• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제18권6호
• /
• pp.1242-1253
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is to suggest a designing method with excellent body suitability by analyzing clothingwearing porosity, comparing and analyzing patterns, and evaluating outer appearances by designing a prototype of study applied with design measurements for categories that have influence on the outer appearance of clothing through diverse research methods, by comparing and analyzing bunka and new bunka style basic pattern, which are proportional basic patterns most frequently used in schools for educational use to design bodice pattern for elderly women in their late 60s. As for the process of this study, the first stage selected study subjects, measured bodies. The second stage compared patterns of bunka and new bunka style basic pattern and evaluated outer appearances that deduced important pattern designing categories to design upper-torso bodice pattern of elderly women. The results of this study are as following ; As a result of comparing and analyzing bunka and new bunka style basic pattern, overall evaluation of outer appearance was excellent for new bunka style basic pattern, and bunka basic pattern received better reviews for the width and depth of front neck. In terms of waist circumference, waist front length, bust point location and bust point-bust point, bunka and new bunka style basic patterns showed a significant difference. new bunka style basic pattern had 4.5cm larger front armhole depth than bunka basic pattern, so it was evaluated to have more appropriate front armhole length, bust point location, and bust point-bust point. Through observation for primary excellent categories and precedent studies, 7 categories of front neck width, front neck depth, front interscye, back neck width, back neck depth, back interscye, and back armhole depth were deduced to have relations to the extra room around arm holes and waist that affect pattern designing method and porosity and evaluations of outer appearance.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제6권6호
• /
• pp.749-755
• /
• 2004

This paper was conducted to compare the methods of women's basic pattern and the problems by analyzing the space between skin and clothing using 3D scanner and thereupon, proposed the solutions. The Bunka pattern of Japan Bunka Women's University(Bunka) and the Secoli pattern of Italy istituto carlo secoli(Secoli) were used. The subject who has nearly the same body size with N type of National anthropometric survey of Korea in 1997 was picked out. In the result of analyzing the space between skin and clothing of each pattern by 3D Scanner, there exist significant differences in the chest and bust parts. The Bunka has more space than the Secoli at bust part, especially between bust points. Because the Bunka has the bust dart which was made from only the bust girth, it couldn't reflect the difference of each human body. Whereas the Secoli has the bust dart which gave a consideration the difference between the bust girth and the chest girth, it has more even space between skin and clothing.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제17권2호
• /
• pp.63-81
• /
• 2013

A Study using compare and analyze about differences among three patterns(shape and size of pattern, fitting and amount of air gap and so on) through 3D simulation. This study use 3D simulation program, DC Suite version 3.0. The results are as a follows: The results of estimation about total appearance, the pattern of Bunka is best of all pattern about total fitting and silhouette of front and back side. The pattern of armstrong and on&on stand low in estimation. As the total fitting, the pattern of Bunka is 4.40, the pattern of Armstrong is 2.60 and the pattern of On&on is 1.60. The result show better pattern of Bunka than pattern of Armstrong and On&on. When we examine about space between body and cloth, the pattern of Bunka is best. The pattern of Armstrong don't have problems about back side but front side have some problem of getting loose. Because it only have a waist dart so dart size is too big. The pattern of On&on have so much space because it don't have a waist dart. On the amount of air gap, the pattern of Bunka squash up body so it have the amount of air gap 0.08 at bust circumference and underbust circumference. Next is the pattern of Armstrong, amount of air gap is 0.14 at bust circumference and 0.23 at underbust circumference. The pattern of On&on's amount of air gap is 0.30 at bust circumference and 0.37 at underbust circumference. So the pattern of Bunka is bodice block of the best closing adhesion and the On&on is a loose-fitting pattern.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제16권3호
• /
• pp.78-94
• /
• 2012

This study devised and drew custom sleeve patterns by using a regression equation with the data from 7 models along with the sleeve that was slightly modified to make the general-purpose sleeve pattern. To devise a general-purpose sleeve pattern, the sleeve pattern was drawn as an object for comparison by applying the Bunka drafting system (sleeve pattern by the Bunka drafting system) to the basic upper garment. Actual sleeves, made by using the three types of patterns above, were created and tested by models. Next, 30 panel members participated in a sight test of the compatibility of the sleeves to examine the validity of the sleeve drafting method acquired using the regression equation. The test proved that the custom sleeve pattern and the general-purpose sleeve pattern were more suitable for the characteristics of arm structures. Thus, the new sleeve-cap part drafting method using the regression equation was shown to have validity. As a result, since a very significant correlation was obtained for the body measurement figures and the basic pattern of the adequate basic pattern of the sleeves, this study concludes that it is possible to come up with primary data that can be widely used by increasing the number of subjects.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제9권3호
• /
• pp.88-98
• /
• 2005

