Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.33
no.3
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pp.420-432
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2009
The purpose of this study is to survey the present women's golf windbreaker market to develop the trendy product with supplementing design and functionality by grasping the inconvenient part through the result of the questionnaire. According to the questionnaire, 38.1% said that the armhole is the most inconvenient part by tightfitting. Therefore, a mobility of wearer was enhanced by giving shirring detail to the armhole for flexibility through inserting the elastic band with a regular interval around armhole in the design1. The swing movement was allowed to be convenient by attaching knit to the side panel. And, the sleeves were designed in the detachable form so those are allowed to be produced in two kinds such as long sleeves and short sleeves. In the design2, a zipper was inserted from the neckline to the armhole so it is designed a detachable bolero. Furthermore, it was designed to be possible to wear two different way as a jumper style and a vest style. Given wearing a vest, the sleeve part was patched knit, thereby having enhanced activity. The design1 and the design2 evaluated an objective assessment and subjective assessment. Assessment group consists of 5 subject groups and 10 expert groups to evaluate external appearance and movement adaptability. In the external appearance evaluation, the design1 obtained the better evaluation than design2. In the movement adaptability evaluation, the design1 obtained the better evaluation than the design2 for all of the items except the wrist area. In the group of professionals, the design1 obtained the better evaluation than the design2 for all of the items except the bottom area.
The study revealed that the companies are still reluctant to stop using document-based payment methods although they are aware the use of electronic payment system would reduce express and save time. Considering problems that are suggested in the conventional payment method, more companies will introduce and utilize the electronic payment system. Moreover, as the refined electronic payment system is essential in electronic trade, active studies on this field would greatly contribute to the development of electronic payment system. The prevailing settlement of international trade still relies on trading documents while the legal issues are not finalized for electronic bill of lading (B/L) and electronic bill. This research purpose on comparing some e-trading models in character and presenting the obstacles of e-trading activation and the solutions. e-trading models this research has studied are BOLERO, TradeCard, electronic L/C etc. Comparing characteristic points of the e-trading model in this article are as follows; 1)Access ways as a global e-trading model, 2)Structural and Functional characteristic, 3)Role as a global e-trading model, 5)Legal and Application issues in practice, 6)Security issues for Technology. But Further studies on this subject would be needed.
This study aims to develop a bodice and a jacket in 3D of the late 19th to early 20th based on the pattern drafting book of Gordon S. S., which contains body measurement method and pattern drafting system. The findings of this research are as follows. First, female tops of the late 19th to early 20th century are categorized as outer, jacket, vest, and bodice. Of these, this study highlights the jacket, which can be divided into 4 types: 4 kinds of basic jacket, 2 kinds of riding jacket, bolero jacket, and newmarket jacket. Second, by referring to Gordon's pattern drafting system and book, a bodice was developed in 3D format based on the adherence to the following steps: analysis of the pattern drafting system, pattern drafting, 3D virtual simulation, 3D virtual fitting analysis, and the pattern correction. A bodice pattern corrected by 3D virtual clothing simulation results was proposed. Last, a basic sleeve and collar pattern for a basic jacket was drafted, which was followed by the correction and transformation of the bodice pattern. The jacket developed shows great fit except for the issues at the armhole line and shoulder, which were caused by the unique shape of the sleeves(big sleeve head) of the time. The study attempted to develop the past costumes in 3D, providing the basis for interdisciplinary research in the field of fashion history field and suggesting a new approach for the virtual restoration of costumes. Future studies should target to 3D virtual simulation in accordance to the 3D avatar pose in the developed virtual costume.
