• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.82-90
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• 2021

Owing to the advantages of assuring the best views and seawater exchange, submerged breakwaters have been widely installed along the eastern coast of Korea in recent years. It significantly contributes to promoting the advancement of shorelines by partially inhibiting incident wave energy. Observations were carried out by a pressure-type wave gauge in the Bongpo Beach to evaluate the coefficients of wave transmission via a submerged breakwater, and the results obtained were compared with those of existing conventional equations on the transmission coefficient derived from hydraulic experiments. After reviewing the existing equations, we proposed a transmission coefficient equation in terms of an error function. Although it exhibited robust relationships with the crest height and breaking coefficient, deviations from the observed data were evident and considered to be triggered by the difference in the incident wave climate. Therefore, in this study, we conducted a numerical experiment to verify the influence of wave period on the coefficients of wave transmission, in which we adopted a parabolic-type mild-slope equation model. Consequently, the deviation from calculated results appears to practically cover all deviation range in the observed data. The wave period and direction of the incident wave increased, the transmission coefficient decreased, and the wave direction was determined to demonstrate a relatively significant influence on the transmission coefficient. It was inferred that this numerical study is expected to be used practically in evaluating the design achievement of the submerged breakwater, which is adopted as a countermeasure to coastal beach erosion.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.202-212
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• 2005

In the design of an of offshore structure located near an underwater shoal, the same amount of attention given to the wave height may have to be put to the wave induced current as well since some of the wave energy translates to the current. In the present study, two numerical models each based on the nonlinear Boussinesq equation and the linear mild slope equation are applied to calculate the wave deformation and secondly induced current around a shoal. The underwater shoal in Vincent and briggs' experiment (1989) is used here, and all non-breaking wave conditions of the experiment with various monochromatic and unidirectional or multidirectional spectral wave incidences are concerned. Both numerical models clearly showed wave induced currents symmetrically farmed along the centerline over the shoal. The calculated wave heights along a preset line also generally showed very nice agreements with the experimental values.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Safety
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.61-67
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• 2017

Suspended sediment transport plays principal roles in morphological process of natural coastals. It is needed to understand the reason why interaction characteristics of solitary wave and suspended sediment. The present study shows that suspended sediment pickup derived on solitary wave celerity. The 2D prismatic open channel length is 12 m, width is 0.8 m, height is 0.75 m and slope is 1/6. Generation of solitary wave is used by rapidly opening the sluice gate. Bottom surface sediments are laid movable slope section by 0.03 m thickness and experimental sediments are used anathracite and jumoonjin sand. Techniques of suspended sediment pickup rate are designed equipment ASC(Absorptive Suspended sediment Collector). It could directly absorb 5 points suspended sediment by channel water depth. Solitary wave celerity is measued by ADV(Acoustic Doppler Velocimeter). Mounted two video cameras(Model No. : Sony, HDR-XR550) are used to image processing of suspended sediment concentration and turbidity. Suspended sediment pikcup rate(Einstein, 1950) is analyzed to nondimensionalization based on solitary wave celerity. The suspended sediment pickup rate is suggested that more effective plunging breaking type than spilling. The results indicates fundamental suspended sediment transport mechanism between solitary wave celerity and suspended sediment pickup based on laboratory experiments. Finally, the present study suggests that suspended sediment pickup rate by solitary wave is used only characteristics of sediment and solitary wave celerity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.591-598
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• 2015

A hydraulic characteristics in the surf zone such as wave breaking points, wave set-down, wave set-up, wave-induced currents and run-up heights are studied using the SWASH model during Typhoon NAKRI(1412) in Haeundae Beach. Incident wave conditions is obtained from one-hourly observed wave data by KHOA and irregular wave by JONSWAP spectrum is given as an open boundary condition in the model. A Wave-induced current patterns by the SWASH model is compared with the observed currents and sediment flux patterns in that areas, the calculated maximum wave run-up heights in the model is compared with the video monitoring data, the empirical formula by Stockdon et al. and Mase. A dominant longshore currents toward the east of the beach appears due to the effect of incident wave direction and the geographical features and some rip currents occurs at the central part of the beach. The maximum wave run-up height(1.15 m) by the SWASH model shows a similar pattern with the video monitoring data(1.26 m) and the magnitude shows a similar result(1.33m) by Stockdon et al.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.121-127
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• 2003

Wave overtopping is one of the most important hydraulic responses of breakwater because it significantly affects its functional efficiency, the safety of transit and mooring on the rear side, wave transmission in the sheltered area, rear side armor stones and to some extent, the structural safety itself. In this study, hydraulic model tests has been carried out to investigate the influence of berm's size on overtopping rate by maximum overtopping rate and mean overtopping rate. The hydrodynamic characteristics of berm breakwater by the overtopping rate can be summarized as follows: 1. It is better to use maximum overtopping rate than to use mean overtopping rate for design of coastal structures in the point of view of stability. 2. When construct berm to decrease energy of waves that it was needed to make breaking conditions of wave on the berm. 3. Under the relative length of berm was over 0.13 overtopping rate was significantly decreased. 4. Overtopping rate affected significantly by the relative length of yhe berm than height of the berm.

