• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.13-24
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to design Jugori model compatible with the body types of the middle-aged women especially from 40 to 59 years old. The result is as follows: We decided five items as the necessary items for designing jugori model : the bust girth (the breast & shoulder width), the B.P length, the neck width, the armhole circumference, and Hwa-jang. The breast & shoulder width are the size that comes out if the bust is divided by the breast & shoulder width on the basis of the side line, and Hwa-jang is a length measured with arms stretched out to 0° direction. With each person's physical characteristics considered, the application of the size of each body types and body parts is as follows: 1. The breast & shoulder width (1/4 portion) : We decided B/4+2cm as a standard size and, we adjusted the extra room on the basis of the discrepancy between the breast width and the shoulder width to make it fit well to the each body type. For the breast width (1/2 portion), we bisected the difference between the breast width and the shoulder width of the bust, and moved Gut-sup to the center of the Sup and Sup-sun for An-sup. According to the body type, the movement of the Sup for the people with big breasts gets bigger because there should be a big difference between the breast width and the shoulder width for them, and for the people with small breasts the movement will be relatively smaller. For the shoulder width (1/2 portion), we curved the back center line after we shortened as much as the difference between the amount of the shoulder width/2+1cm and of B/4+2cm. The movement of back center line will be bigger for a person with leaned-backward body type. 2. The front & back length: We made the front length to B.P length+2.5cm to have Jugori cover the breast point fully around the bust line, which is a vogue nowadays. For an upright body type, we decided the back length as (AH/2.2)+5cm. And for a bent-forward and a leaned-backward body type, we adjusted the calculation formulae differently taking the physical characteristics into account. We decided the back length (A) as (A.H/2.2)+5cm, and the front length (B) as the back length+5cm. So, (A+B) is the sum of the front length and the back length. Going back to the original formula, the front length is B.P+2.5cm. So, we can decide the back length if we subtract B.P+2.5cm from the sum of the front length and the back length. To make well-fit Jugoris, the front & back length are areas that we should pay attention to if we take each person's physical characteristics into consideration. 3. Go-dae (1/2 portion) : We decided Go-dae as the neck width/2+0.5cm. For an upright body type, because the base line which went down vertically from the tragion was straight, we generally decided Go-dae Dalim line as 1.0cm. But we decided Go-dae Dalim line down to 1.5cm for bent-forward type and up to 0.2cm for leaned-backward type because the upper half of the body of them was bent forward or leaned backward from the base line. 4. The armhole : We decided the armhole circumference as A.H/2+2cm with the whole extra room of 4cm. 5. The side line length : We can calculate the side line length to (the back length-the armhole)/2, and, in terms of the trend, 2.5cm will be appropriate.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.21-35
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• 1970

1. For the purpose of making the basic pattern construction 100 girls attending the Seoul National University College of Home Economics were measured in finding of body size and coefficient of correlation which would be used as one basis of this study. 2. Coefficient of correlation of each body part based on the breast width was shown as follows; Correlation coefficients of bust to waist and hip were high and those of bust to shoulder width, neck height, back width, and breast width were low. None of that was found between bust and back length. It was not recognized so scientific to adjust the basic pattern construction with figures proportioned by those of neck, shoulder width, breast width, and back width. 3. The method of basic pattern construction obtained by this research has been demonstrated in direct wearing since 1967. It is believed that the result will contribute a great benefit in teaching clothing as well as in mass production industry of ready-made garments.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.82-91
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of visual effects by variations in the shoulder length and puff volume of the puff sleeve blouse. The stimuli are 21 samples: 3 variations of the shoulder length and 7 variations of the puff volume. The data has been obtained from 40 fashion design majors. The data has analyzed by Frequency, Factor Analysis, ANOVA, Scheffe's test and MCA method. The result of the study are as follows. The visual effects by the shoulder length and puff volume are composed of 4 factors : the width of the upper body, the shape of the breast part, the shape of the neck part and the shape of the upper arm. In these factors, the width of the upper body is estimated by most important factor. In view of the visual effects by variation of the shoulder length, the shorter shoulder length goes, the more positive visual image comes in the shape of the breast part. In comparison of the differences of visual effects by the 7 variations of puff volume, the arm looks thin and long when the puff volume goes enough and the breast part has a better visual assesment in case the puff volume goes poor. In the interaction effects between the shoulder length and puff volume, the shoulder length have significant differences in the shape of the breast part, the shape of the neck part and the shape of the upper arm and puff volume has significant difference in the width of the upper body.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.301-308
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to design men's clothing pattern that supplemented the problems of body shapes, by grasping the physical characteristics of middle-aged men and classifying their body shapes through comparing measurements after carrying out the human-body measurement targeting 120 middle-aged men at the age of 35-49 in full. As to the technical-statistic analysis of the measurement items, it could be seen that the middle-aged people who are the research target, have the obese body shapes. As a result of carrying out the factor analysis by the measurement analysis, it was derived the totally five factors such as thickness and width, stature and height, weight and girth, the bust length, and the shoulder shape. The total communality is 78.47%, and as a result of the cluster analysis by the factor score, it was classified into three clusters. Type 1 is the body shape with the great stature, the waist region a little obese, and the biggest thickness, width and girth. It is a flat body shape with the narrow shoulder and the smallest difference between the breast width and the waist width. As type 2 is the body shape that is small stature and is relatively not fat, it is the shape with the biggest difference between the breast width and the waist width and with the wide shoulder. Type 3 is the body shape that belongs to the middle of type 1 and type 2, has the upper-part body longer than other body shapes, and has the developed breast region with the biggest bosom width and bosom thickness.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.23-31
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• 2007

