• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권4호
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• pp.507-518
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• 2006

This study aims to prove that traditional patchwork wrapping cloth can be a creative motive for modem fashion, and the application of it can be a way of expressing not only the pride in our cultural heritage but also the originality of fashion design. The analysis of the plasticity of 108 patchwork wrapping clothes has come up with the following findings: Firstly, the plane structure consists of 41 basic forms and 67 applied ones. Secondly, 61 contrast color harmony and 47 similarity color harmony. Thirdly, the fabric consists of 88 silk clothes, 19 ramie clothes, and 1 silk and ramie cloth. Fourthly, 47 unlined clothes and 61 lined ones. The study also expresses the analyzed plasticity of patchwork wrapping cloth for fashion with the following findings: Firstly, basic plane structures, contrast color harmony, silk cloth and the press flower coating technique become one piece dress to express splendid and elegant image. Secondly, application plane structures, similarity color harmony of natural dyeing method using persimmon, ramie cloth and the press flower coating and over lock technique become a jacket and a blouse to express calm and dynamic image. Thirdly, the needling and over lock technique used to patch clothes has become a desirable way to express fabric with unique surface effects. Fourthly, the press flower coating which modernizes embroidery in patchwork wrapping. cloth has become a new technique which can create high values with its extended the visual effects of the material. Fifthly, Patchwork wrapping cloth in Chosun Dynasty has now become a motive for modem fashion design to express tradition and creation.

• 한국가정과교육학회지
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.63-85
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• 1989

The Change of environment related to human life, science, technology, economics and education level have much effect on home life. Therefore Home Economics Education have to get out of past trite concept that it is only a method to become good housewife and take the role to widen the human life and to grow creative power as a academic part of science. For these, Home Economics should become life education, life education of secondary school has to have relation to lifelong education. To achieve effective result from Home Economics Education, the object, system and methods of Home Economics Education, the object, system and methods of Home Economics Education have to be improved and teaching material has to be studied systematically. As an object of aboves and education planning in clothing is made for deep understanding the study of Home Economics Teaching Material. And to understand the real state, made some questions, had interview with 63-teaching in Kangweon province and show the results. 1) Tab 1~20 are the level of recognition about object, teaching content, time structure of secondary school. The object is recognized as cultural education and basic job education. 2) Tab 21~30 show the real state of textbook and study of it. To take effect from school lecture other teaching material except textbook is required. 3) Tab 31~40 are the result of sewing and handicraft practice. Sewing and handicraft needs much time and almost all time is used in practicing. 4) Tab 42~54 are the planning of textbook study for effective teaching, self-estimation and teaching material making is also considered. All above is collarless blouse’s planning. Base on above result, all objects of clothing life should be teached. For the development of Home Economics Education 1) Understanding and affection of teachers is required. 2) To solve indicated problem, national policy, education plan in school and education finance are fully supported. 3) More studies is required in Home Economics Education.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권8호
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• pp.1427-1438
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• 1997

The art plastique is the part from which designers draw their inspirations to create fashion design. Many designers look for their inspirations from Art Plastique. Since the early 20th century, lots of designers led by Paul Poiret drew their inspirations from Art and co-works with artists. The direct involvement of those artists helped to position Fashion to be an art. Also, these co-works brought the mass media's attention and commercial profit. The most prevalent relationship between the fashion design and art plastique is the reproduction of art such as the 1960s 'Pop Art printed on T-shirts, which can be seen easily todays. After World War ll, art was popularized in a new society where young generation played a major role. Pop Art having image of the freedom and the rejection of tradition was considered as the major trend of 1960s. This study considers reflection of anti-traditionalism, anti-elitism and popularity as the kitsch of Pop. That is the attraction which youth culture looked for from Pop Art and the reason that 60's avast-garde cloth could position itself into the masses. Therefore, this study examines the influence of the kitsch of Pop and the expression of parody upon the major changes in 1960s fashion from which are the mini-look and women's trousers wearing. This study examines Andra Courreges who led 1960s Mini look and Yves Saint Laurent who introduced Pop dress, Smoking look and transparent blouse to find the way which makes it possible for avant garde fashion to have a close relationship with the public and to position itself to be a art.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권7호
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• pp.714-726
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• 2012

