• Title/Summary/Keyword: art nouveau

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Study on the Textile Design using Buttons on Western clothing in the 18th·19th Centuries (18·19세기 서양 복식의 단추를 활용한 텍스타일 디자인 연구)

  • Lee, Eui-Jung;Kang, Kyung-Ae
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.24 no.2
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    • pp.97-115
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    • 2022
  • The study aims to explore a new direction for research on buttons by understanding the functions and artistic features of buttons on Western clothing in the 18th and 19th centuries, and to use the findings to develop a textile design. In terms of the research method, the period was set in the 18th and 19th centuries, when decorative features and artistic values of buttons on Western clothing reached theirpeak, while theoretical analysis was made based on literature and previous research papers on Western clothing, websites of the Metropolitan Museum and French Museum of Decorative Arts and other website materials, as well as special exhibition materials of the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. Textile designs were developed using computer programs, including Clip Studio Paint and Adobe Photoshop, by integrating the reinterpreted motif of buttons in the 18th and 19th centuries and the styles that prevailed at that time. The results are as follows. First, buttons on Western clothing had the following three functions: a practical function, a symbolic function representing the wearer's status, and a decorative function expressing individuality and beauty. Second, buttons in the 18th century were works of art made with various handicraft techniques and were an important medium that expressed the wearer's fashion sense. In addition, buttons in the 19th century were mass-produced as a result of industrialization and took a major step forward with the development of materials and dyeing. Buttons reflected themes of poetry, drama, biblical stories, music and art, lifestyle,, along with the political and social atmosphere that rapidly changed after the revolution and fashion trends. Third, the artistic features and shapes of buttons were reinterpreted to create a design motif, and the design was developed reflecting the characteristic elements of the rococo style of the 18th century and the art nouveau style of the 19th century that can conform to modern fashion, thereby rediscovering the artistic meaning and value implied in buttons. In the future, the research on creative buttons of 20th century artists is expected to be conducted from various perspectives.

Fernand Khnopff's Belgian Symbolism and Nationalism in I Lock My Door upon Myself (페르낭 크노프(Fernand Khnopff)의 작품에 나타난 벨기에 상징주의와 내셔널리즘)

  • Chung, Y.-Shim
    • The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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    • no.9
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    • pp.171-193
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    • 2010
  • This paper examines Fernand Khnopff's Symbolism, focusing on the I Lock My Door upon Myself as a manifesto of his artistic credo in style and theme. Its title was originally in English, originating from the poem "Who Shall Deliver Me?" by Dante Gabriel Rossetti's sister Christina Rossetti. I use the term "Social Symbolism" which combines a nationalist perspective with traditional French Symbolism, in order to explain how the image of Bruges is represented in his oeuvre. Symbolism calls for psychological introspection evoking death, love, silence, and solitude and recluse from realty in pursuit of the Unknown and the Ideal. Although Khnopff shared this idea, he departed from symbolist tradition by incorporating a political milieu in his paintings. First, I discuss Khnopff's early stage in the formation of his artistic concept, including his family background as well as his early opportunity to visit the Exposition Universelle in Paris where he formed his early interests in aesthetics, philosophy, literature, mythology and Egyptian art. His early works, La Painture, la Musique, la Poesie(1880-1881), Le Crise(1881), and En ecoutant Schuman(1883) reveal his favorite subjects which were quite prevalent in the symbolist traditions of both Belgium and France. By looking at Khnopff's paintings, I endeavor to situate his Symbolism in the context of the development of Belgian modernity and cultural nationalism. Second, my analysis of Khnopff creates a new overview of Symbolism in Europe, especially in Belgium. In the absence of socio-political integration, the Symbolist painter adds nostalgic meaning to the landscape of Bruges. The scene of Bruges illuminates the social atmosphere in Belgium at that time. Since Belgium became an independent country, it tried to differentiate its own cultural and national identity from France. There was a powerful social movement for Belgium to claim its own identity, language, and culture. Bruges was, for Symbolists, the epitome of Belgium's past glory. This encouraged the formation of Belgian nationalism centering on Brussels, as I demonstrate in Khnopff's Bruges-la-Morte(1892). The relationship between Symbolist artist and writers is crucial for understanding this development. Khnopff, for instance, illustrated or provided frontispieces for many Symbolist writers such as Rodenbach, Peladan, Spencer and Le Roy. Khnopff did not objectify the exact meaning, but rather provided his own subjective interpretation. In this respect, I Lock My Door, inspired by Rossetti, started from the same motif, but Khnopff seeked escape into silence and death while Rossetti searched for Christian salvation. Finally my paper deals with the social context in which Khnopff worked. He was a founding member of Les XX in 1883 and later La Libre Esthethetique he also participated in the exhibition of le Salon de la Rose + Croix. Les XX was not a particular school of art and did not have a uniform manifesto, but its exhibitions focused on decorative arts by encompassing art for all people via common, everyday objects. The Periodical, L'art moderne was founded to support this ideal by Edmond Picard and Maux. Les XX declared art as independent art, detached from all official connections. Khnopff designed the 1890 catalogue cover of Les XX and the 1891 cover. These designs show decorative element of Art Nouveau in an early example of "modern poster." Les XX pursued all art including graphic arts, prints, placard, posters and book illustrations and design. These forms of art were l'art social and this movement was formed by the social atmosphere in Belgium in terms of social reforms and strikes by working class. Khnopff designed the book cover for la Maison du Peuple. The artist, however, did not share the ideal egalitarianism of the working class to a certain degree, while he was working in his villa he designed under the ideal motto, "on n'a pas que," he expressed the nihilistic emotions toward society by the theme of interiority such as solitude, silence, narcissism, introspection, and introversion. In the middle of his Symbolism, we find the "cultural nostalgia" or longing that the artist develops in the I Lock My Door upon Myself. Khnopff's longing toward the lost city of "Bruges" form the crux of his "Social Symbolism."

