• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2002.08a
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• pp.14-23
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• 2002

Wave breaking and breaking wave-induced hydrodynamics are very important subjects in the field of coastal and ocean hydrodynamics and engineering. In the coastal zone, a submerged breakwater has been increasingly popular, since it is one of nature-matching structures with multi- functions such as (1) wave energy dissipation by wave breaking and friction, (2) oxygen supply to sea by wave breaking and breaking wave, (3) water purification by entrained air bubbles, (4) keeping. good seascape. and (5) good habitat for sea livings. Recently, the breaking wave-induced high frequency pressure over a submerged breakwater is said to have a function of gathering sea livings around the structure, which has encouraged the construction of the submerged breakwater in coastal zone. (omitted)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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• v.48 no.3
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• pp.227-234
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• 2012

This paper describes the remote monitoring of breaking ocean waves generated by Typhoon Nabi, whose name means butterfly in Korean, using a marine X-band radar in the Yongho Man, Busan, Korea. The basic purpose of this study is to investigate the dynamic behavior and to estimate the periods of breaking waves across the surf zone from radar image sequences. In these experiments, the land-based radar system imaged the inshore zone of three miles from the coastline to a isobath of 30 meters. The wave period and the dominant wave direction for breaking ocean waves extracted directly from radar image sequences were 157.4 meters and 298 degrees, respectively. However, the result calculated quantitatively by the continuous wavelet transform (CWT) showed that the period of breaking waves was 154.3 meters. The average difference in breaking wave periods between the value extracted by using EBRL (electronic bearing and range line) of radar and the calculated value by CWT was 3.1 meters, showing that the CWT method is also accurate. These results suggest that a marine X-band radar system is a viable method of monitoring the breaking ocean waves.

• Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.965-974
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• 2009

The current study reviews the formula used to calculate the stability of an artificial reef in the breaking wave zone of coastal waters. A comparison was carried out between the existing formula and a new formula that takes into account the water particle velocity in the breaking wave zone. Water particle velocity was analyzed using the Fluent (CADMAS-SURF) software program. The new formula took into various factors, including the difference in the drag coefficient due to the direction of the current and the ratio of distance between two reefs. The drag coefficient of the artificial reef due to the direction of the current was 0.84 when the distance ratio was 0.5. When the artificial reef was placed at 45 degree angle to the current, the product of the drag coefficient and the project area were 40 to 46 % greater than when the reef was placed at 90 degree angle. Our results regarding the stability of an artificial reef indicate that the new formula provides the designers of artificial reefs with a more rational and economic design rationale rather than the existing formula.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.75-80
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• 1996

The importance of the impact force on the vertical offshore circular structure member in the surf zone due to the breaking wave has been recognized recently. In this paper characteristics of breaking wave forces and the corresponding estimation procedures for them are investigated. For the characterization of the wave forces, three parts, drag force, inertia force, impact force are categorized and identified, respectively. Among them the impact force is maimly studied and the concise form of the force is proposed with the application scheme for the design of offshore circular structure member. The resulting form porposed here for impact force is well coincided with former research results by other people. Except the impact force, so called Morison equation can be employed for the common offshore structure design. The drag force and inertia force are represented as convertionally for the profile except the breaking part. In the numerical example, for thpical sea condition and the member size, the proposed procedures for the breaking wave forces calculation are demonstrated. It is found that the impact force is the most deminant one comparing with inertia and drag forces in the surf zone.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.136-145
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• 2007

When waves propagating over an underwater shoal break at the top of the shoal, wave heights are drastically decreased in the downstream breaking zone, but a secondary current shooting downstream with strong velocity can be induced by the breaking waves themselves. In the case that an offshore structure is placed in the breaking zone, the estimation of wave farce purely based on the visible wave height may cause an under-design of the structure. Thus, for the safe design of the structure, the breaking wave induced current should be necessarily considered in the comprehensive estimation of design load. In the present study, Boussinesq equation model to calculate the wave height distribution and breaking wave induced current was set up and applied to the scheme of a hydraulic model test previously undertaken. Based on the results of the Boussinesq model, fluid forces acting on the model structure were calculated and compared with the experimental results. The importance of the breaking wave induced current was quantitatively assessed by comparing fluid forces with or without current.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.39-44
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• 2009

