• 한국전통조경학회지
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• 제32권3호
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• pp.58-68
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• 2014

크리스티안 케이 로렌츠 히르시펠트(Christian Cay Lorenz Hirschfeld)(1742-1792)는 18세기 독일의 미학자이자 정원이론가로 당대에 '풍경식 정원예술의 아버지'라고 불리었다. 그는 '정원예술론'이란 5권의 저작에서 정원이론을 집대성하였고 이는 현재까지도 가장 포괄적인 정원이론서로 여겨진다. 정원역사에서 식물소재, 공간구성요소와 정원유형 등을 다루고 있는 이 이론서는 당대에 유럽에 널리 알려졌고, 이로 인해 영국 풍경식정원을 널리 보급시키는데 크게 이바지하게 된다. 그러나 히르시펠트의 정원론에 관한 연구는 미비한 실정이다. 이 논문은 히르시펠트 정원론의 주요 내용을 살펴보고 현대적 관점에서의 주요 쟁점을 해석하는데 그 목적이 있다. 히르시펠트 정원이론은 18세기 독일 계몽주의와 낭만주의가 교차하는 지점에 태동되었고, 자연이 지닌 정신적 가치를 중시하는 독일문화의 산물이기도 했다. 당대 독서문화가 활성화되고 기행문학이 유행하게 된 사회 현상이 정원이론서가 소비될 수 있었던 배경이 되기도 했다. 오늘날 관점에서 히르시펠트 정원론이 기여한 바와 이를 재해석할 수 있는 쟁점은 다음과 같다. 첫째, 정원예술의 위상을 높이는데 크게 기여했다는 점이다. 둘째, 히르시펠트는 정원예술은 자연의 모방이라는 전제 아래 자연의 원형 경관과 고안된 정원과의 관계를 규명하였으며, 정원은 자연의 아름다움을 최대한 표현하고 끌어낼 때 진정한 예술적 가치를 지닐 수 있다고 주창하였다. 셋째, 히르시펠트는 특정 정원의 인상과 관념이 연합하여 화학적 작용을 일으킨다는 점을 강조하였다. 특정 감정을 불러일으키는 공간을 그는 유쾌하고 쾌활한 축제와 같은 정원, 온화하고 멜랑코리한 정원, 낭만적인 정원, 장엄한 정원 등으로 구분하였다. 넷째, 그는 정원에서의 움직임이 감정을 불러일으키는 중요한 국면임을 강조하였다. 움직임이 중시되는 풍경식정원에서 풍경화식 재현방식이 적절한 방식으로 활용되었다. 다섯째로는 정원은 단지 물리적 공간이 아닌 정신이 구현된 장소임을 환기시켰고, 나아가 삶의 은유로서 윤리적 정원을 실천해야 한다고 주창하였다. 히르시펠트의 정원론은 18세기에 저술된 이론적 저작으로 현재적 시점에서의 구체적인 실천적 함의가 부족하다는 비판적 시각이 있다. 하지만 그는 공공 정원에 대한 논의를 통하여 19세기 도시공원운동의 단초를 제공하였다. 정원예술의 위상제고, 지역성의 강조, 실천이념으로 중재 개념이 그의 이론에서 우리가 주목해야 할 지점이다. 무엇보다도 정원문화가 새롭게 부각되는 오늘날 인문학적 조경론의 가능성을 제시했다는 점에서 의의를 찾을 수 있다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.273-286
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• 2016