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Factors of the Modernity of Belle Epoque and A study of phenomenon of Transitional Fashion (Belle Epoque의 의상 현대화의 요인과 과도기적 유행현상론 (1871~1914))

  • 김난공
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.11 no.3
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    • pp.247-261
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    • 1973
  • In the past, what we call "fashion" was monopolized by only a small highly privileged group of individuals. To-day, we know that fashion field has become progressive democratization of taste not only in clothing, but in all expressions of contemporary living, from automobiles to refrigerators. So, we can find out how wonderful it is that our recent fashionable history was changed so fast. Whatever highly characteristic costume may be in the former, the way people dress was the reflection of their contemporary lives as well as their political status, economics, cultures, arts religions, so that a history of fashion is a history of life. Now, that categorical silhouettes make an exclusion across centuries of past history into the world of aesthetics, particularizes following ; symbolic voluminous toga of Roman authority, the religious but gorgeous Byzantine tunic, extravagant vertical bell-skirt of the Renaissance, the romantic Rococo style, the elegant crinoline and the bustle of the Cul de Paris of the nineteenth. It came true that women was intoxicated ostentations and elegances, since they had on ornamently costume which bear some relationship to the more formal Co-stesy, till the beginning of the twentieth. As Jonney Ironside said, "Nowadays, those exessive ornamentations and cumbersome design hardly belong to a civilization run by machines and in a hurry". These were once a sign of wealth and class ; at the beginning of the twentieth it was disappearing step by step. What is the reason\ulcorner At the end of the nineteenth, the emancipation of women, the movement of the Art Nouveau and the opening of the ready-made, have influenced on modern style, directly or indirectly. Finally, democratically popular costume was caused by fighting against the masculine prejudice excluded them from activities.hem from activities.

