to the generalization of the results of this study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.1
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• pp.51-64
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• 2019

This study provides basic information for the convenient size selection of shirts in the online purchasing environment. The preferred shirt fit was compared according to body size group. The subjects were 111 students majoring in clothing. After setting a virtual model with her own body sizes, subjects chose the best preferred fit among four sizes shirts which included the shirt suitable to her bust circumference, one size smaller shirt, one size larger shirt, and a two size larger shirt. They generally preferred the original size, but the preferred shirt fit was different by the body characteristics such as stature, waist height, or the ratio of Biacromion and drop. Shirt length was affected by stature and sleeve length was affected by waist height. The shoulder ease was mostly affected by the ratio of the shoulder length. Waist fit and hip fit were influenced by waist and hip. Therefore, the body parts affecting the preferred fit of each shirt part were different and the effect of body shape was stronger than body size.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.5 s.95
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• pp.108-119
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• 2005

The objective of the study is was investigate the condition of the battle dress uniform worn by male members of the Korean Police Special Weapons Attack Team(KP-SWAT), identify problems, and provide basic raw materials for developing improved design of BDU. For this purpose, the researcher conducted a questionnaire survey on 92 male members of SWAT (Special Weapon Attack Team) units in Seoul using a questionnaire developed through observation and interview. Also, the body sizes of male SWAT members were measured. According to the results of body size measurements, male SWAT members generally require uniforms with a target bust girth, armhole, biceps circumference, thigh and calf circumference, longer jacket length, sleeve length, and trouser length to the knee. According to the results of the questionnaire survey, they reported dissatisfaction with the fit. In addition, they said that the Pockets are positioned too low for convenient use. Many subjects reported that their trousers were too short because of the rubber rings at the bottom of the legs. In addition, many subjects requested the alteration of the inconveniences caused by the designs finished with velcro on the bottom collar of the upper uniform, the marks and ensigns of the upper uniform, the bottom of the upper and lower uniform, and several pockets. Furthermore, there were many complaints concerning how they had to wear their uniform. The most frequently worn out and the body parts most often injured in field training and operations, they were reported, on the upper uniform, as the elbow, collar, neck, armpit, shoulder, and sleeve hem in that order, and on the lower uniform, the knee, interior calf, waist (belt rings), buttocks (rear pockets), and the bottom of the trousers (ankle) in that order As for questions concerning priorities in the improvements of the operational uniform and preferred design, the subjects recommended improvement in safety (protectiveness), workability (motional flexibility), design (shape), fit (size), comfort, ease in terms of putting on and taking off, etc., and the majority preferred two-piece designs ($67.4\%$), followed by one-piece ($30.4\%$), or both ($2.2\%$).

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.789-799
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• 2019

This study classified and analyzed the upper body types of 7-13 years old elementary school boys, using 3D data from the 6th Size Korea. The results of this study are as follows. Seven factors were extracted from the factorial analysis as an independent factor for a cluster analysis. The cluster analysis generated four body types. Type 1 has large ratio of front and back depth as well as circumference, with a front protrusion. In Type 2, the vertical value of upper torso is longer than average; in addition, its flatness is the largest and produces a thin body type. Type 3 has a smaller flatness in the bust, waist, abdomen and hip than other types, while also having the largest BMI. Type 4 is characterized by a greater shoulder angle than other types and its other factors are close to average. As a result of the logistic regression analysis, the prediction model used eight variables to generate and its accuracy is 88.679%. The classification of upper body types from this study can be used as basic data to improve patternmaking for each body type. The generated prediction model is also expected to be used as a method to help classify upper body types using the eight variables.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.21-30
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• 2008