Traditional Chinese operas are time-honored art form, they are vivid in expression, rich in content, embody social, thought-provoking, historical and artistic value. And as a splendid art form and part of China's brilliant traditional cultural heritage, traditional Chinese operas have been developed with Chinese history from generation to generation. Nowadays, with the comprehensive national strength increasingly growing, Chinese government is giving more and more importance to enhance people's awareness of protecting traditional Chinese opera. In actual fact, both Chinese scholars and the other scholars who have done some research in traditional Chinese operas and built up solid foundation for further study. Even though, traditional Chinese operas have not been fully understood by people outside the 5000-year-old civilization, especially what is the close relationship between the apparel and accessories and the names of dramas. Based on this condition, the paper selects and summarizes names of apparel and accessories in traditional Chinese dramas as its thesis, intending to explore the relationship between the apparel and accessories and the names of dramas, analyzing how such names in dramas highlight themes and promote the development of unique storylines. The paper will help Western readers further understand the meaning of traditional operas names' behind these costumes and promote Chinese traditional dramas spreading to abroad.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.108-127
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine the principles of clothing design and the way of design approach in Lamanova. She caused a revolution in the art of dress and created the foundation for costume design theory. She Addressed Art in everyday life to self-taught dressmakers. The distinguishing feature of the design is simplicity and functionality. In an article "The Russian Style", Lamanova raised the question of the new Soviet costume and traditional costume. In "On Contemporary Costume" she classified the new forms of clothes into everyday and holiday attire, showed the principles of costume, and analyzed in detail the necessity of constructing a costume to suit the individual figure. In "On the Rationality of Costume", she found a basis theory for clothing design which is for whom, from what, and for what purpose. Lamanova's theory was made public in full in 1928 and was presented at the exhibition of Handmade Textiles and Embroidery in Women's Contemporary Costume. The main contents are the costume's purpose, it's material, the figure of its wearer, and its form. She argued that the new costume could be in line with the new life and her theory could be the creed of clothing designers. The principles of Lamanova's theory can still be applied today, not only in Russian traditional and contemporary costume, but in contemporary world fashion.

• 한국실내디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국실내디자인학회 2006년도 추계학술발표대회 논문집
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• pp.109-114
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• 2006

The world has become one united world so that it is worthless to divide it into two; the East and West. In the 20th century, eastern perspectives proliferated in western science involving theology, philosophy and psychotherapy. In this time of various trends of ideas emerged minimalism, artistic and cultural current seeking simplicity and conciseness. This current of idea appeared about the time of World War II in visual art, and then expanded to other fields like music, architecture, fashion and philosophy in diverse forms. Minimalism is also presented in interior space with extreme form of simplicity and detail, revealing parts of the space as delicate and pure style with emphasis on purity of the space itself. In this research, demonstrate clear features of eastern view of space appeared in minimalism of interior design mainly in America. The reason the scope of study is limited to America is that America is the origin of minimal art and has been hub of modern design since the 1930s. The research, first, finds out the origin and conceptual idea of minimalism and features of eastern view of space. Based on this understanding, further study has been carried to discover relation of minimalistic interior space to eastern view of space and to analyze eastern characteristic expressed in minimalistic space by examination of cases pertaining to commercial space.

• 복식
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• 제56권3호
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• pp.129-142
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• 2006

The historicism and romanticism of John Galliano's designs are rivaled only by the spectacular and theatrical nature of his fashion shows; romantic silhouette, the complexity of the cut and, of course, the painstaking attention to historical detail. Galliano's approach is very much that of a British designer in that he absorbs wildly diverging historical and cultural elements to invent new hybridizations of the contemporary. Galliano started his career as part of the wildly uninhibited avant-garde London design scene. His designs were twisted and artfully torn, weired and also beautiful. The purpose of this study is to investigate the Comic Expression depicted on John Galliano's works by borrowing the Comic. The Comic or the Comedy is a kind of art form that signifies exciting effects, and so, is a means of raising a laugh. The similar concepts of the Comic already were depicted by means of transformation and distortion of form, satire, fantastic pastiche and reversion of substances on Cubism, Dada, Surrealism, Pop Art and Postmodernism. Therefore, John Galliano selected the quixotic expressional methods to seek for having playful fun. The aesthetics of the Comic is the beauty based on quantitative or qualitative contradiction between expectations and realizations. That is, the Comic is characterized by getting rid of stress through laugh with clarifying a subject of contradiction. This study found that John Galliano's designs are expressed the quixotic comic on Historical image, Exotic image and Primitive image to make a complaint against the social evils.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권5호
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• pp.676-690
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• 2013

