As the current stage of the fashion begins to follow the styles of the past the study on the past costume is getting more importance and as the methodolgy of the study the accu-rately approached study through the rehabili-tation of the past cosume is more needed than the simple rearrangement of the historical documents. By this methodology this study can be positioned as a re-creation activity. The results of the study are as follows. 1) Style: The general silhouette is the style to emphasize the waist and to widen skirt at the lower part of the body. The front shows hourglass silhouette but the side shows S-line silhouette. The dress is two-piece composed of bodice and skirt. 2) Color and Fabric: The main color is dull powder blue end the sub color is ivory. The dress is made of wool crepe and cotton and partly silk crepe satin and taffeta. 3) Pattern and sewing: The dress is combined with lining and fabrics, The patterns. or overbodice. The skirt is gored skirt. The skirt is gored skirt. The dress has various effect not only to decorate but also to conceal seams support hemlines nd affect the depth and length of front panel. 4) Datail: The braid black velvet ribbon frill and tucks in bodice skirt sleeves front panel collar cuffs are repeatedly used to dec-orate the dress. Finally the 1902-3 day dress has the characteristics of transitional stag in which the chatacteristics of the costume of 1900s and the remnants of the characteristics of the pre-vious costume style and shows the charac-teristics of day dress well in terms of the style color and fabric pattern and sewing and detail.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.30
no.2
s.150
/
pp.316-325
/
2006
The colors of apparel are getting more important to give the differentiated character on fiber and fabrics. This study was to extract the favorable colors that become to facial color types. Research was carried out to classify the facial colors into several similar facial color groups. With JX-777, 2 points of face: forehead and cheek, were measured and classified into 3 facial color types. Sample size was 418 Korean adult males and other 15 of new males subjects. New chosen 3 subjects who had the classified facial color types, wore silver gown and black hat on his head to minimize the interaction of the clothe color an hair. The 40 standardized color samples were used to extract the favorable colors. 187 respondents answered the degree of becomingness of color samples on 3 facial color types. Data were analyzed by K-means cluster analysis, ANOVA and Duncan multiple range test using SPSS Win. 12. Findings were as follows: 1. 418 subjects who had YR colors were classified into 3 kinds of facial color groups. Type 1 was 4.59YR 5.89/5.12, Type 2 was 5.61 YR 5.41/4.79 and Type 3 was 4.38YR 6.49/4.89 respectively. 2. Favorable colors for Type 1 were 2 colors that belonged to ' a ' group from among colors that were divided into a, b, c group and 18 colors that belonged to ' a ' group from among colors that were divided into a, b group by Duncan post hoc test. 3. Type 2 showed that this type had many unfavorable colors. Unfavorable colors were 16 colors that belonged to ' c ' by Duncan test. 5. Favorable colors for Type 3 were 14 colors that belonged to ' a ' from among colors that were divided into a, b, c and 16 colors that belonged to ' a ' from among colors that were divided into a, b by Duncan test.
This research was designed to investigate the preference to textiles for slacks of college students. 105 subjects majored in fashion design were surveyed. Subjects selected three favorite materials among 120 samples presented in swatch book and weighted frequency and percentage were added by order. The extent of preference was compared by season and sex. The results of this study were as follows: 1. College students preferred twill cotton Drill foremost as a textile for spring and fall season. 2. Plain linen Crash was the most preferred material for summer. 3. Cotton Corduroy was the most preferred textile for winter. 4. In thickness and weight, textiles for winter were thicker and heavier than those of other seasons. 5. In fiber content, natural fiber such as wool were preferred for all seasons. 6. In weave of textiles, twill weave fabric was preferred for spring fall and winter season, and plain weave for summer. 7. College students preferred plain texture materials foremost and navy blue and black color was preferred for textiles for slacks. 8. Girl students preferred cotton fabrics and boys preferred wool fabric for slacks. Also, girls generally preferred thinner fabrics than those of boys.
