• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.239-245
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was for analysis of ease about basic bodice pattern, as the first step of the research process for the drawing method of basic bodice for women in their twenties. The five selected basic bodice were made and they were worn by FRP body The garment space of each bodice was measured by analysis of the garment space of each section in figure of polymerization of cross section by a 3-D measuring instrument. The research suggests that this compared analysis is an objective reference. This analysis not only of the area of cross section of garment space and ease but also of the girth of the body shape and wearing shape, using the PAD system and 3-D measuring instrument, can be helpful in making garment patterns.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.347-353
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the appropriate surplus of clothing for a suitable basic bodice pattern of Male Sports Athletes by using the 3D virtual twin and virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; 1. By using 3D virtual twin and garment simulation, new bodice pattern considered male sports athletes was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; surplus of chest girth=9, surplus of back length=1, armhole depth=back length/4+13, half back width=chest girth/5+2.5, front chest width=chest girth/5+3. 2. Wearing test by 3D virtual garment simulation system was useful to evaluate wearing outline, surplus of clothes and garment space. Also it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new bodice pattern is appropriate for the male sports athletes. New bodice pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length of chest and waist. Virtual models production through 3D body scan data, pattern draft and virtual garment digital program were applied to prototypic design method so as to enhance the fitness of ready-made garments. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D Virtual Garment Simulation System with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D Pattern Production Program development.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1073-1081
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• 2006

The development of foundation garment pattern on the typical adult women's body was carried out. By means of the flatted body surface shell, the foundation garment pattern was developed. And its fitting test also performed. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The investigated Foundation basic pattern was made by the allowing the maximum bust size without any surplus since it was based on the tight-fitted model drawing technique. The investigated the completed pattern was designed in three parts of front and back body, including bust. 2. The result showed by overlapping the torso basic pattern foundation and body surface development selected from body almost the same except for the shift of dart position. 3. The result by overlapping basic pattern 3 existing basic patterns. On the basis of top-bust line showed that the setting up the volume of dart of bust and its waist affect the appearance of model. Especially, it was found that the above result was related to the bust and under bust line. 4. The result of the wearing test of 3 existing basic patterns and basic pattern of this study revealed that the mean values of whole items were higher than average in type P and type E. The fitting & position of under-bust line and extent of wrapping bust showed the high points in the current study and type of P. The result of evaluating the whole appearance in three points(front, side, back) showed different according to the every basic foundation garment pattern.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.179-196
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• 2013

This research is about the mechanical properties of knit pullover of Shaping and WholeGarment according to structured patterns and form of the armhole. For the study 12 samples are prepared under different conditions and through comparative analysis of each sample's armhole around armpit in basic properties, tensile strength & elongation and residual elongation after repeated extensions, the conclusion is as follows. As a result of comparing basic properties of structured pattern of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, in all structured patterns Shaping samples weighed more. According to the comparative analysis of tensile strength & elongation of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, Machi on both sides of WholeGarment samples showed the highest strength. By comparing outcome of residual elongation by structured pattern of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, both types were observed to have the residual elongation increase in the order of Plain

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.482-492
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• 1998

With the purpose of developing a objective fitness evaluation system for knits, the basic bodice pattern for knit was drafted and the suitability of the altered pattern was evaluated. For each of nine different knits, six sleeveless shirts were made with patterns that were altered by different pattern alteration rate: 0%, 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, or 70% of the stretch rate of the knit. The panel that was composed of 25 clothing specialists evaluated the fitness of the garments. The distance from the dress form landmark to the garment landmark was measured from each experimental garment. And the results of garment fitness evaluation and the measurement of distance from the dress form landmark to garment landmark were compared. The results of this study are as follows: There was high correlation(r$\geq$0.9) between the evaluation of the panel about the garment fit and the landmarks distance. The stretch rate of knits affected the evaluation of the garment fit. The stretch rate in course of knits affected on the garment fit at crosswise direction. The suitable pattern alteration rate was lower than 30% for the knits with high stretch rate in course. It was concluded that in order to get the appropriate knit bodice pattern length, the front bodice pattern must be less shorten than the back bodice pattern. The alteration rate at hip line must be lower than for waist or bust line.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.360-365
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• 2000