This study conducted a survey to compare the size of ready-made clothes for different body shapes and body sizes, and to discover the differences in satisfaction with the size of ready-made clothes. The subjects were women in their 208 and 308 from Busan and Gyeongnam. The women were classified into groups: normal weight, overweight, and obese, using the Body Mass Index (BMI). The comparison of the body size showed a significant difference among the shapes; the average BMI in overweight women was 24.2 while that of obese women was 27.6. For the clothing size for each body shape, obese women most often wore size 77 and size 88, regardless of the sizes of upper and lower garments. The size consistency of upper and lower garments was the lowest in obese women. However, in most of the shapes, women tended to choose larger-sizes for lower garments than for upper ones. The more obese the subject, the less inclined they were to wear garments for their real body size. Satisfaction with the clothing size was significantly different between body shapes; the more obese, the lower the level of satisfaction with the size. As well, satisfaction with the fit of clothing at certain parts was shown to be low especially in the bust measurement, shoulder width, upper garment length, crotch length, and thigh circumference. When surveyed about the use of alterations for different body shapes, the results were that over 65% of subjects did not alter upper garments regardless of their body shape. Comparatively, 68% or above of all body shapes did do alterations to lower garments for example, the length of pants or skirts.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.596-605
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• 2013

This study investigates the wearing trend and purchase facts for adult females in their 20s and 30s along with their fitting satisfaction for woven jackets and circular knitted jackets. A questionnaire survey on consumers investigated satisfaction with jackets according to clothing materials and repair trend after wearing. Subsequently, a preference for circular knitted jackets was shown higher than woven jackets. Females in their 20s preferred woven jackets than those in their 30s; however, the latter preferred circular knitted jackets than the former. For woven jackets, they showed the highest satisfaction with size; however, for circular knitted jackets, they showed the highest satisfaction with fitting. In the question on their satisfaction by jacket part, satisfaction with circular knitted jackets was higher in all items except for bust measurement, bottom edge measurement, elbow circumference, shoulder width, and clothes length. Circular knitted jackets had lower repair rates than woven jackets and woven jackets had significant differences by age in satisfaction with back width. The research results indicate that females in their 20s and 30s who value fit preference and practicality will increasingly wear knit clothes. Therefore, we can address the fitting satisfaction requirement of females in their 20s and 30s by taking the clothing material properties of circular knitted clothes into consideration. In addition, further research is required on jacket patterns in consideration of clothing materials.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.963-970
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop torso pattern of underweight female in their 20s~30s by using Clo 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; first, as a result of analyzing torso somatotype, underweight women showed lower average than average values of whole women in their twenties and thirties in the items such as length, width, circumference, thickness except for height. Second, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new torso pattern considered underweight female was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+3.5, armhole depth B/4+0.5, front waist girth W/4+0.5+0.7, back waist girth W/4+0.5-0.7, front hip girth H/4+1+0.5, back hip girth H/4+1-0.5, chest width B/6+3.1, back width B/6+4.5, neck width B/12+0.2 and neck depth B/12+1.7. Third, by reducing hollowed amount of front, back, and side line, and hollowed amount of back center line, the reduced quantity was included to darts amount. Number of dart was adjusted to two pieces so that darts amount was equally distributed to two darts. Forth, according to the results of the new torso pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new torso pattern was appropriate for the underweight women. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D pattern production program development.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.15-26
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to offer basic data for designing and making of brassiere with the consideration of the physiological nature of man. Each of 3/4-cup wired upward-support-type Mold Bra of 75 size with basic pad made at three representative domestic companies (A, B and C Company) was selected for analysis of pattern and components. The following is the result of this study. 1. That Company A's bra had the highest cup, relatively narrow width, the widest front-center and the highest front center at front pad. That of Company B had relatively short wing over the base and much difference at the height of cup depending on the presence of wire. That of Company C had low and wide cup, the widest bust span and the front center width, the front center height of front pad, the base length of front pad and the length of wings were observed to be of the figures between those of Company A and B. 2. The Bra of Company A had the biggest front center angle of $6^{\circ}$, while that of Company C had the biggest wing angle of $18^{\circ}$. The Bra of Company B showed the biggest difference of patterns depending on the presence of wire. Those of Company A and C showed very similar shape when wire was inserted. 3. The order of making brassiere is following: making of exterior mold cup${\rightarrow}$ sewing exterior cup and circumference of mold${\rightarrow}$ sewing base and wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to base${\rightarrow}$ sewing cup and main pad${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to upper sides and upper part of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing wire-tape to interior base of cup${\rightarrow}$ inserting of wire inside wire-tape${\rightarrow}$ sewing hook & eye on the back of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing shoulder string.