• Journal of Wetlands Research
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.439-455
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• 2012

Coupled wave induced current modeling system(WIC) was developed from combining with the nearshore spectral wave model, SWAN, the wave induced force model, WIF, and the flow model, EFDC. The reasonable results were obtained from WIC modeling system. The ratio of the wave height calculated with respect to refraction and diffraction effects over submerged spherical shoal was occurred approximately 1~5 % errors compared to Goda(2000)'s result. The radiation stress suggested by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart(1960), the stresses due to rollers in breaking waves proposed by Dally and Osiecki(1994), and Kim(2004)'s new spreading approach instead of the previous lateral mixing approach were added to calculate wave induced force. The results of the WIC modeling system show good agreement with Nishimura et al.(1985)'s laboratory measurements and better than Kim(2004)'s 2 dimensional depth averaged numerical computations for a plane beach with detached breakwater. The present flow field computed agrees reasonably well with the measured flow field. The relative merit of WIF model in WIC modeling system is unconditional stable for time increment.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.332-349
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• 2016

OLAFOAM is the powerful CFD code and is an expanded version of $OpenFOAM^{(R)}$, for wave mechanics simulation. The $OpenFOAM^{(R)}$ does provide many solvers to correspond to each object of the numerical calculation in a variety of fields. OLAFOAM's governing equation bases on VARANS (Volume-Averaged Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes) equation, and the finite volume method is applied to numerical techniques. The program is coded in C++ and run on the Linux operating system. First of all, in this study, OLAFOAM was validated for 1) wave transformation inside porous structure under bore and regular wave conditions, 2) wave transformation by submerged breakwater under regular wave condition, and 3) regular wave transformation and resultant vertical velocity distribution under current by comparison with existing laboratory measurements. Hereafter, this study, which is almost no examination carried out until now, analyzed closely variation characteristics of water surface level, wave height, frequency spectrum, breaking waves, averaged velocity and turbulent kinetic energy around porous submerged breakwater in the wave and current coexisting field for the case of permeable or impermeable rear beach. It was revealed that the wave height fluctuation according to current direction(following or opposing) was closely related to the turbulent kinetic energy, and others.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Hazard Mitigation
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.187-197
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• 2007

Experimental study for a submerged structure was conducted to protect coastal structures and shorelines. The rectangular submerged structure known as the most efficient shape among various submerged structures in the literature was fabricated at the nose of a rubble mound breakwater. The reflection coefficients and the run-up heights along the slope of a breakwater were measured for different significant wave heights and periods. It is found in this study that the reflection coefficient is affected more relatively by the significant wave period than the significant wave height and the run-up heights are reduced approximately 28% in terms of ${^{RU}}_{2%}$ and 26% in terms of ${^{RU}}_{33%}$, respectively, by the installation of a submerged structure inducing the interception and breaking of waves.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.5B
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• pp.559-573
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• 2008

In this study, we newly proposed 3-D nonlinear wave driver utilizing the Navier-Stokes Eq. the numerical integration of which is carried out using SPH (Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics), an internal wave generation with the source function of Gaussian distribution and an energy absorbing layer. For the verification of new 3-D nonlinear wave driver, we numerically simulate the sloshing problem within a parabolic water basin triggered by a Gaussian hump and uniformly inclined water surface by Thacker (1981). It turns out that the qualitative behavior of sloshing caused by relaxing the external force which makes a free surface convex or uniformly inclined is successfully simulated even though phase error is visible and an inundation height shrinks as numerical simulation more proceeds. For the more severe test, we also simulate the nonlinear shoaling and refraction over uniform beach of wedge shape. It is shown that numerically simulated waves are less refracted than the linear counterpart by Hamiltonian ray theory due to nonlinearity, energy dissipation at the bottom and side walls, energy loss induced by breaking, and the hydraulic jump occurring when breaking waves encounter a down-rush by the preceding wave.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.130-140
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• 2017

Typically, a submerged breakwater is one of the good scene-friendly coastal structures used to reduce wave energy and coastal erosion. However, sometimes, a submerged breakwater also has a negative aspect in that a strong rip current occurring around an open inlet due to a difference in mean water levels on the front and rear sides of the structure leads to scouring. Such scouring has a bad effect on its stability. In order to eliminate this kind of demerit, this study investigated four new types of submerged breakwaters with drainage channels. First, hydraulic experiments were performed the typical and new structures. Then, the wave height and mean water level distributions around the structures were examined using the experimental results. Finally, it was revealed that the new type of submerged breakwater could efficiently reduce the mean water level on its rear side. In particular, in the case of new-type submerged breakwater 2, an average reduction efficiency of 71.2% for the difference between the mean water levels at the front and rear sides was shown in comparison with the typical one.