• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.225-230
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• 2005

This research was undertaken to compare basic bodice prototypes for Internet shopping customer, and to select a profitable fit vacant space quantity between clothing and body. A total one hundred of eighteen outfits (4 types of pattern ${\times}$ 9 subjects ${\times}$5 body areas) were constructed with basic bodice drafting method of Japan Bunka Women's University according to nine male body types. Fifty-two experts analysis of the different prototypes as five body area and evaluate the most appropriate ease amount and stabilization of the simulation images on the computer. The experiments with automated methods using simulation image are based on AZ program of TORAY, Japan. Data was analyzed using percentiles, frequency and $X^2$. Taken together, the present result of vacant space quantity and stability evaluation through images shows that there is a significant difference in the size variation of the chest circumference, shoulder slope and waist circumference. In case of ease amount, chest area, shoulder slope, waist area and armhole except neckline area were shown more appropriate on the basic bodice pattern without size change. In case of stabilization, the chest area, shoulder slope and armhole except waist area and neckline area was shown the best on the basic bodice pattern without size change. However the waist area was shown on the basic bodice pattern plus 2 cm, neckline was shown more appropriate on the basic bodice pattern plus 1cm.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.396-405
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to investigate the wearing condition according to different basic slacks'patterns and to provide fundamental data on structuring slacks' pattern using the multi-dimensional measuring method. 3 different kinds of basic slacks' patterns (A, B, C) were used and cross-sectional measurements of 6 parts were analysed. The results were as follows; 1) It revealed that the girth of waist, hip and thigh effected the degree of ease amounts. 2) Moira pattern shape fully supported that the considerable body parts affected the change of ease amounts. 3) Basic pattern A was usually expected to be suitable for standard-sized or unmarried women who had not experienced body-type change. 4) Basic pattern B and C were suitable for large-sized or married women whose body·type had changed. Therefore the crotch length and depth, gredient of center back line has to be set up accurately.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.1-8
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• 1982

In this study, we attempted to make an original pattern of clothing for an abnormal type of figure, especially for the type of kyphosis. We measured the curvature of the spine of a woman with kyphosis with a Martin measuring instrument and a silhouetter in the following ways. First, we counted the rate of shrinkage of the standard lines drawn on the surface of the body according as the body moved. Secondly, placing the front and back darts, the front and back shoulder darts and the side darts according to“Munhwa”pattern, we made cubic cuttings of four moving postures as well as the standing one. Thirdly, we superposed the developed patterns of the standing and the moving postures, measuring the position change and the amount to the change of the darts, and compared them. The results are as follows: 1) In the developed pattern of a cubic cutting of the basic pattern and the standing posture, the neckhole became larger than that of the basic pattern, and the waist line was lowered than that of the basic pattern because the center back line was shortened due to the curved backbone.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.938-952
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• 1968

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.109-125
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to provide basic data for a more functional torso's pattern by analyzing multidimensional anthropometric measurements and the wearing condition. For the functional torso's pattern drafting, the fitness state of basic torso's patterns(4 types) was compared and evaluated from the cross-sectioned overlap maps by $moir{\acute{e}}$ topography. The results were as follows: 1. According to the measurements of four patterns by using the one-dimensional measurement, the amount of ease in girth item for pattern A was the smallest. The ease of clothes was affected by the position of dart, the amount of dart, and the drafting method. 2. As the results of wearing evaluation by $moir{\acute{e}}$ topography method, pattern B had the largest space length for hip part, pattern A, C and D had the largest space length for bust part. Also, in the all measurement items, pattern A had the smallest amount of ease. The space length for bust and waist part of pattern B was smaller than pattern D, but, for abdomen and hip part of pattern B was larger than pattern D. The space length of pattern C was revealed intermediate for all measurement part. 3. The significant difference of space length of each pattern was shown in all parts except bust part(p<.05). The amount of space was affected by the amount of dart, the characteristics of the somatotype, and the drafting method.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.599-611
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to develop the most appropriate garment patterns for dog. This study is analyzed the body structures and bodily movements of different types of dogs and constructed garment patterns that are appropriate for each category: the basic pattern for dogs with oval-shaped chests; and the modified pattern for the ones with barrel-shaped chests. Analyzing some of the existing patterns in the market as well as studying the size chart of one of the dog apparel manufacturers, who participated in the Fashion Week for the very first time, were undertaken in order to understand the bodily figures and movements of dogs. Furthermore, based the previous studies and relevant information available regarding some of the most popular dogs in four selected countries: (names of the selected countries), dogs were broadly categorized into three groups according to the shape of their chests: Oval, Barrel, and Flat-sided. Later, two types of pattern were created and then constructed for fitting: the basic pattern for oval-shaped chest; and the modified pattern for barrel-shaped chest. As a result, the two patterns turned out to be most suitable for pet dogs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.7
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• pp.758-769
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• 2003

