• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.142-149
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeing properties of mugwort extract by nano-cellulose(n-cell). When dyeing cotton, rayon(artificial silk, called Ingyeon) and silk with mugwort extract, the difference with and without 2 wt% n-cell which it diluted to 0.6% treatment was compared. It was found that the addition of n-cell changed the values of L^∗, -a^∗(+red ~ -green), and b^∗(+yellow ~ -blue) of all scoured cotton, rayon and silk fabrics, compared to dyeing only mugwort extract. Furthermore, it was confirmed that the ΔE and the K/S value slightly increased in all of the dyed cotton, rayon, and silk fabrics treated with n-cell at the same time as dyeing compared to the untreated ones. Therefore, by treating the fabric with n-cell, a natural cellulose component, at the same time as dyeing, it is expected to maintain stable fastness, which is a disadvantage of dyeing using natural dyes, and contribute to the utilization and commercialization of other natural dyes.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.13-19
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• 2005

Biotechnological researches in Central Asian Research Institute of Sericulture were developed since 1981 when laboratory of artificial diets for mulberry silk­worm was created. The researches were directed not only to creation of accessible artificial diets (AD) for off-season mass rearing of economical beneficial insect and for industrialization of sericulture but also to obtaining of easy reproducible source of animal proteins, carbohydrates, lipids, enzymes, enzymes inhibitors and other metabolites - bioresource for manufacture of oriental medicine preparations. Space experiments with silkworms became possible with use of AD. These experiments used mulberry silkworm as high effective board test organism with outstanding developmental, reproductive and transgenic properties having impor­tant significance in future of cosmonautics. Introduction to practice of bioprotective and ecologically pure method of drying and sterilizing of green cocoons and by-products of silk manufacture allows to increase efficiency of cocoons reeling technology as well as to preserve nativity of biological active substances in mulberry silkworm pupae that is unachievable by traditional methods of raw material processing. New spheres of application of two important silk proteins - fibroin and sericin in medicine, cosmetics, for bio- and nanotechnology are opening with use of biotechnological approaches. At present the achievements and experience of R & D in these fields are used in creation of modern pests biocontrol agents. Schemes of efficient processing of cocoon raw material, by-products and wastes of sericulture and cocoon processing are devel- Institute of Physiology and Biophysics, Uzbek Academy of Sciences, I, Niyazov street, 700095, Tashkent, Uzbekistan. oped for obtaining of traditional and new consumer products.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.33-33
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• 2011

Artificial silk that called "Ponggi (Gyeongsangbukdo, Korea) In-Gyeun" in Korea is entirely viscose rayon of which made main component refined larches and cotton linter. It also is natural fabrics with light weight, cool texture, free from the body and well ventilation property, so, feel good touch during the wearing. In addition, it often used as summer cloth and bedding because it has good absorbancy to perspiration and antistatic. The "Hanji", made of paper mulberry, is known as useful material for human. In this research focused on dyeability of Artificial silk/paper mulberry mixed fabrics using Dendropanax morbifera Lev.(called as "Hwangchil") Especially, the results were in comparison to the dyeing properties of Hwangchil with liquid/solid fermentation or not. As the results, The ${\Delta}E$ difference was dominated when the fabric dyed with fermentation by solid state at $60^{\circ}C$. And it was confirmed that the pH of fermented dye had an important influence in the coloration.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.47-55
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• 1981

