• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.963-973
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• 2008

Clothing pressure is closely connected with the degree of comfort of an athlete's tight-fitting garments. Therefore, the construction of sports garments is very important to the wearer's athletic performance. In this study, the fundamental relationship between the reduction rates of stretch fabrics and clothing pressure was explored with the aim of improving clothing comfort and obtaining a systematic pattern reduction for women's tight-fitting bodysuits. A women's bodysuit pattern was obtained by the draping method using a dressform. The basic pattern was divided into four parts and changed into reduced pattems according to the amount of fabric stretch determined by ASTM D2594. Clothing pressure was measured using an air-pack-type pressure sensor (model AMI 3037-2) at 20 locations (shoulder, 9 locations; bust, 5; and armhole, 6). Among the 15 garments tested, the mean pressure of the A1 bodysuit was 4.60 $gf/cm^2$, and that of the C5 bodysuit was 22.98 $gf/cm^2$. The mean pressures of the bodysuits with reduction rates of 10% and 20% were below 10 $gf/cm^2$, while those of suits with reduction rates of 30%,40%, and 50% (except C5) were below 20 $gf/cm^2$. The pressure at the shoulder was 9.50$\sim$32.24 $gf/cm^2$, which was higher than that at the bust (3.34$\sim$24.56 $gf/cm^2$) and the armhole (0.95$\sim$12.15 $gf/cm^2$). The mean pressures of the 15 bodysuits were divided into five groups using analysis of variance (ANOVA), and were found to be significantly different (p<0.001). Regression analysis afforded the following expression: mean pressure ($gf/cm^2$) = 1.607 + 0.369[reduction rate (%)].

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.144-158
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to develop a bodice block suitable for women in their 20s with turtle neck syndrome. The problem of turtle neck syndrome body type was derived through the evaluation of bodice blocks. First, the length of the front bodice was longer and the length of the back bodice was shorter. Second, the front neck point, back neck point, and the shoulder line were not in place. Third, the side neck was pushed up. Fourth, the length of armhole was long and it floated. Fifth, the front hem was attached to the body and the back hem was away from the body. A finally developed pattern was designed by developing four test patterns to solve the problem that appeared in a selected bodice pattern, and a t-test was conducted to determine the difference in the appearance evaluation by virtual clothing between the two patterns, bodice block and the development pattern. According to the result, the fit was not good from the side body because the position of the side neck point was not in a place due to the characteristics of the body shape of turtle neck syndrome, but the problems of the anterior neck position, the position of the back neck point, the shoulder line position, and the armhole shape were improved in the developed pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.1084-1095
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• 1996

The purpose of this study was to compare the effect of clothing materials and the opening of the garment on the microclimate of the skin simulating system during the coupled heat and moisture transfer. To determine the effect of size and location of openness of the garment, openness was simulated by removing parts of the spacer ring of the modelling system. To evaluate the changes of humidity and temperature of air layer in the system, buffering indice, Kd and Pr, and efficiency of openness were determined. When the openness was imparted to the system, the transport rate of heat and moisture increased abruptly; at the total openness of 26.4%, which simulated the openness of neck, armhole and waist, Kd increased at least more than three times of the closed system. As the openness increased, the effect of clothing materials decreased gradually to lose its effect at the 60% openness and approached the value of nude. Temperature regulating index showed, however, higher value than nude which was apparently due to the still air layer.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.185-198
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• 1997

This study was initiated to research on the uniform preference uniform satisfaction and wearing of female workers' uniform of the fiber firms. Data was obtained from 361 female workers of the fiber firms in Chon Buk. And it was analyzed by frequency percent mean duncan's multiple test. The results of this study were as follows; 1) Pocket sleeve and front hem were parts of the damage. The weaving workers were mostly wore upper and under garments but most of there workers were only wore an upper garment on the basic type of uniform The older and married were small in the fitness of uniform the armhole sleeve girth sleeve length and breast girth were unfitted 2) Workers was dissatisfied to the noise and the dust in working environment. Uniform satisfaction of workers were mostly low design color and fabric were the lowest factors of uniform satisfaction. The satisfaction of material were also low the lowest factors were absorptiveness elasticity breathability. Workers wanted the fashion and light colored uniform but they prefered function activity to work and manageability on wearing rather than externals among the uniform preference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.1 s.41
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• pp.53-63
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• 1992

