• Title/Summary/Keyword: anti fashion

Search Result 259, Processing Time 0.023 seconds

A Study on Gender Images Expressed in Military Fashion - Basis on a Women's wear in the 1990's - (밀리터리 패션에 나타난 성적 이미지 연구 - 1990년대 여성복을 중심으로 -)

  • 채금석;이화정
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.52 no.1
    • /
    • pp.103-115
    • /
    • 2002
  • The purpose of this study is understanding modern woman's various aesthetic values and aesthetic sense through observing expression aspects of gender images in the 1990s military fashion and analyzing their aesthetic characteristics and formative factors. Gender images in military fashion have expressed the masculine image of authoritative image and offensive image and offensive image, and the feminine image of conservative image and ostentatious image, sensual image. The authoritative image showed authority and dignity of military uniform by using the classic military uniform's image. This spoke for desire of women to rise their position. Heroism and androcentrism affected as its formation factor. The offensive image destroyed original dignified image of military uniform by that resistance to authoritative image and existing gender identity appeared as way-out form and deconstructive expression. Anti-establishment spirit, resistance to gender identity, and deconstructionism affected as its formation factor. The conservative image expressed military fashion only with slim and soft silhouette, curved line, color, and simple details by magnifying feminity. Fallen man's authority affected as its formation factor. The ostentatious image expressed military fashion with magnifying accessories such as gold button and belt by women who wanted to display ostentatiously their social position and charm. The aspiration for class of elite affected as its formation factor. The sensual image intended to show erotic voluptuous beauty of woman's body by indirect and direct body exposure. Narcissism, desire to show, and sexual amusement affected as its formation factor.

Dyeability and Functionality of Silk Fabrics treated with Persimmon Juice (감즙에 의한 견직물의 염색성과 기능성)

  • Huh, Man-Woo;Bae, Jung-Sook;An, Sun-Young
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
    • /
    • v.10 no.6
    • /
    • pp.1036-1044
    • /
    • 2008
  • This research from analyzing dyed silk fabrics treated with persimmon juice by padding concludes as follows : The add on is increased as the number of padding increase and the color of the dyed fabrics holds red-yellow colors which has low brightness and high chromatic colors. The fabrics dyed with persimmon juice have properties such as 2nd grade of light fastness, 4~5th grade of perspiration fastness and rubbing fastness, and 3~4th grade of washing fastness. The dyed fabrics exposed to UV light have deeper yellow-red color than things exposed to sunlight. The silk fabrics treated premordants have shown strong yellow colors, especially the fabrics added Fe mordant have shown greenish red-yellow colors. As the padding times of dyeing with persimmon juice are increased, strength and water-repellent property are enhanced along warp and weft direction respectively but anti-crease property is decreased. Also, the dyed fabrics have good antibacterial activity and deodorization.

Cognitive Ages and Body Images of Korean Adults in their 40s and 50s (40, 50대 성인의 인지연령과 신체이미지 평가)

  • Jang, Eun-Ju;Yoo, Hwa-Sook
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
    • /
    • v.13 no.5
    • /
    • pp.769-777
    • /
    • 2011
  • Anti-aging is one of the key words to have characterized Korean society, and Korean adults in their 40s and 50s are very interested in this word. In this study, their cognitive ages and body images which are expected to have been influenced by anti-ageing were determined and correlation between them was examined. A survey was conducted and 368 of 500 questionnaires were used in data analysis. Data were analyzed by descriptives, factor analysis, reliability analysis, correlation analysis, and multiple response analysis through SPSS 12.0. The results are as follows. First, the cognitive ages of Korean adults in their 40s and 50s showed to be 37.5 years old which are 9.1 years old younger than their average actual ages. Second, their attitudinal body images appeared to be composed of appearance orientation and appearance evaluation, and appearance orientation represented to be a little higher than appearance evaluation. In addition, it showed that the correlation between cognitive ages and the attitudinal body images was low and negative. Third, people in their 40s and 50s revealed to think good health and impression as ideal body images. It was found that they regarded a face as the most important body part for ideal body images and were sensitive of their weight. Forth, correlation between cognitive ages and variables of ideal body images was identified to be significant in 4 variables which are slender, shapely and slim figure and good body proportions. In conclusion, it was shown that Korean adults in their 40s and 50s recognized themselves to be 9.1 years old younger and, the younger they perceive themselves, the younger body images they want. Also, it could be confirmed that anti-ageing is a megatrend in Korean society.