Silk textile finishing has been studied for many years by many workers in order to meet more utilities for various endusers. Such studies, however, could not be successful because any natural fibers are hardly change their natures by artificial treating methods. Textile finishing is of course to improve the mechandise qualities and the poor natures of silk so that it may be available as the best textile fiber in the world. Sometimes, famous trade marked textile plays more power than its quality in the silk market, nevertheless, this should be over line of research activities. Meantime, the silk demand has been also transferred from ladies stocking to other clothes since nylon or other synthetic fibers were developed. That is why, the extension of silk demand should be developed by various research works. Specially, silk is known as difficult textile to handle it during washing or ironing process which happened to depress down the silk usage for house wives. In order to solve such problems, the reporter has been worked for many years and now, he believes that he has developed a proper finishing method to coversuch problems. The developed finishing method may be said to eligible with economical aspect and shorten the dry duration after water washing in half against normal silk textile without harming the specific silk nature. As all of us know, silk fiber starts to denature since it was spinned by silkworm and the fiber is formed as overlapped "S" type curves during its concooning process. After it is made as raw silk or sericin silk, it shows as straight line form, but it changes in to waved form in case refining or degumming process in order return to its original spinned form. Such nature is continued during its textile form and ends with hard ironing nature than other textile fibers. Mean while, the silk fiber keeps to continue its denaturing and this is iniciated by repeat of washing and drying which takes many years to reach its final stage, The reporter has found the iniciating denature of silk by his finishing process, with out heat, decreasing the swollen nature which ended with shortening the drying duration after wash. Each washing was carried out by soaking the previously weighed sample in cold water for one hour, then pressed the sample for ten minutes to eliminate its free water component before weighing with same condition. According to this, the treated silk showed much denaturing after the finishing, but the standard silk progressed the denaturing by and by with the repeat of washing and drying, finally reached the same swollen degree of treated silk, Such treating result explains that the treated silk happened to be stebilized nature by the treating immediately. On the other that the treated silk happened to be stebilized nature by the treating immediately. On the other hand, standard silk may reach to such condition by the time of worn out clothes after repeat of washing and drying for many years while the clothes will be no more useful. The decreased swelling nature has brought about the drying period in half against standard silk after all. Not only the tests of tenacity and elongation but also crease resistance recovery, stiffness and shrinkage tests were carried out after each washing and drying which he has found better result on the treated silk textile against the standard silk. The most important thing was to keep the textile feeling of silk by such finishing work before improve any poor nature of silk. The general silk has a nature to absorb smoke or dirt from its surrounding air and reaches to dirty color shade upon such exposure, but the treated one has improved such nature because of its artificial denaturing, another word, it keeps clean longer than the normal silk. Many previous finishing works could improve some specific nature of silk, but it happened to deprave other important natures. The reporters work is, however, specialized to improve the silk to be useful as Wash and Wear Silk without harming its standard natures. So far, this work happened to be a overall innovative finishing method of silk textile.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 2020

This study investigates the crystallinity distribution of ancient silk. Owing to the inherent multi-hierarchical structure of silk protein and the complicated structural changes that occur due to various burial environments, it is challenging but worthwhile to study ancient silk ageing behavior, which is based on the fact that ageing begins with a single fiber and then spreads to a whole fabric. Crystallinity was one of the most effective indicators found to reveal the ageing status of silk. Therefore, a synchrotron radiation-based X-ray diffraction(SR-XRD) method was employed to study the crystallinity distribution of single fibers of ancient silk unearthed from seven archaeological sites in China from historical periods including the warring states, Han dynasty, Song dynasty, and Ming dynasty. In comparison, the conventional X-ray diffraction method, which uses large amounts of samples, was also performed to determine the integral crystallinity of ancient silk. Thermal stability experiments by thermogravimetry(TG) as well as morphology observations by scanning electron microscopy(SEM) and optical microscopy(OM) all confirmed the deterioration of ancient silk. Moreover, the ageing mechanism of ancient silk was proposed with the assistance of an artificial ageing study. The results confirmed the effectiveness of SR-XRD as an ageing indicator, revealing the crystallinity distribution. This research could provide motivation to determine the deterioration status of ancient silk, and would also aid in explaining the fragility of ancient silk due to ageing.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.32-42
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• 2005

This paper aims to propose fashion designs based on the application of art flower technique to translucent clothing material. For study method, firstly I looked into art flower applications occurred in modern trend since 2000 as well as theoretical research on art flower and transparency expressed as artificial beauty. Second, I attempt to express transparency in a variety of unique ways by using the art flower technique in producing clothes. Third, I utilized transparent flower with translucent clothing material and tried to suggest fashion design attempting mixture of new materials. As a result, firstly transparent image and material are well fitted in with modern trend and especially it was very suitable for expressing feminine beauty. Second, transparency was the element to suggest creative formative world in fashion design in regard to flower's beauty, various shapes and colors and to provide infinite materials as design motive. Third, the combination of knit clothing and plastic art flower displayed a new form of material combination. Especially as translucent material is fitted with trend such as function, lightness and variableness in modern times of the $21^{st}$ century, it presents beautiful combination with transparent flower. Fourth, Silk flower technique is variously used in art flower techniques. Various possibility ranges are presented such as flower was recreated with artificial image by silk flower technique to be newly expressed and various materials like aesthete film can be also expressed with silk flower technique.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.6
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• pp.18-27
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• 1966

