• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제7권2호
• /
• pp.101-110
• /
• 2005

Vivienne Westwood could be placed in a unique position in the contemporary fashion design. She has never belonged in a core group of mainstream fashion designer but not been always in an outsider position. She got from mainstream fashion designer circles enormous appreciation, even established fashion industry was influenced by her fashion design. She began her fashion design with rebellious T-shirts like 'destroy' T-shirt, chicken-bone T-shirt, and nipple-zipper T-shirt, all of which revealed her disgust against establishment. All these T-shirts testify her total negation tendency in her youth. However, she did not continue to keep such a kind of total negation attitude against establishment In 1980s she changed her political attitude towards establishment, and this change also found a reflection in her fashion design. In her pirate-collection the dark image of her fashion in the 1970s changed into a totally different bright image with full of gold colour. Although this collection had radiated brightness, it contained still outsider character from mainstream fashion design. The following fashion design in 1980s and 1990s evolved further on the line of Pirate-collection, but they continued to contain certain outsider characteristics. Vivienne Westwood kept some kind of anti-establishment attitude, and this attitude more or little came to the surface of her design. She was always political and critical to the establishment. In 2005, in her 64, she designed a liberty T-shirt, which showed her political attitude and her engagement in social issues. Also it showed the change from the early total negation to the constructive critical affirmation. In this paper the relation between the fashion design of Vivienne Westwood and her political attitude and the influence of her political attitude to her fashion design is analyzed.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제11권5호
• /
• pp.110-123
• /
• 2007

This study aims at analyzing the characteristics and the mode of deconstructionism expressed in fashion design centering on review of literatures and precedent researches. Through the review of previous studies and various articles, three major features with regard to deconstructionism were found: indeterminacy of meaning, decentralization, and inter -textuality. In fashion, the feature of indeterminacy of meaning expressed by non formula way such as unfinished, layering, obi or straight line cutting and it was divided into unstructured and unorganized factors. The feature of decentralization expressed by disorganization of sex, race, culture and humanism such as trans-gender, third world costume, sub-culture, posthumanism. Last, the feature of inter-textuality expressed by employing the fashion texts more than two simultaneously such as mixture of unmatched or unusual various clothing items, fabrics, patterns and styles. Non formality features in fahsion which divided into unstructured and unconstructed factors. The decentering of meaning means that disorganized the existing concepts of sex, race, culture and humanism features in fashion which divided into cross-gender, subculture, and post-humanism. Lastly, the feature of inter-textuality means that employed the fashion text more than two which is classified into factors of mixing mode and mixed styles. Unstructured factors were expressed by destroying the design principles such as balance, harmony and unit in fashion. Unconstructed factors were expressed by ignoring the basic costume structures and components in fashion. Cross-gender was expressed by manish and duality style in fashion and 3rd world costume was expressed by folk costume style. Anti fashion was expressed by anti aesthetics in fashion such as kitch, punk, and hippie styles. Post-human was expressed by futurism and the 4th Sex style in fashion. Mixing mode were expressed by mixture of item, and unmatched materials and pattern in fashion. Mixture of style were expressed by mixture of pastiche expression of various styles.

