• 한국해안해양공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국해안해양공학회 2002년도 한국해안해양공학발표논문집 Proceedings of Coastal and Ocean Engineering in Korea
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• pp.14-23
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• 2002

Wave breaking and breaking wave-induced hydrodynamics are very important subjects in the field of coastal and ocean hydrodynamics and engineering. In the coastal zone, a submerged breakwater has been increasingly popular, since it is one of nature-matching structures with multi- functions such as (1) wave energy dissipation by wave breaking and friction, (2) oxygen supply to sea by wave breaking and breaking wave, (3) water purification by entrained air bubbles, (4) keeping. good seascape. and (5) good habitat for sea livings. Recently, the breaking wave-induced high frequency pressure over a submerged breakwater is said to have a function of gathering sea livings around the structure, which has encouraged the construction of the submerged breakwater in coastal zone. (omitted)

• 수산해양기술연구
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• 제48권3호
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• pp.227-234
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• 2012

This paper describes the remote monitoring of breaking ocean waves generated by Typhoon Nabi, whose name means butterfly in Korean, using a marine X-band radar in the Yongho Man, Busan, Korea. The basic purpose of this study is to investigate the dynamic behavior and to estimate the periods of breaking waves across the surf zone from radar image sequences. In these experiments, the land-based radar system imaged the inshore zone of three miles from the coastline to a isobath of 30 meters. The wave period and the dominant wave direction for breaking ocean waves extracted directly from radar image sequences were 157.4 meters and 298 degrees, respectively. However, the result calculated quantitatively by the continuous wavelet transform (CWT) showed that the period of breaking waves was 154.3 meters. The average difference in breaking wave periods between the value extracted by using EBRL (electronic bearing and range line) of radar and the calculated value by CWT was 3.1 meters, showing that the CWT method is also accurate. These results suggest that a marine X-band radar system is a viable method of monitoring the breaking ocean waves.

• Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
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• 제33권6호
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• pp.965-974
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• 2009

The current study reviews the formula used to calculate the stability of an artificial reef in the breaking wave zone of coastal waters. A comparison was carried out between the existing formula and a new formula that takes into account the water particle velocity in the breaking wave zone. Water particle velocity was analyzed using the Fluent (CADMAS-SURF) software program. The new formula took into various factors, including the difference in the drag coefficient due to the direction of the current and the ratio of distance between two reefs. The drag coefficient of the artificial reef due to the direction of the current was 0.84 when the distance ratio was 0.5. When the artificial reef was placed at 45 degree angle to the current, the product of the drag coefficient and the project area were 40 to 46 % greater than when the reef was placed at 90 degree angle. Our results regarding the stability of an artificial reef indicate that the new formula provides the designers of artificial reefs with a more rational and economic design rationale rather than the existing formula.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.75-80
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• 1996

The importance of the impact force on the vertical offshore circular structure member in the surf zone due to the breaking wave has been recognized recently. In this paper characteristics of breaking wave forces and the corresponding estimation procedures for them are investigated. For the characterization of the wave forces, three parts, drag force, inertia force, impact force are categorized and identified, respectively. Among them the impact force is maimly studied and the concise form of the force is proposed with the application scheme for the design of offshore circular structure member. The resulting form porposed here for impact force is well coincided with former research results by other people. Except the impact force, so called Morison equation can be employed for the common offshore structure design. The drag force and inertia force are represented as convertionally for the profile except the breaking part. In the numerical example, for thpical sea condition and the member size, the proposed procedures for the breaking wave forces calculation are demonstrated. It is found that the impact force is the most deminant one comparing with inertia and drag forces in the surf zone.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.136-145
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• 2007

파랑이 수중 천퇴부를 넘어 쇄파하는 경우 파고는 작게 형성되나 강한 이차적 흐름 (쇄파유도류)이 발생한다. 따라서, 임의의 해양구조물이 쇄파대에 위치할 경우에는 단순히 가시적인 파고에만 근거한 파력산정은 과소설계를 초래할 가능성이 있으며 구조물의 안정설계를 위해서는 쇄파유도류의 유속이 가미된 상태에서의 유체력을 정확히 산정하여 반영할 필요가 있다. 본 연구에서는 Boussinesq 방정식 모델을 이용하여 쇄파대내에서의 파고분포와 쇄파유도류를 계산하는 기법을 수립하였으며 과거에 수행하였던 이어도 해양과학기지의 수리모형실험 (1/120)의 모델영역에 적용하였다. 이 계산결과를 이용하여 모형구조물에 작용하는 유체력을 계산하고 수리모형실험 결과와 비교함으로써 쇄파유도류의 영향을 정량적으로 평가하였다.