This treatise was sat up as a basic study of the artificial diets of silk worm, both nursed and wild, by storing the natural leaves in defarmentizing solution and the results obtained were as followings. 1. Defarmentizer C, a kind of defarmentizer, was developed by the author in order to store any natural diet by soaking them in the solution. 2. The defarmentizer was workable for aerophobic bacteriums, but was not effectable for aerophilic bacteriums or fungus. 3. The defarmentized diet could feed silk worm during winter season. 4. The storing method has found the importance of growthness of the diet leaves and the perfect riped leaves were found as the best condition for the purpose. 5. The perfect riped leaves were softened properly during the soaking to be fed for silk worm. 6. The defarmentizing solution has held almost the same pH value of protein isoelectric point so that the protein extraction be ceased during the soaking process. 7. The utilization of defarmentizer has found an economical value. 5. The analytical results of various wild plant leaves were found to be usable as the artificial diet mixture for general silkworm.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.16-25
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• 2012

As the test results for surface color, dyeing durability, antibiosis of cotton fabrics and silk fabrics dyed with Agastache rugosa extract, the following conclusions were obtained. The surface color of all the dyed fabrics was confirmed mostly as a GY system. As the result of chrominance(${\Delta}E_{ab}$) measurement, in the case of cotton fabrics the dyed fabrics treated with $Al_2(SO_4)_3$ mordant showed the highest value and in the case of silk fabrics the non-mordant dyed fabrics showed the highest value. The dyeing durability of test fabrics dyed with Agastache rugosa extract are as follows. As the test results of colorfastness to laundry for cotton dyed fabrics, the discoloration degree showed 1st-2nd grade and the contamination degree showed 4th-5th grade. As the test result of colorfastness to dry cleaning for silk dyed fabrics, the contamination degree showed from 1st to 3rd-4th grade. As the test results of colorfastness to acid artificial perspiration, the discoloration degree showed from 1st to 3rd-4th grade and the contamination degree showed from 3rd to 4th-5th grade. As the test results of colorfastness to alkaline artificial perspiration, the discoloration degree showed from 1st to 4th grade and the contamination degree showed from 3rd to 4th-5th grade. The colorfastness to sunlight showed from 1st to 2nd grade. The colorfastness to rubbing showed from 3rd to 4th-5th grade in dry process and from 2nd-3rd to 4th-5th grade in wet process. As the test results of antibiosis, the decrease rate of germs to virus Klebsiella pneumoniae and Staphylococcus aureus showed at least more than 99% after the wash of 10 times. As the test results of antifungal activity to mycete Trichophyton mentagrophytes and Aspergillus niger, the both cotton and silk dyed fabrics didn't gain the significant antifungal effect.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.109-113
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• 2008

Realizing the scope of utilizing by-products of silk cocoons by applying appropriate methods is the immediate crave to optimize returns. The nutritive value of pupae suits for human diet, feed for poultry, carps, fish, rabbits, piggery and dogs. The pupal skin, fat, oil, cocoon palade have applications in oleo chemical, soap, glycerin, cosmetic, artificial fibres, membranes and n-triacontanol isolation. The pupal proteins Chitin, Shinki fibroin, Serrapeptidase, glucosamine are latent precursors of post surgical, anti-carcinogenic, anti-inflammative, anti-bacterial, anti-histaminic, gastric, hepatitis, pancreatitis, leukocytopenia, neurological, ophthalmic, blood pressure, cardiac and diabetic medicines and for preparation of vitamins A, E and K. The silk and its proteins sericin and fibroin are potentially used for wound healing, diabetes, impotence, sinusitis, arthritis, edema, cystitis, epididymitis, tissue regeneration, cancer, post-surgical trauma and used as anti-oxidatives, bio-adhesives, ultra violet screens and bio-active textiles. The waste cocoons can be used in making art crafts like garlands, carpets, overcoats, decoratives and greeting cards. The in-depth research towards utility optimization and make aware this reality to sericulturists, reelers, weavers, traders, entrepreneurs, policy makers etc., is the upright want of the today's Sericulture industry.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2005

Parthenogenesis in mulberry silkworm, Bombyx mori L. acquires immense use in the development of outstanding homozygous lines with higher viability, hybrid vigour, combining ability and less phenotypic variability. It can serve as a powerful tool in controlling sex of the offsprings as well as a useful tool in selection. In fact India is the second largest silk producing country in the world next only to China and all the five types of natural silks viz., mulberry, oak tasar, tropical tasar, muga and eri are produced in India. However, little information is available on the role of artificial parthenogenesis in the development of superior silkworm breeds. This paper overviews some important studies carried out on artificial parthenogenesis, and outline of different types of parthenogenesis, methods of induction of artificial parthenogenesis, factors responsible for successful parthenogenetic development, cytogenetics of artificial parthenogenesis and role of artificial parthenogenesis in silkworm breeding. Besides, an attempt is made to describe briefly about parthenogenetic engineering which includes cloning in silkworm, artificial insemination, chimeras, hybridization, chromosomal substitution and recombinant DNA in silkworm.