• 복식
• /
• 제57권7호
• /
• pp.70-83
• /
• 2007

Contemporary fashion design has been made a new attempt to extend restricted expressions through fusion with other genres in art. The recognition of fashion has recently been changed not only product but as a piece of work in specific value, concept and meaning created by fashion designer. It is observed that the contemporary fashion design has a notion to persue formative intentions and manners of Conceptual Art in Post-modern era. This study is to define this region of fashion design represented in cultural phenomena as 'Conceptual Fashion', also analyze the formative feature of this from a point of view in Conceptual art. The results which are analyzed according to outward techniques and forms, meanings and elements immanent in aesthetic contemplation of conceptual fashion lead to four distinctive things in such as anti-form, intervention and appropriation, metaphor and detour, process and series. The intrinsic values in conceptual fashion through aesthetic contemplation are indicated the four significant values in the following: the pluralistic interpretation, the parody and amusement, the pursuit of essence and truth and the participation and interaction. Conceptual fashion design is appeared complex not doing separate through classified formative features previously. And It has been evolved as a indeterminate concept which is able to variable elucidation by a non-player, as a instrument for communication on fashion culture which is aggrandized. The purpose of this study is to present of theoretical foundation about Conceptual fashion design and also to make proper understanding about interrelationship between contemporary fashion and art.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제28권1호
• /
• pp.54-65
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study was to identify the impact of fashion life styles of TV-home shoppers on their fashion goods purchasings. This study analyzed TV home shoppers grouped into clusters based on their fashion life styles and identified their product-related evaluative criteria and purchasing intention according to clusters. This study also analyzed whether there are differences in clusters according to their socio-economic status. Utilizing the convenient sampling method, the sample of the study is composed of women aged over 20 living in the Seoul metropolitan area. Of 380 distributed, 196 useful questionnaires were returned. The data were analyzed using factor analysis, cluster analysis, $\chi$$^2$analysis, and One-way ANOVA. The results are as follows: Regarding fashion life styles, 5 factors, 1) fashion leadership, 2) shopping-involvement, 3) fashion image, 4) economics and 5) anti-fashion attitude were obtained. Based on the factor scores, 4 clusters, 1) aesthetic-orientation, 2) economics and fashion innovation-orientation, 3) conspicuous consumption-orientation and 4) anti-fashion attitude, were identified. Regarding the product-related evaluative criteria, there were significant differences in price, fashionability, design, size, brand reliability, refund policy, and appearances when worn according to clusters. There were also significant differences in purchasing intention when purchasing low price products and fashion items such as under wears, night and home wears, suits, leather and fur clothes, purse and bags, and shoes. Regarding the socio-econmic status, age, marital status, and occupation were significantly different according to clusters.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제1권3호
• /
• pp.239-245
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study is to suggest the direction of the future fashion by grasping the cyber fashion, which is discussed outstandingly in the recent fashion world, into internal expression and external features. The result of this study is as follows: Cyber fashion means the application of the electronic image, dynamic phenonmenon of machine, and the effects of light to fashion, and it has some external features of geometrical pattern, dynamic structure, and high-tech material and color: Aside from this noticeable characteristics, cyber fashion has some internal features of the direction toward future, the anti-culture, and the surreal. In this cyber fashion, first, computer will be introduced and used as the means to realize a dream of human being. Second, it will be designed with the ideal feature of future society. Third, it will be possible to develope material and design to solve ecological issue of human beings. Fourth, the fashion to give the peace and stability to human being will be popular.

• 복식
• /
• 제57권6호
• /
• pp.122-134
• /
• 2007

Fine art and fashion have influences on each other since both of them are the part of a culture. The similar patterns of fine art and fashion can be found either in the same period or in the different time. To find out this fact in the forms or content, this study researched into the fine art and fashion of 1960s and into recent year's fashion to see the revivals. In 1960s, fine art and fashion laid emphasis on the materiality of material itself, therefore both fine art and fashion have the tendency of formlessness and disorder in form. It ran be said that the socio-cultural background of this phenomenon in 1960s was mainly caused by the young generation called Hippies. They became a large influential social group that has a huge impact on overall culture in 1960s. As a result, this study firstly found that the fine art and fashion had common formative features and content in 1960s. Secondly, fashion since 1990 repeats the similar features in form like the Post-minimal tendency in fine art in 1960s. The similar features can be described as: artworks have the tendency of the formlessness and disorder in appearances; various materials were newly used to form a work, which had never been used in traditional artworks; new methods such as hanging, layering and knotting were applied to show the maximum expression of the materiality. However, unlike the fashion of 1960s, the Post-minimal tendency in fashion since 1990s doesn't symbolized freedom or peace, or opposition to the war anymore. Instead, only the formative elements were revived and reproduced and the formless tendency became one of the recent fashion trends.

