• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.38 no.1
• /
• pp.19-32
• /
• 2014

The Taekwondo uniform has remained consistent since it was officially designed in a V-neck form in 1976. Taekwondo is a martial art that emphasizes social etiquette; therefore, it is necessary to dress in a uniform that reflects Korean traditions and ancient oriental philosophy. However, the current official uniform has limitations in endowing traditionality and many usability problems. Thus, recognizing the problems raised with the uniform, the Kukkiwon (World Taekwondo Headquarters) developed a new style official uniform in 2011. This study is to endow traditional meaning to a new style uniform and proposes some design modifications that can convey a more traditional adequacy. The development of the new official uniform began with a specific plan for change from the existing uniform, this study as subsequent work is significant in that its endowment of symbolism and modification proposal is for the actual execution and global dissemination of traditional Taekwondo culture. The results of this study are as follows. First, we can endow Korea's traditional historicity and symbolism to the new uniform in form and colors. All contents of the design (in which the front side is open, the top is adjusted rightward, the rear length is shorter than the front length, comfort provided by side vents, dual collars for children's uniforms, and a belt) are adapted from the Korean traditional costume. Consequently, historicity can be endowed to the uniform. It is also confirmed that the traditional oriental philosophy including heaven and earth (天地), Yin-Yang (陰陽), and Five Elements (五行) can be endowed in the use of colors. Second, in order to project deeper historicity and symbolism to the form of the new uniform, this study proposes design modifications based on the selection as an item of Simui (深衣), a type of traditional clothing that contains a high symbolism similar to the Taekwondo uniform. It proposes giving shape to the practice of manners, the righteous life, and the straightforward mind by modifying the design of the uniform in the fish belly part of the sleeves, collars, back stitches, and side seams.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.15 no.2 s.67
• /
• pp.221-231
• /
• 2007

In the modern society of the 21st century where the visuality is emphasized, the illustration which expresses one symbol by embodying it is getting more spotlight than the use of character. Specifically, the fashion illustration serves the role of image promotion in other fields, for such as book, magazine, etc, as well as the fashion, and is taking root in daily lives. In response to that, this study researched on the fusion style fashion and the fashion illustration by using the violet color. The violet color which symbolizes the mysticism is being applied to society and culture in various forms, and has been considered as a precious color that represents god since ancient time, and still possesses its mysterious image even in the modern times. Moreover, as the appearance of fusion styled clothes which consolidates the latest trend image of the west and east is combined with the mysterious image of the purple to express new cultural image beyond highlighting specific image element of a country, the study on the fashion illustration based on the clothes based on the purple and fusion style would be very interesting. This study tried to produce the work that aims at the practical study based on the purple & fusion style and the theoretical consideration of fashion illustration through the analysis and investigative study of preceding studies. The findings from the study is like this: First, the violet the color, which represents the mysticism, can be confirmed to be an sophisticated, elegant and attractive image color that leads the modern fashion. Second, the fusion style which is coming into the spotlight recently can be found to have a great visual effect of consolidating the image of the west and east through the mixture with the purple color. Third, it was confirmed in our production of works that the fashion illustration was expressing a mysterious and new fusion style by blending appropriately with the purple color.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.9 no.1
• /
• pp.13-22
• /
• 2007

As the world has been forming the global village and the cultures of each country are exchanged, the unique cultural specialty of each country high been merged with the generality in the world. The increasing interest on the oriental world and the globalization recently brings the fusion form of oriental and occidental cultures. In such a global trend, it is our challenge to find out the traditional beauty and the design factors of Korea for the new challenge and development of Korean fashion and to develop the most Korean and global design by interpreting them in a modem sense. It is the Era of the Three States when an of official hat among the personal ornaments of Korea was firstly described on the literature, including the literature of ancient China and Chronicles of Three States and Heritage of Three States of Korea. Those literatures clarified that the people in Goguryeo Baekje, Silla and Gaya decorated themselves with gold, silver and jade. Furthermore, since various kinds of ornaments have been excavated, they shown the development of metal craft in the Era of Three States. This study aim to exploit the design motives among the gold crown elements among the ornaments during the Era of Three States, interpret them in a modem expression, develop the textile design using the Adobe photoshop and suggest the application approaches by applying them to the clothing design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.14 no.2
• /
• pp.1-10
• /
• 2012

