• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.3 s.47
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• pp.393-397
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• 2004

L-Carnitine $({\beta}-hydroxy-{\gamma}-trimethyl-ammoniumbutyric{\;}acid)$ is a small water-soluble molecule important in mammalian fat metabolism. It is essential for the normal oxidation of fatty acids by the mitochondria, and is involved in the trans-esterification and excretion of acyl-CoA esters. In this paper, to investigate the relationship between aging and L-carnitine, we investigated the effects of in vitro matrix-metalloproteinase (MMP) inhibition and activity and expression of UYA-induced MMPs in human skin fibroblasts. Also, we studied to develop as anti-aging cosmetics with L-carnitine. Fluorometric assays of the proteolytic activities of MMP-1 (collagenase) were performed using fluorescent collagen substrates. ELISA (enzyme linked immune sorbent assay), gelatin-substrate zymography, RT-PCR ELISA techniques were used for the effects of L-carnitine on MMP expression, activity, and MMP mRNA expression in UVA irradiated fibroblast $(5\;J/cm^2)$, respectively. In addition, we performed clinical study with L-carnitine cream. L-carnitine inhibited the activities of MMP-1 in a dose-dependent manner and the $IC_{50}$ values calculated from semi-log plots were 2.45 mM, and L-carnitine showed strong inhibition on MMP-2 (gelatinase) activity in UVA irradiated fibroblast by zymography. Also, UVA induced MMP-1, 2 expression was reduced $43\%,\;53\%$ by treated with L-carnitine at 1.25 mM, and MMP-1 mRNA expression was reduced dose-dependent manner. Therefore L-carnitine was able to significantly inhibit the MMP activity, and regulate MMP expression in protein and mRNA level. The results of clinical study showed that $1.0\%$ L-carnitine treated group reduced wrinkle significantly compared with placebo treated group (P<0.05). All these results suggest that L-carnitine may be useful as new anti-aging cosmetics for protection against UVA induced Mm expression and activity.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.107-117
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to provide basic data for the development of UV protection products using natural materials. The research method is investigation and analyzation of the current status of the domestic and foreign industries, natural material research trends, and patent status of skin care-related sunscreen. As the result of the study, the U.S. market for sunscreen is the largest one, accounting for about 21% of the world, and the Chinese market is rapidly growing. The top four major types of functional cosmetics in Korea are complex functional products, followed by wrinkle improvement, sunscreen and whitening, and both the global and domestic markets continue to grow continuously. Over the past decade, research trends in natural sunscreen materials have shown that Scutellaria baicalensis, Humulus lupulus L., licorice, Finger root, Green tea, lespedeza cuneata extracts are effective, and in addition, they are also effective in photo-aging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, whitening, and wrinkle improvement. The patent registration status is on the rise and the ingredients were secured from plants and seaweeds. As the conclusion of this research, It is expected that natural UV protection material will be able to be used as multi-functional cosmetics material by developing safe and proven natural materials in line with future global trends.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.681-687
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• 2018

Recently, several researchers have been developing cosmetics from natural ingredients for skin whitening and anti-aging products. The red sea cucumber (RSC), Apostichopus japonicas, is a species of sea cucumber in the family stichopodiae, which is widely distributed in China, Japan, and Korea. To use Red Sea Cucumber as a cosmetic ingredient, its inhibitory effects on melanogenesis and the anti-aging effects of RSC extracts were investigated. First, a tyrosinase activity assay was performed, which showed that RSC inhibited tyrosinase activity at a concentration of $200{\mu}g/ml$. An MTT assay was carried out to evaluate cell toxicity, and the results showed that RSC extract has no cytotoxicity in HaCaT cells. Furthermore, the mRNA expression levels of tyrosinase, tyrosinase related protein 1 (TRP-1), tyrosinase related protein 2 (TRP-2), microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), and matrix metalloproteinase (MMPs) genes treated with RSC extract in B16F10 and HaCaT cells decreased. Moreover, a wound-healing assay was performed to identify the cell regeneration effect of RSC extracts. Also, a skin turnover effect was confirmed by creating a three-dimensional cell culture with HaCaT and human fibroblasts. Altogether, the results suggested that Red Sea Cucumber may possess a high ability to induce whitening and anti-wrinkle effects as a cosmeceutical ingredient.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.183-193
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• 2016