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A Study on the Fashion Item of the Symbolic Fashion Icons in the 20th Century (20세기 상징적 패션 아이콘에 따른 아이템 연구)

  • Lee, Eun-Sook
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.12 no.1
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    • pp.89-101
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    • 2010
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate the fashion item of the symbolic fashion icons in the 20th century. The symbolism of fashion icons was grouped into four classes according to the influence of a social-cultural change. 1. Icons between dream and reality: A dreary emotion that was caused by material richness has a longing for an ideal image. A typical style was Art Nouveau style, which pressed into a grotesque S-bend. While as the world placed on a economic reconstruction after World War I, rational fashion icon which pursued more function and simplify than cumbersome style and complexity came out. 2. Icons between solid and liquid: A solid icons was connected with a mode of female body during World War 1. This extremely stylized female figure. Flowing fabrics enveloped the stylized female figure and they brought a liquid icons into relief. 3. Icons between uniformity and variety: At a time when uniformity was appeared strongly within 20th century is during World War II and about 1940-1950. The uniformal icon was classified into uniformity by uniform and by mass production. A repugnance for the uniformity and imitation of fashion was tried a new fashion style. It could be called with the various of fashion icon. 4. Icons between social secession and rediscovery: In 1950-1960, 1970-1990, and the end of 20th century, the advent of the young culture was born a consumer who newly breaks in fashion. It could be included within the domain of social secession icon. While the rediscovery of fashion icon was associated with experimental new fibers, leotard, suitable replacement for wool or acrylic knit, silk that could stretch in any direction, new fabrics that were transparent, took color beautifully, and could be painted, tie-dyed, or embroidered.

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The Aesthtic Consciousness of Voluminous Enlargement in the Western Costume - From Ancient to the Modern Times - (서양복식에 나타난 양적과장의 미의식에 관한 연구(I) -고대부터 근대복식을 중심으로-)

  • 성광숙;이순홍
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.54 no.6
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    • pp.101-117
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    • 2004
  • Opposed to following the contours of the human body, the voluminous enlargement in costume, which characterizes the distinguished enlargement in space rather than the contour of human body, mean the enlargement aspect involving the vertical protrusion and the expansion of shape and volume as well as the extension of length. The costume enlargement as a different method of expression is a symbol showing a meaning of something and an aesthetic expression containing man's will. This voluminous enlargement of costume, as an aesthetic expression, has different formative characteristicsand immanent meanings according to ideals and thoughts as well as social and cultural background of each age Accordingly, the aesthetic consciousness also differaccording to the change of the times. To study the aesthetic consciousness of costume's voluminous enlargement, focous had been given to milieus that show comparatively conspicuous voluminous enlargement Periods that have been subjected to this study include costumes of the ancient Egypt, the Gothic period in the Middle age, the Renaissance, the Baroque Rococo of the recent times, and the modern era (Empire, Romantic, Art Nouveau. etc) With focus given to the principle of design obtained through this study were used to analyze the aesthetic characteristics, Futhermore, based on the spirit of the times and the socio-cultural symbolism, research on immanent meanings, as supported by objectivity and universal validity, was also made, the enlargement beauty of costume had been placed under the aesthetic category and, by interpreting the analogies of presented in aesthetic consciousness, the true nature of the voluminous enlargement in costume had been traced. To Conclude, the aesthetic consciousness of the voluminous enlargement of the costumes in history was found to have following characteristics: (l) Metaphorical (2) Unlooked-for irregularity (3) feeling of satisfaction driven by self-enlargement (4) Dignified sublimity (5) Symbol of wealth and class (6) Ceremonial dignity (7) Tradition of the nobility (8) Aesthetic ornament (9) Ideal contour of the body

Study on the historical change of rocker style(2) -The styles of the Shaker rockers, the Wicker rockers and the Platform rockers- (흔들의자의 양식 변천 연구(2) -쉐이커rocker, 위커 rocker, 플랫폼 rocker 양식을 중심으로-)

  • Lim, Seung-Taeg;Chung, Woo-Yang
    • Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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    • v.17 no.3
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    • pp.95-111
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    • 2006
  • These series articles were written in order to understand rockers of today and to provide basic data of their designs and manufacture studying pattern changes in the West. In the first article of the series reports we already described the theoretical background of rockers and the Windsor and the Boston style among the American classic rockers from the eighteenth to the twentieth century. This article contained the characteristics of the styles of the Shaker rocker, the Wicker rocker, and the Platform rocker. The three periods associated with furnituremaking in the Shaker sect are; the Primitive Era, which lasted from 1790 to 1820; the Classical Era, from 1820 to 1860; and the Final Phase, from 1860 to 1935. The important skills the Shaker needed to make the Shaker rocker are woodturning joinery, seat braid weaving and steam bending for the slats. The Wicker rocker continues to be extremely popular furniture style as the wicker proved equally effective for translating the ornate vine-like motifs popular among Art Nouveau proponents. The Wicker rockers were developed for child's, gentleman's and lady's, and it represents the most diverse forms among the above mentioned styles. However the rocker skates were often clumsy and took up too much room, preventing the chair from being shoved close to the wall and out of the way. These problems were overcome by the Platform rocker. The most important innovation was the technical development of a stationary base, which allowed the chair to rock noiselessly, without skating along the floor. The Modernism of the modern furnitures in America and Europe were affected by the characteristics of the Shaker rocker, the Wicker rocker, and the Platform rocker.

