• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.4 s.44
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• pp.457-470
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• 1992

Several scholars have discussed the relationship between fine art and fashion in meaning and expression. They have established that fashion and fine art are different branches from the same root, the Zeitgeist (time spirit), and that the Zeitgeist is materialized by various expres-sion techniques. The objective of this paper is to discuss how designers' interpretation of the Zeitgeist is expressed in their work, focusing on the 60's American society and designer Rudi Gernreich. The 60's were the period with revolutionary changes both in society itself and clothing. Rudi is the representative of the 60's designers who is called the most avant-garde and American household designer at the same time. Despite his prominent status as an avant-garde designer and social commentator, however, he has not been discussed in depth in the Korean clothing society. The consistent theme of his work was young and free spirit, and women's liberation which reflected the time he lived in. His successful interpretation of the Zeitgeist of the 60's made him establish the American-look, simple and free to move.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.95-109
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was for analyzing the fashion design imaged by Kimono in the 1990s. Through the work, what is the way to create the non-western fashion design can be found. For this purpose, I took my design data from fashion magazines in the 1990s, and referred to the literal materials about history of western costume and Kimono. The result were as follows ; Kimono in Japanese denotes thing to wear. Ki is derived from the verb kiru, to wear, and mono, thing. However, in the western world the term came to mean the T-shaped outer garment formerly known in Japan as the kosode. It is consists of sleeve(sode), wide sash(obi), hemline(suso), collar(eri), and material. There were many complex reasons for its diversity in the west, and for its evolution during the past one hundred years from the peignoir including exoticism, eroticism, women's liberation to the high fashion imaged by folklore and avant-garde. Therefore the fashion design imaged by Kimono was divided into feminine style, natural & folklore style, modern & avant-garde style.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.102-107
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• 2022

The emergence of independent cinema in the United States in the 1960s was the earliest sign of postmodernism in the country, which was often referred to as "underground cinema". The works, in a counter-cultural stance, overturned the thought of depth of traditional art cinema, not exploring the meaningful relationship between form and content in terms of artistic technique, but creating an aesthetic that echoed the "Pop Art" of the time by collaging established means of expression with traditional and fashionable ones in a consumerist manner. In this paper, American independent cinema was examined, firstly by analyzing the local and external factors that contributed to its rise. Secondly, two genres of independent cinema core paradigm, "underground cinema" and "pop cinema" were focused on, as a way of demonstrating the attention and influence that independent cinema has gained. Finally, we found that independent cinemas are also seeking for alternative exploration and diverse expressions in the context of the times.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 1998.09a
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• pp.24-25
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• 1998

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 1996.08a
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• pp.14-16
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• 1996

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.7 s.98
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• pp.1-21
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• 2005

The purpose of this research was to re-illuminated the artistic value of costumes that had shared identical history with human beings through the formation and the progress of the newly introduced Russian avant-garde an. This resulted from the fact that the Russian avant-garde art changed the human esthetic sense through the style of art that Larionov and Goncharova introduced in the 20th century. The research method defined the formation and the progress of the development of the Rayonism centering the works of art by Larionov and Goncharova. Based on this method, larionov and Goncharova designed the set and the costumes for the Ballets Russes of Serge Diaghilev and studied the molding characteristics of the costumes worn in the performing an. The result were as follows. First of all, Larionov's costumes of art were all manufactured based on the theme of nature and genesis. In other words, Larionov represented the sun as a humanistic god through the white night, the natural weather condition of northern Russia. His costumes also displayed the symbolic meaning of the personification of animals like birds and cats, which emphasized the importance of both nature and tradition. However, he used Rayonism expression when he designed costumes by applying the nature themes. On the other hand, Goncharova applied the Spanish passion, the Russian folk art lubok, and goldern cockerel or religious icon-paintings in her costumes. she pursued straight lines and abstract shapes in her costume design. her design displayed the Rayonism influence through the separation between the lines and the surfaces, whic defined the costumes as a decorative art experiment. Therefore, the study of Larionov and Goncharova had one realize that Rayonism was not only an art form of Avant-garde, but it also became the basis of the molding character of all the artworks. Larionov and Goncharova reflected the miracle of the transformation of the 20th century in their costume designs.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.221-236
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to make a contribution to the development of creative fashion culture through the expansion of creative fields in the fashion design area and also the combination of fashion and art techniques, by classifying the cases of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ expressed in modern fashion, and also analyzing its aesthetic characteristics. Conducting the qualitative research through the literature study and the analysis of design cases, it targeted the women's wear collections of Paris, Milan, London, and New York, limiting its range from S/S 2010 to F/W 2015. The results are as follows: First, based on the preceding research, the types of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ expressed in modern fashion were shown as realistic expression of clothing, movement of daily objects, double images, and application of human body. Second, the aesthetic characteristics of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ based on its expression types were deconstruction, avant-garde, and amusements. The deconstruction was expressed in the expression type of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ such as freedom of materials using digital printing technique, change in the position of clothes, and movement of daily items using collage technique by collecting objets like daily items or waste. The avant-garde was expressed by switching/overlapping in and out of clothes, intentionally exposing some body parts like breast or torso, displacing body parts, and moving daily items. The amusements was shown by realistically expressing accessories or details of clothes using digital printing technique, or moving daily items such as book and fork.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.11 no.7
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• pp.153-167
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• 2011