This research is the trial for the computation of the ease-rate for the bodice pattern. The result of the analysis about the cross section figures of garment space by using a 3-D measuring instrument is that: The garment space of each bodice by each body size is definite. In the figure of cross section of the basic lines, an area of cross section of garment space and length of cross section of garment space are not increased in proportion to an area of cross section of the body. The ease rate is the same no matter that flat-rate of the body is same or different. The ease-rate is computed by length of cross section of garment space that is in proportion to the radius of the body.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.245-254
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to develop uniform pattern of obese junior-high school girls by using the virtual twin and 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; first, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new uniform pattern considered obese junior-high school girls was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows; bust girth=B/2+2.5, armhole depth=B/4, front waist girth=W/4+1.8, back waist girth=W/4+1, front hip girth=H/4+1, back hip girth=H/4+1, chest width=chest width+1.5, back width=back width+1 and back neck width 8cm. Second, according to the results of the new uniform pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new uniform pattern is appropriate for the obese junior-high school girls. Also, new uniform pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length of bust, waist, abdomen and hip. Virtual models production through 3D body scan data, pattern draft and virtual garment digital program were applied to prototypic design method so as to enhance the fitness of ready-made garments. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D pattern production program development.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.86-93
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to develop torso pattern of Middle-aged obese women by using the virtual twin and 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; 1. By using 3D Virtual Garment Simulation, new torso pattern considered obese women was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+5, armhole depth B/6+5, front waist girth W/4+2+0.5, back waist girth W/4+1-0.5, front hip girth H/4+1+0.5, back hip girth H/4+2-0.5, chest width B/6+2.5, back width B/6+2.5 and back neck width B/20+2.5. 2. According to the results of the new torso pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new torso pattern is appropriate for the obese women. Also, new torso pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length of bust, waist, abdomen and hip. Virtual models production through 3D body scan data, pattern draft and virtual garment digital program were applied to prototypic design method so as to enhance the fitness of ready-made garments. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D Virtual Garment Simulation System with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D Pattern Production Program development.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.607-613
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• 2012

This study develops a Hanbok Jeogori pattern for middle-aged women with a 3D virtual-twin and virtual-garment simulation system. The including criteria for subjects in this study was a focus on women in their 50s, and a total of 345 females satisfying them were enrolled for 3D virtual model. Comparative Jeogori pattern, Baik & Choi's(2004) pattern, was selected for the development of Jeogori pattern. The results were: first, a new Jeogori pattern considerate of middle-aged women was developed. The basic numerical formula were: Front and back bust girth B/4+1.5, armhole depth B/4, sleeve width B/4, goedae width B/10-1.5 and git width 5.5. Second, according to the results of the new Jeogori patterns appearance evaluation, the new Jeogori pattern scored higher than the existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, this confirmed that the new Jeogori pattern is appropriate for middle-aged women. Virtual models of production through data from 3D body scan, pattern draft, and virtual garment digital program were applied to a prototypic design method to enhance the fitness of ready-made Hanbok garments. This study serves as important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D Virtual Garment Simulation System with 2D patterns and for the future 3D Pattern Production Program development of Hanbok patterns.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.616-627
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• 2015

The purpose of this study was to develop slacks patterns for obese-schoolgirls aged 10~12 by using a 3D virtual garment simulation system. The criteria for subjects in this study were girls who had a BMI of over $25kg/m^2$. A total of 155 schoolgirls who met these criteria were enrolled. The results were as follows: First, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, a new slacks pattern considerate of obese-schoolgirls was developed. The basic numerical formulae were as follows: Front and back hip girth of H/4-0.5+1 and H/4+0.5+1.5, front waist girth of W/4+1+0.5, back waist girth of W/4+2+0.5, front crotch extension of H/16-0.5, back crotch extension of H/8-0.5, front dart amount of 1, and back dart amount of 2. Second, according to the new slacks pattern appearance evaluation, the new slacks pattern scored more highly than the existing pattern for silhouette and ease amount, confirming that the new slacks pattern is appropriate for obese-schoolgirls. Additionally, the new slacks pattern was evaluated allowing for the proper space length of the waist, abdomen and hips. This study is expected to serve as important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize a 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns and for future 3D pattern production program development.