The previous study reported that the quaternary copolymer of MMA, BA, MAA, and NEA was expected to be a good monomer composition for a binder polymer with good rubbing fastness for digital textile printing(DTP) pigment ink. However, the rubbing fastness of the dyed fabric with the quaternary copolymer binder containing pigment ink is not enough to be commercially used. Therefore, this study aims to optimize MMA:BA:MAA:NEA composition for improved rubbing fastness. And the binder polymer with various MMA:BA:MAA:NEA compositions were synthesized using miniemulsion polymerization. The particle size, viscosity, molecular weight, and Tg of the synthesized binder were evaluated. And the color strength and rubbing fastness of the black pigment ink dyed cotton fabrics with the prepared binders were also evaluated. Then, the stiffness of undyed and dyed cotton fabrics were evaluated to investigate the changes in touch as the binder structure changes.
Polyester fibers and fabrics have been dyed with disperse dyes in alkaline dyebath such as alkaline buffer and alkaline auxiliary(JPH-95) comparing a traditional acidic dyeing. After dyeing the samples were extracted with 100% DMF, and washing and rubbing fastnesses were measured. In dyeing at $100^\circ{C}$ the dyeing rate increased with decreasing fiber denier, regardless of dye baths, whereas the dyeing rates of the same denier fiber increased in the order of alkaline dyeing>acidic dyeing>JPH-95 dyeing. In dyeing at $130^\circ{C}$ the dyeing rate of PET fiber in JPH-95 dye bath decreased compared with the other two types of dye baths. In the time and temperature curve the dye uptake of JPH-95 dyeing was higher than the other two types of dye baths in the range of low temperature$(95~115^\circ{C})$. The equilibrium dye uptake increased in the order of 0.52d>2.04d>0.05d fiber. Washing fastness had no change in all three types of dye baths. But rubbing fastness was not good for alkaline dyeing except black dyes.
The research analyzed the clothing attitude which it follows in type of performance musical instrument and a design preference moral difference. The result which tries to observe the clothing attitude which it follows in type of performance musical instrument and a design preference moral difference, it was visible a difference little by little. When comparison it tries the design which it prefers but consequently most in type of performance musical instrument, the big difference is not born and not to be putting the difference of the preference design which it follows in type of musical instrument specific your neck line, color, and silhouette of the vocal musician or wind music performer. When seeing whole, the clothing attitude regarding a performance luck compared to considered seriously an aesthetic pursuit and a convenient characteristic and harmonious, there design preference is the clothes which have no sleeve, neckline like camisole, black and pastel color, design with lots of decorations, princess silhouette, and they prefer the fabrics which have softness to it. Now, I want to introduce restriction of this research and proposal. First, the fundamental research of performance's clothes is insufficient with restricted point and the literature investigation is difficult, second, it was difficult to stretch the whole market for performers because of limitation for research volunteers. Only few volunteers are from college who are majoring in music.
The purpose of this study is to supply available data for men's fashion design planning by analyzing the trend and design tendency of the preppy look in the domestic men's collection. In the men's collection of Seoul fashion week from 2011 S/S to 2015 S/S, 494 photos judged to be the preppy look by three design specialists were chosen in Seoul fashion week and style.com's web-site. Design analyses were compiled based on year, season, brands, item, color, material, and silhouette. The preppy look was found often in S/S season, three piece combinations were the most common, and "H", "I" silhouettes were also popular. Refined black and refreshing orange were used with traditional preppy colors like navy, beige, gray, and white. Contrast color arrangement and neutral, moderate tones were seen repeatedly. Two-thirds of fabrics were pattern-less with clean, bulky, and soft textures. Coordinating accessories like hats, backpacks, books, headsets were used frequently. Among the various preppy fashion types, there were 'traditional preppy' faithful to tradition, 'sophisticated preppy' with refined semi-formal look, 'sportive preppy' with active sports sense, and 'natural preppy' with natural and comfortable senses. In a contemporary preppy look, traditional and practical senses are combined with casual and sportive pieces. This study can provide the data for design planning, interpreting, and applying the fashion themes along with contemporary sensibilities since the preppy look is based on cultural history.