The Korean wave 'Hallyu' has proliferated in China and the trend is remarkable especially in wedding photography. Korean style wedding photography has gained wide popularity among newly married Chinese couples because it is regarded as fresh and trendy. Accordingly, there is an urgent need to develop and supply dress designs for Chinese brides who want Korean style wedding photography. This study outlined the current status of Hallyu and wedding photography in China in order to analyze dresses for wedding photography. Chinese brides were analyzed to outline the features of preferred designs. The dresses preferred by Chinese brides for wedding photography included wedding dresses, evening dresses, and casuals (respectively), and partly featured traditional dresses. The preferred design elements for wedding dresses and evening dresses were ball gown silhouettes, strapless necklines, and gather detail. As for the casuals preferred by Chinese brides, the romantic style was most preferred and the skirts, dresses, T-shirts and blouse items were preferred for the romantic style. Through the analysis, dress designs for Chinese brides who want Korean style wedding photography were developed to reflect Hallyu content as well as 2012 S/S fashion trends for wedding dresses, evening dresses, and casuals. Currently Korean style wedding photography is gaining popularity in China and Hallyu content is considered a fresh and competitive item that may strongly appeal to Chinese consumers. This study focused on the development of designs for wedding photography dresses with Hallyu related content and is to be used as a reference for the development of Hallyu related wedding products as well as the proliferation of Hallyu.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제45권9호
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• pp.37-52
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• 2007

This research developed maternity wear designed with a focus on the essential functions necessary for working women and adaptable to their body changes during pregnancy. Through Martin's anthropometry for 201 pregnant women, the size specifications for maternity wear was determined and a dress form was proposed, in order to provide the manufacturer with reference data and a prototype to verify their products' fit and suitability. From a monthly analysis on the body measurements of pregnant women, significant monthly differences and after pregnancy were found in weight, chest girth, bust girth, under bust girth, waist girth, and hip girth. Dress form was designed based on the average body measurements of women in their 6th to 10th month of pregnancy. The standard dimensions in the 8th month were 90cm (chest), 94cm (bust), 86cm (under bust), 97cm(waist: most protruding part on the side), and 99cm (hip). Compared with Japan's MAT-9 (for nine months), chest girth was the same, while the Korean waist girth and hip girth were larger by 2cm and 3cm, respectively. The woven fabric blouse was evaluated as having the best appearance, while the knitted fabric one was judged as being more comfortable it terms of functionality. For the pants, the design details of the lowered waist and curved waist belt were more functional. The tailored jacket was the best design for working women in terms of both looks and functionality. To summarize, maternity wear for working women, unlike general maternity clothes, should be designed with consideration for the wearer's somatotype and activity. Elastic materials were appropriate for functionality and dealing with physical changes. With the increasing of working pregnant women, such trials are expected to continue in this research area in order to develop functional maternity wear with multi-purposes such as breast-feeding, wearability after delivery and shielding from microwave.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.992-1008
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• 2009

This study is to present a female high school summer blouse with high movement functionality and satisfying appearance. For the experimental research 6 subjects with closest average body shapes and their body surface was measured at beginning and after selecting a representative movement the tested uniform was worn and the appearance and movement functionality was evaluated. The results of this research are as follows. In the research with the aims to improve the sleeve designed the height in 3 types as A.H/4+3, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1 and their evaluation showed that in the order of best appearance was A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1, A.H/4+3. In the order of best comfort was A.H/4+2, A.H/4+3, A.H/4+1 and the best order for movement functionality was A.H/4+1, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+3. Additional height types designed produced from elastic materials were A.H/4+3, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1 and the resulting order of appearance was A.H/4+3, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1, order of comfort was A.H/4+3, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1 and the order of movement functionality was A.H/4+1, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+3. Integrating these results shows that in using the same concurrent materials, the experiment pattern of setting the sleeve height as A.H/4+2 was the best while in using elastic materials, the experiment pattern of setting the sleeve height as A.H/4+3 was the best.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.551-568
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• 2007

The purposes of this study were to identify factors of dissatisfaction and complaining behavior in internet fashion shopping mall, and to investigate constructs of service recovery for solution to this problems. Data were obtained from 201(male: 87, female: 114) internet fashion shopping mall consumer who have experiences of dissatisfaction and complaining behavior after buying products, and were analyzed using by descriptive analysis, factor analysis, Cronbach' $\alpha$, t-test. The results were as follows. First, the most response(80.4% of reponses) was experience to dissatisfaction through internet fashion shopping mall, and the most dissatisfied items were blouse, sweater, T-shirt in upper garment. Also, in men's case, the most satisfied price zone was not exceeding $30,000{\sim}50,000\;won$ and in women's case, it was not exceeding $20,000{\sim}30,000\;won$. Second, 7 factors of dissatisfaction(called quality, payment, delivery, price, interaction, returning/changing/refunding, contract) were identified after purchasing fashion products from internet shopping mall. 3 factors of complaining behavior(called private action, legal action, remedial seeking action) were investigated. Third, constructs of perceived service recovery were extracted from literature review: perceived interaction and justice. Perceived interaction were categorized into two factors: the interaction on the part of the consumer, the interaction in the part of the shopping mall. And perceived justice were categorized into three factors: interactional justice, distributive justice, procedural justice. Usually, university students were likely to take a serious view of service recovery through interaction and justice with internet fashion shopping mall.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.39-47
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• 1988