This study was conducted to reproduce the four-piece bodice pattern of a ladies' costume of the 1890's for Korean women in their twenties with a standard body type and average size. Eighteen four-piece bodice patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. The front width of the bodice was wider than the back width. The front bust line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back bust line, the side back bust line and the under-arm gore bust line. The front waist line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back waist line, the side back waist line and the under-arm gore waist line. The angles of the two waist darts of the bodice were very big but the legs of the dart were too short. The center front line of the bodice was oblique and curved. The angle of the back shoulder line of the bodice was bigger than the angle of front shoulder line. The shoulder seam line of the bodice was not placed on the top of the shoulder but behind the shoulder. The pattern characteristics of the bodice created a woman's silhouette that emphasized the volume of the bust, a chicken breast and a slim waist. The study pattern which had the characteristics of the four-piece bodice of the 1890's was designed like for Korean women in their twenties who have a standard body type and an average size through modifications based on the evaluation of two dressing occasions. The study pattern was evaluated to have the silhouette of the 1890's and to fit Korean women.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.150-159
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• 2012

This study intend to analyze differences between 3D body scanning sizes and direct measurement sizes of same subjects. The subjects of study are female students of university in China. 3D data analyze as a 3D Body Measurement Soft System. The conclusion found is as below: In case of circumferences, error between direct-measurement size and 3D body scanning size is from 4.9mm to 62.2mm. The neck circumference size of directmeasurement is bigger than 3D body scanning size. The height error range is from 0.6mm to 51mm. Height of underbust, waist and hip are that direct-measurement sizes are higher than 3D body scanning sizes. Gap of width is from 3.8mm to 21.9mm. The gap range is too narrow relatively to others. Only direct-measurement size of neck width is wider than 3D body scanning size. Error range of length is from 0.3mm to 41.8mm. 3D body scanning sizes of lateral neck to waistline, upperarm length, arm length, neck shoulder point to breast point, shoulder center point to breast point, lateral shoulder to breast point are longer than direct-measurement sizes. They have a negative margin of error. I intend to set up same measurement point between direct-measurement and 3D body scanning but they have some errors because direct-measurement point is applied by a person. 3D body scanning measurement point is settled by automatic system. A measurement point of direct-measurement and 3D body scanning isn't unite. So we need to make a standard of setting up measurement points.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.635-644
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• 2014

This study provides basic reference data for brassiere wearing conditions, design preferences of new silver women (50s-60s) and development of brassiere products. We compiled and compared 163 pieces of brassiere (considering of 105 domestic general brassieres and 58 foreign silver brassieres) analyzed using SPSS Statistics 21 program. A survey was then conducted on the actual wearing, purchasing conditions, design preferences for 176 females (50s-60s). The result of this study are as follows: First, comparing actual product conditions (domestic general products and foreign silver products), the ratio of full cup in cup height, V-shape type in neckline shape, long type in front-end length, wide type in wing width, U-shape type in shoulder strap form, wide type in shoulder strap width, no-wire brassieres in breast wire type, all-in-one type in shoulder strap separation, back type in closure type appeared higher than other types of brassiere in domestic general product. Second, a study also showed that 60s women's wearing time is lower than 50s women's; however, 60s women expressed a higher figure and preference for the purchasing ratio in the department store, full cup in cup height, short type in length of brassieres, wide type in wing width, U-shape in shoulder strap form, small type in shoulder strap width, back type in closure type and no-wire brassieres than those in their 50s. It was found they prefer fabric with a high natural content, nude tone color without decoration & pattern and camisole brassieres.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.40
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• pp.81-93
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• 1998