The purpose of the study is to get some pieces of prior information to eventually develop competitive swimming suit designs with Korean traditional images. The study has been accomplished in following steps. First, as theoretical research, the history of swimming suit design and the requirements in designing competitive swimming suits were studied. Second, as practical research, at first, the trend of the competitive swimming suit designs in the national swimming suit market was examined. And then. the questionnaire surveys of both professional and amateur swimmers about their design preferences with purchasing and fabric-related tendencies were conducted for understanding professionals' characters more exactly. This data were analyzed through cross-analysis and multi-response analysis and x 2 was used. The results of this study can be summarized as follows : First, athletes' preferential design tendency for the swimming suit designs were examined in the aspects of style, color, pattern, logo, and accessary. In style, female athletes preferred an athletic one-piece style and male ones preferred a brief style. In color. neutral, mostly black was preferred most and cold color group like dark blue and navy blue next, regardless of sex. In addition, they preferred similar color coordination. In pattern, though solid fabrics were mostly preferred in both sexes, especially Taeguk motive were considered the most appropriate pattern to show Korean image. Besides, logo was considered importantly, and swimming caps and goggles of accessaries were generally used. Second, athletes' swimming suit purchasing tendency was as a following. the number of swimming suits possessed was more than 4 pieces. the durable period was less than 3 months. and the most important point considered in purchasing was an easy fitting for men and a design with an easy fitting for women. And most of swimming athletes preferred foreign products than domestic ones, which was attributed to excellent quality, easy fitting, and good design. and so on. Third, in fabric-related tendency, food touch, easy fitting. and opaqueness were considered importantly. and durability to chlorine, elasticity, color fastness, easy draining, lightness, and so on were demanded forward.
The social and psychological approaches to clothing researches by Fluge,l, Hurlock and Barr in the early 1930's have since been developed greatly. It has now been generally agreed that clothing is the symbol of one's personality and social status, for clothing is regarded as the second skin and a manifestation of one's emotional states as well. Based on this consensus, this study was intended to observe the possible relationship between one's clothing design preference-in line, color and texture- and interest. For this survey, 200 college woman students from four universities were selected at random, and an interest-test standardized by prof. Jung Bum Mo and a questionaire made of 20 items on the clothing prferences were given. The results as commputerized and analyzed are as follows : 1. Line Preference a) Structural line : It is quite obvious that those like straight line are interested in fine arts, and curved line in physics. b) Out-line : Among tubular, bell and bustle of the silhouette, those like the bustle have shown particular interest in music, and the tubular in politics and business. c) Style : There is a salient tendency that those like a dressy style are much interested in music, and casual style in physics and physical exercise. 2. Color Preference a) Favorite color : Those like red, orange and yellow show a high interest in artistic activities and physical exercise, and black, grey and white in politics. b) Variety and combination of color ; These have shown no relationship to the interest. 3. Texture Preference a) The touch : Those like the texture with the feeling the crisp and rough are interested in fine arts, and of soft and smooth in the field of social service. b) Fabric surface : Those like naturalistic pattern, i.e. print of flowers, show much interest in music and literature, and plain fabrics in physical exercise.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
/
v.18
no.1
/
pp.183-190
/
2016
A mourning dress is the formal costume that the mourners wear to show civility during the mourning. Traditional funeral rites are the Confucianism's funeral proceeding where the mourners wear according to the National Mourning Dresses System. However, nowadays, the funeral proceedings and mourning dresses are simplified. In result of current design analysis of the mourning dresses for women, the types of the mourning dresses for women are classified by traditional styles and modern styles. Traditional styles include skits and Jeogori make of hemp fabrics, and modern styles include skits and Joegori style, modernized Hanbok style, and Western style, which consist of cardigan, waist skits, jackets, and pants. The modern styles mostly use polyester and the color consists mainly of black and white. The followings propose new designs of mourning dress for women that reflect practicality, flexibility, and diversity. First, transmit the meaning that traditional mourning dress entails Second, change the length and the width of Jeogori and skirt by reflecting the trend of the time and change the designs of the mourning dresses by using the details of the modern styles so that they are equipped with practicality, flexibility, and affordability. Third, pursue diversity by changing the uniformed fabrics and colors used on the existing mourning dresses. This study addresses the drawbacks and the points that need be improved to suggest the designs of the modern mourning dress for women, which reflect the characteristics of Hanbok and cultural traits.
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