• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.846-858
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• 2008

This study was designed to propose a method to draft bodice block pattern from 3D body scan data. Subjects were ten elderly women in their 60's, who wear basic size(B: 94cm, W: 82cm) garment. Scanning was done using 3D whole body scanner(WB4, Cyberware). Measurements for 3D data and cross section were attained using Auto CAD, by which a upper bodice pattern for elderly women was drawn on the basis of short measured method. The results are as following: As for most items, no significant differences were shown between measurements from Martin's anthropometry and those from 3D scan data, suggesting measurement from 3D scan data could be used to draft a pattern. The drafting equations acquired were as follows; width of pattern=B/2+5.5, width of waist=W/2+3.5cm, dart amount=8cm. Dart distributions were 23%(B.P.) : 20%(front armpit) : 17%(side seam) : 18%(back armpit) : 15%(back protruded point) : 7% (center back line). Through wearing test using 5-point Likert scale, resultant pattern was evaluated as appropriate for elderly women's pattern to get over 4 point. As a result, it might be said that 3D scanning application is effective for elderly women in that it doesn't take time so much as Martin's anthropometry and that their body shape vary compared with those of young women.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.112-119
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to investigate the bodice patterns by analyzing sensory evaluations. Anthropomatric data was collected between April and October of 2000. Total 283 body measurements were collected for this study including both direct and indirect measurements(29 variables from the direct anthropometric data. 5 variables from the indirect anthropometric data). Data were analyzing using percentiles. standard deviation and Anova. The appearance and fit of three kinds of bodice patterns (N. L. H type) were evaluated by expert panel and the subjects. The results of the anthropometric measurements and sensory evaluations are as follows : A significant differences (p$\leq$.001) in the height, width and girth Items was found. The results of the bodice pattern evaluations by expert panel indicates that a significant difference (p${\le}$.05) in the responses to the placement of the waist dart, the fit of the bust area and the placement o( the back shoulder dart for 20's and 30's. The result of the evaluations by subjects indicates that a significant difference (p${\le}$.05) in the responses to the placement of the waist dart for 40's. A significant difference (p${\le}$.05) in the responses to the suitability of the shoulder area among the age groups.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.360-365
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• 2000

This research is the trial for the computation of the ease-rate for the bodice pattern. The result of the analysis about the cross section figures of garment space by using a 3-D measuring instrument is that: The garment space of each bodice by each body size is definite. In the figure of cross section of the basic lines, an area of cross section of garment space and length of cross section of garment space are not increased in proportion to an area of cross section of the body. The ease rate is the same no matter that flat-rate of the body is same or different. The ease-rate is computed by length of cross section of garment space that is in proportion to the radius of the body.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.383-393
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to evaluate wearing evaluation method in order to propose well fitted bodice pattern. For this study, the subjects were drawn from obese boys at the ages 9 to 11. Wearing evaluation had use of 3 bodice type and 3 evaluative method. The appearance evaluation was to evaluate subjects by professional group. The functional evaluation was to valued subjects by self-evaluation. The quantitative evaluation was to estimate subjects through Electomyograph. Wearing evaluation was done through questionnaire of 32 item in objectivity, 36 item in subjectivity, and 36 item in quantity. The data were analyzed by using ANOVA. From wearing evaluation, appearance and functional evaluation had significant most of them but quantitative evaluation had not significant. It was known that the human sense was more sensitive the quantitative mechanism. And its obtained by both functional evaluation and quantitative evaluation, respectively was found to be significantly correlated, Independent relation was observed in the results from both appearance evaluation and functional evaluation as well as from both functional evaluation and quantitative evaluation. Therefore, we propose that it is proper to evaluate the propriety of bodice pattern for obese boys of school year, mutually compromising both appearance evaluation and functional evaluation or both functional evaluation and quantitative evaluation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.463-474
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• 2003

In this research, adult women＇s shoulder types were Classified through direct and indirect measurements to present a judging individual body size according to the type. Also, regression formula by shoulder types were calculated and presented the basic bodice pattern. The results were as follows: 1. The result of factor analysis indicated that 6 factors were extracted through factor analysis and those factors comprised 66.1 to of total variance. 2. By using factor scores, cluster analysis was carried out and subject were classified into 5 clusters. Type 1 was the inclined shoulders, wide shoulders and passive posture. Type 2 was the front type shoulders and active posture. Type 3 was the thick shoulders and back type shoulders. Type 4 was the narrow shoulders. Type f was the drooped shoulders, thin shoulder and sway posture. 3. The body types of individuals were judged by discriminant analysis. 4. After setting 4 items such as the bust girth, posterior waist length, neck base girth and waist girth as representative items and regression formulas were presented. the superiority of the final basic bodice patterns were demonstrated by high approval rate of the subjects who participated in testing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.636-643
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to establish the proper amount of eases according to the body type of men's bodice basic pattern. The 3 subjects in 30's men were selected for developing fitted pattern for each type. And the results of the wearing test for individual subject by distributing ease amount are as follows. The wearing test is administrated by a division of 12cm, 15m, and 18cm areas respectively after separating the fitted pattern for each type in a vertical and horizontal ways. There exists a significant difference in ease according to the measures of chest circumference of subjects. Also, it is shown that the more comfortable in function, the better visible in appearance as the ease gets proper. As to regions, the amount and ratio of ease chest circumference are increased in proportion to the size of the chest circumference. The scye depth is affected by the ease of chest circumference, while the ease of the interscye and the back breadth are lessened due to the effect of their appearances. And the side breadth is required as a buffer to complement the shortage of the interscye and the back breadth because the ease of either the interscye or the back breadth is partially transferred in motion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.7
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• pp.60-74
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• 2015