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Architectural Embodiment of National Identity: Finnish National Romanticism around 1900 (민족 정체성의 건축적 구현: 1900년 전후의 핀란드 민족낭만주의 건축에 관한 고찰)

  • Kim, Hyon-Sob
    • Journal of architectural history
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    • v.14 no.4 s.44
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    • pp.59-72
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    • 2005
  • Architectural embodiment of a national identity has long been a significant topic in Korean architectural circles. For this reason, it must be helpful to examine the so-called, 'National Romanticism' of Finnish architecture around 1900 in that Finnish architects of the time struggled to embody their national identity through their projects. Considering the historical and linguistic affinities between Finland and Korea, the Finnish architectural situation draws . our additional attention. This paper aims at showing its historical background, the meaning of each type of buildings in the stream, and limitations it implies. The atmosphere of Finnish nationalist movement, which was provoked by [Kalevala] publications (1835; 1845) and shown in Karelianism, was heightened by Tsarist Empire's Russification programme of Finland in the late 19th century Architecture was one of the most important genres expressing her national identity. Finnish national romantic architecture could be divided into three. The first is a log house style for artists' studio house, motivated by the Finnish vernacular farmstead - especially by Karelian farmhouse. This type of building signifies the Finns' will to return to their motherly soil. The second is a stone architecture style for public buildings, inspired by Finnish church or castle of an early medieval time. By using roughly-cut granite as the main exterior material, buildings of this type symbolise the toughness of legendary heroes and Finns' desire for national Independence. The third type of building was based on both of the former or more dependent on architects' Imagination and creativity. However, Finnish national romantic architecture has been criticised by some critics owing to its decorative, eclectic and self-indulgent characteristics. Probably, it was not really national but rather inter-national because of the Influences of English Arts and Crafts Movement, the American Richardsonian architecture and the continental Art Nouveau. And the negative images of 'national' and 'romantic' made some historians coin other terms like 'national realism' or 'material realism'. As another limitation, one raises the low degree of its contribution to the entire architectural history. Despite these criticisms, however, this paper argues that Finnish national romantic architecture is meaningful in itself, particularly because it illustrates vividly Finns' struggle to search for their national identity and, after all, their craving for national independence.

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A Study on the Plural Eclecticism and the Aesthetic Characteristics in Stage Costume - Focused on the World's Top 4 Musicals - (무대의상에 나타난 다원적 절충주의 경향에 관한 연구 - 세계 4대 뮤지컬을 중심으로 -)

  • Jun, Yuh-Sun;Kim, Jang-Hyeon;Kim, Young-Sam
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.6
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    • pp.1-13
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    • 2013
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the trend of plural eclecticism in costumes appearing on the stages of the world's top 4 musicals based on the general researches and establishments made of the mentioned concept. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, the aspects of eclectics appearing in overall pieces can be defined as situational eclecticism. It can be attributed to the dramatic elements contrasted in the storyline of the musical and occurs in mixture with various situations. Showing combinations of costumes from varying situations at once in the same stage makes the audience feel the dynamic elements of the piece. Second, the aspect of temporal eclecticism, which can be seen in the 'Phantom of the Opera' regarding mixture of crinoline style and art nouveau style, resulted from the partial mixture of classical elements for maximizing visual beauty in the historical pieces. Third, the aspect of spatial eclecticism can be observed in the musical 'Miss Saigon', which used costumes that combined multicultural elements by exposing different spaces and cultures such as America and Vietnam. It eclectically expresses the unique cultures and costumes of each country. Fourth, 'Les Miserables' shows the aspect of situational eclecticism, through its use of mixture of situations in various aspects, and in particular, the male and female costumes that blur the boundaries of life, death, and costume, the mixture of people's costume and aristocrat's costume, and the situational elements where the good and evil are contrasted are integrated eclectically to make the story dramatic.