The purpose of this study is to investigate the method of trace gas technique by G.C and the effects of the type of blouse on ventilation. The experimental system employed a trace gas technique in which ventilation was monitored to determine oxigen exchange rate. The experimental variables were tested with three types of blouse depending on the sizes of neckline, armhole and waist line. Exercise conditions include standing and walking position. The results and discussion forcused on the construct validity of the apparatus/testing protocol. the effect of experimental variables on ventilation was also discussed.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.42 no.8
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• pp.203-218
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• 2004

Recently, knitted materials are used more often than ever before in fashion. Therefore it is necessary to study their application into garment patterns. The purpose of this study was to develop a system by which the tensile property of knitted fabrics can be applied. In this study, 5 different distribution methods of tensile property were tested on 2 sample fabrics which have a lower and higher tensile property than moderate-stretch. The subjects were five women within an age range from 18 to 24 who showed average body figures. The major findings derived from this investigation were as follows; The 4th method was regarded as the most valid. The 4th method was fixed proportional alteration based on the reduction amount of bust girth, i.e. front (back) width and shoulder width reduced by 60％ of the bust girth reduction and neck point reduced by 28％ of the bust girth reduction. When the reduction was based on the proportion of the actual measurements, the alteration was too severe, so that the armhole curve was changed into a very uncomfortable curve.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.737-744
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• 1999

Underwear made of plain and 1$\times$1 rib-knit cotton fabric were laundered to evaluate the change of the size and the tensile properties. For laundering pulsator and drum washers were used. After 30 washing cycles the amount of shrinkage and the extension were different with washer types. Underwear laundered by the drum type was shrunken in the neck line armhole line and hem line were extended and the bodice width and side length were shrunken,. Tensile strength of the knitted fabric was not decreased through repeated washings because the fabric density was increased. But it was confirmed by SEM that the surface of the fiber was damaged by washings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.12 s.148
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• pp.1535-1545
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• 2005

The study aimed firstly, to develop the women's bodysuit sleeve block construction method adopting the appropriate pattern reduction rates according to the fabric stretch property. Secondly, the details applied to the bodysuit sleeve block drafting (Dr the educational and industrial usage were proposed. For these, several distinguishing bodysuit sleeve pattern making methods(i.e. Joseph-Armstrong: T1, Shoben & Ward: T2, Esmod: T3 and Mixed Joseph-Armstrong: T4) were analyzed and divided into two categories that adopt 1) the equally (i.e., T1) and 2) the differently(i.e., T2, T3 & T4) distributed front and back armhole length measurements. Women's sleeve samples were made for the research using the same stretch fabric($50\%\;and\; 70\%$ in wale and course each) to the previous research. A group comprising 5 relevant experts evaluated the fit and comfort features of the samples. Experiments analyzed the appearance of sleeve samples focused on total 13 evaluation parts(including the front/side/back fit tolerance, sleeve centre line, sleeve length, appropriateness of the sleeve appearance balanced with the bodysuit and etc.): and performed the comfort test evaluating three kinds(vertical-front/vertical-side/ horizontal) of arm movements. The most appropriate bodysuit sleeve to fulfil the original aims of the study was suggested. The findings and suggestions throughout the study were: 1) the measurements and required reduction rates for the bodysuit sleeve block developed: outer sleeve length (with 1.0 RR), crown height(with 0.7 RR), front and back armhole lengths measured on the bodysuit blocks ($0\%$ ease amount), elbow width(0.9/0.95 RR), wrist girth measurements(from $12\%\;to\;18\%$ tolerances can be given to): and 2) the differently distributed front and back armhole length measurements resulted in the better fit and comfort through the research.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.37 no.7
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• pp.17-27
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• 1999