It is considered that jacket was widespread in the 19th century due to its simple and convenient production technique. This study aims to explore the western women's jacket in the late 19th century, which is the basis of modern women's outwear, and we focused on the patterns and construction, the technical aspect of the jacket. We researched pattern books and preserved costume materials, and the study methods are as follows: First, we analyzed the pattern of the jackets from the pattern books and preserved costumes. Second, we analyzed the construction of the jackets from the preserved costumes and compared it to previous researches. The study results are as follows: 19th century jacket consisted of a bodice, a back bodice, a side panel, two-piece sleeve and a collar. The front bodice had cuttings and a dart to make the jacket fit the shape of the body and the two-pieced leg of mutton sleeve, puffed at the shoulder. Various styles of collar and neckline existed. The pattern suggested diverse ways of designing a jacket, such as cutting with partition, dart and pattern expansion that focused on three-dimensional effect at that time.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.600-613
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to provide Torso pattern for Korean middle-aged women using 3D human body scan data. 155 women in their 40's or 50's were measured by Martin's anthropometry. Merging the data of 914 middle aged women provided by Korean agency for technology and standards, total of 1,069 subjects' data were analyzed. For data analysis, ANOVA, factor analysis and cluster analysis were done using SPSS PC+. And representative subject of each cluster was selected and they participated in 3D scanning and Torso pattern suggested for middle-aged women Torso pattern which investing the amount of ease according to each group for diffuse front interscye 30%, armscye circumference 30%, back interscye 40% using 3D human body scan data. The results of this study are as follows. Firstly, as a result of the factor analysis, the first factor was 'obesity index of body', The second factor was 'verticality size of body', The third factor was 'verticality length of upper bodice', The fourth factor was 'drop value to represent silhouette', and the fifth factor was 'physique of upper bodice'. And, middle-aged women type were classified 3 types according to the cluster analysis. Type 1(Y-type) was the long upper Torso with wide shoulder. Type 2(H-type) was flat-body type with comparatively thin upper bodice and thin lower bodice. And type 3(A-type) was the obese type with comparatively thin upper bodice and fat lower bodice. Secondly, using CAD program, point filtering was performed and approximated surface model was made. It used that generated surface smoothing corrected for abnormally extruded points and scattered points based on the curvature information. And 3D surfaces were flatted onto the plane by the internal tools of CAD program. Difference ratios of outline length and area between 3D curves and 2D plane were 0.42% and 0.54%, respectively. Third, wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that distinct difference almost every category. The movement functionality test shows that, in all the tests which reveal significant differences, especially, 'comparison pattern A' experienced inconvenience to neck width and neck depth.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.63-81
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• 2013

A Study using compare and analyze about differences among three patterns(shape and size of pattern, fitting and amount of air gap and so on) through 3D simulation. This study use 3D simulation program, DC Suite version 3.0. The results are as a follows: The results of estimation about total appearance, the pattern of Bunka is best of all pattern about total fitting and silhouette of front and back side. The pattern of armstrong and on&on stand low in estimation. As the total fitting, the pattern of Bunka is 4.40, the pattern of Armstrong is 2.60 and the pattern of On&on is 1.60. The result show better pattern of Bunka than pattern of Armstrong and On&on. When we examine about space between body and cloth, the pattern of Bunka is best. The pattern of Armstrong don't have problems about back side but front side have some problem of getting loose. Because it only have a waist dart so dart size is too big. The pattern of On&on have so much space because it don't have a waist dart. On the amount of air gap, the pattern of Bunka squash up body so it have the amount of air gap 0.08 at bust circumference and underbust circumference. Next is the pattern of Armstrong, amount of air gap is 0.14 at bust circumference and 0.23 at underbust circumference. The pattern of On&on's amount of air gap is 0.30 at bust circumference and 0.37 at underbust circumference. So the pattern of Bunka is bodice block of the best closing adhesion and the On&on is a loose-fitting pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.37-46
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• 1985

The study is undertaken to utilize the computer in pattern making for women. The automation by the use of computer provides the higher accuracy and efficiency in pattern making. GIGI Graphic Terminal is used for pattern making. The results are as follows: 1. Basic points which can be connected to depict basic pattern are represented on the X-Y co-ordinates. 2. Body measurements for bodice and sleeve pattern are as follows: For bodice pattern: center back waist length, bust girth, and shoulder width. For sleeve pattern: arm hole length, wrist girth, and sleeve length. 3. Grading of standard size was accomplished by using same method.