A Reflection on the Avant-garde Small Theater in Paris, France (프랑스 파리 아방가르드 소(小)극장 고찰)

  • PARK, Hyung-Sub
    • Cross-Cultural Studies
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    • v.33
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    • pp.95-120
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    • 2013
  • This study is about small theaters in Paris which produced the theater of the avant-garde(or theatre of the absurd) in the 50s. Paris was at the center of astonishing passion by small theaters in terms of spectacle. Small theaters actively embraced young actors/actresses, theater troupe and playwrights who created a new way to express their plays. They were mostly obscure but showed talent and genius. So playwrights came from abroad such as E. Ionesco, S. Beckett, A. Adamov and others were able to create a new type of comedy and experience theatrical realization. On the other hand, a great many drama creators such as R. Blin, N. Bataille, J.-M. Serreau, J. $No{\ddot{e}}l$ and others appeared. We focused on studying about life of small theaters in Paris as mentioned earlier. The space of representation were limited. They were mostly about ridiculing of dramaturgy of comedy and theatrical realization. The substandard situations and conditions of small theaters fell far short of advantages of spectacle. Some of the theaters - Babylone, Noctambules, Nouveau Lancry, Quartier-latin - have not been able to survive up to this day. Other Theaters - Huchette and Poche-Montparnasse - have been able to last by performing creative activities. The theaters of the avant-garde are historic places of Drama Art. It is quite astonishing that some of the monuments did not last any longer. These were the places where La Cantatrice chauve by Ionesco and En attendant Godot by Beckett were premiered. When will they be restored to their original state? Meanwhile, the theater of Huchette have performed the comedies of Ionesco for last 60 years without a break. It becomes the museum of theater of the absurd that is the cradle of modern play. In conclusion, a great many play creators like playwrights, directors and set designers saw the light of day because of small theaters when there were not enough support fund. Their passion and curiosity still make us look forward to emerging of new drama.

Characteristics of Mise en abyme expression in Modern architectural space - Focusing on the construction work of Jean Nouvel - (현대 건축 공간에서 나타난 미장아빔적 표현 특성 - 장누벨의 건축 작품을 중심으로 -)

  • Yoon, Deuk Geun;Kim, Kai Chun
    • Korea Science and Art Forum
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    • v.20
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    • pp.315-326
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    • 2015
  • This study has started from a curiosity about how the concept and characteristics of mise en abyme, which is one of meta-discourse in the contemporary aesthetics and has affected every aspect of modern philosophy, art, and culture, are expressed in modern architecture. 'Mise en abyme' is a technique mainly used by writers of the nouveau roman after it was introduced first in the work of novelist Andre Gide; this technique of artistic expression has been extended across the whole contemporary art and has become the meta-discourse which essentially makes its appearance in the art after postmodernism. 'Mise en abyme', meaning endless formation of image between two mirrors, got involved with discourse of the various philosophers of the time such as Deleuze and Derrida, and was also expressed in the language of architecture by modern architects who have been influenced by their philosophy. In this context, the technique of mise en abyme which is mostly used in art has a relation to methods of space expression of architects. This research studied the characteristics of mise en abyme which show in the expressional method of the modern architecture based on the relationship between the technique of mise en abyme and the modern method of architectural expression. Moreover, on the basis of this an analysis was carried out on architectural works of Jean Nouvel, who uses de-materialization and singularity as the architectural language. Through the research it was confirmed that the characteristics of expression of mise en abyme in architecture are embodied in material of the surface which forms buildings' exterior, or expressed by using reflection and graphical factors. Through analysis this study allows the chance to see that even though the means and field for expressing mise en abyme are different, the characteristics of the fundamental concept are shared among them, and to think about the meaning in the technique of mise en abyme as one yardstick to understand modern architecture in modern times with no specific mainstream.