The bill of lading serves to link imports and exports. It is the last document issued in the export process and is the most important document before import and export as it is the first document required for importers to take over goods. Transfer the right to the goods to be transported to another person through endorsement. The role and importance of the bill of lading has already been suggested in many previous studies and the trading partners are fully aware of it. In addition, all countries and international organizations recognized the importance and enacted various laws and systems in relation to possible legal problems and they have become customary in practice. However, trade fraud that exploits the characteristics of the bill of lading may occur. In order to solve this problem, various attempts related to the electronic rights transfer of the bill of lading began to be carried out, and many institutions and companies are still trying to develop a new system. As a result of these efforts, electronic bills of lading, such as bolero, appeared, and electronic bills of lading, which can transfer rights in an electronic way, appeared. Therefore, this study intends to present the feasibility of the introduction of smart bills of lading after examining the current status of electronic bills of lading and the introduction of block chain technology-based bills of lading.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.25
no.4
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pp.123-132
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2023
The term 'module' is an architectural term. It refers to the components or systems that make up a finished product. As industries develop, modules have become one of the methods that can create diverse and creative designs. Traditional modular fashion design mainly focused on structural methods, such as the combination, assembly, overlap, and arrangement of modules, as well as the tessellation of geometric shapes. However, in this paper, significance lies in exploring the application of shape grammar, a design method in architecture, to fashion design. It aims to search for ways to express three-dimensional designs, derive designs that can be worn and produced, and propose fashion design by applying the rules of shape grammar to the design process. Through this analysis, the paper aims to examine the methods and characteristics of shape grammar. The research method of this paper is as follows. First, by utilizing optimized programs for implementing the modules of shape grammar, it was possible to propose a method for producing modules of shape grammar and suggest module designs. Additionally, effective methods of representation using the Clo 3D program were explored in the design development process. Second, by applying shape grammar to the fashion design process, five-dimensional modular fashion designs were proposed, including a bolero, dress 1, dress 2, setup, and coat. The proposed modular fashion design using shape grammar in this paper provides a rational design process that differentiates itself from traditional modular fashion design. By formalizing the shapes between modules and creating rules, it overcomes the limitations of design that rely on the designer's intuition or sensibility and enables the development of more diverse modular fashion designs. This application of shape grammar in fashion design can provide an important direction in exploring a sustainable fashion industry.
There have been various attempt to offer commercial service of electronic payment. Actually, however, there has been few electronic payment model that are being used commercial service. Among them, it is estimated that only TSU(Trade Service Utility) of SWIFT will be succeed in providing commercial service possibility. In Korea e-L/C Distribution & Management System was constructed and become the first e-L/C service on a global basis via e-Trade Facilitation 3 Years Project and then started offering the world first e-L/C service. Some scholars have insisted the opinion that SWIFT L/C means e-L/C, but such opinion may be wrong because SWIFT L/C means the L/C advised by SWIFT(Society for Worldwid Interbank Financial Telecommunication) under the condition that a series of procedure from the issuance of L/C to the advice is done by SWIFT system. Because perfect e-L/C should be organically connected by SWIFT network and also, the e-L/C business between overseas banks and their customers should be organically linked with each other. The purpose of this paper is contribute to the commercialization of e-L/C distribution system by studying the current status of infrastructure concerned with domestic and overseas electronic payment and future e-payment infrastructure, seeking to be introduced internationally by doing things.
In the Spring of 2000, the Banking Commission of the ICC decided to appoint a working group to draft a supplement to the UCP 500 to clarify the position regarding electronic presentation under a documentary credit. Provisions was drafted to supplement its existing rules for documentary credit, that is, UCP 500. These new provisions known as Supplement to UCP 500 for Electronic Presentation was approved by the ICC Banking Commission at the beginning of November 2001 and came in force as of 1 April 2002 The eUCP covers matters such as definitions of key terms such as electronic record, electronic signature, format, paper document, received. An eUCP Credit must specify the formats in which electronic records are to be presented and if not, electronic records may be presented in any format. Electronic records may be presented separately and need not be presented at the same time. The purpose of this paper is to understand the main substance of eUCP and to facilitate the introduction of electronic letter of credit by studying the problems and revision of eUCP and new electronic UCP. The main substances of eUCP are electronic address as place for presentation of electronic records, flexibility of the formats of electronic records to be presented, endowment of the notice of completeness of presentation to the beneficiary, one electronic record satisfying one or more originals or copies of an electronic record, the electronic records to be examined including the electronic record at the hyperlink to an external system or the referenced system, no remark as to the time period for the examination of documents. The Roles of eUCP are the Promotion of the Electronic Trade, the Supply of Basis on the Uniform Rules for Electronic Letter of Credit, the introduction of Electronic Trade Model. The characteristics of eUCP are a supplement to the UCP, no address of any issues relating to the issuance or advice of Credit electronically, independence of specific technologies and developing electronic commerce system, that is, Bolero Service. The Problems of eUCP are flexibility of format of electronic record, heavy burden on the side of banks, and the problems regrading the number of presentation, the notice of completeness of presentation, no provision in regard to the time to examine the electronic records, and representation of the electronic records. In the revision of eUCP to resolve the problems, the things to be taken into consideration are as follows; the designation of the format allowing the banks to examine electronically, prohibition of the paper documents, the development of the system receiving the electronic records, the addition of the reception notice on the side of the banks, the setting of the time to examine the electronic records, the construction of the backup system or the dual processing system.