This paper critically examines the evolution of Nam June Paik's self-contradictory art philosophy. While the existing literature tends to slight it, Paik's works of arts remain fraught with contradictions: Paik has proved prima facie avant-garde an artist; however, as the scale and form of his works have developed, the prophetic, path-breaking philosophical underpinnings of his arts evolved to become more conformist. The present paper aims to shed light on the understudied and underappreciated side of Paik's accomplishments in order to come to a fuller understanding and appreciation of his arts and his legacy.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.97-106
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• 2016

This study aims examine specific image preferences through selected fashion style and evaluation terms. Therefore, this study provided basic information in order to help select a suitable fashion style within a desired image. As times are changing, most people obtain information about fashion through the use of the Internet by utilizing mobile phones and personal computers and less through magazines, newspapers and so on. When people buy clothes, they seem to be more influenced by the design and color than by price and quality. It is not perceived important for buying like company, advertising, the place of purchase etc. The results of the analysis reveal the structural elements of an image having a sense of fashion style and can be categorized as a natural image, romantic image, elegance image, casual image and avant-garde image. Among the six fashion styles, the natural image is regarded the highest A style. The romantic image is the highest B style and elegance image is the C, D, E style. The casual image is the highest F style and avant-garde image is a D style. In regards to appropriate fashion style by ages, the twenty-something population is investigated in finding a fit that is lively and vibrant in style while the thirty-something population is perceived to identify with a more feminine style. The forty-something population has shown to prefer a more luxurious style. Through this observation one can see that there is a distinction is fashion style between ages.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.87-98
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is ultimately subjected to the Orientalism, even though this deals with some positive effects in the realm of art and architecture as the scope of study, because through which the relationship between two different cultures will be discussed. That is to say, this research focused not only on how the presentation of 'avant-garde' visual art, which is explained as formal 'purity' and 'abstraction' as the characteristics of modern arts, could be made in the transition to the 20th's World, but also on what is the role and meaning of Eastern thoughts, which is popular in that time, for the new philosophical background of the artistic revolution. As a result, this study found that a lot of 'avant-garde' architects such as F. L. Wright, M. Mahony in Prairie School and L. Sullivan, D. Burnham, J. Root in Chicago School, and Lauweriks, H. P. Berlage who introduced Wright's works into the Europe, had possessed the 'Universal Philosophy' including Unitarianism, Transcendentalism, Deism, and Theosophy which are all influenced by Oriental religions and thoughts through historic western philosophers, although it is generally well-known that W. Kandinsky and P. Mondrian were belong to that. Furthermore, they gave attention to the Oriental religions and thoughts in that time, eventually made a historical progressive process of unification of thoughts between East and West. In a word, the new universalism was the philosophical background that made the artist's idea and presentation on 'from Being into Becoming'.