• 복식
• /
• 제50권3호
• /
• pp.133-144
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this study is to examine a distinctive feature and meaning of Reggae fashion and to establish a form of design on the basis of the Reggae style appeared in the 1990s. For the study, we review a formative background and stream of the Reggae fashion. And then, characteristics of the Reggae fashion is clarified through analyzing street fashion and High-fashion. The result of the analysis demonstrates that the Reggae fashion as a general term of the fashion style is connected to the Reggae musci emerged from Such socio-cultural changes as the tendency of the anti-fashion , the influence of the Afro-fashion , and the popularity of the Reggae music. The reggae fashion has been altered in terms of its style with the lapse of time-Rastafaran style, Raggnuffins and Bhangra style, Hip-hop Reggae style. The Reggae fashion emerged in the 1990s falls into three styles ; Afro-Reggae style, Feminine Reggae style, and Sporty Reggae style. The above mentioned results demonstrate that the design of Reggae fashion targets fro a youth in one's early 20s following a tendency in the 1990s and the 2000s. The design concept represents Romantic Reggae.

• 한국생활과학회지
• /
• 제18권4호
• /
• pp.903-912
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study was to analyze potential effects of Koreans' ultraviolet risk awareness and appearance management on their UV protective behaviors in daily life and outdoor activities, and was to investigate in their awareness of UV-protective clothing and their purchase attitudes toward anti-UV protective clothing. To meet the above goals, we have surveyed a total of 262 participants(male and female) residing in Chungcheong province. Findings were as following: As a part of ultraviolet-protective behaviors, it was found that the respondents often relied on applying sun-block cream or shady place before exposition to sunlight. Particularly, it was notable that 30's or older group was more proactive in UV protective behaviors than younger group below 30 years old. There were significant correlations among the respondents' UV protective behaviors, their awareness of anti-UV clothing and their purchase attitudes to anti-UV clothing. Also, there were also significant correlations among their UV-protective means for outdoor activities. That is, more favorable awareness about anti-UV clothing they have is associated with their more active attitudes to purchasing anti-UV clothing and taking anti-sunlight behaviors. It was found that the number of respondents who used cosmetics for outdoor activities was more than that of respondents who used clothing to protect their body from ultraviolet ray. Hence, it will be necessary for follow-up studies to focus on the development and promotion of anti-UV clothing.

• 복식
• /
• 제51권2호
• /
• pp.169-180
• /
• 2001

This paper is intended to explore femininity, the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and tole ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part I of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the fashion system in the Victorian period will be reviewed. following are the conclusion : First, in the Victorian period, the value of femininity is put on the body of female by the discrimination of sex divided in two. Consequently, the characteristics of femininity mainly include dependence, passiveness, emotion, beauty, maternity, innocence, and purity. To emphasize the function of reproduction as primary duty and nature of female, the ideal beauty of body is represented in the form of Venus Naturalis, which symbolizes the fertility. And the external form of this body is expressed in slum waist line, ample busom and hip in fashion. Second, the features of this fashion are classified into three categories by their internal value : images of subordinate female, sensual female and maternal female 1) The image of subordinate female is expressed by concealment of legs, tightening the upper part of the body in corset and restriction on action by the crinoline 2) The image of sensual female is revealed in brazing colors and decoration, excessive exposure of the upper part of the body and hip by means of bustle. 3) The image of maternity is expressed in swollen skirt of crinoline, oval bustle silhouette metaphoring the extended womb resulted from pregnancy.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제22권2호
• /
• pp.139-148
• /
• 2020

This study classifies black fashion-mania by each type based on their motivation for wearing black fashion as well as verifies how they express their style. To achieve the objectives of this study, the research questions are as follows. First, the images of black fashion-manias are classified. Second, each type of black fashion enthusiasts' motivations for wearing black fashion are verified. Last, black fashion-mania style are analyzed according to image types. In order to answer the research questions, a literature review and in-depth interviews (total 30 respondents (male 15, female 15) were executed. As a result, black fashion-manias use black fashion for self protection, their self-images such as charismatic professional image, modern sophisticated image, body-conscious sexy image, avant garde image which is an anti-fashion norm and unique image. The strong reason why black fashion-manias insist on black fashion is to 'look cooler'. The expressions could be articulated from sophisticated styling techniques that appear to be undecorated rather than an overt decorated styling. It is helpful information to plan black fashion products and to establish a design direction that requires an understanding of why black fashion is pursued, while promoting an understanding of groups of black fashion-mania.