This study focuses on the needs at both consumers and manufacturers. It aims to find ways for consumers to purchase outfits that would fit their particular body type and preferences at reasonable prices, choose raw materials and style at garments, and virtually try them on. In addition, the study is designed to help apparel manufacturers identity customers' changing needs, reduce inventories, manage information on customers' body type in a digitalized form, and eventually contribute to promoting electronic commerce. Based on nine basic patterns that tit each subject, 108 virtual garments are created by adjusting the size of the patterns (9 subjects $\times$ 4 body parts $\times$ 3 patterns = 108 outfits). In order to determine fitting preferences for each body part and find optimized conditions, cross-tabulation analysis including $X^2$ and frequency analysis were performed to measure the appearance rate. A style of virtual garment, which is minus 2cm from chest size was chosen as the most appropriate pattern to the baseline location of front the chest. For the waist parts, the C style as an appropriate virtual garment to front and back view. In the front, lateral and back view, a style was chosen in the response to the sleeve-bodice combinations, the ease amount of armhole area, the armhole depth and the loosening of tightening or armhole line.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제7권2호
• /
• pp.225-230
• /
• 2005

This research was undertaken to compare basic bodice prototypes for Internet shopping customer, and to select a profitable fit vacant space quantity between clothing and body. A total one hundred of eighteen outfits (4 types of pattern ${\times}$ 9 subjects ${\times}$5 body areas) were constructed with basic bodice drafting method of Japan Bunka Women's University according to nine male body types. Fifty-two experts analysis of the different prototypes as five body area and evaluate the most appropriate ease amount and stabilization of the simulation images on the computer. The experiments with automated methods using simulation image are based on AZ program of TORAY, Japan. Data was analyzed using percentiles, frequency and $X^2$. Taken together, the present result of vacant space quantity and stability evaluation through images shows that there is a significant difference in the size variation of the chest circumference, shoulder slope and waist circumference. In case of ease amount, chest area, shoulder slope, waist area and armhole except neckline area were shown more appropriate on the basic bodice pattern without size change. In case of stabilization, the chest area, shoulder slope and armhole except waist area and neckline area was shown the best on the basic bodice pattern without size change. However the waist area was shown on the basic bodice pattern plus 2 cm, neckline was shown more appropriate on the basic bodice pattern plus 1cm.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제17권3호
• /
• pp.391-406
• /
• 1993

The purpose of this study was to utilize of apparel CAD System by the classification of the basic pattern block in pattern making process. Gerber AM-300 CAD System was used for this study. The results form this study were as follows; 1. New shirts block were developed. 2. The sensory test was applied to evaluate the new shirts block for women by comparing it with Japanese Bunka shirts blouse pattern making method. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 20 items on the questionnaire, the 19 items showed significant difference(${\alpha}{\leq}0.01$)between the two, with the new shirts block having higher scores. 3. A basic pattern block was selected by the design sketch. 4. P/D/S were enabled to be constructed directly from a block pattern. The drawing, deletion. duplication, and movement of all points and lines in the pattern might be made freely, and the split, pivot, and movement of the pattern, and the attachment of two patterns were possible. 5. Automatic grading of finished pattern have been developed by creation and modification of grading rules of block pattern.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제12권2호
• /
• pp.290-299
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to testify the pattern making method to develop the men's basic bodice pattern using 3-dimensional body scan data. The experimental patterns were made by adding wearing ease on flattened body scan data and tracing the outlines of it. The experimental bodice pattern were composed of front, back, and side panels. To compare the difference between the experimental pattern and traditional pattern, two pattern making methods were compared. Two sets of basic bodice patterns were made for each of the 10 male subjects: a set of pattern was made by experimental method and the other set was made by Bunka pattern making method. The experimental and traditional patterns were measured at 13 dimensions. The results show that there was a difference between the experimental patterns and traditional patterns at the front length, back length, front width, front neck width, back neck width, and back neck depth. The fit was also compared for both patterns. The results of the fit test show that the experimental patterns were superior to the traditional patterns at the fit of neck, shoulder, and armhole. The experimental pattern making method was expected to be useful for mass customization.