In this research, I classified adult women's back types through anthropometric measurement and photographic measurement to present a judging individual body size according to the type. Also, Ⅰ calculated regression fomula by types and presented the basic bodice pattern. The results were as follows: 1. The result of factor analysis indicated that 5 factors were extracted and those factors comprised 75.89% of total variance. 2. According to the cluster analysis, Ⅰclassified the back types into 6 types. Type 1 was passive posture in the upper and the lower parts of the back. Type 2 was active posture in the upper and the lower parts of the back. Type 3 had the lowest protrusion of the back. Type 4 had the upper part of the back which is mostly bent downward. Type 5 was the most suitable shape. Type 6 had the lower part of the back which was turned over the most. 3. Ⅰconducted a discriminant analysis to judge the body types of individuals. 4. For the calculation of measurements necessary for the basic bodice pattern, Ⅰpresented regression formulas by each type. 5. By conducting the wearing experiments, Ⅰsuccessfully made the final basic bodice patterns by types. As a result of comparative experiments between the basic bodice patterns and comparison bodice pattern, the suitability of basic bodice patterns were more highly assessed.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.12
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• pp.177-188
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fitness according to drafting method of the block patterns for women in Korea. The major findings of this study are as follows: 1. According to each sensory test of the frontal view, back view, side view and silhouette Block Pattern I is the best of them in summation of the sensory tests score. Block, Pattern D and I have good shape too. However the best block Pattern D shows good score in evaluation of overall fitness and silhouette. 2. Most of block patterns, which show high scores in sensory tests, are the Compromise Method taking merits of the Proportional Method and Short Measure Method among the Pattern Drafting Methods. Box-shape patterns show low score in the sensory tests. 3. Regarding to the number of measurement, the patterns of the Compromise Method using 6-8 measurements seem to be optimal. In degree of fitness, loose fit type basic patterns are better than other patterns from a viewpoint of the total satisfaction.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.78-94
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• 2012

This study devised and drew custom sleeve patterns by using a regression equation with the data from 7 models along with the sleeve that was slightly modified to make the general-purpose sleeve pattern. To devise a general-purpose sleeve pattern, the sleeve pattern was drawn as an object for comparison by applying the Bunka drafting system (sleeve pattern by the Bunka drafting system) to the basic upper garment. Actual sleeves, made by using the three types of patterns above, were created and tested by models. Next, 30 panel members participated in a sight test of the compatibility of the sleeves to examine the validity of the sleeve drafting method acquired using the regression equation. The test proved that the custom sleeve pattern and the general-purpose sleeve pattern were more suitable for the characteristics of arm structures. Thus, the new sleeve-cap part drafting method using the regression equation was shown to have validity. As a result, since a very significant correlation was obtained for the body measurement figures and the basic pattern of the adequate basic pattern of the sleeves, this study concludes that it is possible to come up with primary data that can be widely used by increasing the number of subjects.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.391-406
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• 1993

The purpose of this study was to utilize of apparel CAD System by the classification of the basic pattern block in pattern making process. Gerber AM-300 CAD System was used for this study. The results form this study were as follows; 1. New shirts block were developed. 2. The sensory test was applied to evaluate the new shirts block for women by comparing it with Japanese Bunka shirts blouse pattern making method. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 20 items on the questionnaire, the 19 items showed significant difference(${\alpha}{\leq}0.01$)between the two, with the new shirts block having higher scores. 3. A basic pattern block was selected by the design sketch. 4. P/D/S were enabled to be constructed directly from a block pattern. The drawing, deletion. duplication, and movement of all points and lines in the pattern might be made freely, and the split, pivot, and movement of the pattern, and the attachment of two patterns were possible. 5. Automatic grading of finished pattern have been developed by creation and modification of grading rules of block pattern.