To improve the accuracy of numerical simulation of wave trans- formation across the surf zone, nonlinear shoaling effect based on Shuto's empirical formula and breaking mechanism are induced in the elliptic modified mild slope equation. The variations of shoaling coefficient with relative depth and deep water wave steepness are successfully reproduced and show good agreements with Shuto's formula. Breaking experiments show larger wave height distributions than linear model due to nonlinear shoaling but breaking mechanism shows a little bit larger damping in 1/20 beach slope experiment.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.37 no.6
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• pp.461-466
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• 2004

This study presents a combined experimental and numerical effort to investigate wave breaking of sinusoidal waves in a surf zone. Numerical predictions are verified by comparing to laboratory measurements. The model solves the Reynolds equations and$textsc{k}$-$\varepsilon$ models for the turbulence analysis. To track the free surface displacement, the volume of fluid method is employed. As the height of incident wave increases, the wave breaking occurs at a closer point of the slope in the numerical model and laboratory experiments with the same depth and period. When a wave breaking occurs, the ratio of wave height becomes larger, with the same wave height and depth, as the period increases.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2005.09b
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• pp.1303-1304
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• 2005

The sea water and the soil of surface zone in lagoon have many physical relations between each other by both physical phenomena such as tidal motion and wave action, and activity of a creature which lives in soil zone. The soil zone has an activity of filtering the sea water at lowering tide and also the organic materials in sea water are supplied into the soil. And small creatures such as small crab eat organic materials. Usually the surface zone of lagoon becomes under the sea water in two times of a day and also is coming in two times under the sunshine and it becomes dries up conditions. Authors made the field observation at Sanbannse lagoon in Tokyo bay in several times between 2002 to 2004. The observation has been done in a half period of tide in October and November 2002 and also full tide observation is made in July 2, 2003 in summer and November 26, 2003 in autumn. In 2004, three times observations of full tide has been made in three times as June 22, July 20 and December 14. This report is the summary of results on these observations focusing on the soil surface zone and sea water at under ground and wave breaking zone.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.155-166
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• 1999

The construction of the coastal structures and reclamation work causes the circulation reduced in the semi-closed inner water area and the unbalanced sediment budget of beach results in an alteration of beach topography. Among the various fluid motions in the nearshore zone water particle motion due to wave and wave-induced currents are the most responsible for sediment movement. Therefore it is needed to predict the effect of the environmental change because of development and so the prediction of wave transformation dose. The purpose of this study is to introduce the relation between waves wave-induced currents and sediment movement. In this study we will show numerical method using energy conservation equation involving reflection diffraction and reflection and the surfzone energy dissipation term due to wave breaking is included in the basic equation. For the wave-induced current the momentum equation was combined with radiation stresses lateral mixing and friction Various information is required in the prediction of wave-induced current depending on the prediction tool. We can predict changes in wave-induced current from the distribution of wave especially near the wave breaking zone. To evaluate these quantities we have to know the local condition of waves mean sea level and so on. The results from the wave field and wave-induced current field deformation models are used as input data of the sediment transport and bottom change model. Numerical model were established by a finite difference method then were applied to the development plan of the eastern Pusan coastal zone Yeonhwa-ri and Daebyun fishing port. We represented the result with 2-D graphics and made comparison between before and after development.

• Journal of Industrial Technology
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• v.16
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• pp.83-95
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• 1996

The equilibrium beach profiles with the effects of random waves and nonuniform grain size in the surf zone are derived from the Thornton and Guza(1983)'s energy dissipation model. The derived beach profiles are the functions of the breaking wave strength, the frequency of the incident wave, and the wave induced-energy dissipation at breaking point. It is not confirmed that the equilibrium beach profiles are better agreement with the measured profiles than the classical profiles. However, the characteristic of the changes of the beach profiles with respect to the breaking wave stgrngth and the frequency of the incident wave can be analyzed which has not been studied by the classical model.