Correlation between the Spirit of Times and Characteristics of Clothing -Similarity between Renaissance and Post-modern Period- (시대정신과 복식조형성과의 상관성(제1보) -르네상스와 포스틈던시대의 유사성을 중심으로-)

  • 박숙현
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
    • /
    • v.25 no.4
    • /
    • pp.673-684
    • /
    • 2001
  • The purpose of this study was to find out the correlation between the \"spirit of the times\" and the characteristics of each eras clothing in Renaissance and Post-modern Period. Theoretical studies about the \"spirit of times\" and the characteristics of clothing about each time were preceded. The results were as follows: Similarities of \"Spirit of times\" were 1) emphasis on humanity 2) anti-centralization 3) destruction of social status 4) deconstruction of christianity in Renaissance and modernism in Post-modern Period. Similarities of \"characteristics of clothing\" were 1) emphasis on erotic aspects of female body 2) emphasis of erotic aspects on clothing 3) tendency to revert to the old fashion 4) popularization of certain social groups fashion 5) tendency of deconstructionism in fashion 6) tendency of \"No match mix\" 7) androgynous style.f \"No match mix\" 7) androgynous style.ous style.

  • PDF

A Study on the Physical Properties and the Handle of Silver Combined Knit (은사 혼합 편성물의 물성 및 태 연구)

  • Kwon, Do-Yeon;Kwon, Young-Ah
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
    • /
    • v.11 no.4
    • /
    • pp.641-647
    • /
    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study was to evaluate the physical properties and handle of knitwears made with silver yarns. The four different knitted fabrics were made and compared: cotton(C), cotton/silver(CS), polyester(P), and polyester/silver(PS). If fabrics knitted with silver combined yarns, their electrical shield properties, UV-cut properties, anti-static properties, and air permeability were improved. As an additional effect this also improves the antibacterial properties of fabrics. It was found that overall physical properties and functional properties were improved by using silver yarn with cotton. The silver knitted fabric was found to be improved its softness and fullness hand for apparel.

A Study on the Influence that the Minimalism has on Modern Fashion (미니멀리즘이 현대패션에 미친 영향에 대한 연구)

  • 변지연;이순홍
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
    • /
    • v.4 no.3
    • /
    • pp.427-445
    • /
    • 1996
  • According as the fashion at the latter half part of the 20th century is diversified and made into high-class gradually, it is demanding the individuality of each one. Especially, since the beginning of 1980s, fashion came to represent the restoration mood in a modern style because of the popularization of post-modernism. And with this, it came to result in the reappearance of minimalism which was one of anti-culture in 1960s. In this study, this researcher grasped the appearance background, concept and structural concept of minimalism, and tried to study the influence that he minimalism had on fashion in the flow of fashion over the first half period of the 20th century. Minimalism is the fine art trend of American characteristic which quicked by the meeting of European culture and American culture, according as the new avant-grade art of Europe moved to America after World War II Minimalism which appeared, refusing the mechanisation, industrialization and mass production of America and the falsehood of consciousness and sensitivity under existing system remained obscure by the pop art which is the commercial fine art of same period, but it came to expand the domain of work possibility of modern fine art, and it became the basis of appearance of post-modernism. Minimalism has 4 kinds of structural features which are nonside nature, repetitiousness and environment nature with 3 dimensional feature which is issue nature. Minimalism is appearing in the exfcellent and future-oriented fashon of Andre Kureju t the time of 1960 well. Then science revolution and minimalism aroused the mini-revolution, and they made the compact radio in electric home appliances and the miniskirt in fashion appear. The features of minimal fashion as Retro '60' which appeared in the decedent mood with the 21st century just before on are as follows: First, the are the pursuit of concise plastic line. Second, it is the use of high tech material Third, the miniaturization in size amy be enumerated. Minimal fashion will appear s the positive confrontation from of mankind as the optimistic viewpoint about feature in the situation hat environment was destroyed and the resources were exhausted.