Vest is a general term for a sleeveless upper garment and it derives from a kolobus of a sleeveless tunic style that was started to be worn as a substitution of a chiton by the peasantry in Greek period. The kolobus started to be called a colobium or a tunica from Roman period and the former was named for a vest style tunica which was worn by the people of the lower classes in early Roman period. Similarly, a German colobium of North Europe which was worn during the same period was the same kind of clothe as the Roman colobium. The colobium came to be worn over a dalmatica as an outer garment by early Christians when it was the Middle Ages, who succeeded the tradition of colobium as they went through ancient Rome, Creek and Byzantine days. North Germans also succeeded the colobium tradition of ancient Germans as it was and so continued to wear it in tight style. The simple vest style of colobium was getting vanished from the mid of the Middle Agnes and a new style of vest named jupon was started to be worn by soldiers. The jupon was to protect soldiers' bodies from either were cold weather or enemies wearing under armors as it was made with double cotton pad by quilt. From 14th century, the jupon began to be worn by not only soldiers but also the humble of lower classes. All the jupon which were made in quilting and padding of that time began to be named a pourpoint by the humble. When Renaissance in 16th century came, the pourpoint began to be developed to an exaggerating body-line style. The neckline of pourpoint was getting highly influenced by Spain and a peacecod-belly of it emphasized the exaggerated masculine beauty of Renaissance by padding in round. The sleeves were puffed out and the whole purpoint was made to expose an inner chemise by slashing vertically or obliquely. But in 17th century, the pourpoint has been changed into more simple style without padding, puffing out and slashing influenced by the citizens' clothes of Netherlands. The pourpoint came to be more comfortable bulky style with short sleeves or sleeveless and straight side lines. The pourpoint in mid 17th century turned to be a bolero jacket style by gradually being tightened. It had been then changed into a vest style with sleeves and worn under an overcoat with the name of vest in the end of 17th century. The early vest was 2∼3 inches les in length than the overcoat and had long sleeves and many ornamental buttons on front. It was also made as a home wear to be worn it alone at home. In 18th century, the length of the vest became shorter compared with that of 17th century and the most important decorative item in clothes. It again came to have complete sleeveless vest style and had very short length reaching waist in the end of 18th century. When it was in 19th century, the vest had developed into more various style and colors and style had been applied to be worn by individuals with their tastes. Around the end of 19th century, the increasing tendency to be casual by industrialization influenced on clothes in all aspects of life and so the male vest has been gradually changed into more casual style. Nowadays, it has been developing into various uses in modern male clothes to show their characters.
Journal of Korea Entertainment Industry Association
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v.14
no.6
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pp.151-160
/
2020
In the past, musicians followed strict patterns written by composers when playing classical music. However, since the development of postmodernism, which puts an emphasis on unique individualities and various ways of thinking, following the strict patterns of classical music unquestioningly became less significant. Classical music was thought to be difficult to follow and enjoy for most people. Thus, musicians have found ways to keep the dignity of classical music but added familiarity in order to popularize arias in operas. They created classical crossover music and this type of music enabled people to enjoy easy access to classical music. However, not many studies focus on arrangement methods of changing classical music into crossover music. The goal of this study is to research on arrangement methods of crossover music based on the findings from precedent researches on operas. This study focused on analyzing musical structure including chords, rhythms and compositions of musical instruments. According to the analysis, original classical songs and popera, which is a type of crossover music, share similarities in terms of rhythms and chords. However, there are differences when it comes to compositions of musical instruments. In case of a jazz version, it uses AfroCuban rhythm as well as Bolero rhythm which is a part of ballad and jazz acoustic instruments are mainly used. Also, in order to reduce the feeling of classical music and to differentiate the jazz version from the original version, a lot of tension is used in voicing. This study can be helpful for any researches related to arrangements of classical crossover music.
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