According to the design method for constructing the Korean Men's Jo-go-ri(the traditional Korean jacket)collar, there are differences in form after its completion. In the construction design of the midsection of the gusset as in that of the basic pattern Jo-go-ri, not only was the positioning of the two sides of the collar not smooth, but also, when the collar strip(Dongjung) was attached, there would be an imbalance on one side or the other so that it was difficult to achieve symmetry. Therefore in this project, by applying the pattern design of the gusset midsection to that of the collar midsection, not only did attaching the collar(Kit) and the collar strip create a visual effect by equalizing the lengths of the two sides, but the construction was also easy. This method of construction introduces the three-dimensional aspect of the human form in its conic, spherical and cylindrical aspects, so that, through schematizing the scientific character of Korea's clothing, its appropriateness is verified. As a matter of fact, since there is no standardization of pattern whether for educational use or for mass-produced clothing, so that even the patterns used in computer-assisted design are executed according to the designer's personal skill, the reality is that after completion of construction the quality has not been uniform. For this schematization, inverse calculation of measurements pertaining to the calculation formula and of teaching materials has been referenced. In particular, the partial regulation of the calculation formula pertaining to the basic pattern construction, the method of making the collar midsection, and the construction method of the extreme and mean ratio adjustment, can be adjusted for all measurements, thereby providing the establishment of a design criterion and the possibility of the standardization of construction methods. The production method for the basic pattern design is as follows: 1) The conic angle for the Jo-go-ri's girth, length end neck width is fixed at 70(72) degree. 2) The radius of the cone is sleeve length. 3) The bust girth calculation formula is B/4 + 2.5 cm. 4) The armhole formula is B/4 + 2.5cm. 5) The neck width formula is B/10. 6) The ratio of the collar junction{width of collar(Kit) + width of collar strip(Dongjung) to the gusset length is 5:8. 7) The length of the side seam is a length intersecting the armhole line and the conic radius of sleeve length, that is an arc that exceeds the length of the Jo-go-ri's midsection.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.8
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• pp.29-39
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• 2002

It was increased leisure hours by automation and computerization of industry. Many people spend on hours in enjoying leisure sports, and then. nowadays, Many women tend to prefer casual wear to formal suits. The purpose of this research was to design of outdoor-wear that improve the functional and aesthetic effects for clothing comfort. Total 4 design prototype consisting of jumper and slacks were developed for this research. Outdoor-wear design forced on armhole type of jumper and ease of the back crotch length of slacks to improve the functional and aesthetic effects. And Outdoor-wear design focused on color harmony to aesthetic effects. Ease amount and materials of jumper and slacks were controlled. Design A: Jumper was designed as dropped shoulder with set-in steeve and band collar, A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of outside seam line of slacks Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 7% of total crotch length: Design B 4DM cut pattern were applied to the jumper and slacks pattern. A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of inside seam line of thigh. Color of jumper and slacks were grey and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design C : Jumper was designed as the set in sleeve and hood. and A break- away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the ares of the armhole and elbow. Color of jumper and slacks were ivory and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design D : Jumper was designed as raglan sleeve. Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Total six females, ages 20-45, served as subjects for this research. Subjects have standard body type, generally, wearing 66 size of ready-to-wear clothing. The performance of the newly designed outdoor-wear was evaluated for their effectiveness in several aspects such as conditions of skin temperature, sensory evaluation of comfort during body movements, appearance and color harmony and aesthetic collar design. Design 3 was appeared to be the most positive in aesthetic evaluation and functional effects of design 2 of 4DM cut pattern was appeared to be beter than other designs.