  • PDF

Study on Flow and Symbolism of Elvis Aaron Presley Fashion

  • Yum, Hae-Jung;Kim, Eun-Jun;Kim, Ji-Sun;Kim, Cho-Long
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
    • /
    • v.10 no.1
    • /
    • pp.67-79
    • /
    • 2010
  • Cultural sensation by appearance of Elvis Aaron Presley is thought to have been greatly influenced by spread of popular culture beginning to form with the development of mess media in USA that was changed rapidly after the war, changing aspect of popular music in U.S.A through the media development and teenager culture of USA that has rapidly emerged. Elvis intended to change into 'music to be seen' deviating from 'music to be simply listened to' with expressing the conversion of sexual consciousness, defiance to older generation and a sense of value on wealth, and the like, and also suggested a new culture and style to the young people at that time. Flow of Elvis's fashion may be categorized into the classifications such as the fashion in the period. First, Formative period(before 1954) distinguished by pimp look and sideburns with tough image and wild clothes. Second, Establishment period(1954-57) may be categorized into the hot rockabilly style which showed a glittering fashion by brilliant and colorful costumes, the cool rockabilly style which changed him to a fashionable star of modem image(1958-60). Third, re-heyday(after 1968) where a brilliant and bold decoration was displayed. In Elvis fashion, the masculine sensualism, defiance to main value and expression of luxury and consuming culture, etc. are included as a unique aesthetic consciousness. 'Expression of masculine sensualism' represented the sensualism through sexual objectification of men's body by men's sexual ostentation which was prohibited. 'Defiance to main value' means that attempts of non-mainstream image for social class are expressed with an exercise of power by young people through the public. Although the Elvis look has fanned an anti-culture, it was expressed and accepted as having a normally capitalistic appearance. In addition, it being thought of as the standard, symbolizing a success and a wealth through the presentation of image which accepted this material benefit, we may classify this into 'expression of luxury and consuming culture'.

Decoration Culture resident in Contemporary Japanese Fashion (현대 일본패션에 내재한 꾸밈 미학)

  • 채금석
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.54 no.3
    • /
    • pp.113-127
    • /
    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study is to search the spiritual root of decoration and anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion and find the aesthetic meanings of the decoration culture inside contemporary Japanese fashion. The contents of this study are 1. surveying the historical change about the aesthetic sense of Japan. decoration culture 2. deducing the distinctive aesthetic ideology from the decoration culture 3. finding esthetically the inside meaning of 1.2. in contemporary Japanese fashion. First, the origin of decoration culture was concerned with the belief in the life after death of the Buddhism culture to represent the noble society of the Heian(평안) period and the religion of paradise after the Middle Ages. Second. this decoration culture based on two aesthetic ideologies, beautiful(염) aesthetics and lofty(숭고) aesthetics. The beautiful aesthetics implies words, such as bewitchment, elegance, dignity and brilliance which stand for the sensual pleasure and the eroticism. The lofty aesthetics that was introduced by TakeTakasi(장고) during the Heian period, had the meaning of magnificence, greatness and dignity. This could be recognized as the Confucianism ideas. Third, as the beautiful aesthetics that was the representative aesthetic ideology of the decoration culture, it was related to splendid and decorative designs, and was recognized as the beauty of brilliance and coquetry. The beauty of brilliance, as a decorative element, appeared in patterns of the traditional costume and dyeing as well as the beauty of coquetry indicated that the women's fashion in Japan had soft, feminine, and cute images, called Hawaii, by using various decorations, such as feminine details, flower patterns. ruffles. ribbons and so on. TakeTakasi's lofty aesthetics applied the beauty of exaggeration to every art form. It has influenced the form exaggeration by overlapping in traditional costumes as well as the 1970s big look and layered look in Europe fashion. Issey Miyake and Takeda Kenzo introduced the decorative play, such as transformation and a distortion, which considered refinement, bluff, and oddity of the Japanese decoration art.