Clothing design is one of design products for human, the end user and corresponds to artifacts. Sometimes artifacts with one mono module exist, and so does artifacts assembled and combined with multi modules of same shape and size or various shapes and sizes and thus all design products can be understood by modularity concept. The purpose of this study was to make a new suggestion for the clothing design and production of high uniqueness and creativity by reviewing and synthesizing the foundation of clothing modularity concept as the original clothing design figures from the history have shown various modularity concept evolution from mono module to multi module stages. The methods of this study were to identify clothing modularity and analyze the type, evolving direction, and category of clothing modularity, and the value of clothing modularization design through comprehensive literature reviews on topic-related books and theses. The original clothing figures with Significance from the clothing history were analyzed in evolution sequence for application direction and value of clothing modularity in flat pattern. Clothing modularity in ancient clothing figures was classified as three types of the fixed, drapery, and straight lined in evolving direction from clothing of mono module to flat patterned clothing. The direction of clothing modularity was identified as mono- dual-triple-multi into another level of multi modularity after intentional devolution. The categorization of clothing modularity was identified in terms of clothing flat construction, clothing design construction, and clothing form modeling. The value of clothing modularization design using clothing modularity was identified as economical efficiency, convenience, promptitude, adaptability, functionality, and creativity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.53 no.4
• /
• pp.113-129
• /
• 2003

This study examined textiles used for the ancient costumes that are excavated from tombs of the Chosun dynasty, focusing especially on Po(overcoat). The result of the study is that silk occupies 79.8% of all the textiles used for Po, and cotton and linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo dynasty, are considerably decreased in Chosun dynasty. Danlyeong(단령) and Cheollik(첩리) had been made of various textile fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and blended fabric before Imjinwaeran(임진왜란). After the war, they were simplified in gauze weaved silk or satin weaved silk, And also patterned fabric were widely used for them than other Po. Simple fabrics like cotton, linen and plain weaved silk had been used for Aekjureum(액주름) and Jiklyeong(직령) before Imjinwaeran. After the war, Jiklyeong was used as underwears of Danlyeong, so it was made of high quality patterned silk. Dopo(도포) and Changuiryu(창의류) were mainly excavated from tombs after the war, high quality plain weaved silk are used than gorgeous Patterned silk. For the Dopho(답호) and Bansuui(반수의), before the war, they were made with various textiles such as plain weaved silk, twill weaved silk, satin weaved silk, cotton, linen, and blended fabric. But after the war plain weave was mainly used. In Jangui(장의), since it was mostly for women, many kinds of women's patterned silk were used in than any other Po. There were only a few excavation of Simui(심의) and most of them were made of ramie and were hemmed in black satin without pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.7
• /
• pp.41-54
• /
• 2004

This study purposed to apply function form content, the three concepts that have been discussed by many philosophers since ancient times, to fashion design. Specific research goals are : first, to define fashion design based on the three concepts : and second, to examine how each of the three concepts function-oriented, form-oriented and content-oriented design have been expressed in women's fashion in the $20^{th} century. For these purposes. the author considered Morris' semiotics, which is the theoretical background of the three concepts, reviewed previous researches in design area, and applied the findings to fashion design. According to the result of applying the threefold structure of semiotics. which is the theoretical background of the three concepts, the pragmatic dimension of fashion design comprehends all functional rules related to the use of dress such as body motion and protection, health and safety. air flow and durability, and its syntactic dimension comprehend all the formal elements of visual design such as the structure, shape, line, color and material of dress. The semantic dimension of fashion design includes the symbolic meanings of dress expressed by emotion, sentiment and images. The three dimensions exist interdependently with one another. According to the result of considering the characteristics of the three concepts in the scope of women's fashion in the $20^{th} century. function-oriented design is characterized by practicality and simplicity, and has been expressed as the fashion of functionalism in the 1920s, that of minimalism in the 1960s, and the basic style from 1970s to 1980s, 1990s and the present. Form-oriented design has pursued aestheticism, putting stress upon form, and has been expressed with organic shapes imitating patterns found in nature in the 1950s and with optical art fashion in the 1960s. Content-oriented design attaches importance to transmission of delicate meanings related to the mental world of human beings, and is represented with symbolic forms. Such a characteristic has been expressed in fashion in the early 20th century influenced by surrealism and, with various types of design breaking established forms as well as metaphors and humors that characterize design in the late 20th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.56 no.8 s.108
• /
• pp.74-82
• /
• 2006

In ancient China, Su(綬) was the ornament of the full dress. It had originated from tying the jade or another thing before Jen(秦:Qin) dynasty and it tied the imperial jade seal and the chop from Han dynasty. Su of Han dynasty was different in the inscape, colour, length and density according to the grade. And the shape was the straight line. But these phenomena were changed after Han dynasty. This study showed how it changed. To studying used the comparison method of literature records, paintings and archeological relics. It mostly studied imperial Su. Su of Han dynasty of the high grade was formed by Yeok, the circle type jade and Su(Su moaned whole Su, at the same time moaned the part of Su, too). Afterward, Yeok was changed into Small Su[小綬] and Su was changed into Big Su(大綬). Originally the circle type jade was connecting Yeok to Su, but it was changed into tying Small Su only. Su of Han dynasty used the four kinds of colour, but from Su(隋: Sui) dynasty used the six kinds of colour. Originally Su was interlacing, but it was changed into the silk fabric from Song[宋] dynasty. According to using silk fabric's Su, it was likely to disappear the system distinguishing the grade by length. And it kept the method of interlacing the reticulation in the low part of silk fabric's Su. So, after using silk fabric's Su, the system of the density was not about the main body but about the reticulation. Su was been used woven with supplementary golden wefts, too. The circle type jade was chiseled the dragon and cloud from Geum[金:Jin] dynasty. These not the pattern of silk fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.60 no.3
• /
• pp.26-43
• /
• 2010