This study attempted to investigate the possibility of the use of Morinda citrifolia (MC) as a cosmetic ingredient from its physiological activities such as antioxidant activity, cytotoxicity and anti-aging effect. MC is a tropical plant that has been used as traditional polynesian foods and medicines for over two thousand years. It has been reported that this shrub can improve antimicrobial, anti-cancer and anti-inflammatory effects and strengthen an immune system. The in vitro antioxidant activity of MC was performed to see the DPPH scavenging activity by measuring total polyphenol content and total flavonoid content. As a result, a lack of any cytotoxicity was confirmed in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) cell. When MC extract at a concentration of over $50{\sim}100{\mu}g/mL$ was added, MMP-1 expression considerably diminished. In an in vivo test, in addition, cream containing MC extract was prepared and applied to a total of 22 women in their 30 ~ 50s in ages in the morning and in the evening for four weeks. Changes in keratin, melanin index, pore, skin color and wrinkles under the naked eyes were then comparatively measured. Keratin levels slightly increased in the control group but decreased in the experimental group. In addition, wrinkles diminished in the experimental group. This study found that MC extract controls many MMP-1 related mechanisms with great potential for use as a natural ingredient of anti-aging cosmetics.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.1285-1297
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• 2020

In this study, we report the results of a study on the clinical evaluation of wrinkle improvement by developing a method for liposome of high-purity Centella asiatica extract used in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, and a cream using the same. In order to make Centellasome-10EX stabilizing centella asiatica extract in liposome lamella vesicle, it could be completed using 5% hydrogenated lecithin and 2% sucrose distearate. The appearance of Centellasome-10EX was a creamy form of low viscosity, the color was pale yellow, and the odor had the inherent odor of the raw material. The pH was about 6.12, the specific gravity was 1.09, and the acid value was about 0.35. The content of the main constituents of centella asiatica extract contained in the liposome vesicle contains 10,800 ppm of asiatic acid, 10,900 ppm of asiaticoside, 6,000 ppm of madecasic acid, and 1,600 ppm of madecassoside, and long-term storage. There was no discoloration even at the time, and it was found that the main component remained stable thermodynamically. To mechanistically analyze the structure of the liposome vesicle of Centellasome-10EX, as a result of observation with a transmission electron microscope (Cryo-TEM), the multilayer vesicles are formed and filled with moisture, and there are 10 to 60 multilayers around it. It was confirmed that the liposome lamella vesicle was formed. As a clinical trial (in-vivo) test, the moisturizing effect of centellasome cream after application for 5 weeks was 28.3%, which was significantly increased compared to placebo. The skin elasticity effect was 13.6%, which significantly increased the moisturizing power than the placebo. The effect of improving fine wrinkles around the eyes was improved by 23.52% compared to placebo cream. Through the results of this study, it was possible to study the formulation and manufacturing method for encapsulation and stabilization of the developed Centellasome-10EX in the liposome vesicle. It is expected that the results obtained through clinical research on the wrinkle improvement effect of the cream using this can be widely used to study skin science in the cosmetic industry and to develop high-quality cosmetics with high efficacy.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.508-519
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• 2024

In this study, in order to evaluate the possibility of using Jubak as a functional cosmetic material, evaluation of antioxidant activity according to fractions and anti-wrinkle efficacy in CCD-986sk cells, a human fibroblast, were conducted. As a result of confirming the antioxidant activity by measuring ABTS⁺ radical scavenging ability, Jubak's Ethyl Acetate fractions was found to be 75.5% at a concentration of 1,000 ㎍/ml, showing the highest antioxidant activity among the extraction solvents. The wrinkle improvement effect was confirmed by measuring the inhibitory activity of elastase and collagenase, and in both test results, Jubak's Ethyl Acetate fractions showed the highest efficacy at a concentration of 1,000 ㎍/ml. As a result of measuring the synthesis rate of pro-collagen type I in CCD-986sk cells induced by UVB, Jubak showed the highest efficacy in the order of Ethyl Acetate, Water, Acetonitrile, and Hexan fractions at the same concentration of 20 ㎍/ml. As a result of measuring the inhibition rate of MMP-1, a collagen degrading enzyme, all four solvent fractions showed an efficacy of more than 70% at 20 ㎍/ml. As a result of measuring the mRNA expression levels of pro-collagen type I, MMP-1, and MMP-3 in a real-time PCR experiment, the protein expression level of pro-collagen type I increased when treated with Jubak fractions compared to the UVB group alone. The mRNA expression levels of MMP-1 and MMP-3 were confirmed to be decreased, and Ethyl Acetate fractions was the most effective in improving wrinkles after the control group (EGCG). As a result, it was confirmed that the Ethyl Acetate fractions among Jubak's solvent fractions has an anti-wrinkle effect against photoaging caused by UVB stimulation, and is expected to be used as a natural material for cosmetics.

• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• v.28 no.8
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• pp.1391-1400
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• 2018

Angelica tenuissima root has historically been used as a traditional medicine in Korea. Previous studies have identified the anti-melanogenic effects of the extract of A. tenuissima root fermented by Aspergillus oryzae (FAT). This study investigated the protective effects of FAT against ultraviolet light B exposure (UVB; $30mJ/cm^2$) in HaCaT (human keratinocyte) or Hs68 (human foreskin fibroblast) skin cells. FAT treatment was able to stimulate wound healing rate at the basal condition. FAT also favored the maintenance and/or improvement of extracellular matrix impairment caused by UVB irradiation through: 1) upregulation of procollagen Type-1 synthesis and secretion; 2) suppression of MMP-1 and elastase expression. FAT was able to play a role in the attenuation of inflammatory responses caused by UVB irradiation via upregulation of photo-protective hemeoxygease-1 and suppression of proinflammatory cyclooxygenase-2 expression. After further verification of the anti-photoaging potential of FAT, it could be utilized as an effective ingredient in anti-aging and anti-wrinkle cosmetics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.41 no.9
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• pp.1211-1219
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• 2012

In this study, extracts from Caragana sinica flowers and leaves were tested for antioxidant and angiotensin converting enzyme inhibitory activities, along with xanthine oxidase, tyrosinase, elastase, and astringent effects. Total phenolic compounds of acetone extracts from Caragana sinica flowers and leaves were the highest at 3.42 and 2.98 mg/g, respectively, when various extraction solvents were used. Optimal conditions for extraction of phenolic compounds from Caragana sinica leaves and flowers were 70% ethanol for 18 hr. DPPH scavenging activities were the highest in 70% ethanol extracts of Caragana sinica. ABTS radical cation decolorization values of 70% ethanol extracts were higher than those 60% ethanol extracts at 74%. Antioxidant protection factor was 1.2 PF in 70% ethanol extracts from Caragana sinica flowers and leaves. TBARS was lower than that of control (0.54 ${\mu}M$) in all sections. Angiotensin converting enzyme inhibitory activity of Caragana sinica flower extract was 80~90% at a phenolic concentration of 0.2~1.0 mg/mL, whereas xanthin oxidase inhibitory activity of Caragana sinica leaf extract was higher than that of flower extract. Tyrosinase inhibitory activity, which is related to skin-whitening, was above 20%, whereas elastase inhibitory activity related to anti-wrinkle effect was above 50% at a phenolic concentration of 0.8 mg/mL. Astringent effects of Caragana sinica flower and leaf extracts were higher than tannic acid as a control at an equivalent concentration. This result suggests that extracts from Caragana sinica flowers and leaves are suitable as functional foods having anti-hypertension, anti-gout, and medicinal cosmetic activities, including whitening and anti-wrinkle effects.

• Journal of Korean Society of Forest Science
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• v.99 no.6
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• pp.836-842
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• 2010

Hovenia dulcis var. koreana Nakai has been reported to liver function improvement effect as functional materials for food and medicine. On these facts, biological activity and safety test were conducted to evaluate biological activities of the fruit petiole and root extracts of H. dulcis as a potential cosmeceutical ingredient. Cosmeceutica activities of different extracts were examined by l.l-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical generation, the ABTS+ cation decolorization, tyrosinase activity, collagenase activity and elastase activity compared with the properties of the commercial antioxidant butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) and L-ascorbic acid (AA). The antioxidant activities HDFW, HDFE, HDRW and HDRE were 83.6%, 39.6%, 85.9% and 74.5% in DPPH assay, 99.5%, 13.7%, 96.4% and 88.6% in ABTS assay. Tyrosinase inhibitiory activities HDFW were 56.0% at 1,000 ppm. Measured the inhibition effect of the H. dulcis about collagenase and elastase where break the peptide bonds in collagen and enzyme from the class of proteases where exists in the dermis. The H. dulcis was inhibition the two kind enzymesm, collagenase activities being on a high scale inhibition, was same concentration. Uses the anti oxidation effect and a anti-wrinkle effect of this resultant H. dulcis and with the functional cosmetics use is thought with the fact that will be possible.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.39-46
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• 2022

In this study, we tried to find out the value of using Vietnamese Ternstroemia kwangtungensis Merr. (TK) extracts as a functional material. As a result of measuring the level of Nrf2 expression of TK, 50% ethanol extract TK leaf showed the highest activity at a concentration of 200 ㎍/mL. In order to confirm the stability of the extract over time at room temperature, UPLC was performed, and stability was maintained because the patterns of the UV spectrum pattern were the same. In order to confirm the antioxidant efficacy of TK, the activity increased as the concentration increased as a result of measuring electron donating and ABTS⁺ radical scavenging ability. At 1,000 ㎍/mL, they showed effects of 94.6% and 90.8%, respectively. As a result of measuring the tyrosinase inhibitory activity showed an inhibitory ability of 24.4% at a concentration of 1,000 ㎍/mL. In addition, as a result of examining the elastase inhibitory activity of the extract was increased in a concentration-dependent manner, and it was confirmed that the inhibitory activity was 42.7% at 1,000 ㎍/mL. From these results, it was confirmed that the TK extract was valuable as a natural material for cosmetics.