• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.43-56
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• 1994

The Purpose of this study was to utilize of CAD System in pattern making process for women's apparel. The automation by the use of CAD System provides the higher accuracy and efficiency in pattern making process. AccuMark 300 System was used. for .this study. The results from this study were as follows . 1. New size spec chart and grading pitch chart were developed based on the data analysis and fitting tests for female college students. 2. New jacket block was developed based on the torso length sloper 3. Automatic grading of jacket block have been developed by creation and modification of grading rules of block pattern. 4. Pattern Design Systyem(P/D/S) were enabled to be constructed directly form a block pattern by modifications to existing styled pattern. 5. Original master pattern was generated by P/D/S menu option. 6. Production pattem added seam allowance, notchs was generated by P/D/S menu option. 7 Interative maker making process have enabled to save a wide range of time and space. 8. Measurement of garment by P/D/S measuring tools is to utilize in garment costing, quality control.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.391-406
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• 1993

The purpose of this study was to utilize of apparel CAD System by the classification of the basic pattern block in pattern making process. Gerber AM-300 CAD System was used for this study. The results form this study were as follows; 1. New shirts block were developed. 2. The sensory test was applied to evaluate the new shirts block for women by comparing it with Japanese Bunka shirts blouse pattern making method. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 20 items on the questionnaire, the 19 items showed significant difference(${\alpha}{\leq}0.01$)between the two, with the new shirts block having higher scores. 3. A basic pattern block was selected by the design sketch. 4. P/D/S were enabled to be constructed directly from a block pattern. The drawing, deletion. duplication, and movement of all points and lines in the pattern might be made freely, and the split, pivot, and movement of the pattern, and the attachment of two patterns were possible. 5. Automatic grading of finished pattern have been developed by creation and modification of grading rules of block pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.26-36
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• 2009

The aim of this study is to be the fundamental study for virtual clothing system of the future through a comparative analysis of the difference between a virtual frill skirt and a real frill skirt using a 3-dimensional Apparel cad system. Satin was selected as a comparative fabric of the real skirt and virtual skirt. And compared skirts are frilled 1.5widths, 2widths, and 2.5widths. In case of 1.5widths frilled, the real skirts and virtual skirts showed no significant difference except in shirring frill expression. However, in case of 2widths frilled, and 2.5widths frilled skirts, significant differences in the extent of frill flattening, the sectional diagram of the bottom hem, and the skirt shape. The virtual skirt showed that as its multiple proportion of frill increased, the sidelines of the skirt drooped and excessively extended, and collision detection that the belt was twisted and torn apart arose. Furthermore, not only the frill but also the shape of the skirt was transformed, and the bottom hems were widened back and forth, and the sectional diagram of the bottom hems were transformed into rounded shapes.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 1993.06b
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• pp.739-743
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• 1993

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.11
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• pp.1-9
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• 2002

Nowadays, the use of apparel CAD system is important to the mass production of ready to wear Especially, computer-based grading is the most important process to improve the fitness of clothes and to reduce the time needed to make patterns of several sizes. The purpose of this study was to suggest a standard sizing system for junior-high school girls' lower clothes and to suggest a grading method according to the sizing systems. The subjects were 402 junior-high school girls of 13 to 15 year's-old. The size intervals of waist girth and hip girth were 3㎝ and 4㎝ respectively. The sizing system, which had frequencies more than 4.5%, was classified 8 cases. For regular grading, two types of group were classified into 58-82/61-86/64-90/67-94 and 61-82/64-86/67-90/70-94. Among them, 61-86 and 64-86 size were adopted the basic size for the development of grading. According to the sizing system, hand-made patterns were manufactured. By measure of the each part of the slacks, new grading rule patterns were developed by each size. A new grading rule was different from the Moonwha grading rule. This result will contribute to clothing fitness of consumer and the amount of production.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.103-114
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• 2011