The aim of this study is to grasp the actual state of high school girls' clothing after liberalization of their uniform and to provide the reasonable guidance materials in clothing for both schools and homes. These are the results of the study 1. In the aspect of the favor of clothing and the interest in about clothes. a. They were fond of wearing "T" shirts, blue jeans in summer and pants and jackets in spring as their school wear. That implies that they enjoy wearing active and practical clothes. b. In the aspect of color, majority of them favored blue or similar colors, Also they had the tendency to love soft, simple clothe and more students preferred cloth without pattern. c. In their choice of them, they seldom paid attention to the informative-label are not their chief interest. d. More than half of girls prepare one or two suits in advance in a season, and they would prepare them deliberately This implies that their everyday life inclothing is based on the economic motive. 2. In the aspect of the purchasing clothes, a. Most of the girls bought them at the market and some of them at the direct-sales stall. b. when they purchased clothes, most girls were accompanied by their/mother and senior girls more often by their friends. c. The price and kinds of their favorite clothes such as "T" shirts and blouse was 5,000 won or so, and skirts, pants, one-piece and jackets are from the range of 5,000 won to below 10,000 won mostly. d. In regard to so-called brand-name items by popular designers, half of the girls responded that they wear some of such kinds of items because of superiority of sewing and longterm wearing, and the other half tend not to wear them due to high price.

• 복식
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• 제65권2호
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• pp.105-124
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• 2015

This research was started to study how the design identity of an overseas fashion house was formed, changed and connected. For the purpose of the study, Saint Laurent House was selected as the subject of the study, because it began as a couture house and launched the $pr\hat{e}t-\grave{a}-porter$ for the first time among the designer brands, and also contributed to the development of modern women's fashion. Literature survey on related books and papers was performed to study the Saint Laurent House. Then, fashion collection photos of the house from 1962 SS to 2014 SS were collected to analyze and compare the features of the designs. The photos were collected from related books, fashion magazines and internet sites. The results are as follows: The features of Yves Saint Laurent's early designs were contemporarily sensational with their couture tradition. His representative designs including Le Smoking, Pea Coat, Loose Fit Blouse, Safari Look, Jumpsuit, Ethnic Look and Art Look became the signature looks of the Saint Laurent House. His designs expressed the liberation of sex, multi-cultural sensitivity and the fusion of art and fashion. His successor, chief designer Tom Ford designed with strong sensitivity of his own. He dealt with Yves Saint Laurent's design themes and signature looks in sensual as well as trendy and sophisticated way. Stefano Pilati showed the Parisienne chic and elegance. He re-made the legacies of Yves Saint Laurent with his own design style using new materials or cutting technique. Hedi Slimane reinterpreted the signature looks of the house with his rock' n roll mood for young, modern women while reflecting the spirit of Yves Saint Laurent's early stage. In conclusion, the design identity of Saint Laurent House is not just a fixed one. By the subsequent chief designers, the signature items and design spirit of Yves Saint Laurent have been succeeded, reintroduced or changed to be trendy and to reflect the designers' design sensitivity. All of these make and maintain the design identity of the fashion house.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.135-152
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to explore the role of deconstruction and creative destruction in Maison Margiela’s fashion design code, which has opened the door to a new wave of innovative design since 1988. Using a combination of theoretical analysis, precedent research, and a review of existing literature, five years of Maison Margiela's works (2010-2014) were evaluated. The analysis shows that Maison Margiela’s Design Code consists of the following key elements: Addition, Extension, Asymmetry, Elimination, Deconstruction, Complanation, and Inversion. Addition refers to act of attaching additional pieces of fabric or clothing on the existing piece. Extension refers to the act of extending the design elements, such as their position or features. Asymmetry means the irregular positioning of left-to right and front-to-back length and features. Deconstruction could be seen in intentionally frayed sleeves, open seams, and tears in the cloth. The element of Elimination was evident in the removal of key pieces of clothing such as a coat, pants, blouse, and a jacket. Complanation refers to the reversion to a two dimensional contemplation of the human form rather than the more obvious 3-dimensional form. Finally, Inversion was used by displaying an inner layer of clothing on the outside or exposing seams or zippers in a way that people are not accustomed to seeing. It also meant that the order of wearing clothes was sometimes inverted, so external layers would be worn within clothing that are traditionally underneath. Maison Margiela’s creations represented a break