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.39-44
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• 2009

쇄파대 파랑모의의 정확도를 높이기위해 타원형 완경사방정식에 Shuto의 경험식에 근거한 비선형 천수효과를 도입하였고 쇄파구조를 추가하였다. 천수 실험을 통해 상대수심과 심해 파형경사에 따른 천수계수의 변화를 확인한 결과 Shuto의 비선형 천수식과 잘 일치하였다. 쇄파실험에서 비선형 천수효과로 인해 선형모형에 비해 상승된 파고 분포를 확인할 수 있었고 실험치와 잘 일치하였다. 쇄파구조는 1/10 경사지형에서는 실험치와 잘 일치하였지만 1/20 경사지형에서는 과도한 에너지 감쇄를 보여주었다.

• 한국수자원학회논문집
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• 제37권6호
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• pp.461-466
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• 2004

본 연구에서는 쇄파대에서 정현파의 쇄파에 대해 수리모형실험과 수치모형실험을 수행하였으며, 두 실험결과를 비교하였다. 수치해석 모형에서는 Reynolds 방정식을 지배방정식으로 사용하고 난류해석을 위해 $textsc{k}$-$\varepsilon$ 모델을 적용하였으며, 자유수면변위를 추적하기 위해 VOF기법을 사용하였다. 수리모형실험과 수치모형실험 모두 동일한 수심과 주기를 가질 경우, 입사파의 파고가 커질수록 쇄파발생 지점이 경사시작 지점으로부터 가까운 위치로 이동하는 경향을 보였다. 또한, 쇄파발생시 파고비(H/H$_{0}$)는 동일한 수심과 파고를 가질 경우, 주기가 커질수록 증가하는 경향을 보였다.

• 한국수자원학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국수자원학회 2005년도 학술발표회(2)
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• pp.1303-1304
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• 2005

The sea water and the soil of surface zone in lagoon have many physical relations between each other by both physical phenomena such as tidal motion and wave action, and activity of a creature which lives in soil zone. The soil zone has an activity of filtering the sea water at lowering tide and also the organic materials in sea water are supplied into the soil. And small creatures such as small crab eat organic materials. Usually the surface zone of lagoon becomes under the sea water in two times of a day and also is coming in two times under the sunshine and it becomes dries up conditions. Authors made the field observation at Sanbannse lagoon in Tokyo bay in several times between 2002 to 2004. The observation has been done in a half period of tide in October and November 2002 and also full tide observation is made in July 2, 2003 in summer and November 26, 2003 in autumn. In 2004, three times observations of full tide has been made in three times as June 22, July 20 and December 14. This report is the summary of results on these observations focusing on the soil surface zone and sea water at under ground and wave breaking zone.

• 한국항만학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.155-166
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• 1999

The construction of the coastal structures and reclamation work causes the circulation reduced in the semi-closed inner water area and the unbalanced sediment budget of beach results in an alteration of beach topography. Among the various fluid motions in the nearshore zone water particle motion due to wave and wave-induced currents are the most responsible for sediment movement. Therefore it is needed to predict the effect of the environmental change because of development and so the prediction of wave transformation dose. The purpose of this study is to introduce the relation between waves wave-induced currents and sediment movement. In this study we will show numerical method using energy conservation equation involving reflection diffraction and reflection and the surfzone energy dissipation term due to wave breaking is included in the basic equation. For the wave-induced current the momentum equation was combined with radiation stresses lateral mixing and friction Various information is required in the prediction of wave-induced current depending on the prediction tool. We can predict changes in wave-induced current from the distribution of wave especially near the wave breaking zone. To evaluate these quantities we have to know the local condition of waves mean sea level and so on. The results from the wave field and wave-induced current field deformation models are used as input data of the sediment transport and bottom change model. Numerical model were established by a finite difference method then were applied to the development plan of the eastern Pusan coastal zone Yeonhwa-ri and Daebyun fishing port. We represented the result with 2-D graphics and made comparison between before and after development.

• 산업기술연구
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• 제16권
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• pp.83-95
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• 1996

The equilibrium beach profiles with the effects of random waves and nonuniform grain size in the surf zone are derived from the Thornton and Guza(1983)'s energy dissipation model. The derived beach profiles are the functions of the breaking wave strength, the frequency of the incident wave, and the wave induced-energy dissipation at breaking point. It is not confirmed that the equilibrium beach profiles are better agreement with the measured profiles than the classical profiles. However, the characteristic of the changes of the beach profiles with respect to the breaking wave stgrngth and the frequency of the incident wave can be analyzed which has not been studied by the classical model.