The inflow of digital technology into the art, especially in the Fashion Illustration since 1990, makes the new aesthetics of the beginning of the 21 century which the Software aesthetics can be called. The meeting of technology and the art make us recall a great scientist and artist, Leonardo da Vinci in the Renaissance that the notion of the art and skill was unified, same as the ancient history. This study is purposed to expand the concept of the art for the broad exchange of the digital technology and art and for the extensive expression method of the modern fashion illustration. Having views on science theory of the beginning of the 20 century, Theory of Relativity which had given a lot of influence in the philosophy, the litterature and the art, as well as all the science, it makes a connection with the history of art in the beginning of the 20 century and the story of the digital art in the beginning of the 21 century. Firstly, the Fauvism and 2D is based on the expression of the glowing and bright color by the Principle of constancy of light velocity. Secondly, the Cubism and 3D is associated with the Special theory of relativity in the cyberspace which the space and the time are totally accorded. Thirdly, the Futurism and 4D is compared with the General theory of relativity which contains the material and the gravity. They are gradually evolved into the Interactive art and the Kinetic art by the digital technology in the profound cyberspace.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.23
• /
• pp.5-23
• /
• 1994

This research has been made through analyzing clothes of human dresses and ornaments appeared in the Buddhist pictures which were drawn at the times of the koryo Dynasty. Clothes of the Korea Dynasty could be analyzed as below : First, as for Turban (Doogun), common people used Ogun, Doogun, Byunsangmo and Chaek. For clothes, the style of the era of the ear of the Three-Dynasty. That is , they wore long shirts with narrow sleeves and narrow trousers and skirts. However, around the years of 1320, shirts had no more belt but became to show a kind of ribbon which is called as Gorum , and length of shirts was a bit shortened between hip and waist lines. Second, as for officials clothes, a kind of Rhangkan was used through the Dynasty but after the years of 1300, Wonryukwan was also used. In the clothes, Bangshimkikryung was used and the royals wore full-dress attire which looks like a long gown. Under the full-dress , we can see two different which seems to be a kind of present under-water. Third, in public clothes, same type of Danryung. Holl, belt and shoes were used throughout the Korea Dynasty. In addition Line (Yeon) was remarkably used skirt was dressed under Danryung by middle of the Dynasty the skirt was replaced with trousers. For Bokdoo, Jeonkak bokdoo was mostly used at the beginning of the Dynasty , but in the end of the Dynaty a lowr-flap bokdoo was in the main current. Meanwhile , we can see that the Korea Dynasty had its own in dependence in the clothes although the Dynasty was much affected by the Chines Song Dynasty System. We can hardly find a Mogrian cloethes style in the Korea-Dynasty clothes. Fourth, in Queen's clothes, banbi and pyo were used and sleeves were decorated with birds feather throughout the Dynasty. Lastly , famer's clothes are quite similar to those of the Chinese Song and won Dynasties and a decorative line was used in official clothes. These facts make us have a presumption of our Dongii culture might be conveyed to the Chinese in the ancient times but much more research is needed to clarify.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.53 no.3
• /
• pp.51-61
• /
• 2003

1. This study is to veri(y the characteristics of gauze fabrics focused on the them found at Sukga Pagoda. The remains researched are those of the Unified Shilla Dynasty around 8∼10 century. The found textile remains seem to be used as rugs or to be used for filling in spaces, wrapping silver reliquaries, equipments preserving relics of the Buddha, a gold-plated outermost reliquary, and so on. Since other remains found inside the Sukga Pagoda are national treasures, the textile remains can be considered as the fabrics of the highest quality. 2. Seven gauze fabrics, four non-designed gauzes and three designed gauzes, are found. They are all four-end complex gauze, weaved with the complex gauze technique. Two designed gauzes out of three designed gauzes are weaved in pattern by the clamp-resist dyeing technique and one is weaved in pattern by giving some changes in weaving. 3. In addition to the characteristics peculiar to gauze fabrics, such as thinness, fineness, and sparseness, another characteristic is found. That is, the difference in thickness between wefts and warps is over two times on the average in all of the seven gauze fabrics. Some of the gauze fabrics look like laces because of the huge difference in their thickness. 4. This research verified that with their transparency, are such materials that their beauty can easily be realized without adding various colors or patterns on the fabric by painting, embroidery, stitching old foil, or compound weaving technique.