This study explored the historical meaning and the present practices of Indonesian batik. Relevant literature was reviewed first; subsequently, interviews and observations were conducted to achieve the purpose of the study. Historically, batik was an integral part of the Javanese court art as well as a representation of each regional culture. Batik also became an important means to reveal a national identity in postcolonial Indonesia in the 1950s. There exist two types of traditional and modern type batik in present Indonesia. The traditional batik refers to batik tulis, batik cap, and the combination of tulis and cap. The modern batik is comprised of a batik print as well as the combination of the print and the traditional batik. The traditional batik was practiced at the small-sized village batik workshops and in the government batik research center. A few batik workshops often co-operate with modern screen print factories; however, the use natural dyes for the dyeing of batik cloth is rarely found. Batik was used for varied objects made from fabric materials that include clothing, small fashion items, living supplies and furniture, as well as fine art such as paintings and wooden crafts.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.277-294
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to examine characteristics of symbolism as an important trend of the end of centuries, by comparing the symbolic characteristics from two periods, modern(1880∼1910s) and comtemporary(1990s), based on the typical characteristics of symbolic art by Robert R. Delevoy. Af for the study method, the contents analysis is adopted to present an objective data analysis and interpretation accompanied by theoretical approach through literature survey. Delevoy classifies symbolism into three categories such as mysticism, eroticism, and decorativeness. This study is developed based on the Delevoy's three categories. symbolistic costume reflecting systems of the society and the phases of the times, became to contain all aspects of functional, symbolic, and practical. Especially, the costume I contemporary era adopted a new approach, philosophical factors controling human's sensibility, and a sincere and analytical attitude on progress of technology. This study provide the fact that costume is a part to create aesthetic of self-expression as a field of formative art. Contemporary costume allows vital power for daily life of human by pursuing new aesthetic value, and it expresses inner world of human and moves on future-oriented to regain humanity. The symbolistic characteristics will continue to influence varous aspects of our society and play a main role in shaping the purpose of fashion design in the 21st century.

• 복식
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• 제57권6호
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• pp.62-70
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to examine a unique characteristic of the colors of the costumes in Korean basic culture in the aim of seeking Five-elements color found in Korean civilian's costume culture. The scope of Korean basic culture was 32 items specified as an import intangible cultural asset in the side of religion and art for the majority of the Korean people. Within these limits, the colors of the dress, accessories, instruments were extracted by comparing with the naked eye in NCS Color System. The result of this investigation was that Red was yellowish red and high chromatic and deep tone within 4area. Blue was purplish blue and high chromatic and deep tone within 4area, similarly Red. Yellow was pure yellow and high chromatic and bright tone within 3area. Red and Blue in Korean basic culture were more primary color and more high brightness than Korean traditional colors. Religion and art fer Korean civilian revealing the Korean basic culture reflected impending real-life of Korean civilian who intend to overcome their desperate reality at using Five-elements color in their costume.

• 복식
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• 제41권
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• pp.23-47
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• 1998

Ornaments is a province of the fashion. It usually express noble metals and jewel's adorn-ment as the symbol of status and riches for a long time. The ornament design of Jewels drawing project and a product by computer are increased development and as exertion as a realization of automation. Through the use of CAD software(Auto CAD R 13 & Jewel CAD) \circled1 A design development of the jewels in industrial society \circled2 A metals art & design on the dress and it's ornaments - Study about application of principle(liberal curve, arrangement of repeated form, gradual unity, rhythmical harmony) Although Auto CAD don't various expression of Jewels than a Jewel CAD, formative.scientific.funtional development of geometrical form is free. That is (to say), geometrical form is given much weigh in the general CAD, but Jewel CAD made concentrate software on the jewels design for the expression of liberal form. The CAD/CAM software for jewellery program is composed of main menu, icons, hotkeys. Changing form is derived from a definite point, curve elements of a drawing. \circled1 3-Dimensional \circled2 Easy and flexible \circled3 Bulit-in and self created library \circled4 From simple wire frame to full color images. As a CAD can practice all the creation activity effectively, from Design & Drafting Software to Rendering generally can present precise results. A point of view of the connection the scientist and art, this practicableness of CAD have a lot of possiblity of development. That will do much for the related fields of industry. Consequently, subjective intension of a creator & humanity with value plays role in practical application of the design.

• 복식
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• 제61권9호
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• pp.50-59
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• 2011

Recently the word "digital" is widely used in almost every field and is dominating this generation. Digital has become the most significant characteristic representing the 21st century, and is leading change across wide range of our life-styles in our culture and thoughts. New art is in harmony with digital in the 21st century. Digital photography is simpler, faster and newer than the analog system of the past. From ancient times, the nature has been the subject of art, and many designers have studied the ways to create beauty from nature. In this study, I chose the lotus as the subject material of textile design development. The lotus invokes a sense of stillness, and nestles many fluid elements, including the curved fluid lotus, rhythmic lotus petal, sinuous lotus leaf, radial vein, lotus pip and oval seed. Therefore, I tried to use these elements of lotus for development of textile design. For this purpose, I photographed the lotus with a digital camera as equipment of design development. Then, on computer, I have developed six textile designs through the process of modification and editing by using the adobe illustrator program.