A Study on the Characteristics and Symbolism of Rock Music Star's Hairstyles (20세기 록뮤직스타 헤어스타일의 특징과 상징성에 관한 연구 -1950년대에서 1970년대를 중심으로-)

  • Shin, Hae-Jung;Kuh, Ja-Myung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
    • /
    • v.3 no.1 s.4
    • /
    • pp.1-12
    • /
    • 2005
  • The purpose of this thesis is to study the formative characteristics and symbolism shown in Rock stars' hairstyles through rock music to have influenced youth culture. There were a D.A style and a mop top style which included the youth characteristic to seek a new desire and value as the hairstyles of Rock & Roll stars, along with the characteristics of Rock & Roll music to represent the feeling of teenagers in 1950's at that time unlike the previous music due to high beats mixed with Rhythm & Blues (R & B) and Country music, and use of electronic guitars. We can see the desire for challenge and freedom against the then present regime, shouting love and peace, and resistance in the Psychedelic Rock music stars' hairstyle, which are untrimmed and disheveled, that is, natural. We can find explosiveness in Mohican and Spike style of Punk Rock stars playing fierce and aggressive music, along with words including indignation and assertion against the society's regime. The Artistic characteristic is implied in the following hairstyles: Glam Rock stars' hairstyle, a man's long-haired but a little long crew-cut style to reduce the bulky feeling and to give a bisexual, visible shock with hair dyed in orange to emphasize magnificence, and Punk Rock stars' hairstyle showing beauty in their own way with expression of anti-beauty to intentionally look ugly. Like this, the 20th Century's Rock music and youth culture are closely associated each other, and showed a new style, and played a leading role in street fashion, which became a momentum to much influence high fashion as a look of the 20th century modern fashion.

  • PDF

A Study of the Make-up Aesthetic Characteristics in Techno-Cyber Fashion (테크노-사이버 패션에서의 메이크업의 미적 특성)

  • Chung Kwi-Sook;Cho Kyoung-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.54 no.7
    • /
    • pp.63-78
    • /
    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study examines the characteristics of the Techno-Cyber fashion in modern fashion, and especially, how the make-up in the Techno-Cyber fashion is expressed artistically, and finally how much the make-up has its aesthetic value and significance. This study has its meaning in studying the relationship between the Techno-Cyber fashion and the make-up. Further more, the study has its significance in that it is possible to consider the interaction of the make-up by the fashion trend. The way of the study is to analyze its features that are shown in the documents of the inside and outside of the country. the study precedent, the technical journal, and the fashion picture. And also the study refers to the related contents in the searching for internet. The aesthetic characteristics of the expressed make-up is shown with the various aesthetic styles, as follows : First, the future-oriented characteristics is shown as the expression of the metallic make-up that emphasizes the glitter and glossy texture, and of the transparent make-up that emphasizes the simplicity of the body. Second, the surrealistic characteristics is expressed to the collage make-up that expresses the unexpected character with the introduction of the special materials and the position changing and the graphic make-up that destroys the standardized form. Third, the anti-cultural characteristics is expressed to the Cyber-Punk make-up that expresses the destructive and challenging image. Finally, the compromise characteristics is shown in the Ethno make-up combined the concept of the ethnic with the high technology and the Androgynous make-up which destroys the bounds of the sex.