During a wearer's movement, the apparel fabric layers collide each other in a highly complicated manner. The collision involves cloth-cloth, and cloth-body collision. The diversity of the textile fabrics, including silk, wool, cotton, and other synthetic fibers, together with the complex details of the apparel construction, makes the collision and other calculation procedure involved in the 3-dimensional clothing software system much more complicated. Therefore, there is a need to measure the behavior of the fabrics during the fabric collision cycles. In this study, as a first step, static measurements pertinent to the factors governing the appearance of the apparel fabrics were implemented. The drape profile, stiffness(Sd and Sf), tensile properties, thickness, and the air permeability were measured. The correlation between the parameters were calculated and reviewed. It is found that there is a high correlation of 0.97 between the actual fabric drape parameters and the 3D virtual fabric drape parameters. The measured drape coefficients of the fabrics show relatively good correlation with the measured fabric stiffness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.7
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• pp.1111-1125
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• 2010

Study is a basic analysis of a future virtual clothing system based on a comparative analysis of all the shirring, using a 3-dimensional apparel cad system. Frilled skirts shirred at the lower hemline were the subject of this study for a comparison of expression and shape of shirring. It compared the silhouette and details expressed in virtual and real skirts made of woolen fabrics and polyester satin, with different widths (1.5, 2 and 2.5 widths). It was found that the virtual skirt could not express shirring as exquisitely as the real skirt due to fabric thickness and other fabric characteristics. In addition, the increase in widths caused the frill shape to deform badly. In the case of a virtual skirt made of polyester satin, the increased multiplication factor let the frill spread out sharply (unlike the real skirt). Simulated skirts of polyester satin and woolen spread out to the sides with the sidelines of their frills hanging down markedly (unlike the real cloths) when the frills changed from 1.5 widths to 2 widths. When it came to the virtual skirt, side-line from the hip down all the way short of frill contorted with the wrinkle multiplication factor of 2 and 2.5 widths. This phenomenon was more notable in polyester satin skirts than in woolen skirts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.5
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• pp.711-724
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• 2019

The automatic drafting of clothing patterns can be realized through an Apparel Cad System when the clothing pattern has a pattern expression in human dimensions. However, it is difficult to apply automatic systems because it is difficult to express the ready-to-wear of various complex designs with one system. This study develops ready-to-wear patterns in an automatic drafting style and also develops nude patterns with human dimension-based drafting styles that can be applied to enable the setting of margins by design. For this purpose, radial body length measurement items and measurement methods were newly defined for female standard dummy and nude pattern systems. The institutional program was developed through the principle of a nude pattern system which is different from the pattern system of the existing system. The nude pattern developed in this study represents a basis and framework for the gradual transformation of the production pattern into the automatic system of the future and as a pattern having an institutional formula based on human dimensions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.647-656
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• 2003

Mass customization utilizes the new computer technologies, supply chain management, product information management, and some level of customization of the product for the individual customer. This study aimed at grasping the actual conditions of mass customization of domestic men's suit industry and the use of MTM CAD program. The MTM apparel production programs that are used by five leading men's suit manufacturers in Korea were compared. The results of the study showed that most of the manufacturers produced mass customized men's suits to supply extraordinarily large or small size suit based on the individual order. The information listed on an order sheet used at shops was not necessarily corresponding to the information in the MTM CAD program that is use for production of suit ordered from the shop. The pattern data base on the MTM CAD program are constructed based on the sizing system of individual manufacturer. The most manufacturers translated the customer's body dimensions into difference between the standard pattern and the customer's needed adjustment.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.3 s.217
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• pp.91-102
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• 2006

The following research compares the two apparel systems that are used in Korean colleges, Gerber and PAD, by analyzing the advantages and disadvantages of their Dart-related functions in the pattern construction process. The results are as follows. 1. Regarding transformation methods, the Gerber system was able to use pivot method, while the PAD system was able to use both pivot method and slash methods. in other issues, the PAD system was not able to synthesize more than two Darts, and only showed differences for other functions. On the other hand, the diamond-shape Dart and diagonal Dart could be produced only in the PAD system, while curvy shaped Dart could not be produced in either system. 2. The change in side lines due to the change of Dart width only occurred in the PAD system, while the change in Dart length only occurred in the Gerber system; both systems need improvement. 3. As for the pattern outer line connection capability, which is a Dart automatic transformation function, both systems showed unnatural shapes which need to be corrected. 4. We first constructed a Dart shape composition chart according to the number of Darts. Based on this, we examined whether they have appropriate shapes. Among single-Darts, the Gerber system had an inappropriate, outer-line shape for Underarm Dart and Center Front Dart, and among two-Darts, it was inappropriate for Side and Waist Dart.