It is necessary to research shape of the breast of girls at adolescence for developing well-fit brassiers. 313 participants reside in Chonju and Kunsan were gathered for body measurement. The conclusion of this study can be summarized as follows. 1) The Analysis of Body Shape by Measurement. Comparing Age GroupⅠ(aged 10 to 12)' measurement with Age GroupⅡ(aged 13 to 15)', Each items has statistical significance. Two groups differed in the length, girth, depth, width items. 2) Factor Analysis of Body Measurement (1) Age GroupⅠ'characteristics were categorized Three Factor : Breast size and breast apex length. Breast volume, Length of the Breast part. (2) Age GroupⅡ' characteristics consist of four factors, which are named as breast size and its jut (first factor), breast volume (second factor), contour of breast profile & its jut (third factor), shoulder length (fourth factor). 3) Characteristics of Breast Shape. (1) Breast shapes of Age GroupⅠ are classified into three types. Types 1 is a protruded and more voluminous shape. Type 2 is the most voluminous and breast fatness is highest. Type 3 is the smallest and flat shape growing now. (2) Breast shapes of Age GroupⅡ are also classified into three types. Type 1 is the longest in length and middle in fatness, voluminous in size. Type 2 is the smallest in stature and the slimmest in fatness in breast shape. Type 3 is middle in length, the fattest and the most voluminous in breast.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.29-41
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to improve the fitness of clothes by producing patterns considering body proportions at a time of producing clothes for export through extracting factors comprising body types and conducting comparative analysis of proportions by body part using body indexes of Korean women in their 20s living in both Korea and foreign countries. The study results are as follows. Factor analysis by group was conducted for body indexes in order to examine body types of Koreans living overseas. As a results, six factors were extracted from all of three groups; Joseonjok(Koreans living in China), Goryeoin(Koreans living in Russia) and Korean residents in Japan, and their explanatory powers were 60.42%, 63.62%, 63.15%, respectively. Obesity factor was extracted as the 1st factor, and the groups showed differences in other factors. As a result of proportion comparison using body indexes of Koreans living in foreign countries and Korea, it was found that, in height item, when regarding the height as 100, the length of the lower part of the body was long in the order of Goryeoin. Joseonjok, Koreans living in Korea and Korean residents in Japan. Also in width item, when regarding the waist as a standard, it was observed that Joseonjok people have the shoulders, the breasts and the hips that look relatively wider comparing with the width of the waists because they have very narrow waists and the width between shoulder length is big. In addition, the study examined proportions of the breast thickness/the breast width, the waist thickness/the waist width, the hip thickness/the hip width to height. From the analysis, it was found that breasts of Koreans living in Korea are flattest while their waists are slender, and Goryeoin and Joseonjok have round body shapes from the waist to the breast.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.689-698
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to develop the well-fitted brassieres by observing the changes in the breast sizes and shapes, the surface area and the volume of the breast through the arm movements of 3 types (0$^{\circ}$, 90$^{\circ}$ and 180$^{\circ}$) in vertical motion. The subjects are females, who are aged twenties and wearing a brassiere size 70B, In particular, to obtain the measures regarding the surface area and the volume of the breast, replicas are made at each motion. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The changes in the breast sizes and shapes at each motion By increasing the motions of the arm movement, the following measure items are inclined to decrease: Shoulder length, Side neck point~B.P., Front neck point~B.P., Horizontal length of the cup, Upper bust circumference, Bust circumference, Upper bust depth, Bust depth, Under bust depth, Nipple to tipple breadth, Horizontal distance of bust, Bust height, Cup size. By increasing the motions of the arm movement, the following measure items are inclined to increase: Center point of shoulder~B.P., Shoulder point~B.P., Armpit~ lowest point of breast drooping, Upper bust point~B.P., B.P~Under bust point, Under bust line, Width of gap between breast, Vertical distance of Bust. 2. The changes in the surface area and volume of breast at each motion By making the replica to observe changes in the surface area, which are sectioned to 4 parts(area 1 to area 4) , and volume of breast at each motion, the results are as follows: At 0$^{\circ}$ and 90$^{\circ}$, the sizes of each part are ordered as the following: area2> areal> area4> area3. At 180$^{\circ}$, the sizes of each part are ordered as the following: areal> area2> area4> area3. Through these orders, it is found that the upper and inside part of the breast has the inclination to increase so long as the motions of the arm movement increase. Also, the total surface area increases so long as the motions of the arm movement increase. The volume of the breast increase when the surface area of the breast increases. As a result of the F-test on the changes in the each surface areas, the surface area and volume by arm movements, the significant differences among the each surface areas and the surface area are not found.